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Love it since purchased new my 2004 f 250 6.ol diesel, now has 137,000 nearly trouble free(minor issue's only)#34 tow haul short cicuit near shift lever on the column blowing fuses, alternator quit,water in fuel,thats it !
Help with this new problem Please
Last year once or twice, and now again this year but more frequently i experience when taking off from a stop a lack of power and lots of smoke ,white with some blue then black just before it takes off, smoke then clears and runs as if nothing happened, no codes or lites ever indicate an issue. If i let off the throttle when i notice the lag it will go back to idle and idle fine, if i run it hard for a half day or so, seems to clear up for a day or so then returns maybe a week later from what i have read on the web sticking turbo Vanes, sticking egr Advice appreciated Thanks Still very proud owner 04 F250 dave s
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#34 tow haul short cicuit blowing fuses, alternator quit,water in fuel,thats it
! Last year once or twice, and now again this year but more frequently i experience when taking off from a stop a lack of power and lots of smoke ,white with some blue then black just before it takes off, smoke then clears and runs as if nothing happened, no codes or lites ever indicate an issue. If i let off the throttle when i notice the lag it will go back to idle and idle fine, if i run it hard for a half day or so, seems to clear up for a day or so then returns maybe a week later from what i have read on the web sticking turbo Vanes, sticking egr Advice appreciated Thanks Still very proud owner 04 F250 dave s
I have a 2004 f250 6.0L and i got a blown head gasket at 79k just after warranty.
I would like to join the law suit of there is one and not to late. pleas contact me thanks!!!!
driver relay is clicking on and off. The truck cranks fine. I cleaned the battery cables and all the grounds I could find under the hood. I think it must be a current issue. I load tested both batteries good, Any help ?
Apparently both of these (poor designed head bolt situation) and EGR coolers are prime culprits. The only thing that I know that can help you pinpoint the problem is finding a good diesel mechanic who will not just swap out parts. Unfortunately, these "good" diesel mechanics are often missing in action from Ford dealerships. I know this is not much help but if you have the original head gaskets I think you might be in trouble there. Good luck. gerald
Have a 99/225k with the same/similar problem. Runs bad intermittently – typically shutting down and restarting would clear (temporarily), check engine light on/off. Problem began after replacing cam sensor (recall) but may also have bad fuel (drained fuel filter (twice) added 911) – had in shop, threw two codes (sorry do not have them avail) they could not find an issue – and sent us down the road. Now will not start in the cold – smokes/smells (passenger side) when attempting startup. Truck is dead and awaiting tow truck – plan to bring indoors/warm it up and try again.
Would appreciate thoughts/ideas – traveling and stuck in a small town ..
Thank you!
1.) I agree with gerald, "good" diesel technicians are hard if not impossible to find.
2.) Make sure you know that it's the head gaskets that failed. Preform or have a compression test done on both the cooling system and the cylinders. It could just be the EGR cooler.
3.) Get parts that are actually going to fix the problem. An upgraded EGR cooler from bulletproofdiesel.com or an EGR delete kit from rivercitydiesel.com. Pay the money and get the ARP head studs. I know that 500 bucks for head studs may cause you to fudge your Jockey's but you don't want to have this happen again.
4.) Make sure they replace all of the o-rings on all of the diesel injectors (commonly called a D-ring kit)
5.) Replace that crappy stock HPOP oil screen with a stainless steel one.
I'll leave it at that for now. I'm also interested in getting a class action suit going. We've all spent way too much on these machines and received nothing but headache and heartbreak not to mention lost wages for some. If you are interested I would be more than happy to share/help with anyone trying do it themselves.
Scott
A Bully Dog tech rep. said to have the dealership "flash" the computer to set all updated codes but the dealership said they couldn't do that as it showed too many codes -- why couldn't they just remove them, set the new codes in the computer and try that? The tech rep said this should correct the warm starting problem -- no such luck.
Any help would be appreciated.
As far as you and everyone else I have said it before and will say it again. If any shop says they know what the problem is but it doesn't fix it afterwards they just bought it and as long as you get it in writing any court will not make you pay for it. Thats the main reason for getting stuff in writing so it's always on them. If you do pay for it so you can take it to another shop and someone actually makes it run right not only will most Courts make the first place refund your money they will also make the pay for the other place that did the work.
The Courts will stand behind every shop that is owed money but when a shop screws over a customer and are much harder on them then you wold believe. SO always make sure you have everything IN WRITING.
They feel they are confident they have found the problem with the seals and the new ones should put me back on the road -- I hope it does and wish I could find the last shop that worked on this motor.
More later as I learn more.
thanks
heres the link to that hydrolic
http://www.northernhydraulics.net/dump_bed_kits.html?gclid=CI_x_5zokJ8CFY915Qodw- - Up7lA
Anyway, if you were hauling mulch this idea might work,, but my guess is that you are going to destroy your truck trying to haul gravel. You might be able to haul 1/2 yard o.k. in the truck but any more than this is big trouble.
BTW, most trailers (not all) have 3500 pound axles, some have 5000 pound ones so if you are buying a trailer, be sure it will carry the weight also. Gravel is VERY heavy.
Gerald
Replaced cylinder head gaskets
Replaced cylinder head bolts with ARP studs
Replaced intake and exhaust manifold gaskets
Rebuilt all Diesel injectors (O-rings etc.)
Machined and pressured tested cylnder heads
Replaced valve cover gaskets
Replaced rocker assembly gasket
Replaced all oil pump gaskets
Replaced oil cooler
Installed modified EGR cooler
Installed new and improved turbo oil drain fitting
Again, I'd be happy to offer my service/help to anyone who is looking to have quality work done that is way more affordable than the dealership please let me know.
SB
The Axle's you really want to look at!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Actually they trailers we used to have had 7000 lbs axle for a total of 14,000 lbs. If you are giving 3500.00 for a new trailer Gerald is right and you are probably getting a cheap trailer that won't carry want you want. If that price is for a used trailer with 7000 lbs axle's under you would be wise to jump on it. If it is that type and you don't get it let me know because I can turn it over here in Colorado for 5500 to 6000 dollars in a heart beat.
Anyway it's not cheap to be in business at all and trying to do things cheaper than the other person or cut corners to make a buck remember this. YOU are not the first one to try it, people have been trying to out do each other long before you and they will be doing long after you. The best money I spent was paying good money on equipment and tools, I am not saying buy the stuff that cost the most but buy stuff that you see others use and you will have less break downs as long as you treat it right. I have an 9 year Demo Saw that will still start up with in 3 pulls because I take care of my stuff where others after a year are having to rebuild them or buying a new because of the way they treated it or bought a cheap one from harbor freight, lol.
Well let me know on that trailer and Axle size if you don't buy it.
Tony
Again what kind of mechanic do you have working on your truck ? Most Mechanics and even Dealer shops use Allprodata. In there they show and tell in full detail about how to fix just about any vehicle. They do have to pay for this service but it will make any dumb mechanic look smart.
Ford Corporate is telling me that the smoke is normal ! I have service records and papers from ford confirming that " The gray and blue smoke is normal" :confuse:
It reminded me of an old 1979 Chevy Blazer that I had. It used a quart of oil every 200 miles. There was always a big blue cloud that followed everywhere I went.