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Ford F-Series Powerstroke Diesel Problems

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Comments

  • wallsfwallsf Member Posts: 2
    you have a lemon i dont know what your state laws are but in Fl of you bring a car in for the same problem three time by law the must give you a new truck are 100% refund
  • bbuttreybbuttrey Member Posts: 4
    O1 it's been sitting for about 8 months. If I pluge in it wll start.

    we took off the valve cover and checked the glows pluge they are getting red hot. when excelleration will only go to 2500 rpms
  • cowboy9cowboy9 Member Posts: 161
    This is a 01 or 09 because in Colorado we have the same law about 3 times and I think its on new or used. Hard Start we are back to the same thing and you need to get a Scanner on it while its running so you can see the Voltage back from the ICP Sensor to make sure it's getting at least 1 Volt back to the Computer. When you Purge it does it still take at least 5 seconds for it to start ?
  • bbuttreybbuttrey Member Posts: 4
    It takes the oil pressure gauge a few seconds to register. I'm not sure about the purge question, what do you mean? If I do not plug it in it is impossible to get started even with starting fluid. I want to thank you for all your help.
  • gerlad1gerlad1 Member Posts: 22
    Does anyone know what year Ford started putting in PFD (particulate filters) in the exhaust system on the diesel trucks? That is, do the 6.0 liter engines have them or only the 6.4liter engines?
  • amccormickamccormick Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 7.3 that will not start in cold weather. If i do not plug in block heater in weather that gets below 50 degrees it will not start. Even if i wait till it gets to 57 degrees it will not start.I only have 97000 mi on motor.Once i get it started its fine for the rest of the day.It only got to 38 degrees last night it still would not start without either.What could be the problem. I had truck serviced 1500 mi ago.It was still warm then.
    Thanks MACK.
  • cowboy9cowboy9 Member Posts: 161
    Have you ever replace your Soleniod for the Glow Plugs ? It's either that or the O-Rings not letting the Oil Pressure build up but more than likely if the truck runs great after you get it started it's the Soleniod for the Glow Plugs.
  • azgreekazgreek Member Posts: 7
    What ever you had left of your glow plugs are gone after you used ether sprayed in there it will melt the eliment does your wait to start lite come on and go off?? Glow plugs or solenoid
  • pwruppwrup Member Posts: 6
    You have sludged injectors. If you can get a scan tool and perfrom injector electrical self test (buzz test) in the morning before trying to start the engine you will probably notice that some or all the injectors are real quiet or muffled. However you can perform the test and start by replacing the quiet injectors and see if it starts easier. The buzz test will test the injectors in numerical order 1-8. If it does then replace all the injectors and you should be fine. Just a quick note be sure to check that number 8 injector is the correct one for that year, some 7.3s had a long lead injector in that cyl. good luck
  • pwruppwrup Member Posts: 6
    The DPF came out in 08 when they launched the 6.4 the 6.0 does not have a DPF.
  • pwruppwrup Member Posts: 6
    Sounds like you have the same issue as amccormick. Does it run better when it gets warm? Does it start after it is warm? If so then try to perform the buzz test when cold and if there are real quiet injectors compared to others then you probably have sludged injectors and they will need to be replaced.
  • ddw78ddw78 Member Posts: 16
    I would like to ask for opinions on what you think the impact on value (price) should be for a 2004 PSD XLT LB 4X4? Private party numbers from the TMV appraiser come up at about $14,000 for miles and condition of this vehicle.

    Let's say that the seller comes up with a reasonable list of repairs that were performed after the wreck that caused it to be a salvage title. What do you think the impact should be on the real value of the truck, if it drives ok and checks out as straight? Is a 50% deduct about right, more or less?

    It's a 6.0 with 160,000 miles. Should I just skip it and look for a 7.3 a couple of years older?

    Thanks!
  • pwruppwrup Member Posts: 6
    You could have an intermitant short in one of the under valve cover harnesses for the injectors and when you acclerate the wire will move away from the metal it is shorted on. remove the valve covers and inspect the wiring real good to see if there is any sign of a wire being rubbed through. Also check all the wiring from the idm (injector driver module) to the engine.
  • crazydancrazydan Member Posts: 39
    mt half brother owns via trailers and this 6litre is has been sitting at mountbrydges ford dealership since november the batteries are now frozen,they said that it runs with frozen batteries, any ways it was still under warranty when it was brought there it,s still there ,it wouldn,t start with new batteries, they said it started after 5seconds,which is [non-permissible content removed].it,s never ran right and they say they cannot figure out whats wrong .i know whats wrong it,s junk,he has bought 6 new batteries in 4 years since new,junk ford junk ford,found on road dead ,what should he do, 4 months and they just keep jerking him around..and they let the batteries freeze to boot.and they tell him it,s fine. he,s afraid to pull it off the lot.....via trailers mountbridges , ontario canada,you would think that they would understand that a trailer place would need a reliable truck. you ford factories should go down in flames. producing the worst junk in the world today....how many more months should go by before this junk comes back to do the same thing......he won,t pick it up...he,s scared to drive it anymore..what should he do????
  • gerlad1gerlad1 Member Posts: 22
    A couple of questions regarding fuel economy and some of the things that affect it on a 6.0 liter engine.
    First, I have 132,000 miles on my 2004 and have never had the injectors cleaned at a dealer or shop. I get about 15 mpg on the highway at about 70 mph. I assume that the injectors need to periodically be cleaned the same way gasoline engines need to be cleanted. Correct? I periodically add the injector cleaner cetane booster stuff to my gas tank but am not sure this is enough? Comments?
    Also, what about catalytic converters? How do you know if they are restricted?
    Gerald
  • dbweaverdbweaver Member Posts: 88
    I have a 1999 F250 7.3 PSD. I usually drive it on short trips on backroads (about 75 miles) to my grandfathers. I always try to conserve fuel as much as possible on these trips. I noticed the engine was having to turn over alot more before it would start. I took a trip to Pennslyvania, (about 8hrs) with engine rpms around 2500 the whole trip. I noticed my truck starting alot easier when I got there. Now whenever it gets hard to start I drive it down the interstate in 4th gear for abou 100miles. It fixes it everytime so far.
  • kbrisbinkbrisbin Member Posts: 1
    having huge electrical problem Back up sensor stopped working, airbag light stays on. power locks wont lock or unlock, door ajar light stays on interior light stays on
    had a remote starter and alarm system put in 2002 never had any problems
    could this be the prob or something else please help.
  • ottoguyottoguy Member Posts: 1
    This truck has 126,000 miles and it started blowing white smoke like crazy. It may have blown a head cylinder. I would like to replace the engine completely to get away from all the 6.0 problems. Is there another engine available that would fit onto this unit?
  • jdmanjdman Member Posts: 2
    2000 F-350 7.3 Powerstroke would die while driving and then would catch immediately and go again. It finally quit completely and now it won't start. We replaced the camshaft sensor still won't start Please help!

    Thank You JDman
  • cowboy9cowboy9 Member Posts: 161
    You might want to get it on a scanner to see if you are getting the 1 plus voltage from the ICP Sensor to the Computer so it will fire. Make sure they can read that Voltage while they are cracking over the motor, DO NOT just have them hook it up and read the codes as it will tell them the ICP Sensor and IPR Valve are bad because of the O-Rings not letting it build up the 500 PSI of pressure it needs to send the 1 plus volts to the computer. If it's not doing this more than likely it's your O-Rings. Alot of shops will tell you that it's the Injectors but usually it's just the O-Rings. Anyway thats where you need to start as long as you have Check your Air Filter, Fuel Filter, Fuel Pump as these will do the same but usually most people change those often and use only Shell Oil with a Motorcraft Oil Filter. If there is anything you don't understand just let me know.
  • pokertramppokertramp Member Posts: 3
    It is a 1997 Ford with the 7.3L Powerstroke. A couple of times it would shut off while driving. Now when you turn the key on the "wait to start" light does not come on and the truck will not start. I tried to use a OBD II scanner on it, 2 different ones, and both say "error cannot communicate with vehicle"

    I am starting to think the engine computer is no good. The oil is full, all the fuses are good.....What could it be?
  • 444expert444expert Member Posts: 9
    I have run into this several times it is a tell tail sign that the pcm is no good when the wait to start light does not come on. You will need the four digit code off the old pcm when you order your new one.
  • 444expert444expert Member Posts: 9
    Is there a piggy back chip on the pcm? That will also cause this problem.
  • pokertramppokertramp Member Posts: 3
    edited February 2010
    Ughhh!!! That is what I figured. Is the 4 digit code printed on the PCM? I can't just get a used computer from the junkyard? No there is no chip on it. The PCM is located on the driver side fender near the firewall, correct?
  • pokertramppokertramp Member Posts: 3
    edited February 2010
    I figured out the no start problem, a bad fuse....it was good with a meter but when I pulled them all it was barely together, I put it back in and it popped the rest of the way and then got nothing with the meter....put a new one in and the light came on and started up.

    I know the 2 codes showing are glow plug circuit low input bank 1 and 2....what does this mean???
  • stanonestanone Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1996 Ford F-250 4 wheel drive with a 7.0 and a 5 speed standard trans. If you want to call it my baby, it is. The trouble is she is sick. She starts great when she is cold but let her get warm or at running temp she will set there all day and turn over as if her batter would never die. Shut her with a little starting fluid she will start right up. I have not check anything as of yet, trying to get info before spending money on her. I think most of you can under stand that.... The Ford Company loves it when you walk in the door. They know who I am. Anyone with a GOOD PLACE to start. :(
  • 444expert444expert Member Posts: 9
    Do you have any way to check ICP how many miles are on it and have the injectors ever been re sealed?
  • stanonestanone Member Posts: 3
    No way to check ICP except the Ford Co and my lady has 125000 on heand this the first trouble. I going to change the oil this week and all filters. She has been setting for about 2 yrs and not been run but a fue time a month.
  • dairymandairyman Member Posts: 3
    Stanone: You may have a bit of maintenance to do in order to get her running right. First of all, be very careful with the use of starting fluid. Starting fluid strips the oil off the cylinder walls and can cause scoring of the walls and premature oil ring/seal failure. When I used to run heavy equipment, using starting fluid could be cause for job termination. Secondly, if the rig has been sitting for a couple of years, you could have lots of water in the fuel and possibly the formation of bio masses in your fuel tanks. You may need to drain them and put in fresh diesel. In order to drain the water from your filter housing, you will find a small yellow lever next to your fuel filter housing. I believe you can do the following: while motor is idling, open valve for about 20 to 30 seconds. Fuel will drain from a line near the front of the engine on the passenger side. You can catch most of it in an oil change collection pan. You will probably need a new fuel filter as you have indicated.

    See how these maintenence fixes go. They will probably improve things a bit, but may not bring you all the way to optimum running conditions. Other issues could include glow plug relay and glow plugs. After those are checked, a next step might be your injectors. But....one step at a time with the less expensive and easier fixes first. You may need to check your batteries. If you need to replace them, consider getting them from Costco or Sam's Club, whichever you have in your neck of the woods.

    Also, if she's been sitting, you may want to engage your 4X system just to get the gears and wheel locks lubricated.

    At 125k she is just barely broke in.
  • bbuttreybbuttrey Member Posts: 4
    edited February 2010
    Does anybody know what the ohm readings should be? Thank you in advance 7.3
  • bbuttreybbuttrey Member Posts: 4
  • jdmanjdman Member Posts: 2
    edited February 2010
    I read on another diesel forum. If the HPOP is low on oil the 7.3 won't start. Where is the HPOP reservoir and ICP sensor located.

    Thanks for your help,

    JDman
  • ijenkinsijenkins Member Posts: 1
    have a 99 f-250 7.3,when i get down to a quarter of a tank it acts like it runs out of fuel and i refuel it runs rough for a few miles .any ideas?
  • pwruppwrup Member Posts: 6
    The HPOP reservoir is on top front center of engine, the ICP is on the passenger side in the center of the head on the intake side. And yes if the oil reservoir is low it wont start until it fills up when cranking. IS the vehicle hard to start after sitting over night? IF so then you could have an injector or injectors hanging open. The way to find that out is to get the engine started and let it run for awhile, then shut it off and remove both valve covers, on each injector there is what it called a spill spout, it is on the top side of the injector and it is usually square in shape and points downward. Place a small piece of clean cardboard under the spill spout and let sit overnight. Then check to see what piece of cardboard is oily, That will be the leaking injector and will have to be replaced.

    IF you cant start the engine and suspect that the resrevoir is draining then there is a plug on the top of the reservoir. Use a standard screwdriver and remove the plug and fill it with engine oil and then perform the above test. good luck
  • cowboy9cowboy9 Member Posts: 161
    Hey JD,
    What if the truck is at an idle and dies and it showing the the Voltage dropping below 1 Volt from the ICP Sensor, doesn't that lean more towards bad O-Rings ? Because we can watch the Voltage coming from it and as soon as the Voltage goes above 1 Volt it fires but below it dies.
  • tsieverstsievers Member Posts: 2
    i have put in a new cam sensor, new vavle cover gaskets, glow plugs are good, new fuel pump, new fuel filter, checked the fuses, and my truck still won't start. when you crank it over it acts like it isn't getting any fuel, i blew the fuel lines back to the tanks to be sure they weren't plugged with no results. it started by cutting out when i would go down the road, and the voltage on the amp gage drops before it dies. anyone have any ideas????? :sick:
  • cowboy9cowboy9 Member Posts: 161
    You are losing all the Voltage in your truck or the Voltage from the ICP Sensor ?
  • cpphotocpphoto Member Posts: 1
    I have an '04 ( built 06/04) F250 6.0l, 138k miles now, have had it a year, have had a new FICM, EGR valve, #5 injector, so far. ran better for awhile, now scanning IPR valve and ICP sensor. let me tell what it does, started when i got low on fuel, would act lke it was flooded, and cough,sputter. put fuel in - run better. Now makes no difference on fuel level- sputters, coughs, rough idle, but gets home somehow. Now is surging during acceleration and when stopped at lights. getting dangerous. How do i know the sensor and valve are really bad? Run out of money, and tired of throwing parts at it! thanks :(
  • stanonestanone Member Posts: 3
    Thanks very much, as soon as I can get the wifes car move out of the way we are starting to work on my baby. I don't think the wife under stands. She says It is only a truck. I couldn't talk for days. I think she for got it took her to work for a long time. Thanks......... :D
  • tsieverstsievers Member Posts: 2
    previous owner has spliced the blue/green wire and soldered a diode in the wire, i tried bypassing it with a jumper wire but still wouldn't start...how are you supposed to check the icp sensor?...and how many volts are supposed to be going to it?
  • cowboy9cowboy9 Member Posts: 161
    Well you need a Scanner that will do it for ya while the motor is turning over. I think most shop scanners will do it, I know the new Snap-on will. Have you ever had it in a shop ? If you have most shops will will rescan it for free. I tried one time to jumper the hot wire going to the ICP but it wouldn't work for some reason and couldnt get an answer from anyone on how come it wouldn't work. Now I am gonna ask a dumb question only because I did it once, lol. How is the oil in the truck , mine was leaking and I was really busy and didnt watch it, well long story short the truck died and gave me all kinds of griff until someone asked me if it had enough oil in it, lol. Also please tell me you are changing it within 5000 miles if under a 100K on the truck and 3000 if over 100K. Just in case you don't know these Powerstrokes work best with the Shell Rotella Oil 15/40 n Motorcraft Oil Filter which are priced best at Wallyworld ( wal-mart). Filter 10.00 and they have 2.5 Gals of Oil on special for 25.50 right now.

    OMG I just saw the new Jackie Chan movie promo, they are redoing The Karate Kid and it looks really funny, damn I am getting old when they are redoing movies I grew up with and they call it a classic :cry:
  • finclguru2finclguru2 Member Posts: 2
    Did Ford diesels ever get less problem oriented ? We want to buy, know to avoid 2003 & 2004. Safe to buy 2005 or 2006?
  • jspot78jspot78 Member Posts: 2
    I Had the same Problem with my 2000 f-350 i pulled my fuel tank out and found that the fuel pick up tube was broke off so when i got down to 1/4 of a tank my truck would die and when i filled it up it ran rough until the air got out of the system.
  • jspot78jspot78 Member Posts: 2
    I have 180,000 mile on my 2000 f-350, I had my Transmission serviced and 2 days later I was pulling a load I had my superchip programmer in tow safe mode, and my transmission overheated pouring most of all my fluid on the ground. It never have done that before I had my Transmission service.
  • pwruppwrup Member Posts: 6
    Is the ICP voltage erattic? It could be orings but before you do all that work check the nut on the back of the IPR, if it is loose it will allow the IPR to move and it will cause an erratic ICP reading. Also try unplugging the ICP and see if it stays running, if it does then the ICP sensor or the connector at the ICP could be bad, replace the sensor and connector and see what happens.
  • johnboy57johnboy57 Member Posts: 6
    I have an '05 F350 6.0 diesel with 198,000 miles on it. I had some injectors replaced {all new o rings}, seals and o rings on high pressure tubes replaced, and after the truck came out of the shop, the fuel mileage went from 15 mpg in town to about 10! This truck had a "3 day trial" Bully Dog on it the day before it developed a "won't start when warm" problem and we found the bad seals and o rings. After all repairs were made, the mileage has gone to hell! It used to only get about 16.3 mpg on the highway at speeds of 75 and now is doing 13 at same speeds.
    Any ideas would be appreciated. One mechanic has suggested to take it to a Ford dealer and have them "clean the computer" and load all new data -- they want about $100.00 to do that.
  • alan4444alan4444 Member Posts: 1
    Unfortunately the engine must come out to change this gasket, Heres a kicker to think on, I took my 97 to a ford certified mechanic to do this, He changed the pan gasket last friday, since that $1600 expense I have in the last 2 days had to put one gallon, not quart, gallon of oil in this truck after only a 25 mile trip. I have done this twice in 2 days. Hopefully you will find a mechanic that is worth your cash, I cant even get a call from mine. I also had the rear crank seal changed, the truck still pours oil somewhere, I just dont know where, it only has 120 k original miles.
  • berniestowingberniestowing Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2001 F550 i have replaced the IDM 2 times and keep having the same issues of it running on bank 2 and cant figure it out :sick:
    any ideas???
  • mspbmspb Member Posts: 1
    bought this truck drove it around for about a month decided to do a maintenance on it, changed the air filter [which was pretty dirty] after that it wouldn't start after it was warmed up, replaced the CPS and IPR didn't fix it, fuel pressure reads 60psi
  • cowboy9cowboy9 Member Posts: 161
    I would say double check all the wiring because more than likely you unpluged something when you was replacing the Air Filter. How come you replaced the CPS n IPR ?
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