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Comments
...that lets me think it acts as from the rev limiter....most cars would not let run the engine at high RPM when in neutral or park and it cuts the ignition or injection to a number of cylinders...but all returns to normal if engine is loaded in any of the drive ranges...but then the transmission encoder must tell the computer that it is NOT in neutral....and that directs the attention again to the plugs and witing connected to the transmission...but this is just speculation at this point though.
HOwever, I would find the 3000 rpm "limit" somewhat low, even in neutral, for that engine that revs easily over 5500 rpm. It is OK with my GM 3.8 that barely revs 4500 rpm before suffocation (but compared to SPorty, this one HAS tremendous low end torque...)....anyway, I'll see if I cand find more about that issue....
First, the reserve tank on my radiator empties very quickly and when it's empty it causes smoke to come out from under the hood. I really don't know what is causing it to empty so quickly which causes it to over heat. I'm heading to Florida Thursday and need to resolve it quickly and cheaply!
Thanks for any help!
I need to know what can cause this and possibly how to inexpensively fix it!
Thank you!
I need to know how to remove the interior door panels (I have a two door) for two reasons.
1) I need to replace the speakers that are in the door
2) The passenger side won't open from the inside and needs the handle repaired
thanks for any help....much appreciated!
Overheating: this looks very much like a blown head gasket....a rather frequent issue; you can open radiator cap, fill to top, run engine an d look for bubbles...bubbles are an almost certain sign of blown gasket. More sophisticated tset is to go for a CO2 test from radiator cap.......specialty shops have that. YOu can also have a compression test , a little awkward because of all the stuff you must remove to get to the spark plugs, but not that difficult.
Water on floor is due to clogged A/C evaporator drain tube. Water condenses on evap and this is normal, but normally it drains outside. I think one can find the exit fro underneath and apply vacuum to pull the dirt...or use compressed air...this would throw the dirt inside the ducts....but maybe better than water on the floor.
THIS out.
..you mean it stalls at a red light just like a manual when you would stop without depressing the clutch..??....I suppose it does not happen just when you start with the car initially, but just after you have driven it for a little while...please confirm and add details if my interpretation is incorrect.
THis would be a symptom of stuck Torque converter clutch...(TCC). One way to test it is to disconnect the TCC signal so it does not apply . This would mean disconnecting the BLU/BLK wire from the transmission connector (pin 2). If this makes the symptom disappears, then you have a problem within transmission, most probably the TCC solenoid. you can choose to run without TCC for as long as you want, there is no problem other than a slight fuel burn penalty...and the check engine light coming ON.
Report findings.
I thought it might be a leak but I have checked and found nothing. I did have a leak before about a month and a hlf ago and some of the radiator fluid spilled out onto other parts of the vehicle. But ever since it was fixed I have had no signs of leaks.
Also the temperature was cool enough to see your breath and the exhaust coming from vehicles ahead of me.
Is there another possibility.
Its a 2000 Sportage
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
My belt got squeaky when it happened and after I drove off it stopped when I came to the next red light.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Do any sensors have the potential to block power to the relay through their own failure?
Or is the main computer bad? Or a bad ground somewhere? All other electrical functions work.
Which is more likely?
Me neither! But you said the pump functions correctly when removed and the battery/relays are okay so I'm wondering whether all the connections are good. Regarding sensor or electronic control modules being at fault, I suppose that's possible. Perhaps someone with hands on experience would care to jump in and offer some advice. Anyone?
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Missing 12V at the FP coil means something is lost somewhere.
fuel pump circuit
There have been cases of ignition key failure...so some means to check for that should come first, just in case.
The second time, they blamed the owner (me) for installing a keyless entry system and causing some electrical "gremlin". So I removed the keyless entry leaving no spliced wires or anything else changed from the original factory configuration. No difference.
The best way to get it to start is to turn the key on and off 3 times before trying to start it. I'm hoping that's a useful clue for some of you experienced folks who know these cars. I usually work on old trucks, cars, and motorcycles and so have little experience with modern vehicles. I've tried to avoid vehicles with interference engines, Gilmer belt cam drives, McPherson struts, CV joints, computers, and other things that seem to be maintenance headaches, but this was the vehicle my wife wanted.
Any hints, hypotheses or suggestions?
Thanks
..mmm...I think you would rather drive a bike....but I also find carbs and ignition breaker points were easy to cope with....though I must admit that all of the present day contraptions are really fine when they act according to plans....
..so.....no experience with the 09 model....but I would investigate , just to be sure, in the direction of Mass Airflow Sensor , Idle Air control valve and Coolant temp sensor.......at least to clear these options out.....
My first idea was the ECTS (engine coolant temp sensor) since the problem was initially limited to cold starts and the engine seems too lean to start (I used the old timer's technique of sniffing the tailpipe when my wife cranked the engine...I could hear it fire and stumble but smelled no fuel in the exhaust). But then, it began to be intermittently difficult to start warm as well as cold. I haven't put the ohmmeter on the ECTS yet since it's difficult to reach in there and disconnect the plug.
The odd thing about the symptoms is that it runs perfectly once it starts. No stalling, no hesitation, no loping, fuel economy about 21mpg in local driving. Would that be the case with a faulty mass airflow sensor, idle air control valve, or coolant temp sensor? I just don't have much experience with these modern fuel injection systems. Is there some kind of starting enrichment system? If so, I suspect it would be some kind of code in the ECM that determines how wide a pulse to give each electronic fuel injector at startup, wouldn't it?
Any ideas are welcome!
Coolant temp sensor has a very large influence on mixture, and if the sensor is "shorted" due to wiring or internal failure, it looks as a warm/hot engine and starting cold will be difficult. IN fact, will it start OK once warmed up? And just being or seeming "warm" within limits will not pop a code....Just disconnecting this sensor, once you reach at it, would read "open", equivalent to cold, and this would force a rich mixture.
ALso, the fuel pump and ECM normally feed a long pulse at initial startup as a primer....THis new SPorty/Tuckson is unknown to me, but the old model would run the fuel pump only WHILE starting, once it reads either cam or crank sensor pulses, ...so no way to hear the pump at KEY ON like my Pontiac Transport.......
...report findings...
I stuck my head under the fuel tank and used another sensor (ears) when my wife started the vehicle yesterday. Sure enough, at "key on", I heard the fuel pump run for several seconds. I still don't have a way to confirm pressure at the fuel rail. There are a couple specialty tools in the manual (G03821634 and G03821635) that appear to adapt a standard pressure guage to the fuel rail. I haven't had time to determine what thread size the cap is on the end of the fuel rail. I suspect it isn't a thread pattern I'm likely to have around the house...it's fairly large in diameter.
We have an old Sportage (4WD 5-speed) in the Philippines (a '98) but it has a 2.0L diesel engine purportedly made by Mazda, so nothing I've learned about that beast that would apply to the 2008. It would be a blast to try to drive it here in the U.S. It has 70 HP which is sufficient for those congested roads but it does struggle to climb hills. However, in 4WD, it will go about anywhere including through deep mud. We bought the '08 because I've been so impressed by the ruggedness of that old diesel Sporty.
I'll try again to find a way to disconnect the coolant temp sensor and see how the vehicle starts. However, with it starting quite well the past few days, that may not be very informative.
Thanks again for your guidance.
link title
...timing belt idler and tensioner bearings have been reported to generate weird noises.....
..and exhaust system is a common source of bumping and rattling noises....
I have an '06 with a 2.7 and auto trans. I drive almost 1000 miles a week and have 111,000 miles on the clock. I'll start with the noise as it has me completely baffled.
It started about a month ago. It only happens in gear with the air on when stopped with it in drive, but not all the time. It almost sounds like a rod knocking but a bit more intermittent and it is on the passenger side. Turn the air off and it stops. The compressor and clutch check out fine. Pop it in neutral and it stops, accelerate and it stops. Could this possibly be the tranny pump? The fluid has been changed at 50 and 100K and was not burned or very discolored either time. The tranny is not slipping and shifts smooth. Of course no mechanic can get it to reproduce the sound when I take it in.
The starting issue just happened yesterday. When cold it starts with the first turn of the key. After driving and setting for an hour or so it won't start very easy. I have hit the key 4 times before it will start. Once started it runs fine with no hesitation or missing. The check engine light is not on. The fuel pump is not giving the "whine of death" that usually accompanies a bad pump.
I have had to do nothing to this vehicle other than oil changes and a set of tires. I know I should have at least changed the plugs and wires but there never was a sign of need to. So this is where I started. I pulled the front bank out and the plugs were not really all that bad, but I replaced them and the wires all the same. How in the heck do you get to rear bank? The intake plenum appears to sit on top of the plugs. The mechanic claims his book calls for 1.2 hours to do a plug and wire change. There must be a trick to getting the rear bank plugs out. I don't believe they can R&R the intake and change plugs and wires in 1.2 hours. Of course he won't tell me any secrets. Any ideas?
This is my second Sportage. I had an '01 that I put 170K on with no mechanical problems and traded it in on this one. I really have no complaints with Sportages. These two issues are annoyances more than problems.
Any info would helpful.
Thanks
test
i have replaced alot of parts on the car still something is wrong when you step on the gas it goes to the floor but the car barely moves it takes forever to get to 25mph but after you do you are okay until you have to stop again then it does the same thing until you get up to 25mph again if you have to stop it will bog down like it is going to stall and sometimes it does i dont know what is wrong i spent alot of money on a timing belt and o 2 censers please help i love my kia :confuse: