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Comments
That is almost "normal" as the return grounds for dash and blower are common and slight variation is expected. WHen the ground connection goes awry, the variation worsens.
is there anything else i would notice if the head gasket was blown.
in SOME cases, coolant spills in a cylinder when the car is stopped and is ejected in the exhaust manifold at start-up and this produces a short duration heavy white cloud at startup ....THis is somewhat confusing in cold weather because it is difficult to make the difference with what we already experience. HOwever when it shows in warm weather, the difference is more conspicuous. But absence of such cloud is not a sign that the problem does not exist.
If the coolant spill invades the oil pan, the inside of oil cap will be covered with a disgusting white-brownish foamy sludge. But many times , specially when the leak is not severe, it happens only when the engine runs and exhaust goes from the cylinder to the cooling system.. However, when a car is run only for short treks in very cold temperatures, stray water vapour as a combustion product is not readily evaporated by high heat and accumulates and can generate some foamy goo...and that would stop showing in the summer.
draining the oil pan might show traces of coolant
The car will require topping the coolant tank almost daily
Irregular heat flow from heater and erratic temp needle are telltale signs....
-"intestinal" noises (borborygmi) in the heater system
GOing for a head gasket replacement is something one wants not to think of and this is why when I suspect such, I want a sure proof and the compressed air test is really a go-nogo clue. IF compressed air into a cylinder generates bubbles at the radiator cap, you have no choice. ...just starting the engine with the fuel pump relay disconnected might be able to pump air through a leak and bring bubbles at radiator because of the compression cycle in cylinders...but I do not like the noise and strain on starter and battery and the result is less conspicuous...so I prefer to use externally compressed air. My late Dodge Omni was a regular user of that test....but the spark plugs were an easy reach...
Several would prefer to try everything else and many go to large expenses to avoid this operation and a few in the forums changed radiators, water pump, thermostat of course, installed a larger electric fan.....sometimes this procures some extra cooling margin but if the head gasket was failed, all of this ended up as waisted expenses added to the replacement cost...so I would go no farther than low cost "tests" like checking the radiator hoses for internal peeling ...rare but just to be sure .. even try a radiator flushing agent... and as I said, running the car WITHOUT a thermostat because a totally free flow might make coolant circulation to radiator easier to be seen.
My first choice would be the unambiguous compressed air testing: if it proves positive...you will have some of the work already done. Somewhere I had written a "procedure" for spark plugs replacement...will look for....
yeah...here
If the coolant spill invades the oil pan, the inside of oil cap
I'm talking of the oil filler cap....
We did the test it is not the fuel pump, running out of ideas. Does any one have suggestions
OK then for fuel supply. What about the other tests I suggested in my first reply:
WHen voltage runs low (for alternator problem) engine starts being erratic : injectors do not fire, spark is poor, ..and battery runs down. Use a voltmeter and test battery voltage with engine running (14.2-14.7)
There have been cases of blocked catalyser...disconnect exhaust and run a test with a lot of noise..(That's fun)...
ALso, I cannot dismiss the possibility of the timing belt having jumped a cog or 2, so I'd certainly verify that. You said it had been changed...when?
Is the Check ENgine Light ON? And if so, retreive codes and post them.
YOU said it lacks power...can you describe that with more details? DOes the engine start well?
IS it a manual or automatic? If an auto, do you start from standstill with the HOLD light ON? (this starts in 2nd gear., quite mushy.).
Thanks
turned on the heat it dropped back below half.
then ..the guage shot all the way down below cold then started dancing around
when i would come to a stop it would just drop again.. any ideas
That was one of symptoms I already described as associated with exhaust invasion of cooling system due to a blown head gasket. THis is what "burps" the system.
I told you many ways to check specifically for this...I think this relieves you from more testing. Most obviously, you have a blown head gasket.
Article On Oxygen Sensor Codes For Help With This Kia Check Engine Light Code
PLease indicate year model.
THis indicates computer tries to correct for mixture past its available range. THere is a problem with the fuel delivery system. DO you have other symptoms?
Did you have this car for a long time? DO you compare the performance to this same car as you knew it before, or to other cars you are used to drive? Objectively, this engine has no torque at low rpm ...so what you say is not very different from its "normal" behaviour....that is why I want to know your base for comparison....
I had asked you to confirm you do not start with the HOLD light on...
I think the catalytic converter in the front needs to be replaced. A mechanic in my church will do the work for free, only $200 for the part. Does anyone know, the repair shop told me theres a front catalytic converter and a rear one? Is that true? Six months ago the check engine light on and the codes showed a leak in the EVAP system. Thanks.
I don't know what the name of it is, but there's a wire in the back of the engine, a little left of the center, that when moved simulated the shaking and stalling I was going through. When we moved it, the shaking stopped. We zip tied it, and replaced it. Car ran fine for two days, and now it's doing the same thing again. I'm absolutely furious about this. My job is very strict about coming in on time, and me being without a car is going to cause me to lose my job. I need some help with this, and a friend of mine works on cars all the time cannot figure this out at all.
I'm stuck. Help if you can.
I do not believe in miracles...and I always wonder how these "stopleak" agents know what to plug, and what not. ILve never used them and would not, but I know some did...and checked their problem for a while, while others ended up with a clogged radiator or heater core that they had to change on top of the head gasket.....if the instant return on probability of success is worth it, calculate your odds..but in the end, the head gasket will have to be done. I understand proper (or improper) timing can be a factor.
THIs car gasket change is not such a tedious job as access is not that bad and I think some trusted mechanic can do it for much less. $1500 is what it takes to do both heads on a GM 3.4 when half of the car has to be taken out or the engine subframe lowered down and out.....so same amount is out of proportion for a Sporty.
Details on year , model, engine type , color of wire . ANy code available?
What were the starting elements for this conclusion?
Yes there are 2 cats.
Leak codes for EVAP system are quite common.....and they come and go for no reason...anyway, check all hoses to the evap can and solenoid valve on right fender and keep fuel fill cap tight.
- My fist suspicion is still about belt/cam timing....may be it was double checked, may be not... but I would not go investigating a lot of other possible factors unless I'm 100% positively categorically sure this item is OK.....
I believe this was a RECALL by KIA ..you can check this at www.car.com (think they list that recall there)..
2 connectors go to YOUR COIL PACKS..Kia says C123 and C124 CONNECTORS come loose from engine vibration and make this car stall and run rough..you can wire tie them at both ends..but I taped mine REALLY tight with ELECTRICAL wire so the connectors would NOt come loose again..KIA should replace these for free if you can find the recall info.
These (connector) wires are connected to a RED and WHITE wires(inside the connector) that fire your coils..GOOD LUCK! Let me know how things go ~
I think the catalytic converter in the front needs to be replaced. A mechanic in my church will do the work for free, only $200 for the part. Does anyone know, the repair shop told me theres a front catalytic converter and a rear one?
Here is one
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/98-02-kia-sportage-manifold-catalytic-converter-u- pper_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33629QQihZ001QQitemZ110229830518QQrdZ1QQsspagena- meZWDVW
HOwever, check this photo
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg246/avigex/frontcat.jpg
as it seems some come with the front pipe, others not....
ALthough head gaskets failure is not a common issue with that engine, some cases are reported and what you mentioned trigs my caution.....At least, I'd fill the radiator to the rim when cold, leave cap off then run the engine and look for bubbles coming out the rad ..some lost "air" bubbles might escape at first...but if a continuous supply of bubbles come, that means exhaust invasion and a blown head gasket.
Also, check for fluctuating temp needle when you run the car on the road, and for continuous heat output form the heater. Random heater output (turns cold, then warm...might be accompanied by borborythms) is sign of blown gasket.
Other than that, there is the common issue of front hubs going haywire, but this is easy to solve for 200$ ...a common problem that is not a no-no.
..and the little beast is fun to drive....specially with a manual...
TPS makes sense. THis is not an expensive item and it is easy to change. I would not dismiss that indication. Failed TPS will cause jerk and buck....Pay attention to connectors.
O2 will have effect once car it up to temperature..because it is out of the loop when cold. It depends which code: hi or lo O2 readings can be caused by other factors, like failed injectors, as well as O2 sensor and connectors. O2 heater code is a problem with the sensor itself or connectors.
THe most ..and, in fact, the only probable cause for overtorquing the transfer case is running on dry pavement with the 4WD engaged. THis 4x4 is labelled "part time 4WD" and MUST NEVER ..never never...be run on asphalt in 4x4 because it has no differential between front and rear drive shafts and any difference in front and rear wheel speed (like when turning) will overstress the transfer case with the eventual result you describe.
Sorry that happens after $1700.
Look for salvage yards for a replacement T-case...even e-bay, may be,...and come back for further info as you wish. Please also state what type of new hubs were installed as there are special precautions in using the auto-mechanical type for the sake of the hubs themselves (as opposed to the original vacuum type).
I looked in thinking I can change a simple light bulb. WRONG! The area is so packed with stuff that I can't even identify where the connector or housing is for this light. I sure don't want to go to a dealer and spend $40 or more just to replace a light bulb.
Can anyone help? PLEASE....
..if that happened right after the wheel bearing change, I could have suspected the wheel bearing was adjusted too tight..and that can cause a wheel bearing to seize, I've seen it happen... but this is not dependant of running in 4WD..so it should have occurred before...
....just confirm nothing was changed in the front differerential...($1700....that must cover a lot of parts...???_...I can't imagine someone might have replaced the differential with the wrong ratio....which would be relevant of causing havoc as soon as 4WD is engaged...but this would be almost not imaginable....(.I'm just thinking out loud...)
..is it possible the front driving shaft (between t-case and differential) got loose ?
DO you use oversize tires?...
Can you take photos of the underneath?
..??? part number for the hubs are unknown to me...usually the original hubs are changed to Warn auto-mechanical, which involve changing the spindle nuts..the one that keep the bearing properly tight..so this info can be related ..as the spindle nut has to be blocked by a key: if the key was forgotten, there is a possibility that engaging the 4WD would force the spindle nut on right side ...to get tighter and seize the bearing...this is speculation at this point, but I would certainly check if the spindle nut key was properly installed....you should then have felt a sudden braking effect as the bearing seized...
Other than that....I'm left with a freak incident....but... that occurred after work was performed on these components..of course, it leads to thinking there is some connection.....an unwanted number of aircraft accidents or incidents occur just after the plane went through maintenance....so......
At this moment, can you move the vehicle ?
What is the condition of the t-case? is it visibly cracked ?
IN any case, keep us informed of the development...
..
YOu have to take the headlight cluster out to change that bulb. Check this out that I picked up from KIa website.
You can register at www.kiatechinfo.com and browse through and download almost anything about your car.
..so, it was indeed possible the front driving shaft (between t-case and differential) got loose !
....obviously at the differential ! I can imagine the thump that followed and the result is consequential. But I have just changed a U-joint on that driving shaft 2 months ago, and cannot imagine it would "break" by itself, rust or anything else. ...it it broke, that means one part is still BOLTED to the differential.....is it? Hard to speculate from here, but I'd like to see the photos...
My U-joint had given sign of fatigue a L O N G time ago, vibrations and noise when in 4WD...and since it was used only for brief episodes, I would not care much but around last Christmas, it became really scary and the vibration was intolerable an potentially a risk for other components and with winter just beginning, then I changed it....all this just to signal it does not come "on a sudden".....Of course, when installing the driving shaft back on the car, I made sure all bolts were properly tightened.....
Click on the My CarSpace tab up top to get started. It's all free btw.
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...wow.. it did snap off with a bang....even the bracket was torn off the sub frame...
...
....where was the driving shaft after the car stopped ? ANd in how many pieces? It shows as assembled in this picture,..
.were the two parts put together after the fact....? May be I'm "paranoid"...but if all of it was found on the ground, in 1 or in 2 separate parts, it did separate from the differential first...
THis is just such an unusual event ......the few times I saw that..on other cars..it was because one end got loose for the bolts had fallen...I think is almost impossible it "snapped" like that just on engine torque...and anyway, just snapping at that end should not have caused much damage...
".....it looks like the driveshaft got pushed back into the t-case"
confirming the interpretation that the shaft separated at the differential first....
I think the event is not a "freak"....
If you intent to ask for some compenstion for this damage that should not have occured after a $1700 repair, you must be able to answer to these questions:
- was the whole driving shaft on the ground after the "incident" ? (I'm quite sure it was, but you have to remember it as a fact you verified yourself or somone else can testify)
-had the driving shaft been removed from the differential to perform the repairs in the front ? (implying it can have been installed back with bolts improperly tightened)
Can you take a picture of the OTHER end of the driving shaft and the differential flange that normally connects to the driving shaft ?