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Kia Sportage Maintenance and Repair



  • Can anyone tell me how the free wheeling hubs work on my 2000 manual transmission Sportage . My 4 X 4 doesn't engage at the wheels. The driveshaft is turning to the front differential, and I have axle movement. I jacked up the front end and there is no connection with the hubs and axle. I pulled the hubs off and disassembled them and cleaned them but can't figure out how they work. The gears and spring are free and appear to be in good condition. How does the spocket inside make a connection with the mating gear, if the spring is pushing between them??? What am I missing. Any help would be appreciated
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    According to your description, you have the original equipment vacuum activated hubs(right, below).
    Hence, to test them as you say, your engine must be running!
    They are actuated by vacuum that comes through an electrically operated valve on left hand fender. THis valve comes on once the transfer case lever is fully moved to the 4wd position. At that time, solenoid is energized and vacuum from engine manifold is applied to the back of the hub piston (you must see hoses at the back of wheel bearing) and atmospheric pressure from the front (see vents on the hub) forces the piston in against the spring then engages "sprockets".
    THis system works beautifully when it works because it allows to engage "on the fly" because at the time the switch is activated, the shafts are already fully engaged and rotating at same speed as wheels, hence they engage without any danger of grinding. Similarly, when opting out of 4wd, hubs are released and you are driving fully with free wheeling front wheels .
    However, this system IS fragile and any leak in bearing seals and hoses or flawed operation of the vacuum solenoid will let you without 4WD and as most owners at this time having second hand SPortages, you had no control on the previous owner maintenance program..... so as most original series Sportage owners, you might end up converting to manual hubs or mechanical (cam activated) auto hubs. THis is another story, but some info here:
    link title
  • Hello all:

    I have a 2000 Kia Sportage. This morning after a 5 minute stop, I got back in the car and turned the heater on and its started making a loud whirling noise, sounded like something near the radiator? I have 107K on the vehicle. Any thoughts or suggestions, theres 4 inches of snow outside right now!!
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    ...and what happened when you turned the heater off?
    If this is stricly related to heater blower operation, it can be some stray leaves that got in a few weeks or months ago.
    However after a 5 minute stop , it is possible there was enough heat in the engine compartment to raise the A/C regrigerant pressure enough that it can be triggered ON if your heater was on DEF or mix DEF/FLOOR position...because these positions automatically turn the A/C on to help dehumidify the air and clear fog....and when a/c turns on, the electric cooling fan near the radiator turns ON too...and some ice debris might have accumulated in this area.......hence the noise.
    In the cold, normally, a/c will not kick in because refrigerant pressure is too low and the lo pressure switch inhibits its operation.
    By the way, on mine, I have pulled the heater controls out and removed the little switch inside that turns the A/C on without my consentment. I can use the normal a/c button when I want to. ( ON my other car, this function is computer I would have to endure..but then, in winter, I disconnect the pressure switch to be sure a/c never operates).
  • 1999 kia sportage started fine this morning, however after running for a few minutes it made a hissing noise and started pouring smoke out. The smoke wasn't from the radiator, it started from the driver's side up by the window. Any ideas what this may be and how to fix it?
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Too few details for an accurate diagnostic. A few avenues though:
    Slipping alternator belt is a frequently reported though not fully explained problem, as it usually defies tightening as a solution, anyway, open hood and check for that when it happens.
    Not applicable here, but I mention it to avoid this kind of search, is that when turning to cold weather, a coolant too lean with antifreeze could turn into ice and block water pump and make the pump belt slip: not applicable with this car cause the pump is driven by the timing belt with cogs...and it would rather break the pump impeller itself....which could nevertheless cause overheating, but very improbable.
    PLease mention where you is winter here, and ice on the exhaust pipe and catalyst could vaporize after a few minutes.....
    An oil leak ending up on the exhaust piping will generate lots of smoke but the smell will reveal its nature....but no "hiss" involved....
    Blocked catalytic have been reported with that kind of symptoms....but it is accompanied by degraded performance and is not on a sudden...
    So...may be a few more details will was the smoke "up by the window" inside or outside the car? :D :confuse:
    By the way, is the Check Engine Light ON ?
  • I am new to this site, but I have only this car and really gotta fix it.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Is the Check Engine Light ON?
  • You hit it right on the mark! The noise only stopped after I turned off the heater. The a/c was triggered on and the button was on the def/floor position. After I turned off the AC button, it stopped, but now when I press down on the gas pedal to go, it gives the same kind of whirling noise but at a much much smaller decibel.
  • my check engine light was already on. The smoke was coming from under the hood up by the driver's side. Close to the window. Yes it is winter here (Ohio), and I am worried that there was not enough anti-freeze in my radiator. I'm waiting on a space heater to warm up the garage. Although I let the car run for a bit before driving, it didn't seem to be warmed up. I drove only a short distance, but even when I got home it was still blowing cold air throough the vents. Think maybe its the heating coil or something to do with that? Man this stinks! I can't go outside to work on auto for a lilttle bit (children). So I don't have a lot more info.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    WIth the heater not working, if confirms either your fluid turned into ice and if you can enter it in the garage while engine is warms the heat may spread and thaw the ice in the heater system. Ice does not flow easily through the heater core :( . , or:
    the other option, and I hope it is not the case, is a blown head gasket or craked block due to freezing, but the first explanation is enough to explain your case.. FIrst make sure the whole car temperature runs above freezing point before anything else, test coolant and add antifreeze .
  • Thanks for your help. I'm going to try to get it into the garage. I'll keep you posted.
  • so far I have determined that the hoses coming from the radiator are not attached to anything. It looks like one goes into another tank, (maybe the reserve I don't know but what ever it is, it is empty!) and I have no clue where the other one goes. Any ideals? :confuse:
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    there are 2 large hoses..about 2 inches in diameter, and one small, about 1/2", goes to the reserve tank as you said.
    Top large hose passenger side goes to thermostat (Viewed from top in drawing below)
    Bottom large hose driver side returns to engine (Viewed from under in drawing below)
    if this image link dead use this one
  • Thank you. The one that goes to the reserve tank splits into two, do they both go into the reserve?
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    I do not see that on this drawing
    I will check in my car tomorrow......too cold to-nite.....
  • ok, I got the hoses all connected. Now I need to drain the radiator and fill it with anti-freeze. Just one little problem, I can't find the drain plug. Any chance anyone has a picture or something? Man its 9:00 and I'm still out in the cold trying to fix this thing. Lol....
  • Can't locate the drainage plug for the radiator. I have a 1999 kia sportage ex. Anyone know where it is?
  • is there a way to leave hub locked in until i can replace on my 99 sportage i live in maine and need 4 wheel drive and it wont lock in
  • I really appreciate your message-very helpful in deciding what to do. The cam type automatic hublock is actually an older style from what I can see. Can the cam type be fitted to the 2000 Kia? Also maybe this is not the way to go since I don't know how reliable the cam type is. Do you know of any after market parts that would work for my application.
    Again I reallly appreciate your info. I have looked in all sorts of books and none of them mention the vacuum free wheeling hubs. They are always refered to as free wheeling hubs and never illustrate how they work.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Drain cock shows in the first drawing :
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    The WARN cam type is the one availabe as after market replacement as referenced in the installation instructions I provided in previous post.. That is the one I have and it wirks flawlessly. If you do extreme off road, the manuals are better though.
    warn manual hubs: 60247
    warn auto hubs: 61918 (comes as a complete kit as illustrated in instruction sheet) check this link
    ANd yes, your vacuum type can be locked by dissassembling the hubs and simply moving the spring on the opposite side of the piston. THis will keep all the shafts turning full time, hence a little more drag, and you will have actual 4 or 2 wheel drive with the transfer case shifter.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188 not forget this is a part-time 4WD configuration (it has no differential between the rear and front driving shafts) and must NEVER be operated on 4WD on a dry surface for danger or overtorquing the drive train and specially the transfer case .
  • pootpoot Posts: 3
    I've got a 1995 Sportage 2.0 sohc 5 speed 4 x 4 that started hesitating about 1 year ago. When I say hesitate it's a flat spot akin to an older carb type engine. It's been a while since I checked the fuel pressure but I DO remember it was well within specs. But to be sure, I replaced the pump anyway and checked the tank strainer, replaced the fuel filter, ran thru a few bottles of injector cleaner over time, replaced the throttle pos. sensor, cleaned the throtle body, replaced the mass air flow meter, air filter, wires, and plugs. IT STILL HESITATES!!! Do ANYONE have an idea what the cause might be?! This is VERY aggrivating to drive but other then this it runs good and get's 25mpg.
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    I went to start my car last night and took it out of 4 wheel drive and started to back up then i heard what sounded like the tires being stuck in ice then the check engine light popped on. So i backed up a little shut the car off then started it again hoping maybe the light would go off but it didn't. However, i got out of the car and saw what looked like a burst of oil where my car first was before i moved it then i loked under it and saw what looked like oil dripping from under the car. I then checked the oil and it seemed fine (i will check again later tonight after it has set for awhile). I also looked around the engine while i was checking the oil and saw what looked like oil by the oil filter and the filter was tight and no new oil on it. I was just ondering if anyone had any ideas of what it may be. Or if anyone has had a similiar experience. thanks... I guess i should mention it is a manual transmission as well.. sorry about that
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    -sounded like the tires being stuck in ice (well, this is possible: I can understand you have winter where you live..)
    -check engine light popped on
    -oil dripping from under the car
    puzzling....!??...these look like three unrelated events ..
    I understand it is the check engine light that popped on, not the oil pressure light..right?

    Can you have the code read?
    Did you try restarting tha car and how does it behave?
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Really puzzling indeed....YOu have done all what the inital suggestions would have been ....
    I also understand you have no Check Engine Light this is a '95, it is probably OBD1 and there is a way to flash the codes, if any...but of course, OBD1 has limited capabilities......
    NOne of the options below is clearly defined by your description, but:

    Ever considered catalytic blockage? This has been linked to similar symptoms in several occasions: it acts mostly when trying to accelerate at wide throttle opening as there is an added exhaust volume to handle..then at steady road speed, the problem seems to be gone..

    What is mileage of engine and was timing belt changed before? I think the SOHC is less prone than the DOHC to belt failure/slippage, but it has limits too and I'd go for this check , just to be sure nothing is left in the unknown.
    Another possibility - rare but verified on another car - would be a failed or shorted temperature sensor that then indicates a warmer temperature: this would lean the mixture, cause knocking, and then the knock sensor would retard timing, all that would cause symptoms that could match your description. However, such a failure would make starting rather difficult in the cold, so I'd rather dismiss this cue, but....just for the record....
  • Does any one know where I can find a manual or how to put the timing back in my Kia? Also need to know about torque specs for Head on a 2.0L engine and sequence. If anybody knows the answer or a good website to find this stuff please let me know!!!
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Check this out: Online Repair Manuals

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    Well i started the car this morning to warm it up and let the windows defrost for about 5 minutes and when i came out there was a pool of oil under the car so i took my roommates car, also the dipstick before i started it showed low. Then when i got home form work i check the oil again seeing as the car had plenty of time to set and it was almost empty. I am thinking maybe i burst a gasket or possibly the oil pump possibly went seeing as it only leaks when the car is running.
    As for checking the codes i am not sure how to do that on the kia i am used to having a honda where i am able to use a paper clip..
    And the oil light is still not on, that i do not understand myself. However the check engine light is on and that puzzles me as well..
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