Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Also, the OEMs needed to be replaced at 37,000 miles. What pieces of crap!
:mad:
Say, "Thank you big brother government for looking out for stupid people who can't be bothered to check the tire pressure at every fill up."
I just came back from a trip outside of US, and the things I saw, would make "ambulance chaser" lawyers jump in joy. Boardwalks with no handrails, balconies with low barriers, no warning signs on wet floors...
It was refreshing to see a country where the government does not mandate that stupid people be preserved. I say, let natural selection take its toll...
P.S. No, I was not in a developing country. It is a very well developed European Democratic Monarchy (has a Queen, but not UK)
I got an '07 back in April or so and within a month the tire pressure warning light came on. I checked and re-checked with my gauge and ones at my trusty local shop and the pressure was just as I try to keep it: the recommended 30 psi.
I tried treating it like a computer and re-booted it: I put extra air in it and then let a lot out before pumping it back up to 30 psi. No luck.
So, though I'm going to be doing all my own maintenance, I took the dealer up on that offer of the first oil change for free at 5,000 miles and asked them to make the warning light go out, too.
I got a call a couple of hours later and they said the car was ready and that the tires just needed some more air. Hmmmm. I asked if the light was out. No, came the reply, but after you drive it a mile it will go out. I asked that they please drive it a mile before I come to pick it up because my wife and I scheduled our day around getting this done -- done right.
Later, he called again. The light is out. He said the tires need 32 psi. I said the manual says 30 psi. He said it's really supposed to be 32 psi. Honda is indeed a precision instrument.
I picked it up.
The next morning, when the tires were plenty cool in the driveway, I checked the pressure. My first concern is that two of the valve stem caps were so loose they were wobbly: probably a single turn of the wrist with the cap between thumb and forefinger, when it takes at least three such turns.
But more disturbing was this, if I recall correctly: two tires were at 33 psi, one at 32 psi and one at 37 psi. That is not a typo.
Some days later the service manager called with one of those pro forma follows up to ask if everything went OK, in the style that says he expects to hear just that. I told him what I just wrote here. He didn't say a lot.
I'm sure there are plenty of good mechanics at the dealership. But there are plenty willing to kiss off an assignment. Quality private shops can't indulge in that. They do good work or they lose.
(By the way blueiedgod....you might remember me as one of those guys battling Honda over my '05 pulling to the right a couple of years ago. I won BBB arbitration and, at my request, instead of cash they gave me a great deal on an '07. I noticed somewhere that they re-designed the front end on the '07 to eliminate some of that same torque steer they said didn't exist.)
If your Honda CR-V is 2 wheel drive, then yes, you can get away with just the two new tires. (This may be the case since your front tires wore down so fast.) However, if your CR-V is all-wheel drive (AWD), then sadly, you will have to replace all 4.
With AWD, all the tires have to match and be of the same tread depth (or very close). Otherwise you'll cause a lot of damage.
Also, I don't recommend slashing the tires, especially if you have AWD. I had a 2005 CR-V with AWD and it handled the snow and ice just fine.
As blueiegod would say- read the manual.
Also, the other pair will wear out pretty soon too - common malady of the OEM tires (someone here said that these are made to different specs compared to the same tire available aftermarket to give you that nice, soft new-car feel). My original BF Goodrich Traction T/As lasted only 26K (the same tire is warranted to 60K aftermarket).
Then, what's your family's safety worth? I never cheap out on tires and brakes. Slap 4 new Michelin Hydroedge or GY Trippletred (the tires of choice for the crowd here, judging from previous posts) and you'll be set for the next 3-4 years and 70-80K miles.
And it never hurts to do some research - read through the "Tires, tires, tires" discussion; go to tirerack.com and read the ratings and comments.
Good Luck!
I live in South Dakota so I know all about the winter driving hazards. Firstly, the CR-V is AWESOME on ice and snow, even with the crappy OEM tires. However, since you are going to have to buy new tires anyway, get good all season ones. Tires, not stability control, not antilock, not 4WD, not EBD, not traction control, are your best ally in bad weather. Those systems only work as well as the tires. We just put Goodyear TripleTreds on our '05 and while we haven't got to test them out in the bad weather (thank goodness), I heard nothing but good things about them. There are several other brands people have recommended as well; you just have to read this thread a bit. (All this reading sucks, huh?) And for heaven's sake don't slash your tires! All you'll do is shorten their lifespan. If you buy good all season tires you'll be fine.
:shades:
You should type faster though :P
I have Michelin Hydroedges on my 05 CR-V and my 01 Galant.
Good advice!
:P
I am giving Yokohama another chance. I had Yokohama Avid T4 on Gen 1, and they were perfect in wet/dry. But, the "V-groove" would fill up with snow and they would get really slippery in snow. Touring's don't have the "V-groove," so, I will see how they perform.
After the switchover my cost was $204 for 4 Yokohama Avid Touring 225/60-16's shipped!!!
But regarding how noisy the Hydroedges are, I honestly can't tell. It does not bother me, a tire has to be very noisy to start bugging me. As I mentioned before, feel free to stop by at work and take a spin, just let me know when, because my wife is the one that drives the CR-V.
As far as the spare - yes, I replaced that one too, although I later regretted it. Not much use of doing it unless you plan to include it in the rotation. But with the Hydroedges being directional I don't see it. Well, they gave me $40.00 for it at the Stillwater Discount Tire, so it was not all that bad.
Michelin has rebates from time to time, so if you're not in a rush you may want to wait a little. Discount Tire also has a rebate if you charge it to one of their cards, so both time I ended with about $75.00 in rebates. Nothing at the moment though.
How exactly do you propose to disable the AWD? The CR-V has a full time system; there is no "High/Low" or "engage AWD" switch.
However, if you're one of those people who does the 5-tire rotation- keeping all your tires in use (including the spare), then yes, you have to switch out the spare tire with the new type of tire as well.
Check you e-mail.
Good Luck!
The TPMS came on after a while and I thought something was wrong.I put
pressure back to 30 psi and the problem went away.It is different from my
Toyota which I can run at low pressure.
Ex owner upgraded with OEM Alum wheels+ Kuhmo tires and also gave me the original 4 steel wheels with the original Dunlop GranTrak tires.
My CRV had the "pull to he right" issue, although the dealer had realigned the front wheels per Honda bulletin ( car still under warranty).
For this winter, I decided to put on the steel wheels...and spare the alum wheels from heavy salted Michigan roads.
Went to Bell Tires, put them on, and stored the Alum wheels in the basement.
SURPRISE! NO MORE PULL TO THE RIGHT . Car runs straight as a bullet, I can't believe I can take my hands off the steering.
Could anyone explain why??? I wish this would be the feeling with the Alum wheels too!!
Dunlop tires are on the steel wheels, as they've been factory installed. Kuhmo tires are on the aluminum wheels as they were purchased and installed after that. Car PTR with the alum wheels and Kuhmo tires. Not we the recentlly installed steel wheels and Dunlops.
I am glad it's not the frame or other mechanicals involving the chassis of the car. I'll put the alum wheels back next spring and rotate them too. i'll let you know then )
Thanks for the advice. Makes sense.
How did you elimate PTR on your CRV? By switcing tires or by replacing them?
Dan
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ef026c3/5676
Looks like it's a combination of both: non directional tires and torque steer.
Thanks for your input!
Dan
Thanks Dan
The above was my post on Nov 29th............since I snugged up the tire pressure monitors/valve stems on the rims, I haven't had a false alarm as to low air pressure in three weeks. FYI............
Now I have something to try thanks to your post!
Happy trails!
My question is, has anyone else had this problem? We don't try to go off-roading in this vehicle. I know the all-wheel drive isn't made for that kind of driving, so I haven't abused the wheels. Just city streets and highway driving.
The vehicle only has a litle over 60K miles on it, so this seems a little strange. The cracks appear where the spokes weld to the rim. I've kept both wheels to show to my Honda dealer where I do all my service.
Let me know if anyone else has experiened this problem, how it was resolved ( if at all), and I'll post my results after I've had a chance to visit the dealer.
Garry in Vegas
I have a 97 Honda CRV . I was wondering whether it is ok to have two different pair of tires in the front and back ie front ones have a different brand as opposed to the back. The tire that I am replacing is the back one and the front ones were replaced a year back. I am planningon replacing the back ones with another brand of tires with the same specification as the front ones does ie P205/70R15.
I have a 97 Honda CRV . I was wondering whether it is ok to have two different pair of tires in the front and back ie front ones have a different brand as opposed to the back. The tire that I am replacing is the back one and the front ones were replaced a year back. I am planningon replacing the back ones with another brand of tires with the same specification as the front ones does ie P205/70R15.
If you have AWD version of the CR-V, it is recommended that you replace all 4 at the same time. If you are just replacing 2, then the new ones go in the front.
The AWD system is activated by the rotational different between the axles. By having older, worn tires in the rear you minimize the chances of the AWD system being on all the time and overheating.
James from the mountains of So. Cal