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Kia Sportage Maintenance and Repair

1911131415

Comments

  • andy91andy91 Posts: 6
    Update. I dropped the kia off at a shop at lunch time and they called me back and said it was the ECM computer... Kia has a 80k mile or 8 year coverage on the ecm.. Missed by the years by 6 months.. My luck.. Thanks for your help...
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    ..come back to tell of the outcome....
  • andy91andy91 Posts: 6
    I have a question? Where is the ecm located? I found one box under the dash next to the steering column named Unit-Cont ECAT wt005728 / 954404Z110 (Silver metal small box.. Found another one under the radio mounted to a bracket named ECU-ETWIS - OK07E67720 (Small black plastic box).. Found one under the floor mat on passager side named Control Unit, EGI K07A Cal,Fed 1268301783 (Large silver metal box, This last ne seems to be the one. It has the largest amount of wires then the other ones.
  • jmanselljmansell Posts: 5
    I took the exhaust off first when we started having problems. When we rev it up we can't get it over 3000 rpms if we do it pops a code multiple missfires and miss 1,3,4 should i check the injectors??? that might be part of it but it runs fine in 1st thru 3rd, maybe the trannys bad to any Ideas????
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    When we rev it up we can't get it over 3000 rpms if we do it pops a code multiple missfires and miss 1,3,4
    ...that lets me think it acts as from the rev limiter....most cars would not let run the engine at high RPM when in neutral or park and it cuts the ignition or injection to a number of cylinders...but all returns to normal if engine is loaded in any of the drive ranges...but then the transmission encoder must tell the computer that it is NOT in neutral....and that directs the attention again to the plugs and witing connected to the transmission...but this is just speculation at this point though.
    HOwever, I would find the 3000 rpm "limit" somewhat low, even in neutral, for that engine that revs easily over 5500 rpm. It is OK with my GM 3.8 that barely revs 4500 rpm before suffocation (but compared to SPorty, this one HAS tremendous low end torque...)....anyway, I'll see if I cand find more about that issue....
  • amkcwamkcw Posts: 3
    My 99 sportage started idleing rough, eng light came on. I finally got it over to get the codes checked. It was p0301(cyl 1 misfire) Here is what is stumping me, it runs fine when its cold after it warms up it starts to misfire. If I let it cool back down it starts normal. Anyone have any ideas? It is driving me crazy!!!!
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    ..first step is to go for that (and other) spark plug(s)...and specially the wire from the rear coil pack. THis is a very common issue. Did you change spark plugs before?..somewhat annoying because of what you need to remove...but not that difficult. Check for oil contamination in plug #4....in which case you would also have to remove the cam cover and change gasket....also a common issue.
  • Its time for the first oil change. What oil 5w-30 and filter do you guys recommend :confuse:
  • jst4himjst4him Posts: 3
    Hi everyone! I'm new and I have three questions and will post them separately.

    First, the reserve tank on my radiator empties very quickly and when it's empty it causes smoke to come out from under the hood. I really don't know what is causing it to empty so quickly which causes it to over heat. I'm heading to Florida Thursday and need to resolve it quickly and cheaply!

    Thanks for any help!
  • jst4himjst4him Posts: 3
    This question pertains to when we ran the AC on the way to Florida in December the passenger floor board was saturated with water.

    I need to know what can cause this and possibly how to inexpensively fix it!

    Thank you!
  • jst4himjst4him Posts: 3
    Ok my last question for now and this one is really for two reasons.

    I need to know how to remove the interior door panels (I have a two door) for two reasons.

    1) I need to replace the speakers that are in the door
    2) The passenger side won't open from the inside and needs the handle repaired

    thanks for any help....much appreciated!
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    2 questions, one reply:
    Overheating: this looks very much like a blown head gasket....a rather frequent issue; you can open radiator cap, fill to top, run engine an d look for bubbles...bubbles are an almost certain sign of blown gasket. More sophisticated tset is to go for a CO2 test from radiator cap.......specialty shops have that. YOu can also have a compression test , a little awkward because of all the stuff you must remove to get to the spark plugs, but not that difficult.
    Water on floor is due to clogged A/C evaporator drain tube. Water condenses on evap and this is normal, but normally it drains outside. I think one can find the exit fro underneath and apply vacuum to pull the dirt...or use compressed air...this would throw the dirt inside the ducts....but maybe better than water on the floor.
  • hab526hab526 Posts: 2
    Where is it and what is it?? Because it just cost me a $100.00 at the dealer.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    check
    THIS out.
  • hab526hab526 Posts: 2
    :confuse: how do I get to the answer that you left
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    JUst click THIS (in previous post). It should open the link....
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    It helps if you can summarize the issue since links die and sometimes don't work for people.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Location of drain hose (thanks to contributors listed in above link) protrudes low from firewall, right side, located on the plastic housing near the bottom in the engine compartment:
    image
    image
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    Thanks!
  • hth04hth04 Posts: 1
    Oh my, well I need help because my car has stopped working again. I read some of the other discussions and they pertain to my vehicle. The dealership never knows what wrong. Right now it revs when in neutral (that is how i use to get through stop lights and signs) but when i put it in drive it just dies. Do you have any suggestions on what might be wrong? We have already had alot of work done on it about 4 months ago.(replaced computer, gas tank, and others I can't remember)
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Can you indicate what modelyear you are talking about?...reply below is relevant of 1997-2000...ahh OK..your duplicate post said 97...
    ..you mean it stalls at a red light just like a manual when you would stop without depressing the clutch..??....I suppose it does not happen just when you start with the car initially, but just after you have driven it for a little while...please confirm and add details if my interpretation is incorrect.
    THis would be a symptom of stuck Torque converter clutch...(TCC). One way to test it is to disconnect the TCC signal so it does not apply . This would mean disconnecting the BLU/BLK wire from the transmission connector (pin 2). If this makes the symptom disappears, then you have a problem within transmission, most probably the TCC solenoid. you can choose to run without TCC for as long as you want, there is no problem other than a slight fuel burn penalty...and the check engine light coming ON.
    Report findings.
    image
  • andy91andy91 Posts: 6
    Ok kia check engine light is fixed. It was the computer that had gone bad making the engine misfire on cylinders 2,3,4 periodically. Instead of buying a 695.00 new one I got a salvaged one and it has been running great for the past two weeks.. Thanks for all the help.
  • jomojrjomojr Posts: 1
    This same thing just happened on my 99 sportage. Im going to be looking into it tomorrow. My dash lights, marker light, and tail lights are all out. My headlamps, turn signals, and brake lights work fine.
  • I have noticed a couple times when I am stopped at a red light or somewhere I stay still that once and a while steam comes out from under my hood.
    I thought it might be a leak but I have checked and found nothing. I did have a leak before about a month and a hlf ago and some of the radiator fluid spilled out onto other parts of the vehicle. But ever since it was fixed I have had no signs of leaks.
    Also the temperature was cool enough to see your breath and the exhaust coming from vehicles ahead of me.
    Is there another possibility.
    Its a 2000 Sportage
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    By any chance, were the roads wet?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • Slightly, I thought maybe tires might have been kicking water up, but I had been in a drive thru when it happened most recently and it didnt do it at first or not noticeably until I had been there for a few minutes.
    My belt got squeaky when it happened and after I drove off it stopped when I came to the next red light.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    If there is nothing leaking and you're seeing vapor then it's likely being caused by water from an external source coming in contact with the hot engine. Have you examined the engine compartment for signs of water accumulation?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • Since Oct of 2008 I have been trying to solve this problem. A buzzing noise starts in the area of the transmission and starts surging while decelerating or accelerating. If I do nothing it will eventually die but has always started up again. I have had the engine and transmission computer changed out. Still did it. Replace the switch relay. Same thing. Anyone had a similar experience and how did you fix it. Run it off a cliff?
  • yusif51yusif51 Posts: 1
    when do you get a tune-up on kia 2007 sportage
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    Check the Edmunds Maintenance Guide for maintenance schedules.
  • gjangjan Posts: 3
    My 1998 Kia Sportage fule pump will not run. The pump tests ok out of the car, the relays have been replaced, but the pump doesn't run. Any idea what to look for next?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Have you test whether power is getting to the pump when it's in the car?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • gjangjan Posts: 3
    Yup it's not. I tested at the under-hood fuse box where the fuel pump relay is. The fuel pump relay port only shows power on one terminal always. Nothing showing on others when key turned on or cranking.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    That suggests there is a problem with the pump's electrical connections. Does yours have some kind of electrical plug?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • gjangjan Posts: 3
    Not sure where you're going...I ran the relay test described elsewhere at Edmunds, and found that, since the only place I have power to the relays is the constant power terminal, no other terminal has power at key position "On" or ignition, that the indication would be that the failure is someplace between battery and relay. All fuses are good, so I'm wondering:
    Do any sensors have the potential to block power to the relay through their own failure?
    Or is the main computer bad? Or a bad ground somewhere? All other electrical functions work.
    Which is more likely?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Not sure where you're going...

    Me neither! But you said the pump functions correctly when removed and the battery/relays are okay so I'm wondering whether all the connections are good. Regarding sensor or electronic control modules being at fault, I suppose that's possible. Perhaps someone with hands on experience would care to jump in and offer some advice. Anyone?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    At KEY ON, you should have the fuel pump relay coil hot on one side. The ECM grounds the other side of coil. 12V is fed to FP relay coil from a green wire coming form the MAIN RELAY. Hence MAIN relay must operate first. ECM activates the main relay coil ground side.
    Missing 12V at the FP coil means something is lost somewhere.
    fuel pump circuit
    There have been cases of ignition key failure...so some means to check for that should come first, just in case.
  • buzzard40buzzard40 Posts: 3
    Our '08 Sportage LX 2WD 2.0L was operating perfectly at 740 miles since new (we bought it in 01/09). Then, it began to be difficult to start...somewhat worse when cold than when warm. No codes, no "check engine". It turns over fine but either doesn't fire or just stumbles as thought it's too lean to run. It went to the dealer twice. The first time, they replaced the fuel pump assembly...no difference. The service dept. said the fuel pressure was too low but apparently didn't test it again with the new pump installed. I don't have an adapter to put a guage on the fuel rail, so I don't know if the pressure is what it should be (nearly 50 psi)..

    The second time, they blamed the owner (me) for installing a keyless entry system and causing some electrical "gremlin". So I removed the keyless entry leaving no spliced wires or anything else changed from the original factory configuration. No difference.

    The best way to get it to start is to turn the key on and off 3 times before trying to start it. I'm hoping that's a useful clue for some of you experienced folks who know these cars. I usually work on old trucks, cars, and motorcycles and so have little experience with modern vehicles. I've tried to avoid vehicles with interference engines, Gilmer belt cam drives, McPherson struts, CV joints, computers, and other things that seem to be maintenance headaches, but this was the vehicle my wife wanted.

    Any hints, hypotheses or suggestions?
    Thanks
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    I've tried to avoid vehicles with interference engines, Gilmer belt cam drives, McPherson struts, CV joints, computers, and other things that seem to be maintenance headaches,
    ..mmm...I think you would rather drive a bike....but I also find carbs and ignition breaker points were easy to cope with....though I must admit that all of the present day contraptions are really fine when they act according to plans....
    ..so.....no experience with the 09 model....but I would investigate , just to be sure, in the direction of Mass Airflow Sensor , Idle Air control valve and Coolant temp sensor.......at least to clear these options out.....
  • buzzard40buzzard40 Posts: 3
    Thanks for your ideas Imp4. I agree...when these modern machines are running right, they're great.

    My first idea was the ECTS (engine coolant temp sensor) since the problem was initially limited to cold starts and the engine seems too lean to start (I used the old timer's technique of sniffing the tailpipe when my wife cranked the engine...I could hear it fire and stumble but smelled no fuel in the exhaust). But then, it began to be intermittently difficult to start warm as well as cold. I haven't put the ohmmeter on the ECTS yet since it's difficult to reach in there and disconnect the plug.

    The odd thing about the symptoms is that it runs perfectly once it starts. No stalling, no hesitation, no loping, fuel economy about 21mpg in local driving. Would that be the case with a faulty mass airflow sensor, idle air control valve, or coolant temp sensor? I just don't have much experience with these modern fuel injection systems. Is there some kind of starting enrichment system? If so, I suspect it would be some kind of code in the ECM that determines how wide a pulse to give each electronic fuel injector at startup, wouldn't it?

    Any ideas are welcome!
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Your remarks are to the point. OK, forget the MAF sensor...and yes, sniffing IS using a sensor....First generation sportage had losts of case of dirty idle air control valves...and on this, once started, the car would be fine, give or take some problems with idle stabilisation until warmed up.
    Coolant temp sensor has a very large influence on mixture, and if the sensor is "shorted" due to wiring or internal failure, it looks as a warm/hot engine and starting cold will be difficult. IN fact, will it start OK once warmed up? And just being or seeming "warm" within limits will not pop a code....Just disconnecting this sensor, once you reach at it, would read "open", equivalent to cold, and this would force a rich mixture.
    ALso, the fuel pump and ECM normally feed a long pulse at initial startup as a primer....THis new SPorty/Tuckson is unknown to me, but the old model would run the fuel pump only WHILE starting, once it reads either cam or crank sensor pulses, ...so no way to hear the pump at KEY ON like my Pontiac Transport.......
    ...report findings...
  • buzzard40buzzard40 Posts: 3
    Those are helpful comments and ideas...thanks. Lately, the vehicle has been starting quite well. At first, the problem was limited to cold starts so your ideas about the coolant temp sensor were in exact alignment with my hypothesis. But then, after I took the vehicle to the dealer (at bout 750 miles on the odometer), they couldn't start it hot or cold. Hmmm.

    I stuck my head under the fuel tank and used another sensor (ears) when my wife started the vehicle yesterday. Sure enough, at "key on", I heard the fuel pump run for several seconds. I still don't have a way to confirm pressure at the fuel rail. There are a couple specialty tools in the manual (G03821634 and G03821635) that appear to adapt a standard pressure guage to the fuel rail. I haven't had time to determine what thread size the cap is on the end of the fuel rail. I suspect it isn't a thread pattern I'm likely to have around the house...it's fairly large in diameter.

    We have an old Sportage (4WD 5-speed) in the Philippines (a '98) but it has a 2.0L diesel engine purportedly made by Mazda, so nothing I've learned about that beast that would apply to the 2008. It would be a blast to try to drive it here in the U.S. It has 70 HP which is sufficient for those congested roads but it does struggle to climb hills. However, in 4WD, it will go about anywhere including through deep mud. We bought the '08 because I've been so impressed by the ruggedness of that old diesel Sporty.

    I'll try again to find a way to disconnect the coolant temp sensor and see how the vehicle starts. However, with it starting quite well the past few days, that may not be very informative.

    Thanks again for your guidance.
  • margnmargn Posts: 2
    I had my 2002 serviced and they replaced the fan just prior to it melting as well. They will replace it for you also, since it was on the RECALL list. Check with your local dealer.
  • margnmargn Posts: 2
    My 02 has a bad noise in the morning when I start it up. It is worse after it has rained, for some reason. I have had all the maintenance done and the belts have all been replaced. The dealership cannot figure out what the noice is. Also just within a day or so, the car has started to make a BUMPING noice when I hit a bump in the road. I thought at first the spare tire mount was loose, and took it in to be checked. They found everything is tight and nothing is loose. I was told by a friend, that possible a stablizer bar could be broken. What is that? and approximately what would it cost to fix. My car only has 56K miles on it and is a 1 owner.The dealership told me 3 months ago my car was in perfect shape, including the struts . I am so confused. ANY IDEAS?
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    WOUld be fun if you could use the sound feature of a digital camera to record and post the noise....just like this:
    link title
    ...timing belt idler and tensioner bearings have been reported to generate weird noises.....
    ..and exhaust system is a common source of bumping and rattling noises....
  • ramman222ramman222 Posts: 1
    Good Day All:

    I have an '06 with a 2.7 and auto trans. I drive almost 1000 miles a week and have 111,000 miles on the clock. I'll start with the noise as it has me completely baffled.

    It started about a month ago. It only happens in gear with the air on when stopped with it in drive, but not all the time. It almost sounds like a rod knocking but a bit more intermittent and it is on the passenger side. Turn the air off and it stops. The compressor and clutch check out fine. Pop it in neutral and it stops, accelerate and it stops. Could this possibly be the tranny pump? The fluid has been changed at 50 and 100K and was not burned or very discolored either time. The tranny is not slipping and shifts smooth. Of course no mechanic can get it to reproduce the sound when I take it in.

    The starting issue just happened yesterday. When cold it starts with the first turn of the key. After driving and setting for an hour or so it won't start very easy. I have hit the key 4 times before it will start. Once started it runs fine with no hesitation or missing. The check engine light is not on. The fuel pump is not giving the "whine of death" that usually accompanies a bad pump.

    I have had to do nothing to this vehicle other than oil changes and a set of tires. I know I should have at least changed the plugs and wires but there never was a sign of need to. So this is where I started. I pulled the front bank out and the plugs were not really all that bad, but I replaced them and the wires all the same. How in the heck do you get to rear bank? The intake plenum appears to sit on top of the plugs. The mechanic claims his book calls for 1.2 hours to do a plug and wire change. There must be a trick to getting the rear bank plugs out. I don't believe they can R&R the intake and change plugs and wires in 1.2 hours. Of course he won't tell me any secrets. Any ideas?

    This is my second Sportage. I had an '01 that I put 170K on with no mechanical problems and traded it in on this one. I really have no complaints with Sportages. These two issues are annoyances more than problems.

    Any info would helpful.

    Thanks
  • kiabumkiabum Posts: 1
    I have had numerous issues with my 99 kia sportage since 01/09. I have replaced the timing belt, the plugs, the wires, the fuel pump, the clutch master cylinder, the slave cylinder and now the samshaft position sensor, I have had the keyway and the key checked no wear still fine. I have checked also the camshaft pin (rod) which is fine not broke. :cry: I have had the timing checked and rechecked all is correct. The car starts, idles rough can not get above 30mph and I have an engine light ln. I have 2 error codes one is po343 which is the cam shaft position sensor which is brand new yesterday ($100) and the other is the fuel pressure sensor. I am baffles I do not want to replace the fuel pressure sensor for $138 if there is something worse goig on with the cam shaft. ANY IDEAS????? :cry::cry::cry:
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    I'd check the actual fuel pressure as the sensor might be good, and the pressure wrong....possibly the regulator is faulty. I designed a fuel pressure gauge using a a/c refill tube....just remove the check valve (a small rubber ball) , the bottle adapter and install a 50-100 psi gaugeThe connector is OK. I used it on my Pontiac Transport..but did not manage to look for access with hte KIA...
    image

    test
  • kinderfokinderfo Posts: 2
    hi
    i have replaced alot of parts on the car still something is wrong when you step on the gas it goes to the floor but the car barely moves it takes forever to get to 25mph but after you do you are okay until you have to stop again then it does the same thing until you get up to 25mph again if you have to stop it will bog down like it is going to stall and sometimes it does i dont know what is wrong i spent alot of money on a timing belt and o 2 censers please help i love my kia :confuse:
  • SunnyD65SunnyD65 Posts: 4
    Today I got home and could not roll my rear passenger window up. It will go down but not up. It does not go up with either the passenger button or my master button. Please help if you have any ideas it is supposed to rain soon here.
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