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2007 Outbacks

mikeorbmikeorb Member Posts: 4
edited March 2014 in Subaru
My dealer has some hidden away at a remote lot. I saw a new color: dark grey. And the MP3/AUX input in the armrest. The "wood" inlay was also now glossy (like it was under plastic), and I did not like this. He also mentioned XM radio (not sure if all models or just some). He did not have any brochures yet.
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Comments

  • bobdeebobdee Member Posts: 9
    Check out this page for information on 2007 Outbacks. It has the details about XM, colors, etc.

    Cars101
  • krccrkkrccrk Member Posts: 36
    2007 Edmunds info now available:

    http://www.edmunds.com/new/2007/subaru/outback/index.html

    No more XT non-Limiteds. Sigh. Think I'll just keep my current car another year.
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    Also note on this site is the new low-priced Outback basic, with Forester X steel wheels. There are pixs and content info here.

    Bob
  • vpfreevpfree Member Posts: 1
    Hello I have recently purchased a 07 outback ltd. I am interested in buying the amp/subwoofer that mounts under the drivers seat. I was hoping someone would be able to tell me how hard it would be to install myself. And also are there any additional parts needed besides the amp/subwoofer.
    Does anyone out there have the amp/sub in there outback? Would you consider it a good option?
    Any help with this would be greatly appreciated

    Thanks
  • terry92270terry92270 Member Posts: 1,247
    I got the sub, and the tweeter package, which really do make a BIG difference. For the $100 install, I would have the dealer do it.
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Member Posts: 1,798
    Hi. It's a little confusing decyphering all the AWD's Subaru is offering these days.

    My question is; Is AWD in the Outback a reactive, or proactive design?

    By reactive (which is Haldex's design, used by Volvo, VW, Ford, Audi, GM, etc.), I mean the AWD doesn't kick in unless the front wheels slip, at which point the AWD turns on.

    By proactive, I mean the AWD is always working.
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    the Subaru AWD is always working. Non-VTD AT systems are biases 80/20 (or 90/10 depending on the year and source) front to rear. MT's are 50/50 biased. VTD systems are biased 45/55 front to rear. All systems can send power to the wheels that grip, better so on those with the limited slip rear differential. Sensors in the AT's also help it proactively shift traction.

    http://www.subaru.com/sub/misc/coretech/index.html

    -Brian
  • nickelnickel Member Posts: 147
    I thought that my 06 OB 2.5i AT ys 90/10. Never heard of 80/20. I also believed that when you engage 1st and 2nd gears the traction becames 50/50. Can you correct me?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Was only in the pre-97 ATs IIRC.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    They claimed 90/10 in the brochures and stuff, but we asked Patti to talk to her techies and they were the ones that told us it was more like 80/20.

    Any how, that's only the default power split, it actually adjust the minute you hit the gas, before there is any slip.

    They key difference for a Subaru AWD system is that *ALL* of them are engineered for full-time use, i.e. they don't overheat or disengage above 29mph like certain Rotary Blade Coupling-based AWD systems do.

    *cough* Honda *cough*

    -juice
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Member Posts: 1,798
    Thnx for info on the AWD...glad to hear it is proactive.

    One oddity I find when pursuing Consumers Union reliability records... on their charts, most Subarus show way below average engine reliability after about 3-4 years.

    Is this due to the timing belt? I have read on other Subaru forums that timing belts need to be replaced around 100K miles, or they will break and "lunch" the motor.
    True? False?

    FYI, my old '83 Camry, with fiberglass timing belts, had two replacements (and broke one anway - engine survived it). Not fun. :sick:
  • terry92270terry92270 Member Posts: 1,247
    "...on their charts, most Subaru's show way below average engine reliability after about 3-4 years."

    Some? All? The charts I have always seen from CU rank Subaru near the top in dependability. What have you been looking at, specifically?

    Timing belts need to be replaced on all vehicles, and I do it way before 100K.
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Member Posts: 1,798
    Good to know more about timing belts, thanks! Current engine is a somewhat updated pushrod.

    Yes, Subarus do well in general, but their engine "major reliability" catagory does not do as well as other brands like Toyota, Honda, etc,
    More worrysome is the drive system on Forester and Impreza goes way below average after about 3 years. Legacy seems to do much better by comparison.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,786
    Might be the head gasket reliability. Truly a major concern for 1996 through 2000.... up to 2002. One member here had a problem with his gaskets on a 2003. Really not time or mileage dependent, though. Mostly just luck of the draw! :cry:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Not sure about reliability but my 2 race cars both held up well.

    The 1996 Impreza I started racing at 120k miles and put on about 10-20k track miles and no issues.

    The 1994 Legacy Turbo I got at 100k, it now has 150k, and I put on about 10-15k track miles and no motor issues.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    CR's records note drops in reliability for models affected by the head gaskets leaks, though we should note that Subaru covered those for 100k miles if you used a conditioner for the coolant that they put in free of charge.

    Besides that, wheel bearings on Imprezas before 2002, and Forester before 2003, were a known issue.

    What else? Not much, really. Those were the 2 biggest issues and they're resolved.

    Last year's CR Auto Issue had Subaru as the most reliable brand period for MY2004. In this year's issue, all Subaru models scored better than any single Acura model.

    Not bad, but nobody's perfect.

    -juice
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,786
    though we should note that Subaru covered those for 100k miles if you used a conditioner for the coolant that they put in free of charge. Only 99-02, by VIN (so some vehicles were not covered), but no coverage for 96-98, and those were certainly problematic years.

    Overall good cars though. My opinion of mine continues to shift toward the fonder side of the spectrum the longer I own it. Had I not been flat broke in Oct of 2000, I would have sold it then and never looked back. As it is, it's been fun! :P
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • nickelnickel Member Posts: 147
    Any idea how many (or %) of Outbacks and Legacys (XTs) come with a manual transmission?
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    On 12/21 SOA announced that there would be a 2.5i Outback LL Bean wagon and a 2.5i Outback LL Bean Limited wagon added with standard NAVI.

    http://www.cars101.com/subaru/outback/outback2007.html#overview

    Vehicles should be at dealers in late January.

    Bob
  • matrsoskinmatrsoskin Member Posts: 32
    The Outback/Legacy head gasket problem appears to be far more widespread than Subaru is willing to admit. My former 2003 Outback needed a gasket replacement at 28K miles. She had Subaru approved coolant from the start, therefore, it was not a coolant problem as Subaru often states. Even after a gasket was replaced, I could hear a sound of gushing coolant upon engine start-up. Obviously, the new gasket was also leaking air somewhere. In addition to a gasket problem, a transmission had started to slip at 32K miles. One could hardly call such vehicle as a reliable.
    There is also a rumor circulating on the net that the much higher mechanical reliability ratings for the 2005+ Outback/Legacy had been linked to the fact that the Indiana plant had switched to using the Boxer engines manufactured in Japan, instead of getting them from the localUS Supplier.

    Cheers,

    Matroskin
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Member Posts: 1,798
    Thanks for the reliability comments, folks.

    How do '06-07 outback seats fare in comfort for long trips? I usually make several 700 mile trips each year.

    My current Malibu seats, save for a too-low lumbar support, remain comfortable for hours at a stretch.

    Some reports I read remarked the Subaru seats were fine for short hauls, but didn't work all that well for long trips.

    Knowing this will help me decide on the next car, for which Subaru is being considered.
  • scottcascottca Member Posts: 12
    Hi: Would appreciate advice from owners of the 2007 outback station wagon 3.0 R L. L. Bean Edition who only use regular gasoline & not the premium. Do you notice any pings or knocks in the engine & is the full warranty still in effect if only regular gasoline is used. My wife loves the smooth ride but will look elseware if you feel regular gas won't do a good job with performance. Thanks for your advice. Scott :cry:
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Neat, Bob. So now you can get a loaded up model with the base engine. I wonder if it will replace the 2.5i Limited? I like the two-tone and wood steering wheel touches, plus NAV.

    Also, wonder if it'll have VDC?

    -juice
  • chansen1chansen1 Member Posts: 4
    I have had a new '07 Outback for about a month ~1100 miles. A rattle has started, and seems to have gotten worse, and seems to be from the back end. I tried to remove parts from the rear, one item at a time and couldn't find it. I now have it at the dealer and they have had it for three days. They think it may be the struts for the hatch door, but aren't convinced. Has anyone else had this problem fixed?
  • snowbeltersnowbelter Member Posts: 288
    I, too, have a brand new 07 with a rattle in the rear. Haven't brought it back yet. I thought it might be the assemble for the center rear seatbelt (in the ceiling), but now I'm not sure. Others have suggested that the underside of the rear trunk door, which has a plastic edge, is the culprit. See Post 6470 in the Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagon Problems and Solutions listing or do a search in the Subaru Crew listings for rear rattle.

    Let us know if you come up with a solution.

    Martin

    P.S. If you have moisture in your front headlights like a couple of us with new 07s have reported, then we are in big trouble.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,786
    You too, huh? This does seem to be a common problem. Other folks have said that it is coming from the bottom of the lift gate, but I do not recall the exact means of resolution - basically just cushioning that area. The posts were recent though (within the last month?). Try doing a search. Mine also has this rattle (just noticed it for the first time this morning). It has been said that it is most apparent in cold temperatures.

    Does +15F count? Feels almost balmy warm here after -40 three days ago!
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • chansen1chansen1 Member Posts: 4
    I have not noticed moisture in the headlights. I really hope that I'm not going to regret trading in my old '96 for this one! I'll update once I have more info from the dealer.
  • chansen1chansen1 Member Posts: 4
    I did feel like it was mostly during cold temps (I'm in the SF Bay Area, so by cold I would say 40 degrees or less). I thought that maybe the sun on the car was causing it to not rattle, so that seems like somewhat of a pattern. I just wish the service dept would listen to me and use my investigations to help their own so I can get rid of the loaner.
  • kirstenskirstens Member Posts: 2
    I am just about to order a 2.5i limited wagon from carsdirect. I was speaking with my local dealership though, and they told me that they were just recently notified that production on the 2007 is being discontinued, and production will only be on the 2008. Has anyone else heard this? I am going to contact headquarters tomorrow, but this is concerning, as I'm wondering if there may be something wrong with the 07 models. I'm now hesitant to proceed with the order.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    No issues, but production is ramping down as the 08 is a refreshed front and rear fascias and interiors. 08s will be shipping come spring so I'd imagine that the 07s will start to disappear soon.

    -mike
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    Mike, I believe the '08 Outbacks will go on sale in July.

    Bob
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    They will still be ramping down production I would think. Figure June 1 you won't be able to get any OBs, so over the next 3-4 months they'll be slowing production which means some color/options/trim-levels won't be available.

    -mike
  • kirstenskirstens Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the feedback everyone! ;)
  • p9411p9411 Member Posts: 4
    I have the same rattle and took it to the dealer who fixed it but tightening the latch. Now I have to slam the door to shut it. One of the rattles was fixed but it seems there was more than one. After the appointment I rode with the tech and we both still heard it and he said there was nothing he could do. Very frustrating. I am going back soon for moisture in my headlights and will ask them again to look at it and try again. Last time they had my car for 24 hours.
  • chansen1chansen1 Member Posts: 4
    They ended up having mine there for 5 days (two of them were weekend). The service manager was reluctant to do that because I had a loaner from them. He was planning on replacing the struts to the door, thinking that it could be that and needed to wait for the parts to arrive. I insisted that they keep it until it is fixed. Well, as it turns out, they didn't replace the struts at all. They apparently took the whole back door, and I don't know exactly what else, apart and put it back together, apparently tightening something more than it was before they took it apart. Although it seems to be fixed, and I'm really happy about that, it is frustrating, becuase he really didn't care about the inconvenience that he was trying to impose on me by wanting me to bring the loaner back, get my own car and then bring it back in again after the weekend when they could have done what they did in the first place without needing to wait for a useless part to arrive. Anyway, maybe you could get your service people to contact them to see what they did to my car. I worked with the service manager, John Lauster, at Marin Mazda Subaru in San Rafael, CA. I will mention that while I had the loaner, which was an '06 Outback, I noticed new rattles on it that would come and go. I'm hoping that I don't have that to look forward to! In the meantime, I really do like my new car.
  • p9411p9411 Member Posts: 4
    Wow that doesn't sound like much fun. Thanks for the info. I contacted SOA by email yesterday and will see what they have to say about these things. I love my car too.
  • ncc4ncc4 Member Posts: 16
    I also have a 2007 Outback and one source of a noise/rattle turned out to be the luggage cover. In the "open" with no tension on the roller/retractor the part of the cover with the handle would flap up and down on each sharp bump. I fixed this by either removing the cover, or always leaving it closed in the slots by the rear door.

    Might help some of you.

    Nigel
  • marc_outbackmarc_outback Member Posts: 6
    The car: 2005 Outback 2.5i
    The issue: The air coming out of the passenger-side vents, with the temperature knob set on maximum, the blower on maximum speed, and all dashboard-vents open, is not warm, while the air coming out of the driver's side vents is warm.
    The question: What could be the origin?
    Thanks, Marc
  • snowbeltersnowbelter Member Posts: 288
    Had my car at the dealer the other day. They added some cushioning along an edge of the rear trunk lid (not sure exactly where) and tightened up the rear license plate. There is still a rattle, but it may be coming from the middle rear seatbelt assembly (in the headliner). They also replaced the rear tailight assembly which they cracked while working on the repair.
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Member Posts: 1,798
    Does anyone know if telescoping steering will make an apperance on the '08 Outback?
    I looked very hard at the '07's at two auto shows but found the lack of this feature made it very hard to get really comfortable.

    Also sorry to hear about the rattles. Hopefully Subaru will get this sorted out. Then again, I heard a fair number of rattles in a co-workers' new WTX.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,786
    Yes to telescoping for '08.

    Rattles... annoying. I am picking my car up momentarily from the dealership where, they say, all the rattles are fixed. I dropped it off yesterday morning, so considering they fixed all 4 rattles (lift gate, dash, glove box... was there another? Maybe only 3), I am hopeful.

    I will provide better info after pickup.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • vinnie07vinnie07 Member Posts: 5
    I thought I'd start up this thread here since there are two of us so far with fluid leaks from a brand new car. Anyone else?

    Link to thread from "Subaru Legacy/Outback - Problems & Solutions"

    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/WebX14@@.ef05e94/6699#6699

    --Vinnie
  • vinnie07vinnie07 Member Posts: 5
    vinnie07, "Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons - Problems & Solutions" #6700, 30 Jan 2007 2:20 pm#6699
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,786
    Oops... forgot to update after the pickup! The lift gate rattle was gone - which is wonderful... that was the worst one. Now, three weeks later, it is still gone. But, the glove box rattle, which was in its infancy on 1/31, was not fixed (they said they cushioned the seam and re-positioned the box). Now it is quite bad. They ordered a replacement box saying that this one is "loose." I doubt it will solve anything.

    The shift boot and P-brake boot were both cracked due to cold temps, so I had them replace those as well (replaced on 2/20). I fully expect that they will continue to crack in cold weather, so I will request replacement as frequently as I find new cracks. Not that this will be a long-term solution, but I figure 15-20 replacements before the 3/36 is up should be sufficient to help Subaru to consider using higher quality, more durable materials on future models. It is amazing how a manufacturer can regress over the years. Shift in focus, I suppose (no pun intended... really!).

    What else? Oh, yes, the radio blipped out on me again Tuesday (2/20) when I started it at -20F. Not surprised there. I am all but convinced it is a result of the marginal OEM battery. I will look to replace it with something decent by next winter. I could either pay $60+ for a "battery blanket" to nurse this marginal battery or pay $90 for a good battery and skip the blanket. Hmm.... decisions.... :P I did not use the radio yet today, so not sure if it did it again this morning.

    And, headlight assemblies..... will update that one in the dedicated thread.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
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