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Ford F-Series Powerstroke Diesel Problems

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Comments

  • justasillygirljustasillygirl Member Posts: 5
    I don't know much about trucks/cars other than you put fuel in and go. However, I do know that I own a piece of junk. I own a '06 F 250 6.0 with 56,000 miles, and since day one I have had nothing but problems with it. Mind you I travel a lot of highway miles and have never pulled anything heavier than a trailer full of furniture when I moved. When it was 6 months old, it had blown O Rings (?) and was pouring white smoke out of the exhaust and dripping a watery liquid. Now for the 5th time, I have it a the Ford Service Station for the same problem. Each time, with a new diagnosis for the same problem, never fixing it. The problem: Losing power (like when the fuel is restricted when you hit 90mph) it cuts out occasionally no matter the speed, High pitched whistle (like a vacuum leak - not the turbo) at any given speed, Loosing antifreeze - every time I stop I have to put a 1/2 gallon of coolant in even though it has never over heated before. Just today (Saturday) after getting my truck back from Ford on Tuesday (they had it for over 2 weeks this time), while on the freeway, my check temp light came on, it was all the way on red. I exited the interstate and pulled into a 10 minute oil change and had the levels checked. I of course was out of coolant again, but when the guy went under the truck he found antifreeze and pink transmission fluid on the ground and fresh golden oil sprayed all over under my truck. The coolant doesn't leak out when sitting still or idling, it blows out while driving though so I can't see the leak. My fluid levels on transmission and oil were both good though. What is going on and why can't someone figure out the problem? I have had both batteries replaced, both fuel filters replaced, the coolant reservoir replaced, a radiator nipple replaced, the EGR cooler replaced...the list continues. Oh, and almost everything they have replaced was not covered under my bumper to bumper extended 100,000 mile warranty, nice huh?
  • cowboy9cowboy9 Member Posts: 161
    Hey Sillygirl,

    Have you taken it too a different Ford shop or always the same shop to have them look at it ? Of course you know what I am going to say if you are taking it to the same shop over and over again. Also you may want to be talking to a Lawyer about this and check into the Lemon Law for ya. Ford has bought back a lot fo the 6.0L trucks, true most of them where the 03 and 04 Models but the Lemon Law is for any Vehicle. They actually bought back a truck of a guy I used to know.
    One thing they may have over looked is the Head Gasket, you can check your Exhaust. If there is any Water at anytime coming out of it that is not a good sign at all. There was a guy just a couple of weeks ago it seems that had posted getting water out of his Exhaust and had told him to get it in and checked out for the Head Gasket but have not heard back to see if he found anything out. If you can not see any water coming out of the Exhaust simply stand a peice of Plywood or something like that about 3 or 4 feet from the end of your Exhaust and Riv it up high to see if it throws anything out.

    Tony
  • sanddevil23sanddevil23 Member Posts: 1
    I have read through a lot of posts and I cant figure out the issue. I have a 1999 7.3 power stroke that when I push the gas pedal to the floor the Engine light will click on and then it acts as if I don't have any power or the best way to explain it is no turbo; it drags but its not the turbo all gages are reading fine. Soon as I turn the truck off it resets and works perfect but as long as I am driving it before resetting I don't have that much power. They ran diagnostics at a dealership, two different dealerships in fact and no codes were showing up or issues at all. The only thing they could tell me that it may be the high pressure oil pump that delivers the oil to the injectors but they weren't sure that was the problem and second, its going to cost $1000 to have that changed and if that's not the issue, I am not going to be too happy... Any ideas or thoughts on what this could be?
  • justasillygirljustasillygirl Member Posts: 5
    Hey Cowboy,

    Thanks for the advice. Actually, it has been to 3 different Dealers for a total of 6 times now. After reading a lot of the posts on this site, I raised a little hell when I took it back into the shop. Lo and behold...two hours later I received a phone call from the manager of the dealership "Bubba" saying "you were right, I apologize, it was a blown head gasket." However, apparently they can't just fix it, they have to get approval from Ford. Well, I am still without a vehicle and in a rental for what looks to be another 2 weeks.
    The dealership is trying to get me to trade in my truck "as is" and buy a new '08. Why, so the can fix it and sell it to someone else as "almost new" or a "demo" or whatever scam they like to pull on people like me?? I said "Bite me! Fix my truck and give it back, that's all I ask." At least if I trade it in it won't have to be pulled there and I might can get a little more out of than just "as is".
    By the way, I owned an '03 F250 so when I bought an '06 they gave me $5,000 off for being "A Return Customer even with all of the problems with the '03s". I was kind of confused by this because I never had any problems with it...but now I understand the comment. As far as a lawyer goes...to much trouble for what, a new truck? That may take forever to even get to that point and I am just ready to be done with this all. I'll just trade up when I get mine out of the shop, I don't wan't something for nothing. "Buyer beware" it is a vehicle, it has moving parts, eventually it is going to break (unexpextedly to me it was sooner than later, but what are ya gonna do). Too many people in this country sue over nothing, that's why we honest people have go through such hassle and jump through hoops now to get stuff fixed...even warranty work??!! Warranty work should be a "no brainer" It's broke and under warranty, no problem we'll fix it."

    (Sorry, didn't mean to get preachy...I just think most lawsuits are stupid like the "Caution - Contents are HOT" they have to stamp on Coffee cup lids now.)

    Thanks Again
  • parranafishparranafish Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 Ford F-350 (7.2 Diesel). When I try to start it, the warm up plug light on the dash won't go out and the truck wont fire. This happens most of the time. One time I heard a clicking noise in the the fuse panel when I turned the key on.
  • cowboy9cowboy9 Member Posts: 161
    Hey Girl,
    I didn't mean run out and hire a Lawyer but just call a couple to check on the Lemon laws of your state, most will talk to you over the phone and tell you up front wheather or not if you have a case, is it worth it? Well they have to give you full retail price for you truck towards a new one even if you got your truck 10K under said Retail price in Colorado. Is this a Federal Standard on Lemon laws I have no clue as I am not a Lawyer. It's your world I am just offering a little help as I had people go through the same problem and Ford bought there trucks back.
  • mediacommediacom Member Posts: 3
    After reading several posts on this site I thought I would share my experience.

    I don't own one but i drive a 2003 F450 Super Duty Bucket Truck at my job.
    A couple of months ago I was driving down the road and the truck just died. Now, unlike some of the posts I have read on here, it never would start again. To the Ford Dealer we go. This is what their breakdown of work done states:

    1) Vehicle has no IPC pressure. Disassembled and ran leak test on both fuel rails. No Leaks.

    2) Found ICP sensor faulty and IRP valve faulty as well. Replaced ICP and IRP. Upon recheck still has no pressure.

    3) Found bad pump (Shorted by struck valve). Replaced pump.

    4) Upon reassembly, fuel injector on cylinder 7 will not stay up. Replaced fuel injector.

    So, $3731.00 back on the road and running fine. Still has some trouble starting in the morning. Didn't have that problem before. Also has an oil leak that it didn't have before.

    You've got to remember this is a work truck with 150,000 miles on it. It runs most of the day with out shutting down. I would say its been put though some pretty rough stuff. But, that's what these trucks are built to do I suppose.

    Anyway, hope anyone with starting problems finds this useful.

    Oh, I forgot to mention one other thing. First Ford Dealer we took the truck to couldn't figure it out. Second one could. The first one after having it for a week called and told us the repair could not be approved through GE Fleet. I called GE personally and found this to be false. Second dealer had no "problems" with the approval. Maybe some dealerships are just better than or more experienced with working on these vehicles
  • jhbutlerjhbutler Member Posts: 4
    i have an 06 6.0 same problem. dropped fuel tank,a big mess. the coating inside the tank is comming off and plugging the pickup screen. cleaned and got all the paint or whatever it is out of the tank, problem solved. dealers and detroit tried to tell me it was because of using biodiesel.. itold them bull #$@# i dont use any thing but ultra low sulfer fuel,, the would not make it good, seems everything isp to the owner to correct fords mistakes.
  • mediacommediacom Member Posts: 3
    I figured out the hard starting problem I've been having in the morning. I have to plug in the block heater. Sounds crazy because it is the middle of summer and it hasn't gotten below 60 degrees in the night time. But, that has solved the problem or at least it doesn't take 20 mins. to get it started in the morning. Fires right up.

    Just wondering if this is not pointing to a bigger problem that hasn't shown itself?
  • gerlad1gerlad1 Member Posts: 22
    Hi, I live in sunny south Texas and most days just jump into my 6.0 liter and hit the starter switch--no need to wait for the glow plug light to go out and engine cranks right up.
    In winter,, with cold nights down into the 50s (hehe) I do wait a bit for the glow plug light to go out--but will crank anyway if I don't wait for the light to go out.
    So, I would suggest in your situation (since I don't have to use the glow plug to start up in over 60 temp) that your glow plug system is not functioning if you have to use the block heater.
    Gerald
  • cowboy9cowboy9 Member Posts: 161
    Gerald,

    Just a guess but I am beting you don't keep Vehicles long do you. I would be shocked if you keep your truck longer than 150K miles. I have owned Diesels and ran Diesel Equipment all my life and to not let the Glow Plugs do there job is just plain nuts, the whole purpose is to Heat the Heads and although you may think 60 and 70 degree's is warm enough the motor is actually a lot hotter than that when at normal running temp's. I know what I just said was a waste of my time.

    Now I am not sure who you was writing too but it sounds like whoever you was writing too it's your Glow Plug Relay which sits up on top the motor and looks like a the old Starter Relay that sits on the Right Fender Well.
  • gerlad1gerlad1 Member Posts: 22
    Hi Cowboy,
    Hmmmm, I do have 120,000 miles on my 04 F250 6.0 and am not a professional mechanic BUT have spent many an hour under the hood and under trucks and cars.
    It is my understanding, that the small "spark plug" size glow plugs are in the cylinders to ignite the fuel/air mixture until there is enough residual heat in the block/heads to keep the combustion process going. The heat of compression with the proper engine crank speed appears to me to need help in starting the ignition process in diesels,, thus the glow plug.
    I don't want to start a debate, but it appears to me that the glow plug does not have enough energy to warm up anything (especially not the heads) except the volume of air surrounding it.
    I must admit, my garage temp this time of the year is probably 80+ degrees and I do normally look at my glow plug light before I try to start the engine and the time for a "cold engine" light to go off in my garage is approximately 1-2 seconds (after an overnight sit in my garage).
    I was responding to the guy who said the only way his engine would start up was hooking up the block heater--which I have never had to use.
    I have had my truck in freezing weather in Colorado elk hunting and it did take about 30 seconds for the glow light to go off--and I did wait for this before cranking.
    I have never read/heard that the glow plug function is to heat up the cylinder heads. Are you sure about this?
    Regards, Gerald
  • mediacommediacom Member Posts: 3
    Thanks Gerald and Cowboy. Hadn't even thought of the glow plugs not working properly. Light was coming on and staying on for a few seconds so I assumed they were working properly. That's what I get for thinking. Good thing thats not what I get paid for huh. :)

    Anyway, thanks
  • ponygirlh9ponygirlh9 Member Posts: 1
    Hello all, i am at my witts end, i have owned this truck for about 2 yrs now, have always started right up, well i bought a 99-250 and let dually set up about 2 months now it will not start, turns over, getting fuel , but no compression to fire off, I had one fellow tell me to put oil in engione because the rings have dried up, and they will not seal, so no compression. How true is this ? Any real help would be great. There are no dependable mechanics where i live so husband is trying to fix on his own, HELP ! Cindi Carter mississippi
  • paulpe99paulpe99 Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2003 (May) F250 Super Duty, 4x4, 6.0l diesel. The fan clutch was replaced in June 2007. In the last 13 months I haven't heard the usual, loud howl from the fan when temperatures rise. I now have a Palm PDA monitoring all my temps and my oil has been upto 252 degrees while towing! When is that fan supposed to kick into high gear? This fan clutch replacement was done by a Ford dealer. Any help would be appreciated.
  • cowboy9cowboy9 Member Posts: 161
    Hey Pony,

    Sorry but kind of lost in your email, how long was the motor sitting for ? And let me get this right you are putting a motor out of a 99 into the 97 right ? I it may be the Computer not work with it, I know they are pretty much the same motor but they are Different.

    Tony
  • cowboy9cowboy9 Member Posts: 161
    Hey Paul,

    I don't mess with a lot of the 6.0L trucks as they are totally a piece of junk but what is the Red Line Temp for the Oil ? Yes I love that sound the Fan makes too but I don't hear mine anymore because of the Smoke Stack I have coming out of the bed of the truck now, lol.

    Tony
  • justasillygirljustasillygirl Member Posts: 5
    Thanks Cowboy,

    I will look into it. I just got it back today. They had it a total of 5 weeks, I had it a total of 3 days during that time. I am going to go trade it in in Texas where I bought it but before I do, I will call a couple of lawyers and see what they say my options are.
    Ford called me about a week or so ago and said that they had to special order a part (that's why it took so long to fix my truck). They said that when they opened it up to replace the head gaskets they saw that the part (whatever it was) had been broken since the factory (which is why it never did run correctly) and I have had problems with it since day one.
  • paulpe99paulpe99 Member Posts: 6
    tony,
    i thought the maximum continuous operating oil temp was 240 deg.
  • hypermax7hypermax7 Member Posts: 2
    i have a 2003 ford 6.0 with a hypermax mach 7 box but there is a miss when under acceleration when the truck is hot or cold. i have had it at ford twice this month and they said it was the mass air censor both times. but its doing it still i ask them them and the tech said it wasnt an injector any1 have any idea on what the problem is
  • kubikubi Member Posts: 1
    Have a 2000 Ford diezel 7.3. 380,000 kl On going problem. Sometimes after driving-parked for a few minutes- turn key and will not even crank over. When you first stop will crank over-let it set for a few minutes -engine compartment warms up-will not crank over. Dash lights on and driving lights.When you try and crank light go dimm. Seems to do it when it is hot. Open hood -let cool down for 20 minutes and will crank over and start up. Have had to Ford dealer-replaced batteries-IDM box-Alternator -camshaft sensor-and rebuilt starter. One Ford teck said put new starter not rebuilt. Lost faith in local dealership. Can anyone help.Cold ones are on me if so. Thanks
  • cowboy9cowboy9 Member Posts: 161
    Hey Paul,

    I honestly don't know what the Oil Temp is suppose to be, never had that one come up but I will check into it tomorrow and email you back.

    Tony
  • rgnomergnome Member Posts: 2
  • rgnomergnome Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1995 Ford F250 with a 7.3L. Had to replace a push rod in number one cylinder. Now I can't get it to start. Is there any way the trouble shoot the sensors in the system. It is acting like there is no fuel getting to the cylinders. I know there is fuel in the lines I have found a few leaks.
  • abouchabouch Member Posts: 6
    It sounds like we are having the same problem.
    The real deal is that the engine was poorly designed example: 7.3L engines have 18 head bolts and I believe the 6.0l has 10 so now we have an engine thats smaller and has been hot rodded from the factory to produce more power.

    More compression, more boost and less head bolts = poor combination causing poor results, all the things that have been replaced are secondary to the real problem (pressure building up in the cooling system) causing EGR Cooler failure.

    There is even Technical Bulletins that end with replacing the head gaskets however It is my opinion that the problem will re-occur and when warranty runs out you will pay for this out of pocket.

    If you would like to converse more I am considering a Law Suit against Ford I have a 2006 F-250 6.0L with 55,000 miles and it is at the dealer right now and they tell me it needs a coolant tank.

    Please pass this on, respond, get the word out, if I get enough response I will launch a web.

    Anthony
  • abouchabouch Member Posts: 6
    If you buy another be aware that the 6.4L is based on the 6.0L it has even more power so it could have more problems.

    Please keep me posted.

    Thanks,

    Anthony
  • hypermax7hypermax7 Member Posts: 2
    well i have talked 2 the same tech from ford and he said that fuel pumps have been going bad due 2 the new fuel and he thinks thats my problem he told me 2 put a fuel presure gage on and see if the psi is jumping between 30 and 70
  • gotsand125gotsand125 Member Posts: 2
    i was thinking about buying a 2005 ford f350 diesel with the 6.0 it has only 28,000 miles and i was wondering if anyone has had any major problems with this perticular engine.

    Nick
  • abouchabouch Member Posts: 6
    The real deal is that the engine was poorly designed example: 7.3L engines have 18 head bolts and the 6.0L and 6.4L engines have 10 so now we have an engine thats smaller and has been hot rodded from the factory to produce more power.

    International should know better its a pretty dramatic difference when you look at previous engine designs and see three or four bolts on both sides of the cylinder bore then look at the 6 liter engine and see two, just not enough clamping power

    More compression, more boost and less head bolts = poor combination causing poor results, .

    There is even Technical Bulletins that end with replacing the head gaskets however It is my opinion that the problem will re-occur and when warranty runs out you will pay for this out of pocket.

    If you would like to converse more I am considering a Law Suit against Ford I have a 2006 F-250 6.0L with 55,000 miles and it is at the dealer right now.

    Please pass this on, respond, get the word out, if I get enough response I will launch a web site.

    Anthony
  • bassassassinbassassassin Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2004 f250 the other day i was driving up a hill at 55. when i hit the gas pedal my truck started missing and pouring out black smoke. there was also a sound coming from the engine that sounded like a tire rubbing a wheel well. i was thinking it could be an injector but not sure can anyone help
  • cowboy9cowboy9 Member Posts: 161
    Hey Nick,

    There are a very few that didn't have any problems with the 6.0L motor, and I do mean very few so my advice to you is run very fast the other way from it and save your self the headache. If you really want a Diesel and want a newer one then look for a 03 that still had the 7.3L which is kind of hard or a good 02, there is actually a lot of them out there as most yuppies that bought them only got them and never actually used them, most beds are cleaner then the inside of my truck and not even a scratch in them. Anyway good luck in your search and what you are looking for.

    Tony
  • gotsand125gotsand125 Member Posts: 2
    Hey Tony,

    thanks for the advice.

    Nick
  • kscottrosekscottrose Member Posts: 4
    I bought a 1996 F250. clean truck well maintained, no leaks, 270,000 miles, has a problem at startup. it starts to gallop and wont idle, if I acelerate slowly up to about 1800 rpm for 15 seconds or so it will smooth out at idle and run normal. acelerating the pedal slowley it does nothing for about the 1st inch then jumps up to 1800 - 2000 rpm, so it does not acelerate smoothley. does any one know what could be causing this problem? and what I need to do to troubleshoot and fix. sincerly. scott... kscottrose@hotmail.com
  • parranafishparranafish Member Posts: 3
    I have solved my problem with a lot of expense. Seems the first owner of my truck installed a Superchip into the ECM. The chip went bad and caused the problems. The Ford mechanic pulled it out and the truck runs ok. I do notice a loss of power and mileage that the chip was providing.

    Anyway, pull the chip before you buy an expensive ECM. The dealer tried to charge me a restocking fee for the ECM they ordered but I wouldn't stand for it and they backed down.

    Hope this post helps someone.

    PS: Anyone using a Superchip???? I found them on the internet and might replace the bad one.
  • cowboy9cowboy9 Member Posts: 161
    lol, You must have the pre 99 model year. I forgot all about those. I guy I used to know had that same problem. He had Spent like 400 plus dollars on the chip and he kept having it do that same thing. It was about 2 or 3 years later when they came out with the Programmer and did away with the Chip. I never bought the chip but have bought 3 Programmers for my trucks and they work great. This 01 I have now had that Dilobo or what ever kind of Chip in it when I got the truck and I pulled it out and used the Programmer but not quick enough as the chip messed up the system and has had to have some work done on it.

    Tony
  • justasillygirljustasillygirl Member Posts: 5
    I think when I trade in I am going to just get a King Ranch 150 until Ford can figure out the problems. Besides, they are practically giving away the 150's right now. If you are considering a class action suit and think we might have a leg to stand on, and can get someone to take the case against Ford...I am all for it and just tell me where to sign up.
    Tell me how to get the word out and I will help out in any way I can. I know I am just a silly girl, but there are plenty of us out there that are getting screwed over by Ford and don't know any better. Fortunately, I happened upon this website and all of ya'lls help and suggestions. If nothing else, I am always up for a good underdog battle against the corporate giants with fat pockets that will try to wait and starve the little guys out. I have nothing but free time on my hands and love to do research (including legal loopholes) I am a stickler for tedious details that most people overlook.
  • bajohnson1bajohnson1 Member Posts: 1
    I am looking at purchasing an '05 and was looking for any experiences like yours that would be helpful. It appears that experience is all over the place. Are you recommending not purchasing? I want this to be a buy and hold vehicle.

    Thanks!

    Brian Johnson
    bajohnson1@gmail.com
  • abouchabouch Member Posts: 6
    Brian,

    Ford buyers beware 6.0L a defective engine.

    Please read below it is a prior posting, I would like to add that I have talked with other people that have had their EGR Cooler, Fan Clutch, Coolant Tank and Cap, and Head Gaskets in that order in my case it also needed a cylinder head.

    What does Cyl. Head on National backorder tell you?

    Others I have spoke with have had their vehicle bought back by Ford, they are limited in what they will share beyond the fence post because Ford makes them sign a non disclosure agreement as part of the buyback.
    How do you spell "COVERUP" ?

    When you go to the Dealer for warranty they act like your the only one having a problem they even told me they couldn't find anything wrong this last visit I had to tell them I wasn't going to take the truck till it was fixed.
    I can assure you this is the big deal that has knocked Ford out of the #1 Truck slot.

    "Ford’s claims that Super Duty pickups with the 6.0L diesel could not be repaired. The auto maker said it had to buy back the trucks from customers."
    See article http://wardsauto.com/ar/ford_diesel_navistar/

    Anthony
    _________________________________________________________________

    Previously Posted
    The real deal is that the engine was poorly designed example: 7.3L engines have 18 head bolts and I believe the 6.0l has 10 so now we have an engine thats smaller and has been hot rodded from the factory to produce more power.

    More compression, more boost and less head bolts = poor combination causing poor results, all the things that have been replaced are secondary to the real problem (pressure building up in the cooling system) causing EGR Cooler failure.

    There are even Technical Bulletins that end with replacing the head gaskets however It is my opinion that the problem will re-occur and when warranty runs out you will pay for this out of pocket.

    If you would like to converse more I am considering a Law Suit against Ford I have a 2006 F-250 6.0L with 55,000 miles and it is at the dealer right now and they tell me it needs a coolant tank.

    Please pass this on, respond, get the word out, if I get enough response I will launch a web.
    ________________________________________________________________

    Please Copy Share and Post freely.
  • abouchabouch Member Posts: 6
    justasillygirl,

    I am in California flew in friday from Wyoming in to pick my truck and it is still not ready

    I will send you an email address at the end of the week when I get back to Wyoming don't buy yet.

    Anthony
  • mckenzie101mckenzie101 Member Posts: 12
    I am running a hot wire straight from the battery to my fuel pump to get power. I have a toggle switch to turn it on & off. I'm tired of this problem. Has anyone experienced power loss to your fuel pump? If so, what can I do to correct this problem? :confuse:
  • ricky16ricky16 Member Posts: 10
    I HAVE A 1995 7.3 IN A 450 FORD,IT HAS STARTED SMOKING WHEN FIRST START IT.IT SMOKES A LOT AND MISSES FOR ABOUT 5 SEACENTS,AND CLEARS UP AND WILL NOT DO IT AGEAN UNTIL IT COOLS OF FOR,10 TO 15 HRS.
  • madbattmadbatt Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 F350 6 litre diesel. I run on WVO. So far I can't complain about it except for the expensive fuel filters. My first question is, the external transmisson filter when should it first be changed and at how many miles after? The second is, inside the primary filter there is a fuel valve that the filter snaps into. How often should that be changed to maintain good fuel flow?
  • kyhorsemankyhorseman Member Posts: 3
    Where to begin. I have not had many problems with my 1999 Ford F350 7.3 lt Powerstroke Diesel until last week. It seems it keeps shutting off. Almost like it is not getting fuel after the same dsitance home from work. (approx. 20 Minutes) If I let it sit for an hour. I will then be able to use it again and run normal for another 20 minute drive.
    I have flushed the radiator and entire water coolant system. I have also replaced the fuel filter. This is really bugging me, because I do not have a lot of money nor the time to take it to the shop. Any suggestions on what my be the problem?

    I am still driving it each day, my drive time is under 15 minutes on normal commute, unless traffic trouble. Then I will have to let it sit froa few minutes and then it will work for a few miles, then act up again. It is quite frustrating. As I am not to engine savy. Any suggestions? I have heard when a fuel pump goes out, it normally just quits completely. Someone said the truck has two fuel pumps. Does this sound like a problem from oneof them? I am lost, so any help will be greatly appreciated!

    Thanks,
    Steve
  • cowboy9cowboy9 Member Posts: 161
    Hey Steve,
    Start with making sure you have no water in your Fuel, there is a Yellow Tab that you move to the left at the bottom of where your Fuel Filter is. It's on the Bottom left side of it, it may move to the Right, one way or the other, lol. Next normally if it's the Cam Sensor they usually won't keep running once they go out but maybe you have one that is acting up. Ford just had a Recall on all those from like 96 to 03 with 7.3L Motor, if you haven't had your's replace just take it to any Ford Dealer and they will run your Vin and Replace it for FREE then have them drive it for 20 minutes or so to make it stays running which they should do for no charge as well.
    Fuel pump is kind of like the Cam Sensor as once it goes out it normally won't run.
    If those 2 things don't work just write back.
    Tony
  • bassassassinbassassassin Member Posts: 7
    i have a 2004 f 250 6.0 diesel. lately when ever i cruise at about 2000 RPM and then step on the fuel pedal all i get is my truck spewing black smoke and it starts to miss if i let off the pedal it stops and goes back to normal it also happens when i drive up a hill or even an overpass can someone please help. i just changed my fuel filter and that didn't sole the problem
  • chas1969chas1969 Member Posts: 4
    I don't know if this will help or not. I have a 2004 F350 diesel and recently had a smoke issue similar to yours when there was stress on the motor I had alot of smoke. It never missed though. I took it to the dealer and told them I thought my injector was bad dumping fuel when idling. They couldn't figure it out for a week. They had to call the tech's at ford's. Finally they found that the seal or seals were bad inside the turbo. They didn't replace the turbo but replaced the (seal)s . It was all covered under the 100,000 mile warranty. After the fix no more smoke. It seems to be fine, but it never seemed to affect the performance.
  • bradleyfarmsbradleyfarms Member Posts: 7
    I have a 97 F250 7.3 won't get above 1500 rpm until good and warmed up. It started just when it was cold weather and now it does it all year. Once it is warmed up not one issue, but until it gets to normal operating temp I got no go. If I try to force it to go all i get is black smoke. Used a friend's superchip computer. Came up with a code for an atmospheric pressure sensor. No parts store can find that. SOMEONE HELP!!!!!!!
  • slmx525slmx525 Member Posts: 4
    Hey Bobby. It sounds like I'm have the same problem (except for the overdrive light flashing) with my '00 F350 . Did you ever find out what your problem was and find a fix? Help!
  • slmx525slmx525 Member Posts: 4
    Help! Transmission just recently started to show these problems: occasionally when starting the truck and putting transmission into drive there's nothing there (it's like it is in Neutral), 2nd is the same. The trick to getting 2nd & Drive working and moving forward is to put truck into 1st gear and drive slowly forward and then shift into 2nd then into Drive to engage transmission. This method has worked everytime regardless of temperature, duration of how long the truck had been running or shut down, etc. Now there is a new problem: the method of putting truck into 1st gear and then to Drive is no longer working. 1st gear seems to be slipping (or what I believe to be slipping) and doesn't engage. If I gas it at this point and go to 3000 rpm and then back off, it will slowly engage into 1st and then again I can shift into 2nd and then Drive. Reverse has always worked fine. Any ideas?
  • paulpe99paulpe99 Member Posts: 6
    Hope you guys can help me out. I'm ready to finish my EGR cooler delete project. I need to get a u-shaped hose that connects the 3/4" pipe that feeds the coolant into the manifold and to the 3/4" outlet at the oil cooler. I saw one on a ford truck forum (i think) a couple of weeks ago, but i didn't have it bookmarked.
    If any of you remember seeing that hose, i'd like you to email me. It was a perfect u-shape, 3/4" i.d. hose. thanks.
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