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Caravan/Town & Country Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • jeffnksjeffnks Member Posts: 1
    Thank you so very much for your post!!! I had the same problem today with my 2005 Town and Country. I just went out after reading your thought and IT WORKED! You saved me a trip to the dealership. Thank you again!

    Jeff
  • mmg2mmg2 Member Posts: 1
    I just wanted to thank you for your posting about the IOD fuse and the door locks. Ours quit working yesterday. After searching on the internet, I found your post. We did what you said, took out the fuse for 30 seconds, put it back in and the locks worked!!!!!!! Thank you very, very much. I hope your post will help others too.
  • romottromott Member Posts: 4
    Unfortunately, this appears to be a temporary fix. My locks quit working again in 3-4 days. Removing the fuse fixes it only temporarily. I went to my dealer, and he admitted that they see this problem daily after I pointed out that there were a number of folks on the internet that said they had this problem and therefore, it was a common problem that Chrysler needs to fix. Apparently the programming makes a bad assumption about every day, long term operation of the locks and the programming that is in the BCM to monitor the health of the locks.

    He said that Chrysler says it is not a safety or emissions problem, so they won't fix it for free. I got the car back saying they had flashed the BCM meaning they had reprogrammed it, but there was no charge! Hooray, but wait, its not fixed! The locks quit working yesterday!!!! You'd think that after paying megabucks for a very well equipped car, at least the door locks would work as advertised.
  • debspalmtreedebspalmtree Member Posts: 1
    Thank you so much for posting this. I have had problems with my locks not working for 3 months. My brother tried replacing some of the other fuses, as a matter of fact that 10d is probably the only one we didn't try. I thought I was going to have to take it to the dealer and pay thier big price to fix it. I decided to try one more time to see if i could find something on the net, and I found you post and it worked. thanks again. :)
  • julesbjulesb Member Posts: 1
    I have 2001 Dodge Caravan and for the past year I have been having headlight problems; when I turn the engine on, the daytime running lights; the left lights is on, when I turn the lights on the left on one goes out and the right one comes on, when I turn on the high beams...they both work. My local Dodge dealer said they will look at it but it sounds like an electrical problem and could cost $1000. I took out the headlights myself and cleaned them and put in new bulbs and I still have the problem...both turn signals work and so do both side reflector lights. Anyone have any ideas? Desperate Julesb :cry:
  • 98tandc98tandc Member Posts: 1
    Several months ago, my 98 T&C began to start, run for about 5 seconds, then die. After about five attempts at this, it would no longer even turn over. At first, after about an hour, it would start and run. I thought it had something to do with the remote door opener, so I stopped using it. The problem happened more and more often, and the wait time before it would start became longer and longer. Recently, I took the van to the local dealer so they could figure out what was causing the problem. They did some "recall" repairs, but they could not figure out the problem with the security system. They told me they thought it was in a wiring harness, but they were not sure. They were willing to see if replacing the wiring harness would fix the problem, at a cost of at least $1,500. Needless to say, I was not willing to participate in a $1,500 experiment. I got the van back from the dealer, and it started for about a week. Then it did its old trick again. This time, after it sat behind my house for over three weeks, it still would not even turn over.
    Last Saturday, I removed the instrument cluster. To remove the cluster, I had to remove a connector from a socket more or less in the middle of a printed circuit board (PCB) on the back of the instrument cluster. Inside this socket there were pins (at least nine). The solder joints that connect the pins to the PCB circuitry are on the "back" of the PCB. With the naked eye, I could not see any problems with the solder joints around the pins. However, using a strong magnifying glass, I could see small cracks in the solder around the pins. I re-soldered all the joints around the pins, and put the cluster back in the van. The van has been starting flawlessly ever since!!!

    THANK YOU to the folks who posted the information about this fix. I have no idea how somebody found the problem with the solder joints on the PCB, but I am certainly glad they did.
  • electrcianelectrcian Member Posts: 2
    I installed a used BCM (exact same P/N) in my T&C and the car would run for a few seconds and then stop. I tried is a few times and it kept doing the same thing. I finally decided to put the old BCM in and the car did the same thng. After 3 attempts at starting and having it die, the car finally would not even turn over. It currently is dead. I need help figureing out what to do.
  • dlqchrisdlqchris Member Posts: 3
    Same here, 2001 GC with no intermittant headlights (low beam on one side, high beam on the other side). I drove from Utah to Washington state for Thanksgiving with a piece of cardboard propped in the signal lever to keep the high beams on so that it would appear as though I had two operational headlights and hopefully avoid a ticket. This morning the headlights are not operating at all, no low beam or high beam. And I am not encouraged at what I am reading.....$1000 or more to fix it enough to get back to Utah and trade it in? Dont think so...I will drive in the daytime.
  • annarbor2annarbor2 Member Posts: 1
    #1 At 8K miles, took to dealer for a screech when turning on ignition and burning smell. No problem found. Dealer "looked under the hood."
    #2-3 At 15K miles, took in on three consecutive days for great deal of trouble starting vehicle. After visit 3, they said there was a "bad cell" in the battery. Car failed to start when I picked it up.
    #4 Left it there from visit #3. No problem found. Dealer told me that the problem was that I didn't know how to start my vehicle.
    #5: Engine malfunction light comes on and starts flashing while on the highway. Car sputters and shakes. Towed to dealer who said "Cam and Crank sensor."
    #5 A week later: same light comes on; car sputters. Drive to dealer. "Evap filter. Changed EGR valve."
    #7 A week later, en route home from Thanksgiving, same light comes on on highway; car sputtering. Towed to dealer 5.5 hours from my home. Rent a car to get home. Call "Customer Service" who declines my request for a buyback, rental reimbursement or to get my vehicle back to me. I pay someone $1000 to drive the rental car back 5.5 hours and bring my car home. Dealer said "Crank and Cam shaft."
    #8 The guy I hire gets 100 miles into the return trip and the same light comes on and car sputters. He drives it to a dealer, now 3.5 hours from home. The car has now been there 5 days and they have no clue what's wrong with it. At this point, Customer Service opens a file and refers me to a case manager.

    Case manager does nothing. Get a different one who tells me she will then she won't give me an equivalent rental car and cover my expenses. The dealer has no idea what's wrong with it. He called Chrysler, who told him to check the transmission--which he had already done. No clue how long the dealer will keep looking before calling the "field advisor." After pressing the Case Manager, she decided to escalate the matter to the Regional Manager who has authorization for a buyback. But my state, Michigan, very unhelpfully gutted most of the lemon law, suggesting that the best I'd do on a buyback offer isn't very good. And mean while, my car remains 3.5 hours away and I have a tiny, inadequate Neon --a loaner from the dealer so my paid driver could get home. If anyone has any ideas, I'd really appreciate it.
  • deppie78deppie78 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 98 dodge caravan when i'm driving the battery light comes on and all my lights start flickering. just started doing this yesterday, today when i shut it off a buzzin sound came from underneath the dash. was wondering if anyone has any ideas as to what this could be?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    have you tried to start it again? It sounds to me like your alternator is either under-charging or not charging. The battery light usually indicates low voltage, assuming it is working properly. If the flickering and battery light came on prior to you actually being able to restart the van, then there might be an electrical problem rather than a low battery. The "buzzing" to which you refer is often a relay trying to engage, but having insufficient power to do so.

    Be careful with this one; if it is an alternator, the van could strand you alongside the road somewhere when the last of its juice is squeezed out.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • deppie78deppie78 Member Posts: 3
    thanks i think it is a relay my husband came home and heard the buzzing and wiggled something and it quit and started right up. go figure now he thinks i'm nuts cause it hasn't done it since
  • alecavalieralecavalier Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem. Did you find out what was the cause of this problem?

    Al
    ssatl@videotron.ca
  • dlqchrisdlqchris Member Posts: 3
    It is either the IOD or the BCM modules, both are expensive fixes. I ended up hardwiring the headlights with an inline fuse to the parking lights and it works great. Assuming the parking lights dont go next. After I made the modification, the blower fan for the heat and A/C only works on high. Jeez, always something.
  • tcproblemstcproblems Member Posts: 2
    The problem with my electrical system and headlights flashing on and off was
    the fuse box underneath the hood. The wiring harness that plugs into the
    fuse box was extremely corroded and needed to be cleaned. I had a local
    mechanic find it out and fix it ($130 well spent) He said he cleaned the
    connections and put dye electric grease on it to prevent corrosion again. I
    think he had to take off the fuse bux to get at the wiring harness... I hope
    this solves your problem also.


    Matt
  • deppie78deppie78 Member Posts: 3
    check engine light was on said something about a short in the torque converter sensor or something but we cleaned the battery post and cables and so far so good check engine light is still on though.
  • msaj2umsaj2u Member Posts: 3
    I bought this car 10 days ago and three days already it has not started. The first time after I was jump started I took it to the dealer and they said the battery tested fine. The second time, 6 days later they said the battery cable was loose and they tightened it. Today, 3 days later, it didn't start again. It always starts with a jump start but what could be causing it? Has anyone had this problem? Unfortunately the dealer I bought it from is over an hour from me. I took it to a local dealer and they said that until it does it again, they cannot diagnosis it since it seems to be running fine. Something is obviously causing this and it is so frustrating!! I will be taking it back to the dealership tomorrow to leave it with them so they can periodically check it until it does it again.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    I had some intermittent problems with one of my vehicles a while back, and it turned out to be a slightly loose connection between the bracket and engine on which the negative battery cable attached to the system. It was just a little loose, but it caused the car to either start fine, or give me nothing. The post where the cable attached to that bracket was just fine.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • rival13rival13 Member Posts: 3
    This worked! The light sequence was slightly different than the instructions. After initiating the test, the sequence ran a few minutes, after which the rear wiper button and the rear intermittent button flashed alternately. When it was clear that this would continue indefinitely, I pushed the rear wiper button when it flashed, and the last lights went out. Thanks for providing the fix, and sorry it took me so long to get back to you. This is what the dealership wanted $50 to fix.
  • fergiedonfergiedon Member Posts: 1
    Ours wouldn't start...like the ones here, and I think we figured ours out. We took the remote door unlockers and put them in a drawer. We use the key only...so far no problems...must be a problem with the security system.
  • kcoreykcorey Member Posts: 130
    I'll bet the battery in the remotes need to be replaced.
  • reesepcreesepc Member Posts: 1
    Our '97 T&C LXi is blowing the #4 circuit 15amp fuse under the dash. This circuit runs the left tail light/turn signal and the dash lights. When I checked the main circuit that feeds this fuse and replaced (a seemingly good) fuse, it worked again. Thought it was fixed then for no apparent reason just blew again. Now it will only come back on if I pull the main fuse and replace it (not with a new one, just put it back in) but it doesn't last more than about 5 starts. The 40A fuse under the hood is not faulty (burnt at least) but the circuits it feeds are not working properly because the #1 and #6 it also feeds are not working but those fuses aren't blowing.

    We live outside of town and our closest repair place won't even look at it since we're having to mess with the main fuse box. In the winter we need the lights 24hours/day here in interior AK so I don't really like having to turn on the interior lights to see how fast I'm going! Any help is greatly appreciated! [not sure if this is relevant but it has 159K on it]
  • jh72jh72 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 town and country touring and we've had it in three times because it won't start. They're claiming it's because of the way we use it. .. we mostly use it for short trips. They say the battery doesn't have enough time to recharge itself and with 30 computers onboard they all drain the power. They said they'll put in a battery charger (one you plug into an electrical outlet), but I'm wondering if they're just feeding me BS since they can't find the real problem. They claim everything in the electrical system checks out fine. Anyone hear of cars dying from lack of use . . seems like a really bad design flaw if it is?
  • myronlhmyronlh Member Posts: 2
    Did you ever find the problem with this? My daughter has an '05 T&C with the same loss of power to the switched power outlets. The owners manual says that they are controled by an automatic circuit breaker that resets once the overload is removed for the power outlets. The "automatic reset" doesn't happen but I can not find the breaker to troubleshoot it furthur. Any suggestions or help would be appreciated, thanks
  • msaj2umsaj2u Member Posts: 3
    After 4 times of my car not starting in two weeks I finally had my car towed to the dealership. They had looked at twice previously but since I had jump-started it and it was working the battery tested fine. This last time, since it was sent there not working they charged the battery up and then retested it. Then, they found a bad cell and replaced the battery. The bad cell did not come up in previous tests. Since I got the new battery, I have not had any problems. Hopefully a new battery is all you need.
  • myronlhmyronlh Member Posts: 2
    I found the problem, it was a blown f5 = RDO/IP Ignition fuse, 20 amp yellow. The lower power outlet on the dash (won't work as a cigarette lighter) is the one that is not switched off when the ignition switch is turned off and is controlled by an automatic reset circuit breaker.
  • jromajroma Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem with my 2005 T&C. Did you find any answers?
  • gviethgvieth Member Posts: 2
    I have the exact same problem as DVD4 (same year, model etc.also)
    Was there ever a fix?

    Thanks,

    GVieth
  • dvd4dvd4 Member Posts: 2
    I finally took it to the shop and had them do a pin check on the Engine Control Module (ECM) and found it to be bad. I order a new ECM. I also replaced the electronic distributor as recommended by a Chrysler Technical Service Bulletin (TSB). The TSB stated that often the cause of the ECM going bad is a result of a faulty electronic distributor. I ordered both parts from www.rockauto.com that was quite a bit cheaper than Chrysler. I had the shop install it and all has been fine sine around the beginning of June. I paid $250 for the ECM and then got $75 back from RockAuto when I mailed back the faulty ECM.
  • glenntuiaglenntuia Member Posts: 2
    thank you for the quick fix information on blinking lights on a/c panel on 98 town and country van. i did exactly as you described on how to do the fix...step by step...start car...turn on blower fully...open up all vents...knob mode to the left...both heat/cold levers to the left...depress simultaneously washer and rear wiper buttons until all lights lit up...release all buttons and watch far left two lights alternate blinking mode until top light is the only one blinking. finally, depress that light and release. thanks again. the mechanic wanted at least 70 dollars.
  • shakes67shakes67 Member Posts: 9
    I had a 06 touring car wasn't starting stalled they changed eveything I went to arbitration for a new car. They blamed the autostarter that the dealer installed. If you go the way of arbitration get a lawyer trust me.
  • neil05neil05 Member Posts: 2
    Problems are:

    1. Little lights that illuminate the buttons are burning out, first just the rightmost, now half of the lights are burned out.

    2. I can adjust the blower zone (i.e. vent, floor, windshield), and the lights move around the dial, but physically, it's stuck on vent. So even though the dial indicator lights that surround the dial show it on "windshield" for instance, it will still blow 100% to the front vents. Blower intensity level (low to high) works fine, however.

    3. I press the A/C button (snowflake) and it does not kick on the AC compressor at all. But the rear defrost button does indeed activate the rear defrost.

    I am under the impression that there is some greater electrical problem at the root of these issues. My radio/GPS unit is messed up.. left audio channel only gives of a high-pitch ringing noise. It used to be intermittent, but now it's pretty much stuck, leaving me to move the balance all the way to the right so that I don't deafen my family.

    Any tips? Maybe just unplug and reseat all of the fuses?

    Thanks for ANY help you can offer. Honestly, if I can't get these fixed for a reasonable price, I just won't buy another Chrysler, ever. You don't blow a huge wad of cash on a mini-van to have it electrically crap out after less than 3 years.
  • lsavinskylsavinsky Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Chrysler Town and Country that died on me two days ago. I had problems starting it, and then when it started I couldn't cut it off. I turned the switch off and pulled the keys out of the ignition, but the van was still running. When I finally got it to cut off, I tried to restart it and everything was fine. While driving it, it started making a really loud screeching sound from under the hood on the passenger side. Then smoke started coming out from under the hood, and the van completely died. I have lost all power...even the hazard lights do not work. The smoke smelled like an electrical fire mixed with rubber burning. Any ideas on what happened?
  • wishstar3wishstar3 Member Posts: 1
    Why does my 97 Chrysler Town and Country have one brake light that won't work? It has a new bulb and comes on for tail light but not the brake. Other side is fine.
  • bewabewa Member Posts: 2
    hello to all, i have a 98 caravan battery light started comming on, a couple days prior you could feel it surging when the cooling fans would start so i patched a cable to the ac cooling fan but a shorted fan wasn't the problem did find a stuck thermostat during the check and fixed, it had a funny hot smell to it and the lights would go dim and bright and the heater fan would surge up and down, the battery connections are good and clean, battery is 2 years old full and charged, checked volts at battery showed 14.5vlts when running so i cleaned the terminals so its putting out with the battery light on? so the next day i took kids to the doctor (1 mile away) with heaters on and lights by the time i returned home the window wouldn't hardly power up so i put the voltmeter on it again and it was at 10.4vlts discharge, so i was thinking alternator went, i took it of and to the local parts store and had it on the counter and was spinning the pulley and it made a funny click then quit doing it, after that they put it on the checker and after a couple minutes it showed it was working fine, im at a total loss now i could sure try any suggestions
  • bewabewa Member Posts: 2
    if it has an aftermarket hitch it may have been wired incorrectly, i know a lot of these the third brake light is wired of one side or the other and has a so called (smart chip) in line so that both lights will work, if it goes bad or doesnt have one the side its wired into the brake light on that side will stop working, hope this might help
  • tcuhornfrogtcuhornfrog Member Posts: 1
    My '01 T&C has the entertainment system in it (factory installed). A tape got stuck in it and we removed it. Now the VCR & TV display will power on, blink and then turn off. We called the dealership and they told us that they no longer make VCR consoles and don't work on them either. Does anyone have any suggestions, besides get a DVD player? I really like VHS. Thank you. :)
  • tedebeartedebear Member Posts: 832
    so i was thinking alternator went, i took it of and to the local parts store and had it on the counter and was spinning the pulley and it made a funny click then quit doing it, after that they put it on the checker and after a couple minutes it showed it was working fine, im at a total loss now i could sure try any suggestions

    My guess (I'm not a mechanic) is that it could still be the alternator. Last fall I had a '98 model year car that quit running and I had to get it towed. Anything electrical barely worked or not at all.

    The shop tested the charging system and the alternator didn't indicate any problem with it. As the original owner I knew the nearly 10 year old alternator was probably ready to be replaced soon.

    The shop charged the battery, I drove it home, replaced the alternator and everything was fine after that.
  • goinnowherefasgoinnowherefas Member Posts: 2
    I am passing this information on second hand from my ex so I am not certain as to how accurate the description of the problem is. According to her the van ('97 T&C Lxi) lost all power steering and ability to brake the other evening, she also mentioned the headlights flashing and all interior lights doing the same. I have not been able to look at the van personally since I am without a means to get to the location. Prior to all of this we had noticed the ABS light coming on. The brakes were recently serviced. I suspect an alternator issue. The battery is less than 1 year old. Any ideas as to the problem? (The vehicle will start but there are still no brakes and power steering.) :(
  • minnteachderminnteachder Member Posts: 1
    I am having a light surging problem on my '07 T&C. The interior lights as well as the headlights. Anyone else experience this? How do I fix it (the shop is perplexed)?
  • tedebeartedebear Member Posts: 832
    I don't have a T&C but on my car I noticed the lights going dim/bright shortly before the alternator went out.

    A loose ground or corroded connection has been the cause of electrical surges in some other threads.
  • correllbilcorrellbil Member Posts: 3
    Anyone know how to test a CPS?
  • dougmottdougmott Member Posts: 1
    My 2005 T&C has the same problem. Once in a while it just starts working and then after another little while, it doesn't work. It is my left rear brake and blinker not working. Regular light comes on.
  • t301t301 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 T&C that has had a dimming problem since it was purchased. I have had it in many times only to have the dealer say everything is OK. Now that the warrenty is over I bet they will find a problem. This has been a complete pile of junk since new. It has had a new power stearing pump, computer, misc. motor components and new rings at 25,000 miles because it was using a quart of oil every 1000 miles. It has had the front sway arm bushings replaced 3 times. The vehicle only has 42,000 miles on it and now the bushings need replacement again. Chrysler does not stand behind their warrenty. I am looking at a new Honda because I cannot afford the up keep of this vehicle. I have always purchased American vehicles but that may change soon. :lemon: :lemon: :lemon: :lemon:
  • tmechtmech Member Posts: 1
    Working on a 2002 Grand Caravan.
    When key is on run or acc mode, all systems (radio, fan motor, wipers)
    work. as soon as you start vehicle, they all shut down.
    Charging system running at 14. volts, No codes in computer, Switched acc system relay..No change.
    Anybody have this happen to them?
    Trying to help out a friend with their Caravan and though I've been a tech for 23 years. I'm failing miserably on this one.

    Tony
  • rsg2rsg2 Member Posts: 3
    Hoping someone has some suggestions...Our 2003 Town and Country's reverse lights have stopped working. Thought it was a bulb or a fuse and it's not. Seems it may be something electrical and I don't know how to fix that! Any suggestions on how in depth it may be and if I have to have it fixed, how much the cost may be? Thanks!
  • chrytech1chrytech1 Member Posts: 2
    For starters you have a short on the backup lamp line. Was any work done on the Van ,such as trailer wiring? Second the BCM more than likely has a open driver IC for the backup lamps in it. I have worked on many of these BCM's with this same problem. I am a electronics tech that has worked on Chry electronics ,BCM,s Clusters,Radios and also the Chry RB4 nav radio for the past 24 years. You can msg me and I can give you more info on how to trouble shoot the BCM.
  • chrytech1chrytech1 Member Posts: 2
    What Nav radio do you have ? If it is the RB4 .I can help you.I work for the only service center in the country that still works on this radio.
  • rsg2rsg2 Member Posts: 3
    Thank you for the info on the backup lights. Is this something easy to check out? We have not had any work done, such as trailer wiring as you mentioned.
  • rsg2rsg2 Member Posts: 3
    I just thought of one more thing. The only thing we've had done recently (that may correspond with the time the backup lights stopped working) is we had the transmission fluid changed. Could this be related? I know they had a hard time getting the cap off to change it (my technical term "cap" as I am not "car-tech" savvy.
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