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I do need to replace all 4 tires in our family's blue 2004 Accord sedan 4-cyl. Maybe I should look into these for that car if they are the cheapest.
They are not the cheapest. You can get Chinese or Korean made tires for even less, but you may as well up yor life insurance policy.
Yokohamas are US made.
The field engineer says he feels it and it is probably coming from the rear end. We'll see!
AND he also said that the OEM tires - Dueler HT, and all tires today are made of a rayon based material and therefore when the vehicle sits overnight there will be flat spots on the tires that take 10-15 mins of driving to alleviate. I have noticed this with the Dueler tires but not on the Michelin's on my 2nd vehicle!! I think this is the case for the Bridgestone's but all other tires - - I doubt it.
Any one else had this problem?
If you have anywhere over 15,000 miles on the stock tires, they are probably worn out. Check the thread depth.
I just find the recommended 26psi somewhat low, the tires always look like under-inflated.
What is the common practice of CRV owners in this respect?
Cheers
ps: the replacement tires are BF Goodrich Touring Premier T/A, rated at 70k miles, just over $400 at Costco. I chose to stick with BF Goodrich instead of Michelin, with the $70 off offer, since I hear about noise level with the Michelin.
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I understand that the more pressure, the less contact but I guess that's how some owners had their OEM tires worn out at 25k miles, because lower pressure means more contacts, more contacts means more wear.
I also think that car mfrs would suggest a lower range psi for comfort over tire wear.
Personally (and this is not an expert recommendation), I almost always like my tires inflated just a little more than recommendations. I find it improves the handling, with minimal ride comfort issues, and none of the loss of control issues that you get with hyper-inflation.
Also... extreme under- or over-inflation can wear a tire out prematurely... just in different places.
My old CR-V was listed at 29 psi by Honda... I regularly ran 32 psi and that was perfect for me....
But, don't ever run lower psi than recommended.. An under-inflated tire can build up heat very quickly...
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Just an observation on the 29psi on older CRV, that to me doesn't make sense since we know all that cars grow bigger, wider and heavier with newer models. An 02 model just has to be heavier and yet the psi recommended by Honda is 26psi !
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edel
Size: 225/65R17
Tirerack.com Price $107
To maintain the correct speedometer/odometer reading you should have went with 225/60-15 size tires.
As far as I know, there are no provisions to adjust the speedometer/odometer in the CR-V.
Take a reading with GPS and mark appropriately on the cluster to avoid tickets. You may have disclose inaccurate mileage when it comes to selling the car, otherwise you may find your self facing a judge.
After putting my snow tires on new rims with no sensors (replacing originals with sensors ) it took quite a few miles or days for the TPMS light to come on. So I ordered sensors from a local tire shop and they came in today and they installed them this afternoon . They removed the wheels from the vehicle but didn't even have to remove the tires off the rims or re-balance. They just let the air out and opened the tire by the valve to replace them. When done I asked how they go about matching the sensors to the computer and they said they match automatically sometimes. TPMS light is out and VSA switch works for on or off.
They said if the TPMS light does come on after some driving they will look after it then but said they will need me to bring in my operators manual because they are all different to set.
I explained that I do not believe it gives that information in the owners manual or at least I could not find it .
What say ye all ? ?
Does the manual give instructions or is there somewhere on line to find it ?
Does it have to be done by some equipment that only a Honda dealership has if they don't have the right equipment ? ?
I may be wrong but I think it is reading the settings from the previous original tires and will eventually kick out of that mode and put the TPMS light back on.
2007 CR-V AWD
Deflated all tires to ~30lbs cold. Car has been driven for several days now and 150 miles and the light did not go off.
Is there anyway to reset the system without going to the dealer? Thanks.
I thought if the "TPMS" light is on steady that other safety systems (traction control?) will not function? This is what concerns me, not the dash light. If I am wrong, please let me know so I do not waste an early morning at the dealer.
1) Bridgestone Dueler Alenza for $720 (Discount Tire)
2) BFGoodrich LongTrail T/A Tour for $630 (Sam's)
3) Goodyear Assurance ComforTred Touring for $700 (Sam's)
These include installation, road hazard warranty...etc. This is my wife and kids car so safety, comfort, and longevity are top on the list. Your help/advice/experience would be really appreciated. Any experience with mpg?
Now if YOU are willing to take the risk, then just take the tire and wheel off the vehicle and I'm sure any tire shop would be happy to sell you a tire - but then YOU would be responsible if something bad happens.
We don't run any of these tires at 26psi. The handling, braking, everything is just awful. The cars don't even go downhill well! We run 32 to 34 psi and find that range provides the best handling. We don't deflate tires for comfort and I'm suspicious that that is what Honda has done.
For what it's worth. I have to make sure everytime the service department doesn't deflate the tires. Most of them think I'm crazy but hey, over the last six years, I haven't had a Les Schwab to run by and get them re-inflated. One place we took the cars to, no matter what you told them, they let air out of the tires. It was automatic to run by Schwab to get them back up to where they handled worth a darn. You might think a tire company who puts thousands of tires on these cars might know a thing or two?
The auto manufacturer has lots of engineers and they talk to the tire engineers. The psi number on the placard on the door pillar isn't pulled out of thin air. Everything is a compromise but ignoring the number on the placard generally means you aren't getting the performance out of the vehicle that you paid for. (TireRack).
But, as Steve noted.... the max PSI has nothing to do with what psi you should be running..
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Second, just as steve said, this has been carefully considered by the vehicle engineers. It's not something just pulled out of the air, so characterizing it as unsafe is just plain wrong. Don't believe me? Calculate the load carrying capacity of the tire. It's way over the vehicle capacity (GAWR).
If you don't like the feel, that's a whole different issue. I prefer a crisper feel, but that's just me. Some folks prefer a soft ride, but that's them.
" All of them take tires that are max psi at 44."
So I know that it's the max psi and you don't run a tire at that and that load will affect what psi you run at because I've hauled horse trailers with a truck and dealt with tongue weight and all that. So please, I DO GET what max psi is.
I also said:
"We don't run any of these tires at 26psi. The handling, braking, everything is just awful. The cars don't even go downhill well! We run 32 to 34 psi and find that range provides the best handling."
If the engineers are so good at what they do, and if they are not calling for 26psi on a 44psi tire just to make the ride softer, then why the above? We have had one CRV for nine years, another for six, and the Accord for five. Every single time the psi is run down to 26, they become slugs on the road, cornering is not safe, IMHO, and braking is better too, at a higher psi, believe it or not.
But, if you believe the 26psi is not intended to make the car ride softer, because, let's face it, ride has never been the up side of a CRV, then I'd like to know what running a tire at half psi does to the stability of the sidewall, in a car where I'd think that would be a crucial issue. They all handle like an SUV, they are never going to be like a Civic or the Accord and we drive accordingly. But of the three drivers in the household, everyone has the same issue with the low psi.
Yes, I know this is a three-year old thread. But if I'd trying to start a new thread on it, it would have been removed and I'd have been sent here anyway.
Please, if anyone knows, why/can/should you run a tire at literally half the max psi?
Why would people with years of experience across the spectrum of cars and servicing tires recommend 32-36?
I really do want to know because I like to learn and don't assume maufacturers always do what's best.
Thanks.
Thanks in advance.
I took it into the dealer we bought it from, wasted an hour and a half and they were unable to fix the problem. Seemed clueless. I took it to another dealer, and they fixed the problem but I had to pay for it. NOw, my husband has put the regular tires back on ( that came with the car) and a week later, the TPMS light is on..Tire pressure is okay. I called the GOOD dealer to make an appointment and was told this appointment would not be covered under warranty because it came from my husband changing the tires.
DOES THIS MAKE SENSE? Do I have to pay $100 twice a year to get the sensor light fixed? ( Although maybe it was fifty something dollars.. I think they ended up lowering the initial quote )
You can do this yourself (if you have the right tools) or you can have the dealer do this. If you take it to the dealer, it is NOT covered by warranty because the vehicle was delivered to you fully functional and the change to make it non-functional was neither caused by the dealer nor by the vehicle manufacturer.
Now I am wondering where to look for instructions to program it. And do you know what tools would be needed? Maybe my husband can do it..
I have been studying youtube videos about TPMS reset. Is there just one tool that is needed, in addition to the laptop computer? I found the ATEQ Quickset TPMS reset tool and the Wheelrite Tech 400.. Neither was specific to the 2013 CRV, but maybe they would work. Then I found some other tools on amazon with different brand names.
Am I on the right track? Is there one that you recommend?
Thank you very much for pointing me in the right direction. ( My husband was going about this insisting that it must be covered by warranty).
I'm looking at Michelin Defenders now. Has anyone done this swap?