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Caravan/Town & Country Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • suzidogsuzidog Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for your suggestion, but our T & C does not have a security system. The chryler dealer updated some computer modules a week ago, and so far so good. The key fob seems to be a trigger, but we don't know why.
  • mom5girlsmom5girls Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever figure out the cause of your problem? I just bought my 05 caravan 2 months ago and it's doing exactly the same thing. Brought it to the dealership and they couldn't duplicate the problem. I feel helpless.
  • taz71098taz71098 Member Posts: 1
    OMG,OMG,OMG My 98 T&C does that, the key comes out. My daughter pulled the key out while I was driving, but it didnt quit working.
  • greekmom06greekmom06 Member Posts: 1
    I changed the BCM on my '02 chrysler town and country with no luck. I have replaced the computer and traced the wires, and checked fuses and relays. I am at a loss. :mad:
  • rpaul3rpaul3 Member Posts: 14
    There is a known issue battery acid can leak under the battery tray and destroy wire(s)

    http://www.chryslerminivan.net/
  • coriecorie Member Posts: 2
    I had the same problem. I unplugged the 6DVD changer that was connected to the radio, have not had a problem since.
  • coriecorie Member Posts: 2
    try unplugging 6DVD changer from radio, that fixed my problem.
  • katt55katt55 Member Posts: 1
    was in an accident do to the fob key. I bought my 2010 town & country the first of May in 2011. It shut off on me at least three times before we were in the accident. The first few times it happened I thought it was me, that I must of not turned it on all the way or something. Then I recieved the notice in the mail at the end of August and immetiatly called to schedule the appointment to have it fixed. I did what the notice said and made sure to take any lose keys off and make sure it is in the on postion. My children and I were making a left hand turn at a light, just got off the freeway) and as I presided to go it shut down and we went onto the medium. Took out the whole front end. my children were brused and sore from this and it really iritated my existing pain conditions. I have had it in repeatedly cuz it still is not fixed right. The key fob fix they did causes the turn signals, radio, blinkers, all the electrical not work. It broke my key and they had to replace it. It makes this banging clunking sound and it is loud. The faster I go the more it is all over the road, the transmission stalls, is shifting out of range, the tires are wearing bald fast and they were replaced cuz of the accident. It feels like the whole bottom is going to come right out from under us. The dealership the first time I had to take it back in, at least I think it was the first time I took it back in?? Had to replace the struts, do an aliment and had to reset the transmission cvi and adaptives and they have had to reset them every time now I've took it back in. I am taking it in to another shop other then the dealership. I need a second opion. They have to be incompetent cuz you can clearly hear there is something wrong with it still. I am having nightmares of having an accident on the freeway and my children being mutalated by passing cars. I am seeing a physicatrist because of this and em on atavan to help with the axiety, sleeplessness and stress from driving this van. We all need to get together and start a class action lawsuit unless there is already one going then I need information to join. I want out from under this crappy van. None of us should have to be stuck with these vehicles and I for one em tired of paying for it.

    We need to all come together and make this real. We need to start a class action lawsuit.
  • 2008owner12008owner1 Member Posts: 2
    has anyone had fuel modular problems. dealer has car for ovfer week and just called today and ask if i wanted used part or new one?????
  • annaborcichannaborcich Member Posts: 1
    Oh wow, I have had this problem for four years and have had my car towed and/or abandoned multiple times. Spent hundreds of dollars but when I tried your trick it worked. You have no idea how happy I am right now! Thank you.
  • maxima8maxima8 Member Posts: 14
    Air bags and abs lights are on. a/c and turn signal do not work
  • brd3brd3 Member Posts: 6
    My 2008 TC had similar electrical issues and when the car was turned off/on they temporarily went away. Turns out it was an electrical short in the drivers side door wiring harness. Once this wiring harness was replaced the flashing dashboard lights, possessed windshield wipers, interior lighting, non- functioning door lock ect. ect issues were all fixed. The 2008 T&C had a recall to replace the side sliding door wiring harnesses and I have had those replaced. Now that I know the problem was an electrical short in the front door wire harnesses I sent a complaint to the NHTSA because I never knew if the air bag had failed or was still working. The company that made the sliding door wiring harnesses that were recalled most likely used the same wire for the front door harnesses. No wonder the front door wire harness failed too.
  • outinthewoodsoutinthewoods Member Posts: 3
    Hi,...My fathers 2003 Dodge caravan has been acting up electrically lately and i cant seem to isolate the problem....Everything works fine,.... Radio, Blower, Wipers,Windows etc,....while the engine is off,.... u start the engine, the accessories will turn off while the ignition is on start as they should but when the engine starts, they will only come on for 1 second then turn off,.... They will not work with the engine running. I have tried another fuse box,,,, another Body control Module, cleaned the ground in the passengers side door post, no change,.....The only way to get this stuff to work is to run a ground wire to each affected relay in the fuse box...If someone could please suggest something else to try, it would be greatly appreciated.... Thanks,
    Barry
  • outinthewoodsoutinthewoods Member Posts: 3
    The accessories in a 2003 caravan will only work with the engine not running... With it running, there is no radio, wipers, blower etc....From what ive been hearing, the electrical system in those machines have been made unnecessarily complicated for no apparent reason and im nearly ready to rip out all Dodge's wiring and put in my own!,.. I have checked some grounds and replaced the Body Control Module,... all to no avail,... Im hoping someone out there can help me? :confuse:
  • jeffscismjeffscism Member Posts: 4
    Sounds like the Ignition switch, or the wires which run to it. Not the accessory position but while in the RUN position, could be a short, a ground fault. or simply lack of contact by the switch itself. Check your fuses as well.
  • hals492hals492 Member Posts: 1
    i have 97 t&c 3.8 car starts runs fine, 15 min later quits,and has no current to coil pack, wait 15 min or so current back runs fine.i think coil pack gets current from ecm,am new here thanks for any help
  • rpaul3rpaul3 Member Posts: 14
    Sounds a lot like a problem I had with a Caravan. Turned out a two fold problem - fuel pump in tank was weak so killed power. check the fuel pressure if you have a gauge. also thump the fuel tank with rubber mallet while some one turns it over sometimes the fuel pump will come alive and it will start that will tell you if FP is bad. I also replaced a intermittent start/run relay that was sticking. good luck
  • ronstaffordronstafford Member Posts: 1
    Have them replace the engine compartment and the under dashboard wiring harnesses and your problem should disappear....
  • kndevil117kndevil117 Member Posts: 1
    hello
    Im having a problem with my ingintion of my 2005 town and country. When i put the key in to start the car it clicks when turned to turn it on but makes a buzzing noise somewhere where the peddles are at the bottom. It will crank it you play with it and let it buzz for a sec or play with it. Took it the other day to a shop and they said its not the alternator or nothing in the engine. It has something to do when you turn the key to let the car know to turn on. Ive been looking it up and cant find anybody with the same problem. So if anybody knows what could be causing the buzzing noise and the car to have trouble turning on please let me know?????? BC if its an easy fix i would rather fix it myself then have to pay alot of money for nothing
  • outinthewoodsoutinthewoods Member Posts: 3
    I just about lost my mind trying to figure this out,....i finally cut the yellow wire going to the engine control module and everything works fine,...been ok now for a month,... guess that wire isnt very important after all
  • harp2uharp2u Member Posts: 1
    Hey all! I have a electrical issue with the drivers side tail light doesn't work, all bulbs have been replaced. As well as the dash board crashing while driving ( no lights, gauges etc..) never happens right after a fill up but only lasts until the vehicles next stop..... :confuse:
  • rpaul3rpaul3 Member Posts: 14
    search the web - repair for dash cluster - also reprogram routine for ECM
  • jims77jims77 Member Posts: 3
    Driver door switch will not lock all doors normally. Unlocks OK and will lock all doors if hold switch up in unlock position. Passenger door switch and remotes work normally. Tried replacing switch and removing IOD fuse.
  • jims77jims77 Member Posts: 3
    I should add that I have searched this and other forums and didn't find similar issue. Looking for help because I don't think a wiring issue.
  • rpaul3rpaul3 Member Posts: 14
    check relays and swap them if same number
  • jims77jims77 Member Posts: 3
    Do not see any door lock relays in fuse/relay box. Could not find location for 2004, unless none and only thru BCM. Thanks fo rhelp.
  • lacountrylacountry Member Posts: 1
    edited May 2013
    Hello fellow owners i am a 2007 chrysler town and country owner and it has been giving me some problems with the mph speedometer when i put the van in gear the needle will jump to 50 mph and the next is that the miles are running up on neutral while putting the vehicle in gear the tranny makes a jerking motion . I took it to my local mechanic only to change two sensors and the lower links but the check engine light is still on and is still doing the same things my mechanic assured me that the tranny is good but that it might be an electrical problem. Please help any insight will be truly appreciated thanks.
  • jimmyjames5jimmyjames5 Member Posts: 1
    i ahve the same problem Ive bot a used 1998 chrysler town and country batery light comes on radio goes out dash lights goes out acts like it isnt getting any gas if i stop ehrn its doing this then i cant start it for 15 to 30 min i took it to autozone and they put it on there comp battery was fine but voltqage regulator is going bad they said but thats in the computer
  • surfpoetesssurfpoetess Member Posts: 1
    Same problem! So thankful that we got the extended warranty. We have had wiring replaced, alternator replaced, battery replaced, and the corroded connector to the battery replaced. Problem is still happening. I suspect that the air conditioner is the culprit.
  • dale3nj8dale3nj8 Member Posts: 2
    Mine did exactly the same thing and it cost me over 1000 at Chrysler to replace a computer, but it worked.
  • kai229kai229 Member Posts: 1
    Please help!!! My battery keeps going dead! Had battery replaced, continued to die. Had new battery checked, was told that the battery was fine. Used a gage, checked the fuses, the iod (ignition off draw fuse) was drawing off of the battery, when ignition was off! Thought that was the problem, so pulled the fuse. In the morning, put in fuse, battery was dead! Now it sounds as though battery is boiling! This is a brand new interstate battery! I am currently out of work with a back injury and need this fixed promptly and cheaply to get to my appointments! When the car is running, everything is fine, all systems work. Please advise!
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    You need to figure out which circuit (fuse) is drawing the excessive current. Once you have that narrowed down, you need to determine which module or load on that circuit is the culprit.

    You can use an ammeter or an oscilloscope with a current probe to trace the current flow. You could also measure the voltage drop across each fuse in the fuse panel when the van is supposed to be off. This last measurement can be tricky because of the low (millivolts or less) voltages involved.
  • jd495jd495 Member Posts: 1
    Help please its cold out side.

    I have a 1997 Chrysler town and country LXi
    3.8 motor

    My blower fan was making some noise awhile back and has now went out.
    So i replaced the motor and the fan it self. Still don't work.

    I replaced the Relay in the fuse box under the hood and still nothing.

    I replaced the resistor under the hood on fire wall passenger side.Still don't work.

    I'm out of ideas here, I keep getting told to test this or that but i haven't got a tester nor do i even know how to run one if i did.

    Here a re a few other things going wrong with my van,
    #1 My Air bag light is on and my cruise and horn don't work. I suspect the Lock Ring is shot.

    #2 My car will start and then shut off 3 seconds later. And act like it out of gas. Gauges will read nothing.

    #3 I'm driving and all the gauges will just shut off. i smack the dash and they pop back on.

    #4. My door lock will unlock and lock back up on there own. i have to pull the battery cable at night so they don't unlock and somebody steals my stuff inside while i sleep.

    I was told this stuff is because of the body control module is going bad.
    Not sure what or were this is.

    Thanks
    Jon
  • jondonehoojondonehoo Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 T/C with the delux enterainment system. 6 disc DVD player, and 1st round of navigation, and such. The other day the entire system will not power up. Nothing on the flat screen, nothing on the display screen, no radio, no TV and nothing.

    My family and I actually have to talk with one another now... (The iphones fix that sometimes) but any ideas on what is going on? Would love a simple fuse or relay fix.

    Jon
  • humvee1humvee1 Member Posts: 1

    Hallo outinthewoods, I got same issue engine runs radio and blower goes on and off for 1 second, Mine 2006 Caravan ECM located in the front driver side wheel well, witch wire you cut it ??? there 4 plugs going to ECM all colored , green, white,brown, and black , black has yellow wire I cut it and wouldn"t start, green has bunch of mixed yellow wires like : yellow green stripe, orange , black etc. Help me out witch one to cut , cause car sitting for a week now no use.Any body has more suggestions I will listen, I don't know why they sell these crapy cars to population, just a shame.

  • knute65knute65 Member Posts: 3
    dvd4 said:

    My vehicle is a 1996 Chrysler Town and Country LXI 3.8L with 85,000 miles. My problem started three weeks ago. I was driving down the road my engine shutdown without a sputter or a cough. I put the transmission in neutral and it cranked right back up again without any trouble. Two weeks later, after driving it everyday, the same thing happens again. Then, three days after that it stalled again and has not started since but it does cranks over. I have put a tester on the fuel ejectors and they indicate they are firing during the duration of the cranking cycle. Spark plugs have fuel on them after cranking. I have pulled the new spark plugs and grounded them and only get one brief spark at the beginning of the crank cycle. Fuel pressure at the fuel rail is 49psi. I have change the crankshaft sensor and put in a new coil distributor pack without any change in spark plugs. I have check fuses and swap identical relays for Auto Shutdown Relay, but still would not start. I checked codes by turning the ignition switch: "on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing this in 5 seconds or less I get 12 and 55. 12 is for the battery being disconnected and 55 indicates end of check. I have a camshaft sensor but believe that is more related to fuel distribution and not spark plug firing, but I am not sure. If it also could affect the firing of my spark plugs please let me know. I have also fully charged my battery. My problem seems to be in the fact that my spark plugs only fires once briefly and I do not know why. I hope it is not the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and if it is, why does it give me codes 12 and 55. I could would appreciate anyone assistance so I do not keep throwing money at parts I do not need.
    Thanks in Advance,
    DVD4

    My brother changed the camshaft sensor on my 1997 van. it starts all the time now. he says the pressure on the sensor when you tighten it down is criticle. You have to have all the way down. This was two years ago. Hope you found a answer
  • knute65knute65 Member Posts: 3
    itnoj said:

    I have been having a similar problem with our 97 GC SPORT.
    The instrument cluster will just go dead van continues to run okay it just has no readout speed,temp,rpm, etc. Will try your suggestion.
    Thx

    Have you found an answer? I am going to try and see if the ground is alright behind the inst cluster. At the wiring connection.
  • knute65knute65 Member Posts: 3
    allendie said:

    Gages sometimes act up or go dead, door locks operate themselves, in worst case car refuses to start and relays start clicking until battery finally dies (if you don't disconnect it to reset the computer)? My 1997 Caravan had this problem. Several forums discuss it, one had explicit instructions with pictures on how to fix. Remove plastic cowling from dash (Haynes manual useful). Unplug and remove gage cluster. Unscrew circuit board and flip over. Where wiring harness plugs into gage cluster, see if ground pin all the way at the end has a circular crack in the solder. If it does, resolder it. This seems to have cured my electrical problems for now.

    This has happened in the last couple days to my wifes car. (1997 caravan) I will try your suggestion.
    knute65 said:

    itnoj said:

    I have been having a similar problem with our 97 GC SPORT.
    The instrument cluster will just go dead van continues to run okay it just has no readout speed,temp,rpm, etc. Will try your suggestion.
    Thx

    Have you found an answer? I am going to try and see if the ground is alright behind the inst cluster. At the wiring connection.
    I got the guages back buy hitting the side of the steering wheel LOL! Or the plastic over the guages LOL!
  • JeanineodellJeanineodell Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2010 town and country touring. We have had major problems with this van since buying it 2 years ago. Starting with headlights intermittently working. Bought a rebuilt TIPM about two months ago and it seemed to be fixed. On thanksgiving, the transmission went out, got that rebuilt and a week later the van won’t start. Battery is fine, new starter. At a loss. While working on it, wipers started going off, rear tailgate opened and closed on its own. Not really sure what to think. Anyone else have an idea?
  • Coz2215Coz2215 Member Posts: 2
    edited May 2020

    I have a 2010 town and country touring. We have had major problems with this van since buying it 2 years ago. Starting with headlights intermittently working. Bought a rebuilt TIPM about two months ago and it seemed to be fixed. On thanksgiving, the transmission went out, got that rebuilt and a week later the van won’t start. Battery is fine, new starter. At a loss. While working on it, wipers started going off, rear tailgate opened and closed on its own. Not really sure what to think. Anyone else have an idea?

    Cann issue I suspect. Usually when things start to operate on their own accord. It's usually a problem with the onboard computer network. Not necessarily the computer.
    On these new vehicles, there are no direct connections through a switch. When you push the window switch.
    You are sending an electronic signal through the Cann network to the window control module.
    Its a shared network across the whole vehicle. So when you send the signal for the driver's window. it goes to every controller in the vehicle. ( Or most depending one the design.)
    Its a simple signal. Just voltage/ No voltage in a specific pattern for each controller.

    Now let's suppose you have a defective controller somewhere. And it is shorting to ground intermittently. Or a mouse chew on the cann bus wires.
    It can short out the whole works. Or screw up a signal and fool the rear tailgate when you were just dimming the lights.

    You troubleshoot that by using an Oscilloscope hooked to the two cann buss wires in the OBD2 connector.
    Note the waveform or lack of one. If you have a standard waveform. Your computer is working.
    Its complicated but you troubleshoot it just like any other signal cable.
    There are You Tubes on it. If you take it in. make sure they know how to trouble shoot cann problems.

    Usually, if you have a bad signal. You find the main buss tree. Start unplugging branches one at a time until you see the signal return to normal. WALA!! That's the defective branch. Grab your diagram. Whats it feed?
    Troubleshoot those controllers and wiring until you find the defective wire or controler.



  • KSR70KSR70 Member Posts: 2
    Have a 2005 T&C Touring. Bought it used, up until last night had been a great vehicle. Instrument cluster is not working. All the gauges have stopped. No speedometer, tach, fuel gauge, temp gauge. No warning lights, but have turn signals. It stopped once before, but after sitting for a while, it started working fine again. Have checked relays and fuses, cannot find anything off. Anyone else have this problem? Is so, how was it resolved? Thank you in advance.
  • KSR70KSR70 Member Posts: 2
    Update. Just got back from taking my daughter to the store, on the way there everything started working normally. Speedometer, tach, fuel gauge, and temp gauge. All working normal. Any info as to what could be the problem would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.
  • TrippinonitTrippinonit Member Posts: 1
    My 2012 caravan did the same thing. After many trips to the dealer, they replaced the dash wiring harness as well as the cruise control in the steering wheel. This is what finally fixed it.
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