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Comments
Start here
http://www.answers.com/topic/magnuson-moss-warranty-act-1
Note that at the bottom of the page is a list of sites to go to which include the federal site.
File a complaint with the federal government.
Go to congress.org and on that first page you will see a box for your zip code. Enter your zip code.
Now you have the list of Senators, the Representative and the presidential contacts.
Use the email, fax but not the letter because letters must undergo Anthrax exams.
You can use the congress.org personnel who will hand carry a letter to the person you want to contact.
You will also note that here is a local button on the page showing the DC contacts.
Get you local contact numbers and repeat above.
ALSO
Do this by the numbers to insure that you will get proper results.
How Do I Claim a Lemon Law Refund?
Generally, there are three steps to follow if you wish to claim a Lemon Law refund.
1. If you believe you are entitled to a refund or replacement for your vehicle, you should notify the manufacturer by registered, overnight, or certified mail. Keep a copy of this notice for your personal records.
2. If the manufacturer does not resolve the problem within 10 days, you may request that the manufacturer replace the vehicle or refund the purchase price, minus a fee for your use of the vehicle.
3. If your request is refused, you may hire an attorney and file a lawsuit against the manufacturer. However, if the company offers a dispute resolution service, you must go through this process first.
Try to stay away from blood sucking leeches (aka attorneys) unless you have a very rare bird you know which is called "an Honest Attorney". You can (if you apply yourself) do a better job than most fat reared, lazy, worthless, lethargic, self serving, lying, cheating and stealing "attorneys". I actually know two honest attorneys, but they are not cheap. The law is on your side, apply the law.
ABOVE ALL keep a dated, timed log of mileage driven, contacts made, letters written and all expenses incurred. I use a digital camera to document a lot of things, (think about it.) If you really want to tighten pucker strings, have the offending party sign the log page. Yup! I fight dirty.
If you want blood, you need to know exactly how to get it. The fed site also lists procedures.
A set of "iron teeth" helps
John
PS. Get a digital recorder. Some look like a pen, put another couple of pens in your pocket so that it looks normal. Record the conversations with service, and management.
PPS: Please tell the Senators and Representatives the all that PCA garbage does little to improve the pollution control, but adds a full days work to get it out of the way to get at the engine to service it.
PPPS. Ford and GM are getting out of the country to avoid paying decent wages.
Laws in all fifty states and the District of Columbia provide remedies to purchasers of defective new vehicles, often called lemons. These so-called lemon laws protect consumers from substantial defects occurring within a specified period after purchase, and provide that a manufacturer must either replace the lemon with a new, comparable car or refund the full purchase price.
Certain States have gone beyond the magnuson-moss-warranty-act
A very quick link to see what your States legislation is go to:
http://www.carlemon.com/
Click on your state
Warranty Info and battle ammo
magnuson-moss-warranty-act-1
http://autopedia.com/html/HotLinks_LemonMM2.html
Best site I have been able to find is:
http://www.autopedia.com/html/HotLinks_Lemon.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuson-Moss_Warranty_Act
A full discussion of warranties including Magnuson-Moss is at
http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/buspubs/warranty.shtm
Happy ammo hunting.
I would suggest having a copy of legislation to hand to "your" dealer.
He knows, but needs to know that YOU know and your done playing "parlor games".
John
:lemon:
Beyond Warranty?
If it is covered under a TSB, you have certain rights.
Under the Magnuson-Moss your problem may still be covered.
Be sure to check your States "lemon law". As stated before some States have put more "tooth" in their laws.
If the condition was reported and worked on under warranty, but the problem continues, you still may have "under warranty" rights.
For $200.00 I would surely take the time to find out if I could make Ford pay for their problem.
He who does not know his rights has none.
SUPERDUTY
For example heavily loaded, climbing hills.
As far as stop leaks are concerned:
The best I have found is Conklin Dike.
The Justice Brothers stop leak comes in a close second.
I actually fixed a "cracked block"* with Dike.
*Don't know that it was a cracked block, but that is what the customer claimed it was.
I did see that the radiator pressure did climb with #7 cylinder. (By pulling one bank of plugs, Throttle held wide open, ignition disconnected, cranking, watch gauge carefully.
If you don't see any pressure change, re-install that bank of plugs and go to the other.
With that you can zero in on a compression leak rather quickly.)
Following a treatment with Dike, the problem "disappeared" completely in a few days.
I am not a great fan of "mouse milk" fixes, but in certain situations they are called for.
John
On exactly the opposite side of the coin, we have a GM dealership reasonably close to here where even other dealers send their "What the over" problems to them. As a result, they continue to grow while other dealerships are having a "rough ride".
They find a way of covering many of the "that's out of warranty" problems under warranty. Even when they can't "get er done", their top tech is so good that he minimizes the cost by telling the service personnel how to get at the problem in the most efficient way and returns are all but nonexistent.
You would think that others could learn from their example, but it seems that few dealerships get the message.
Those who realize that "customer is king" don't have to spend a fortune on advertising because the word gets around quickly that there is actually a dealership which cares for it's customers.
John
SUPERDUTY
We are having a similar problem. We have a 95 Ford F350 diesel and it quit running every once in awhile. Now it stopped running and it keeps blowing a 30 amp fuse. It is eating the fuses up.
What is it exactly doing when you try to start the truck??
Is it turning over, turning over slow, only clicking??
Everyone needs to note that in the note section of their owners manual.
With the super cold snap we just had, I had a vehicle which started and ran perfectly.
I parked at the site I was working and the wind chill was 41 degrees below zero.
Got in to start it, cranked over nicely, but NO GO.
Got ride home, and waited for less deadly weather.
Tried to start the dead vehicle one more time (now +14 degrees).
I was sure that when the vehicle failed to start that I was not hearing the fuel pump. I turn on the ignition and listen carefully, especially in cold weather. Real good idea to know the sounds of the system when all is well, that way when things get strange, your ears just might point you in the right direction. Fuse was good, relay seemed good. I could hear the relay click.
Problem?
The severe cold caused the wiring harness to shrink and that partially opened the connector in the harness which ran to the fuel pump.
Repositioned the harness, checked to see that none of the contacts in the connector had pulled back.
One was, corrected that. Problem seems to be solved.
Ain't that a pip.
John
The dealer is unable to fix this problem, can someone help with a solution.
Thank you all!!
Not fun, but doable.
Are you in the habit of hanging "20 pounds" of keys on your key ring?
A heavy batch of keys is your ignition switch's worst enemy.
2 or 3 keys is a much better idea.
Wouldnt this occur hot or cold if it was the switch?
I only have the one key on the ring
Again THANK YOU for your time
My 1990 International 7.3L Diesel (Ford F-350 box truck, 190K) just started making a noise that seems to be coming from the engine. The truck is running a little rough at idle and the noise seems to come and go. While driving it gets louder during acceleration (not extremely loud and slight power loss) after getting up to speed the truck runs and sounds fine. No overheating. No oil in water or water in oil. Oil pressure fine. The only other thing is there seems to be a stronger exhaust smell. Exhaust pipe and manifold look fine, no signs of leeks. No hard starting.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Also can anyone recommend a diesel mechanic in the Fort Pierce, Florida area.
Thanks
Jim
First and foremost, for your's and everyone else's safety on the road: you want the vehicle to steer and stop evenly and straight. If you only replace one side, you could find that the new side now spins freely, but the other old side spins slower by comparison due to wear, etc., and as a result your truck is pulling to one side or the other. Could make driving a challenge......
Second, if one side failed, the other usually isn't far behind.
70K miles isn't unheard of. Have the bearings ever been cleaned and repacked with grease? It's usually done when the brakes are serviced. If they weren't, then dust and moisture contamination in the grease could've increased bearing wear leading to a failure.
Thanks
todd
Ive always been a Chevy man and i have since been converted to a Ford man by owning this truck. It now has about 250,000 miles on it and i tow a 12,000lb. mini excavator around 2 to 3 times per week. I drive it pretty hard, but not hard enough to break it, this is a tough truck. I change the oil at least every 5000, air filter every 2 oil changes. If someone could give me an idea on at least where to start it would be appreciated.
DO you have any information about this problem.
Thank you Very much
Thanks
Jim
Truck #1 - 2004 F450 6.0 Diesel - Burned up the engine at 150,000 miles when the EGR system dumped coolant and the engine overheated suddenly. Replaced the engine with a re-built engine - we have now lost the injectors in the re-built engine after less than 5,000 miles. Replaced injectors in the original
engine three times while it was still under warranty. Total repair bill to date $10,000.00 - looking at $4,000.00 more for injectors.
Truck #1 - 2005 F450 6.0 Diesel - Starting having problems at 110,000 miles. Three trips to the shop so far, including injector replacement and EGR problems - current mileage is 125,000. $9,000 in repair bills to date - for a truck that the local Ford dealership will give me $15,000 trade in value for.
When pressed, my local Ford fleet salesperson admitted that "the 6.0 engine is the worst mistake Ford has made since the Edsel".
Bottom line - sell or trade in your 6.0 diesels before the repair bills start and you have to spend more in repairs than the truck is worth. Good luck -
good luck and hang on to your wallet that trans ain`t cheap