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Comments
I think 7500 miles is to long to wait for a change in the break in period.
After that, I go every 7,000 miles for oil changes and to rotate the tires.
3k oil changes today are a gimmick to get you in the door by the quick lube joints, check the owners manual, and unless you live in the desert, drive less than 5 miles or tow, you don't need to follow the severe duty list. If you do a lot of highway driving, then the change interval can be extended, the oil is at a consistent temperature, the engine runs at a consistent fuel/air ratio, so less blowby to get into the crankcase, and less carbon buildup. City driving, stick to the recommended change interval as long as you drive long enough to have the engine at operating temperature for at least 30 minutes to burn off any moisture. Use a good name brand oil, the additive packages in these oils are designed to last a long time, it is the additives that break down over time, not the oil. Once the additives break down, then the oil loses its ability to carry off contaminates to get filtered, some of the additives are binders that bind with carbon, and other byproducts of combustion so that they can be filtered out, and some additives also contain small amounts of ZINC and other minerals to replace those lost by engine parts due to friction. Synthetic motor oil uses higher amounts of additives and the nature of the synthetic oil makes it easier to carry off the contaminates to the filter. A good filter should filter down to at least 10 microns or less, preferably down to 5 microns. Anything less can cause the filter to clog up and go to bypass which is just as bad as not having a filter at all. If you were to find a 1 micron oil filter you will find that it is huge, and thats to get some life out of it.
Napa WIX filters are some of the best filters around, so if you do the change yourself, going to Napa for a filter will give you a good peace of mind knowing your engine is protected.
Changing the oil early on a new car, unless stated in your manual is not needed anymore, and is a waste of oil, time and money. Do it at the recommended interval, and have the first one done by the selling dealer at the recommended interval, the rest you can do yourself, or else where, this way you have a record that it was changed at least once by the dealer if there is a warranty issue. Keep your receipts for the oil and filters, and you should not have any issues if something does happen. I have driven a lot of cars, and gone many miles over recommended intervals and have never had an oil related failure. I had a car I put a new engine in, changed the oil whenever I felt it needed it, sometimes with 15K on it, and after 300K miles on it, put it in another car that had a bad engine, and needed to swap the intake and pan. The engine was clean inside, and showed very little wear, I plastigauged the bearings to see how much wear it had, and they were well within specs. I used Castrol GTX every time with Napa filters.
I also have a 1999 F350 Powerstroke Diesel that has 130K on it, I use Shell Rotella T OIl, and have gone 9500 miles between changes, having a Blackstone report done. Every report came back saying there was still life left in the oil and a change wasn't needed at the time. Recommended change on this engine is 5000 miles. The engine itself can run up to $10,000 to replace, and yet I have no problems with extended oil intervals due to the reports I get on the oil quality.
Blackstone Labs
I thought that light only comes on if there's a fault or you turn off the traction control. I'll have to check the manual again.
If the light comes on in dry conditions, or stays on, that's a different matter.
It is very hard to judge the distance when i am parking.
When i pull into a parking space with a Concrete Curb i am afraid i will hit the curb & hurt the front end which is very low.
Does anybody else have this problem & what do you do to judge the distance ?
I never had this problem with any other car i have owned.
I have never heard of any other car/truck/SUV on the market with this type of set-up, nor can I possibly see the benefits to this, especially when you can't even see the switch.
Other radio controls on the wheel are on the top right.
I just bought a Lincoln MKZ with all radio controls on 'top'. The Acadia volume controls are much better as under wheel toggles.
When I bought my '04 Mazda6, I was satisfied with the mouldings, hoping that they'd add some protection from other car doors in parking lots, and to keep the doors from getting scratched/dented. Now, 5 years later, I've got tiny dents on both front doors and scratches from parking lot mishaps, all around the mouldings. The mouldings themselves? Not a scratch... Seems they do a good job at protecting themselves while allowing the rest of the doors to be destroyed.
IMO, mouldings are an eyesore on most car door designs, do nothing to protect the doors themselves, and are a pain to wash/wax/detail around. I'm glad they're gone, and don't plan on buying another car with them again.
I am completing a refurbish of a 1995 Grand Marquis, mechanically the car is sound, the body needed a little work, so a fresh paint job and its an almost new car again. The side moldings cannot be left off, each rear door has a hole in it, right under the molding. I was planning to leave them off since they were beat up, replacing them is over $500 for 8 pieces. :mad: They really don't do a thing, all the doors needed to be sanded and filled to remove the dings. The drivers side got side swiped, so the moldings are scratched, but looks like I can repair and repaint them.
-Brian
I've had this car into the dealer seven times since new for two recalls and other issues. Good service BUT would not really trust this car past 36,000 miles and not going to buy an expensive extended warranty for miles after that.
This car may not be the keeper I planned for...as my past pattern is to take autos up to well over 100,000 miles of use. Too complex, too many issues so far.
Transmission shift points was a recall...to re-program. Check with dealer.
If no recall data, see about "technical service bulletin" to cover issues, even after out of warranty.
Dealers not always super eager to reveal TSB's I had a hard starting issue on an intermittant basis and advisor DID pull up a TSB only because he had done some reading about it on his own. Had he not known this, the issue would have continued unless the event was duplicated in the shop...hard to do when intermittant. It was an electrical interference malfunction that was quickly solved once cause and procedure was 'sourced' from FoMoCo documents.
Good luck.
Good engineering nod to the Ford workforce.
It only has 13,000 miles on it.
I already had the ACM unit replaced on the radio after 4 visits to the Dealership.
Next while in for an oil change the dealer told me i needed a left LED Parking light.
Which he ordered & when i went back to have it replaced he came out & told me now the Right one is not working properly & again he ordered it & said he would have it tomorrow.
Well after a week i called him & he said it was in,he never called me ,isn't that great service.
Want to buy a 2010 Mercury Milan ????????????????????????
I drive faster than the traffic for the most part but accelerate modestly to speed. I do not believe there are any significant changes to the I4 in the subsequent model years. My results are about 5 mpg over the EPA estimates and represent "normal" driving but with modest acceleration to speed and sparing use of the brakes, coasting to decelerate whenever possible. After two years I still consider it a new car and it feels like one.
I was in for service & the tech said i needed the right rear LED & he ordered it & when i came in to have it replaced they said now i also need the left rear LED which had to be ordered & i came back again.
This must be a problem with Mercury.
You can use this post to show them you are not the only one & they are defective.
Good luck.
I traded my 2011 Prius for the 2010 Mercury Milan Hybrid and I am so glad I did. Those &^*^ seats in the prius were killing my back. But I digress.
This car only has 8000 miles on it, so I want to make sure everything is working before the dealer warranty expires.
Here's the problem - maybe. And I say maybe, as maybe it is supposed to do this.
When I am driving with my lights on, I notice that the dashboard will go dim, then bright, then dim.
Does the dashboard have some auto sensing device that changes the display according to ambient light? I haven't seen that in the manual, so I'm thinking there is something go astray in the dashboard, and I would like to get it fixed.
Thanks for any help/comments.
Eddie