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Caravan/Town & Country Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • ringaloriringalori Member Posts: 3
    I have next problem with the Voyager 1996:

    - not working instrument cluster, all the gauges at zero, no display for distance or trip

    - not working wiper intermittent

    - not working speed control (tempomat)

    - when loocking the doors it unlock imediately

    But, sometimes when driving, the instrument cluster start working.

    I have already check the fuses, relays, conectors, remove the BCM and reinstal, resolder conector on instrument cluster panel, put the ground (-) wire direct to pin 7 on instrument cluster conector because I do not found the ground G200.
    Disconect clockspring conector, disconect conector on HVAC.


    Any idea?
  • maxima8maxima8 Member Posts: 14
    go to junk yard and get used gauge cluster maybe fix the problems take only 15 minutes to change good luck
  • 98dodge198dodge1 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 98 t&c the battery was going dead and the alarm was not reseting so i replaced the battery now all the buttons next to the ac controls are flashing. then after driving a while they stop. all the buttons still work. is there a reset for these? also i have had some issues lately with a random sputter. ill be driving and it will sputter sometimes and not others. ive checked for dtcs and there were none. i havent seen the ses light come on at all while this happens. i have had cluster issues where i had to hit the dash to get the car to start. i also have replaced the crank sensor and it helped for a while but now its back. thank you for your help
  • dugger2dugger2 Member Posts: 2
    I started my town and country, and it was running rough. I replaced my plugs and wire, but still no change.
    I believe my alternator is going bad...will this make the van run rough??
    I have the "engine" symbol lit on the dash too.
    thanks
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    No, not unless your battery was VERY low, and in that case you would not be able to start it long before it runs out of enough juice to power the park plugs.

    You may have a vacuum or fuel supply problem that is causing the rough operation. Find out the code(s) in the system by using a reader - that may give you a good idea of where to start. In general, I would check my compression first, then spark quality (there could be a problem with the ignition coil), then go from there.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • dugger2dugger2 Member Posts: 2
    thanks for the advice
    I did pull the wires off one at a time at the ignition coil....and there were 2 that weren't sparking strong like the others
    I also disconnected the battery while the van was running...and the engine would die...and I hear a loud noise coming from he alternator area...so I do believe I have an alternator going bad too
  • miket8miket8 Member Posts: 3
    I doubt the alternator is causing it to run rough. If you have two weak cylinders, this is not caused by the alternator. With the engine light on, that means there are codes. I'd have the codes read and go from there.
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    I agree with the other two posters. I do not think a weak alternator would make the van run rough. You should be able to run on the battery alone, assuming it has a good charge. If you already replaced the plugs and wires, I would look for cracked/leaking vacuum hoses.

    I would be careful pulling plug wires. Dumping unburned fuel into the exhaust is a good way to shorten the life of your catalytic converter.
  • luiscab70luiscab70 Member Posts: 2
    We have a 2007 T&C Touring and beginning this past winter, when the temperature dropped below 50, our Heat/AC would not come would not come on at all including the navigation compass above. This would cause the brake and ABS light to come on and the TRAC to turn off. When it got warmer all was fine, then the rain in APril caused some humidity and same thing happened. Now, when it reaches over 80 degrees, same thing.

    We have taken it in and the TIPM was replaced and now we are waiting for another part that arrives at the beginning of June.

    Has ANYONE experienced this type of electrical problem EVER???

    Your input would be appreciated.

    :mad: and :confuse:

    Luis in TX
  • natehart83natehart83 Member Posts: 1
    the car turns over wont start need help quick thanks
    :)
  • ringaloriringalori Member Posts: 3
    On Voyager 1996, rear right sliding door do not unlock! I can do it manualy, but not with power lock/unlock (key, button). But it alway lock with power lock/unlock key or button.
    Anybody know the issue?
  • amandashamandash Member Posts: 14
    My 98 T & C has started giving an intermittent problem of not starting. The car starts would just refuse to start even after just parking up. I notice that the PRND2L all light up with squares around them so you can not tell which gear the car is in when this happens.

    The battery is always strong and the starts kicks very strong when it starting normal. Sometimes when it happens I can wait for about 10 minutes and then it starts. Last night it just won't start.

    I want to believe it is a bad neutral/reverse safety switch which in this vehicle is located inside the transmission but before I undertake this I would like to hear some input/advise from others.
  • dwilburn1dwilburn1 Member Posts: 1
    Can you tell me exactly what they did to fix it? My T & C is doing the same thing. It has been in the shop 3 times and they still can't figure out how to fix it.
  • pcsmileypcsmiley Member Posts: 1
    i can reset the whole thing by pushing the trip button. it cycles through like three things and then resets. but when i use the blinker again, it makes the speedo and now the tach go mental and then drop.

    2001 town and countrty lxi.
  • amandashamandash Member Posts: 14
    Follow-up--- The problem turns out to be the cable was burnt out inside the battery clamp. So there was poor connection. Actually I should have known this since I had noticed before that the terminal was getting hot.
  • djokmandjokman Member Posts: 1
    Hi all, new to this forum but am hoping there is someone out there that can help. I've got a 1999 Town & Country LXI that will start chiming constantly for a long time. There are no lights on the dash that are coming on. The doors are all shut, seat belts being worn. It is about to drive me crazy!!! Any suggestions? Any way to remove the chime? (heard it is located in the BCM, can it be removed?) Van runs and drives just fine with no problems. Please help before I end up in a padded room somewhere!

    LOL :-)
  • cjunkencjunken Member Posts: 1
    Hey all, was wondering if anyone had experienced this problem. Just driving along and all the sudden all the warning lights on the dash light up and the wipers make two passes. Then everything returns to normal. This just happened a couple times within about a five mile distance. I've looked through the manual and can't find anything saying its trying to warn me about something. We are getting ready for a 3000 miles road trip so i need to resolve this quickly, if possible.
    Thanks
  • lhenklhenk Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with a 2001 T&C. Do you know what parts you had
    changed? i hope you got yours fixed.
  • fconversefconverse Member Posts: 2
    Did you ever find out what was going on regarding the electrical problem you posted on 4/19/09? I am having the EXACT same problems with my 98 T&C right now. Please let me know. Thanks. Fred
  • krhodenkrhoden Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem, can someone help, the wipers come on and all the warning lights come on, I cannot use the indicators or turn on anything. Took it to the dealership, and they say they cannot repeat the problem, therefore cannot fix it. Help anyone?
  • electrcianelectrcian Member Posts: 2
    I know someone who had the same problem and his problem was the Body Control Module. He got one from the dealer and it wasn't configured incorrectly and ended up frying his PCM. They tried to charge him thousands of dollars to fix it but he raised hell until they paid for a new PCM and BCM. It's best to replace them together. I'm no expert but just wanted to respond with what I have seen.
  • glynnaglynna Member Posts: 2
    2005 dodge caravan began having electrical problems 6-9 months ago. a loud POP noise then radio would go out, gauges would go spinning and indicator lights on dash would come on..this lasts for a few seconds to minutes then quit. vehicle never would quit & ran during these episodes..dealer tried several times to fix, never did, finally installed new battery, but this did not fix problem..any ideas I am very frustrated.thanks
  • luiscab70luiscab70 Member Posts: 2
    OK..We think we have it fixed. After four times, the dealer traced each wire path from the TIPM to every electrical source on the electrical console. What they found was one pinched wire that would trip the fuse (like a breaker at your house). They replaced that wire and thus far, the problem has not happened again. This is the longest it has worked with out tripping the fuse. Stay tuned. For those who have had similar problems, unless your dealer is willing to do this, check your states lemon laws. OUr dealer has been working with us for six months. THey have been great and I am glad a solution has come of it!
  • kersh1kersh1 Member Posts: 1
    My T&C is having some issues. I'm just over my 90,000 of course, but wanted to see if I can get some discounts if this is a recall issue. My drivers side window quit working about a month ago. Two weeks ago my right taillight went out and went to replace it, but after replacing still not working and finally just this Monday the automatic locks don't work from the keyless remote or internally with the locks. HELP! Thanks!
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    Intermittent shorts like that are a real bear to track down and fix. Sounds like your dealer has some very good techs in their shop - ones who are willing to spend the time and effort to find the root cause of a problem.
  • jpfjpf Member Posts: 496
    Oddball electrical problems are sometimes a symptom of a weak battery. I would have the charging system checked out to make sure your battery is holding its charge and the alternator is working properly. Good luck.
  • tat4tat4 Member Posts: 1
    Trying to start the van and nothing happens. Replaced the battery and dome lights will come on, but no dashboard lighting and no ignition. Some functions work and some do not. Also hear a "clicking" sound that seems to be coming from the fusebox but no blown fuses. Anyone have a clue?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    The clicking sounds are relays (those little black boxes in the main fuse/relay box). It may be a relay that is bad, an irregular connection (like a loose connector or bad ground in a connector), or something more complicated like a problem in the body control module or powertrain control module.

    I am currently hunting down a similar problem. My van will crank but is not getting fuel. There is no fuel pressure and the pump is not running, but trying to find the electrical gremlin causing it is just a slow, methodical, time-consuming process.

    Get a multimeter... ;)
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • joepeterson56joepeterson56 Member Posts: 95
    Hi Guys!

    This is a repost of an answer to this problem you are having. I posted this answer some time ago. It should take care of your problem. I had the same problem on an 87 that I owned, on that one it didn't involve the starter/solenoid, or the alternator. On that one, I just cleaned the existing grounds and put them back together, and for extra "just in case" security against faulty grounds in the future, I took a long wire and grounded it from the frame to the fenders and both heads and the block, then to the battery and never had another problem. It seems that all these c/d/p's have ground problems
    and they mimic other known electrical problems and have us chasing our tails, when it turns out to simple be a faulty ground, due to use of thin metal and different metals used on the vehicles. So, try this
    :
    #271 of 273Re: 1997 Grand Caravan-won't start without a jump [kizersoze] by joepeterson56 Jul 29, 2009 (2:52 pm)Save | Reply
    Replying to: kizersoze (Jun 28, 2009 2:52 pm)

    My 97 Voyager was doing the same thing. Had the alternator and starter checked at autozone, but both tested"good" according to them. I refused to believe them because the problem was behavior consistent with a bad starter or solenoid. After they told me it was good, I undid every single ground connection on the engine block and in the engine compartment, including where the control unit and electric distribution box connect, cleaned them with sandpapaer and/or a file, then reconnected them all. Problem persisted, so I went ahead and replaced the starter. Problem solved!! That was 2 yrs ago & no problem since. So, if you all have replaced your starters, do all the ground connections. If you did the ground connections, replace the starter. I know from all the c/d/p minis I have owned, that they are very tempermental when it comes to voltage/ground variations, and do the strangest things as a result of them. Most of which, Chrysler and/or the dealers refuse to acknowlege or have never hear of. Good luck.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Good call, Joe! I did not think to consider that it may be a current problem on that poster's van!

    Unfortunately, my van energizes just fine.... the problem is isolated to something relating to the fuel pump circuit. I do not think it is the pump itself, but there are other things that can be causing it, so I am just slowly trying to eliminate possibilities. Very frustrating. At 213,000 miles, even though the van runs perfectly when the FUBAR electrical system will actually let the engine start, it may be time to say goodbye. In any case, it is worth a heck of a lot more if it runs.... :(
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    I managed to get our Caravan up and running yesterday; it is back to being smooth as butter! For some reason, when I tried connecting my OBD-II reader to it while diagnosing the problem (turned out to be a bad fuel pump), the reader would not link to the van. It just said, "ERROR." I need to check it again now that everything else is working properly. If the link is still bad, I will do a little more research into possible causes. We may end up getting rid of it if we cannot use the on-board diagnostics system, as that could be a disaster later on as more problems inevitably arise. If I can fix it, though, I will.

    I was surprised that the fuel pump was the problem, given the symptoms. Someone suggested that the motor may have a "dead spot" in it that just slowly became worse and only manifested itself if the pump happened to stop with the gearing in just the right position. In any case, it is fixed now after much effort. The pump ended up costing $250, plus another $20 for a few miscellaneous parts to drain the fuel, etc., for a total cost of $270 and about ten hours of time diagnosing the problem and performing the repair.

    So, now that I had the battery drained/disconnected for a while, the console lights (wiper, int. wiper, recirc, and A/C buttons) flash for about ten minutes after starting. I know I read somewhere on here about the procedure for resolving that, but cannot find the post. Does anyone know? It does not seem to affect the operation of anything, but it would be nice to not have the distraction....

    Thank you for any suggestions,

    -Wes-
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • jtljjtlj Member Posts: 5
    i own a 2002 dodge caravan with a 2.4 liter motor it only has 32,000 miles on it if i drive some place and shut off the motor it has to sit for about one hour for the vehicle to restart the cam and crank sensors were replaced and the fuel filter was replaced the fuel pump appears to be working properly also the asd relay checked out ok and the coil pack checked out ok it is not getting any fuel to the throttle body it appears a component is getting hot preventing fuel from getting to the throttle body during the start cycle it will not start untill some part cools down i have had two garages work on the vehicle the mechanics are not sure what the problem is does anybody have a clue what is wrong with this van thank you for your consideration
  • kablokablo Member Posts: 2
    It just happened to my 2005 T&C (today) . I am working on it. If I get any results I will let you know
  • jay_rayajay_raya Member Posts: 1
    tat4 ... did you solve your problem?

    I have a clicking noise coming from the fuse box. I was wondering if you could tell me what did you do to solve your clicking noise.

    Jay
  • screwedbygmscrewedbygm Member Posts: 14
    Hi all,
    This may sound like a simple-minded request but the dashboard trim is all plastic and probably becoming extra brittle with age. I need to remove the trim around the instument cluster so as to remove it for the solder repair or replacement so widely discussed in this forum. Since I cannot see any screws, it probably just pries off but I've tried gently in several places with nothing yielding. Can someone please help out by explaining exactly how to pop this trim off without breaking it. Perhaps other members are similarly frustrated also.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    1998 Dodge Grand Caravan SE AWD, 3.8L V6, 213,000 miles

    Mechanically, this van is perfect and it runs/drives with precision. Regrettably, it is suddenly inundated with electrical gremlins and I cannot figure out the source. Any suggestions welcome.

    Here is the thing: I have about a 50% chance of the van starting. If, when I turn the ignition to "on," I hear the fuel pump whir, the van starts perfectly. If, instead, I do not hear the fuel pump whir and then hear a relay "click" about 1-2 seconds after turning the ignition to "on," the van will crank and crank, but not start. In this situation, I have no spark, fuel injector activity, or fuel pump activity. So, the ASD circuit must not be powered. However, the information I read indicates this circuit is controlled by the operation of the camshaft and crankshaft sensors. I am getting power to the sensors, so I replaced them. No change.

    Where else might the problem be? My relays all seem to test fine, etc., but yet the problem persists. If it starts, it will keep running without fail. Once it is turned off, though, it is anyone's guess if it will start again. I will state that I have not yet had it fail to start shortly after shutting it off. Whether or not that is symptomatic or coincidence, I am not yet sure.

    I am at my wit's end with this van and am seriously thinking about scrapping it. I hate to do that, given the excellent condition of everything but the electrical, but there comes a point when I just have to decide that this is one stress I no longer need to have. Of course, that is complicated by the fact that when I do fix this issue, I am going to sell it, but I will not dupe a buyer and sell a vehicle I know is unreliable.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    From your description of the symptoms, I would go after the fuel pump.

    Disconnect one of the fuel line hoses at the fuel filter (not sure exactly where this is on your vehicle). Try starting the car and see if you get fuel flow out of the line. Obviously, use something to catch the fuel. Do this maybe a dozen times and see if the fuel flow or lack thereof can be correlated to the "not hearing the fuel pump whir" symptom you mentioned.

    Be careful, and keep a fire extinguisher handy. There's always a danger when you're dealing with raw fuel like this.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    I know it seems like it might be the pump, but it is not. In fact, I just replaced the old fuel pump because it did go bad. The van worked just fine for about two weeks afterward, and now this new problem. It definitely involves the ASD relay circuit, however, because I do not get the spark or fuel. When the pump went bad, I had spark and fuel injector activity, but there was just no fuel pressure in the line.

    I appreciate the suggestion!
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • wantanewcar2wantanewcar2 Member Posts: 6
    We have a 2005 Town and Country minivan. It has been having serious intermittent electrical problems which no mechanic seems to want to figure out. The analog dials will spin, lights on dash flicker, warning lights go on and off, radio crackles, dvd player crackles, HVAC will pulse air when it is in the off position, etc. These "episodes" last a few seconds to a few minutes. Occasionally the car will completely shut down if there is a lot of flashing and dial spinning going on. Has anyone ever had problems like these...and did someone actually figure out what the problem is?
  • wilanzwilanz Member Posts: 4
    i have the same van with 110K miles. I also have a dashboard disco happening about once every couple of weeks. I am glad to hear it is not just me.

    I plan on trading it in ASAP and crossing my fingers that it doesn't act up when the dealer checks it out.

    I also had a problem where the headlights kept turning off while driving and sometimes they would stay on. It would take multiple turns of the switch to get them on or off. I replaced the switch and that solved the issue.
  • rayfalconrayfalcon Member Posts: 5
    I know this might seem like a total crazy and irrelavant idea but trust me its a whole lot less expensive by like 1200 -$2,200 less so any ways.....I got a 1994 oldsmobile 88 royal and it done the same thing th engine even ran irratic and stalled out a few times on me $1,199 later i found out that it was caused by my gas cap
    i had got gas a few hours before and never checked the cap like i should have ...at swiftys gas station they pump the gas and never tightened my cap good it will cause the computer ( the brain ) of the vehicle to shut its self down after about 3 miles or when ever it decides to if its not tightened. these newer vehicles have built in self diagnostic computer control modules also called dccm's in some cases if it senses an error it will do everything in the world to cause its self to stop if it cant be corrected internally via electronics .....on the same note have your abs and airbag lights also been comming on ? email personally and I will help to correct the issues before you get rid of the van(s) and vehicles just put automotive problems as the subject truckinforjesus@windstream.net
    P.S the automotive industries say they put that on there to save you gas cause cars burn the vapors and a loose capp will leak the vapors however i think they are doing it just to get more repair bill and money from us their customers.
  • glynnaglynna Member Posts: 2
    I had 2005 Dodge Caravan doing the dashboard disco; took to 2 dealers, several times who kept it, drove it & when it would act up THEY could not find the problem. finally I had to trade it.....
  • jimi55lpjimi55lp Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1999 T&C LXI with the overdrive transaxle, and a week ago it began downshifting hard after stopping. I hooked it to an Actron scantool to check for trouble codes, and it reported "transaxle control system fault" explanation ECM recieved a signal that the transaxle control module has a fault. It also reported "input speed sensor (ISS) 1 circuit" explanation The ECM has detected that the input speed signal changed suddenly. The simtum is if the car is driving in the upper gears, and you come to a full stop, the trans downshifts seconds later instead of while the car is slowing to a stop. It shifts hard into the low gear with a bump that feels like someone has tapped the rear of the car. Any thoughts as to if the sensor must be changed or if this needs to be handled by a transmission shop?
  • jimi55lpjimi55lp Member Posts: 2
    My 99' van has the airbag warning light lit on dash and the horn can't be blown from the steering wheel but it blows when you set the door locks/alarm. The steering wheel radio adjustment buttons also stopped working along with the cruise control. The cruis control stopped first a month before the airbag light lit, so it may not be related. I'm tempted to remove the airbag and wheel just to se if it is a broken contact in the steering colume. When attaching the van to a Actron scantool, nothing is reported by the code tool about the horn or airbag. No fuses are blown.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    This problem sounds like a bad clock spring in the steering wheel. Basically, that is the mechanism that maintains an electrical connection between the items in the turning part of the wheel (airbag, horn button, wheel-mounted controls) and the steering column.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    I suspect this problem really is the speed sensor not functioning properly. It is hard to say at this point, but I think I would go ahead and start there. Because it started suddenly, I doubt it is a mechanical problem in the transmission.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • wantanewcar2wantanewcar2 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the responses and I guess there is some comfort in knowing I am not alone.

    I just picked up the van from the dealer. 3 days in the shop and they still have no idea what it could be. They did offer to completely dismantle the entire electrical system in my van to diagnose it. This could take "days to weeks to figure it out, and that would be at $95 hour". Really? not sure if that is a gamble I want to take given that it has been in the shop 5 times for an average of 3 days each time and they have no clue.

    Given the number of people with this problem (or one similar) I find it shocking that some mechanic somewhere has not solved this problem! If anyone actually has a solution please let us all know!
  • dodgenightmaredodgenightmare Member Posts: 6
    There are screws in various places that you have to undo before you can "pry" the trim off. If your T&C is anything like my '98 Dodge GC - they are really the same thing just different names - you should be able to get it off by doing the following:

    1) You first have to remove the "leg" fascia under the steering wheel - there are at least two (2) screws keeping this in place at the lower end, and two (2) behind the park-brake release lever. Another screw is located on the driver door side - open the door to get access to it. Once all the screws are removed, the "leg" fascia clips out at the upper end on either side of the steering column.

    2) Now you can access and undo the screws that are keeping the "dashboard trim" in place. There are a couple of screws at the lower part beside/on each side of the steering wheel/column. They become visible & accessible once the "leg" fascia is removed. There is also a screw behind the air-duct port that feeds the driver door. Open the door to see/access the port. Once you have removed the screws around the "park-brake release lever" - as explained above - you should be able to gently pry the port molding lose. With the port-molding removed, you should be able to access what I believe is the last screw. But double check to see if you can find any others - I am not looking at my car as I am typing this and am going from memory.

    3) once ALL the screws have been removed, you can "gently pry" the trim lose from around the center vents - to the right of the steering wheel, above the radio and other gadget console. On my vehicle there are no screws in this area to remove. It is just kept in place with re-socket-able clips.

    Hope that helps.

    If not, go to any auto-parts store and get a repair manual for your vehicle - they are about $20 and very handy to have.

    Good luck.

    Dodge Nightmare
  • dodgenightmaredodgenightmare Member Posts: 6
    Not sure what your original post was, but from your "dashboard disco" heading I am guessing it has to do with your instrument panel playing up.

    From that guess, two scenarios come to mind in order of ease to fix:

    1) The "plug" that connects the speedometer & tacometer cable to the transmission has jarred loose. On my vehicle the plastic "locking" clip has deteriorated causing the "plug" to jar loose when I was driving on an unpaved road. It took me a while to figure out why I was doing 120 MPH one second and 20 MPH - or even standing still the next - all while traveling at a constant velocity. :confuse: But once I figured it out, it was a simple matter of plugging it back in and avoiding unpaved roads. :) The "plug" is located on the transmission body facing the front of the vehicle - at least on my Dodge GC it is - and should be accessible from around the left-front-wheel. You may need to jack the car up and secure it on some stands - or drive both front wheel onto some blocks on an even level surface so you can crawl underneath. Of course, do this when the engine is cool, or else you may cause yourself some major burns. I just "plugged" my plug back in and haven't had any challenges since, but I have also not been on any unpaved roads since, either. If "off-roading" is unavoidable for you, you can buy a new plug and "splice" it in, but only the dealers sell them and charge the monopoly price of about $51.00 just for the part - plastic plug with some wires attached. Installation is extra if you don't do it yourself. If you are a DIYer you may try a wrecking yard if you don't want to fork over $50+ . . . or you could get some "goop" or "glue" to keep it in place.

    2) The instrument cluster circuit board has some broken solder points causing a bad connection or failed communication when ambient temperatures change, You will know if you have this problem because sometimes your car will start (when the instruments work) and sometimes it won't (when the instruments don't work). If you have an anti-theft system on your vehicle, you have probably also come across the "three starts and then dead" fiasco - when you turn the key the engine starts and then immediately dies. After three tries, NOTHING. The first three dies is the fuel-pump relay shutting down because the computer senses a "communication" malfunction. The DEAD part is the security system kicking in because it thinks there may be an attempt to steal/hot-wire the vehicle, so it shuts everything down.

    The fix for this is to remove the instrument cluster and examine every solder point on each of the TWO circuit boards - back and front - that control the instrument cluster. Any cracked - or questionable - solder points should be re-soldered. If your situation is similar to the one I experienced, this should do the trick. To do this yourself you will need the following:

    1) a Philip Screw Driver
    2) a small Soldering Iron
    3) some Solder
    4) possibly a Magnifying Glass
    5) a Steady Hand
    6) some faith in yourself : )
    7) or a kind friend or neighbor willing to help out

    Cost for all of these tools - if you don't already have them - is less than $10.00 at Harbor Freight. If you solicit your neighbor you may want to budget a little extra for the thank-you gift : )

    And to get to the Instrument Cluster, scroll down a few posts to DodgeNightmare's response to "Screwed by GM's" post where I explain the procedure for removing the Dashboard Trim.

    And apparently the reason for the solder points cracking in the first place is a bad manufacturing batch. The solder points were soldered too cold, causing them to be weak and to crack over time. Ambient temperature changes cause the cracks to expand and contract, explaining the on-again off-again phenomenon. Car companies won't recall them because it is not a life threat, and therefore not an ominous legal issue.

    Hope this helps.

    Dodge Nightmare :shades:
  • kochesekochese Member Posts: 11
    I have a 1998 T&C and once the air bag lite came on it was down hill from there. Next that happened was my 4 little lites blink for the heat and a/c control. also noticed I have no cruse control to .I gotta tell ya I love this car. To this day it drives like a dream. I drove some of these new cars , and ah not so hot..I so I'm crossed from spending money on my old car I already know , or go into more dep with these crappy cars they build today.Can some one shed some lite on this .. Greatfuly yours kochese. P.S. If you need plumbing advice I can help you IM a master plumber /heat / and A/C..TtHANKS
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