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- not working instrument cluster, all the gauges at zero, no display for distance or trip
- not working wiper intermittent
- not working speed control (tempomat)
- when loocking the doors it unlock imediately
But, sometimes when driving, the instrument cluster start working.
I have already check the fuses, relays, conectors, remove the BCM and reinstal, resolder conector on instrument cluster panel, put the ground (-) wire direct to pin 7 on instrument cluster conector because I do not found the ground G200.
Disconect clockspring conector, disconect conector on HVAC.
Any idea?
I believe my alternator is going bad...will this make the van run rough??
I have the "engine" symbol lit on the dash too.
thanks
You may have a vacuum or fuel supply problem that is causing the rough operation. Find out the code(s) in the system by using a reader - that may give you a good idea of where to start. In general, I would check my compression first, then spark quality (there could be a problem with the ignition coil), then go from there.
I did pull the wires off one at a time at the ignition coil....and there were 2 that weren't sparking strong like the others
I also disconnected the battery while the van was running...and the engine would die...and I hear a loud noise coming from he alternator area...so I do believe I have an alternator going bad too
I would be careful pulling plug wires. Dumping unburned fuel into the exhaust is a good way to shorten the life of your catalytic converter.
We have taken it in and the TIPM was replaced and now we are waiting for another part that arrives at the beginning of June.
Has ANYONE experienced this type of electrical problem EVER???
Your input would be appreciated.
:mad: and :confuse:
Luis in TX
Anybody know the issue?
The battery is always strong and the starts kicks very strong when it starting normal. Sometimes when it happens I can wait for about 10 minutes and then it starts. Last night it just won't start.
I want to believe it is a bad neutral/reverse safety switch which in this vehicle is located inside the transmission but before I undertake this I would like to hear some input/advise from others.
2001 town and countrty lxi.
LOL :-)
Thanks
changed? i hope you got yours fixed.
I am currently hunting down a similar problem. My van will crank but is not getting fuel. There is no fuel pressure and the pump is not running, but trying to find the electrical gremlin causing it is just a slow, methodical, time-consuming process.
Get a multimeter...
This is a repost of an answer to this problem you are having. I posted this answer some time ago. It should take care of your problem. I had the same problem on an 87 that I owned, on that one it didn't involve the starter/solenoid, or the alternator. On that one, I just cleaned the existing grounds and put them back together, and for extra "just in case" security against faulty grounds in the future, I took a long wire and grounded it from the frame to the fenders and both heads and the block, then to the battery and never had another problem. It seems that all these c/d/p's have ground problems
and they mimic other known electrical problems and have us chasing our tails, when it turns out to simple be a faulty ground, due to use of thin metal and different metals used on the vehicles. So, try this
:
#271 of 273Re: 1997 Grand Caravan-won't start without a jump [kizersoze] by joepeterson56 Jul 29, 2009 (2:52 pm)Save | Reply
Replying to: kizersoze (Jun 28, 2009 2:52 pm)
My 97 Voyager was doing the same thing. Had the alternator and starter checked at autozone, but both tested"good" according to them. I refused to believe them because the problem was behavior consistent with a bad starter or solenoid. After they told me it was good, I undid every single ground connection on the engine block and in the engine compartment, including where the control unit and electric distribution box connect, cleaned them with sandpapaer and/or a file, then reconnected them all. Problem persisted, so I went ahead and replaced the starter. Problem solved!! That was 2 yrs ago & no problem since. So, if you all have replaced your starters, do all the ground connections. If you did the ground connections, replace the starter. I know from all the c/d/p minis I have owned, that they are very tempermental when it comes to voltage/ground variations, and do the strangest things as a result of them. Most of which, Chrysler and/or the dealers refuse to acknowlege or have never hear of. Good luck.
Unfortunately, my van energizes just fine.... the problem is isolated to something relating to the fuel pump circuit. I do not think it is the pump itself, but there are other things that can be causing it, so I am just slowly trying to eliminate possibilities. Very frustrating. At 213,000 miles, even though the van runs perfectly when the FUBAR electrical system will actually let the engine start, it may be time to say goodbye. In any case, it is worth a heck of a lot more if it runs....
I was surprised that the fuel pump was the problem, given the symptoms. Someone suggested that the motor may have a "dead spot" in it that just slowly became worse and only manifested itself if the pump happened to stop with the gearing in just the right position. In any case, it is fixed now after much effort. The pump ended up costing $250, plus another $20 for a few miscellaneous parts to drain the fuel, etc., for a total cost of $270 and about ten hours of time diagnosing the problem and performing the repair.
So, now that I had the battery drained/disconnected for a while, the console lights (wiper, int. wiper, recirc, and A/C buttons) flash for about ten minutes after starting. I know I read somewhere on here about the procedure for resolving that, but cannot find the post. Does anyone know? It does not seem to affect the operation of anything, but it would be nice to not have the distraction....
Thank you for any suggestions,
-Wes-
I have a clicking noise coming from the fuse box. I was wondering if you could tell me what did you do to solve your clicking noise.
Jay
This may sound like a simple-minded request but the dashboard trim is all plastic and probably becoming extra brittle with age. I need to remove the trim around the instument cluster so as to remove it for the solder repair or replacement so widely discussed in this forum. Since I cannot see any screws, it probably just pries off but I've tried gently in several places with nothing yielding. Can someone please help out by explaining exactly how to pop this trim off without breaking it. Perhaps other members are similarly frustrated also.
Mechanically, this van is perfect and it runs/drives with precision. Regrettably, it is suddenly inundated with electrical gremlins and I cannot figure out the source. Any suggestions welcome.
Here is the thing: I have about a 50% chance of the van starting. If, when I turn the ignition to "on," I hear the fuel pump whir, the van starts perfectly. If, instead, I do not hear the fuel pump whir and then hear a relay "click" about 1-2 seconds after turning the ignition to "on," the van will crank and crank, but not start. In this situation, I have no spark, fuel injector activity, or fuel pump activity. So, the ASD circuit must not be powered. However, the information I read indicates this circuit is controlled by the operation of the camshaft and crankshaft sensors. I am getting power to the sensors, so I replaced them. No change.
Where else might the problem be? My relays all seem to test fine, etc., but yet the problem persists. If it starts, it will keep running without fail. Once it is turned off, though, it is anyone's guess if it will start again. I will state that I have not yet had it fail to start shortly after shutting it off. Whether or not that is symptomatic or coincidence, I am not yet sure.
I am at my wit's end with this van and am seriously thinking about scrapping it. I hate to do that, given the excellent condition of everything but the electrical, but there comes a point when I just have to decide that this is one stress I no longer need to have. Of course, that is complicated by the fact that when I do fix this issue, I am going to sell it, but I will not dupe a buyer and sell a vehicle I know is unreliable.
Disconnect one of the fuel line hoses at the fuel filter (not sure exactly where this is on your vehicle). Try starting the car and see if you get fuel flow out of the line. Obviously, use something to catch the fuel. Do this maybe a dozen times and see if the fuel flow or lack thereof can be correlated to the "not hearing the fuel pump whir" symptom you mentioned.
Be careful, and keep a fire extinguisher handy. There's always a danger when you're dealing with raw fuel like this.
I appreciate the suggestion!
I plan on trading it in ASAP and crossing my fingers that it doesn't act up when the dealer checks it out.
I also had a problem where the headlights kept turning off while driving and sometimes they would stay on. It would take multiple turns of the switch to get them on or off. I replaced the switch and that solved the issue.
i had got gas a few hours before and never checked the cap like i should have ...at swiftys gas station they pump the gas and never tightened my cap good it will cause the computer ( the brain ) of the vehicle to shut its self down after about 3 miles or when ever it decides to if its not tightened. these newer vehicles have built in self diagnostic computer control modules also called dccm's in some cases if it senses an error it will do everything in the world to cause its self to stop if it cant be corrected internally via electronics .....on the same note have your abs and airbag lights also been comming on ? email personally and I will help to correct the issues before you get rid of the van(s) and vehicles just put automotive problems as the subject truckinforjesus@windstream.net
P.S the automotive industries say they put that on there to save you gas cause cars burn the vapors and a loose capp will leak the vapors however i think they are doing it just to get more repair bill and money from us their customers.
I just picked up the van from the dealer. 3 days in the shop and they still have no idea what it could be. They did offer to completely dismantle the entire electrical system in my van to diagnose it. This could take "days to weeks to figure it out, and that would be at $95 hour". Really? not sure if that is a gamble I want to take given that it has been in the shop 5 times for an average of 3 days each time and they have no clue.
Given the number of people with this problem (or one similar) I find it shocking that some mechanic somewhere has not solved this problem! If anyone actually has a solution please let us all know!
1) You first have to remove the "leg" fascia under the steering wheel - there are at least two (2) screws keeping this in place at the lower end, and two (2) behind the park-brake release lever. Another screw is located on the driver door side - open the door to get access to it. Once all the screws are removed, the "leg" fascia clips out at the upper end on either side of the steering column.
2) Now you can access and undo the screws that are keeping the "dashboard trim" in place. There are a couple of screws at the lower part beside/on each side of the steering wheel/column. They become visible & accessible once the "leg" fascia is removed. There is also a screw behind the air-duct port that feeds the driver door. Open the door to see/access the port. Once you have removed the screws around the "park-brake release lever" - as explained above - you should be able to gently pry the port molding lose. With the port-molding removed, you should be able to access what I believe is the last screw. But double check to see if you can find any others - I am not looking at my car as I am typing this and am going from memory.
3) once ALL the screws have been removed, you can "gently pry" the trim lose from around the center vents - to the right of the steering wheel, above the radio and other gadget console. On my vehicle there are no screws in this area to remove. It is just kept in place with re-socket-able clips.
Hope that helps.
If not, go to any auto-parts store and get a repair manual for your vehicle - they are about $20 and very handy to have.
Good luck.
Dodge Nightmare
From that guess, two scenarios come to mind in order of ease to fix:
1) The "plug" that connects the speedometer & tacometer cable to the transmission has jarred loose. On my vehicle the plastic "locking" clip has deteriorated causing the "plug" to jar loose when I was driving on an unpaved road. It took me a while to figure out why I was doing 120 MPH one second and 20 MPH - or even standing still the next - all while traveling at a constant velocity. :confuse: But once I figured it out, it was a simple matter of plugging it back in and avoiding unpaved roads. The "plug" is located on the transmission body facing the front of the vehicle - at least on my Dodge GC it is - and should be accessible from around the left-front-wheel. You may need to jack the car up and secure it on some stands - or drive both front wheel onto some blocks on an even level surface so you can crawl underneath. Of course, do this when the engine is cool, or else you may cause yourself some major burns. I just "plugged" my plug back in and haven't had any challenges since, but I have also not been on any unpaved roads since, either. If "off-roading" is unavoidable for you, you can buy a new plug and "splice" it in, but only the dealers sell them and charge the monopoly price of about $51.00 just for the part - plastic plug with some wires attached. Installation is extra if you don't do it yourself. If you are a DIYer you may try a wrecking yard if you don't want to fork over $50+ . . . or you could get some "goop" or "glue" to keep it in place.
2) The instrument cluster circuit board has some broken solder points causing a bad connection or failed communication when ambient temperatures change, You will know if you have this problem because sometimes your car will start (when the instruments work) and sometimes it won't (when the instruments don't work). If you have an anti-theft system on your vehicle, you have probably also come across the "three starts and then dead" fiasco - when you turn the key the engine starts and then immediately dies. After three tries, NOTHING. The first three dies is the fuel-pump relay shutting down because the computer senses a "communication" malfunction. The DEAD part is the security system kicking in because it thinks there may be an attempt to steal/hot-wire the vehicle, so it shuts everything down.
The fix for this is to remove the instrument cluster and examine every solder point on each of the TWO circuit boards - back and front - that control the instrument cluster. Any cracked - or questionable - solder points should be re-soldered. If your situation is similar to the one I experienced, this should do the trick. To do this yourself you will need the following:
1) a Philip Screw Driver
2) a small Soldering Iron
3) some Solder
4) possibly a Magnifying Glass
5) a Steady Hand
6) some faith in yourself : )
7) or a kind friend or neighbor willing to help out
Cost for all of these tools - if you don't already have them - is less than $10.00 at Harbor Freight. If you solicit your neighbor you may want to budget a little extra for the thank-you gift : )
And to get to the Instrument Cluster, scroll down a few posts to DodgeNightmare's response to "Screwed by GM's" post where I explain the procedure for removing the Dashboard Trim.
And apparently the reason for the solder points cracking in the first place is a bad manufacturing batch. The solder points were soldered too cold, causing them to be weak and to crack over time. Ambient temperature changes cause the cracks to expand and contract, explaining the on-again off-again phenomenon. Car companies won't recall them because it is not a life threat, and therefore not an ominous legal issue.
Hope this helps.
Dodge Nightmare :shades: