Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Isuzu Trooper Maintenance and Repair

123457

Comments

  • meeoffmeeoff Member Posts: 1
    thier are 2 plugs in the bottom of your tranny a red one in the pan and a blue one beside the pan a little higher you got to take the blue one out and if fluid runs out or if you can feel fluid then it's good .if not,fill til it runs out of the hole.i just went through this.
  • soldiergirl96soldiergirl96 Member Posts: 1
    Love this truck - but at a crossroads and not sure if I should try and save it. Starting High Idle while driving, shut it off then okay for just a little while, was low on gas, got gas then immediatley high idle started again, shut-off, now won't start. Sounds like it's out of gas. Replaced starter 3 weeks earlier. Sounds like it really wants to start but won't turn over. 96 Trooper, 97k miles - bought used, found receipt for TPS replacement in glove box , Battery sounds strong, - Any ideas would be appreciated.
  • cracoviancracovian Member Posts: 337
    I just had the leak fixed on my 2002 Trooper (57K miles.) The leaks were very small but persistent and it took me a while to figure out that it was indeed my "bulletproof" Isuzu that was leaking :)

    I see a reference to the same 8-96017-093-0 (piston cover) and two quarts of dextron on my invoice.

    This was covered under the 10yr/120K warranty with zero hassle at our local Marietta Mercury/Lincoln dealership (Isuzu service) and I was out within a couple of hours. I never really expected to ever need/use the warranty but, oh well, I'm very happy how things turned out in the end.
  • maddsnakesmaddsnakes Member Posts: 2
    I have this same problem. Were you ever able to get this resolved. Does anyone have any suggestions?
  • maddsnakesmaddsnakes Member Posts: 2
    I'm reposting this as I never saw if anyone had any solutions and I have the same problem:

    I also have a 92 Trooper 4WD V6 Automatic Trans. with VSS problem. I ordered a replacement VSS but it is not like what I see on the transmission. The VSS is hard wired at the transmission with the wiring going somewhere. There should be a connector at one end or the other of the wiring. Can you send diagram and replacement instructions or procedures? Also send any information on the Isuzu VSS part or part number and it there is any aftermarket replacement. I purchased part # H313303 and every place I look on the web says this is correct, but unless this is inside the housing I am seeing on the transmission, it is not correct.
  • molcolomolcolo Member Posts: 2
    Have had a "hissing " sound from the top area of the engine, that has progressed and gotten worse. Have an issue with the starting as well? Battery is pretty new and replaced the terminal connectors. I now get a "click" noise but, not turning over. Any ideas?
  • tambratambra Member Posts: 5
    Sounds like it is your starter. Hissing noise - you must have a crack in a hose somewhere. It is pretty simple to replace.
  • tambratambra Member Posts: 5
    I just had this problem with my 93...did you only replace the pump or did you replace the whole assembly. If you didn't do the whole wiring/filter assembly, I would say you need to check the filter. It's my understanding that is the better route to go.
  • tambratambra Member Posts: 5
    My alternator checked okay too....but it was ultimately the alternator. It's an easy change....I did it myself and I'm a girl.
  • gmchevymangmchevyman Member Posts: 3
    Had the same thing. Replace intake gaskets and everything will be fine. As for starting check battery cable ends and replace if corroded or clean.
  • uincosuincos Member Posts: 1
    i just bought a used 93 trooper for christmas. 187k miles, had it checked out- needs a valve gasket & O2 Sensor replaced and all else SEEMED fine. I've put a little over 2k miles on it in the past 2-3weeks and twice I have been pulling into my driveway- slight hill, gravel, no big deal... but when I step on the gas pedal the engine goes and the car doesn't. I have been told it is a slipping tranny and nothing but a repalcement will fix the problem. However, a friend says he had similar and it was the transfer case? Any thoughts? I hoped it would run longer than a month when I bought it and now i'm screwed?!
  • molcolomolcolo Member Posts: 2
    Can you visually tell if the alternator or starter is bad? How can you determine if it's either one before pulling either one out of the vehicle?
  • nicelandniceland Member Posts: 2
    When driving the car runs unconstantly, like misfiring petrol engine, and the dealer carage could not find out what the problem is. If I step a little on the trottle the engine runs fine, but when the car has reached constant speed it starts to misfire again. Any ideas..............................
  • john_kahnerjohn_kahner Member Posts: 1
    Hey Faraidun. I've searched for an answer to my Trooper problem everywhere, but found no detailed information other than "employees" for transmission repair companies telling people to have their transmissions repaired for $2000.
    Here is my problem and steps I've taken, maybe it will help.
    1994 trooper 3.2 V-6 Dohc
    Transmission light comes on after 10 minutes of driving. After shorting the little white connector under the dash, I recieved Transmission error code/fault 51. This is the code for "bad" engine temp sensor. This sensor is located on the back of the engine in which you have to remove your intake manifold off to get behind it with a socket and multi-bend wratchet. After changing the sensore it worked great for a few days and then the error reoccurred. I've looked up any and all possible sollutions and found that I didn't "disconnect batter for 20 minutes, touch cables together to ground out and reset computer for 20 seconds." I will try this and see if it fixes it. If your transmission goes into "safe mode" after tranny light starts flashing and you can shift from 1-2-3 without tranny slipping than you probably don't have a bad transmision.
    How do you check Transmission Code?
    Sit in the drivers seat, reach under the dash by your right knee and you should be able to pull out two connectors. The white one that has 2 hole is the right one! Take a piece of wire or metal that is not coated with any plastics or pains and short both hole together. You will notice if you've left your car on with transmission light blinking that it will change it's blinking rate. It will flash in increments.. perhaps 5 quick blinks then 1 blink then a pause and then repeats again. or it may give you mulitiple codes. just record fault codes on paper and call a tranny shop to ask what they mean. Good luck, let me know the result. I'll let you know if I fix it permanently.
  • cracoviancracovian Member Posts: 337
    I just got a nice set of OEM pads that comes with two pouches of grease (orange and gold metallic one)... Which color do I use to apply to the inners shims and what's the other one for?
  • cracoviancracovian Member Posts: 337
    The grease question still stands but I took a look at my brake pads today (first time I took the wheels off this truck) and it looks like more than 50% of life is left all around (?) I have 59K miles, I assumed I'd need them around this time but are they really this good or is it my superior driving skills :-)
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    I replaced pad on my '00 Trooper LS at around 75,000 miles. They could have gone another 20 or 30 K miles. Yes, they are really that good. I'm over 150K miles now, so I guess I need to look at them again to see how they are holding up.

    BTW, notice the complete LACK of brake dust these give. I previously had a Nissan Quest and '00 Grand Cherokee that dusted up the wheels within 2 days after cleaning. BIG difference.
  • cracoviancracovian Member Posts: 337
    Yeah, there's no dust whatsoever but that must have something to do with the fact that they don't wear out in the first place :-)

    The rotors seem to be in a good shape too and look very smooth (aside from the exterior rust all over the place) - Did you ever have them machined or replaced?
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    "The rotors seem to be in a good shape too and look very smooth (aside from the exterior rust all over the place) - Did you ever have them machined or replaced? "

    No. The rotors looked to be in good shape so I just replaced the pads with OEM pads from the dealer. I did front and rear. Still working good at 153,000.

    Bill
  • 93trooper293trooper2 Member Posts: 1
    My 93 trooper steering wheel pulses back and forth when cold when I first start driving and then settles down as it warms up. It still pulses when warm but only slightly. Is the the pump going out? Any suggestions on what to check? Thanks.
  • jmiejmie Member Posts: 1
    I aquired my Isuzu Trooper (2001) with 104,000 miles on it. When I am driving at low speeds (under 40) it sounds like I am driving on a VERY rough road. (vibrates with a low roaring sound) It clears up once I have reached speeds above 40mph. Someone told me this is the differential going bad. (this is NOT a 4 wheel drive SUV) The transmission sometimes slips as well but I do not know where to check the fluid nor where to put it if it is low. Someone also told me it is a sealed tranny. If so, do I drain it and where do I refill the tranny fluid after draining? :( I cannot afford a mechanic as I have recently gotten a divorce and am starting all over again so money is an issue. I need to keep this SUV for as long as I can since there are no other options. Anyone got a clue as to what is happening with it? Please let me know. Being a woman I am not totally clueless and am able to change out brakes and other low tech things, so working on it myself is not a problem.
  • heartlanheartlan Member Posts: 2
    How hard is it to replace the radiator on this vehicle, 3.2 v6 auto? Should I replace the upper and lower hose at tha same time? Is there good place to purchase a new radiator online?
  • emjeyzeeemjeyzee Member Posts: 1
    I know the message is old now, but I recently had the same problem on my 2000 Trooper. From what I can tell, it appears that the exhaust tailpipe is rubbing against the underbody. The rubber hanger seems to be deformed (after I had some other exhaust work done). Probably getting a new hanger may solve the problem. You may also want to check the jack "hide-away" compartment to see if the the jack or bar have become loose and are rattling away back there.
  • tyrussell_t95tyrussell_t95 Member Posts: 1
    I just got a 95 trooper, and when i drive it, air comes through the air vents. I turned off my ac and fan but that dosent seem to stop it. I'm just wondering if this is a problem that i should worry about or not? also by the gas pedal under the dash after about an hour of driving it gets hot im not sure if its over heating or what?
  • marni94marni94 Member Posts: 1
    I had a 2000 Trooper LS I loved dearly, but when I lost my job I sold it for the $$. A few months later with a new job, I saved enough to buy a 1995 Trooper LS. Let me start by saying I know practically nothing about cars, but have had to learn some because I need this vehicle in order to get to work and back, so please, any responses would be appreciated in plain English :-)

    It was running fine, but had almost overheated a few times. I kept my eyes on the fluid in the radiator, topping it off whenever it looked like it was getting low. I don't know where that water is disappearing to - I cannot see any leak when I park it, but I'm no mechanic.

    Over the weekend, I was stuck in stop and go traffic for about 2 hours due to construction. The temp started rising. And rising. When I was only a mile or so from home, I got real nervous, pulled over at a hair salon, asked if I can use thier sink to get water, let it cool a bit, and added water. I keep an old windshield washer fluid bottle in my car filled with water to give you an idea of the capacity I was putting in. I put in the bottle I had with me (I assume a lot of it evaporated as steam) and then 1 more full one from salon (still a good amount evaporated in steam) then about a half of one with no steam.

    Next day, 20 mile trip to work, temp started rising, but it drove fine. About 10 miles into drive, it started chugging a bit. When stopped at a stop light, I could hear a gurgling sound as well....as if the water in the overflow was boiling & bubbling. I didn't open the hood at work to see, as I had to get in, but when I left, I checked radiator and topped off water. It did it again after about 15 miles or so.

    Any ideas what is causing it? Is it something I can fix? Cost? I am pretty handy with tools, just need the instructions and any warnings...

    Any ideas, info, speculation would be much appreciated. I just started getting back on my feet after a long unemployment drought, I am a single woman with no trust fund (just a glimmer of hope I win the lottery) so I really could use some assistance to make sure I still have a vehicle to get to work. I don't need to go anywhere else...

    Thanks for your help, all!
  • cracoviancracovian Member Posts: 337
    First of all, you need to flush your radiator and put new 50/50 coolant ASAP. Only add that stuff from now on. I haven't done it yet myself (2002) but I was looking into it and it seems easy to drain it utilizing the plug at the bottom of the radiator.

    Do you notice any smoke going out the tailpipe? Do you see any film on your windshield? Can you smell any fumes (non-gas) inside? Maybe it's just me but it seems like the coolant is getting into your cylinders (not a good thing.)
  • cmal06cmal06 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Izusu trooper. 6 months ago, I started to get a check engine light and reduce power light. I took it to the mechanics where they clean the throttle. After having the same problem again various times, they changed the cabling. Six months later, I started to have the same issue. They clean the throttle again and it continue with the problem. Found later that the cable to the throttle was loose. They tightened it and it started to to it again two weeks ago. Again they tightened it again and it I still has issues. When ever I go into a bump on the road, I get the lights. I don't think the cable keeps getting loose every time. Would there be another issue going on?
  • cracoviancracovian Member Posts: 337
    2002 Troopers have electronic throttle control (drive-by-wire), so this "loose throttle cabling" just doesn't make any sense...
  • cmal06cmal06 Member Posts: 2
    That's right. I believe they told me it was wiring and connections to the Electronic Throttle Control. I wish I remember the three codes that I was getting. I believe one had to do with the throttle Control housing, the other one witth a throttle sensor and the other has to do with the cables.
  • rodp2rodp2 Member Posts: 3
    Sounds like you are experiencing torque converter shudder. I added a bottle of Instant Shudder Fixx By Dr. Tranny (2 oz.) My torque converter shudder istantly went away and hasn't come back. http://www.lubegard.com/~/C-230/Dr.+Tranny+Instant+Shudder+Fixx
  • rodp2rodp2 Member Posts: 3
    I have added Shudder Fixx twice and the shudder keeps coming back. Has your shuddering returned?
  • trooper37trooper37 Member Posts: 1
    Try Rockauto.com - they have great prices and any easy search interface.

    Search under the extras tab - not the specific drop-down for Isuzu but for all cars. Then select Exhaust : Pipe : Inner & Outer Braid Flex Pipe

    I chose a PCI Part # 542 Flex Pipe Coupling - w/extensions, 2" diameter (8" overall length).

    To install I then:
    (1) cut out the bad flex pipe just outside the weld beads
    (2) used an oxy-acetylene torch to remove the 2 bolts on the right down pipe.
    (3) fit the flex pipe to the down pipe and other crossover pipe loosely.
    (4) loosely reassembled with a new gasket on the down-pipe joint
    (5) assemble 2" U-clamps on the ends of the new flex pipe with a thin layer of muffler cement
    (6) line everything up - you may have to rotate the flex pipe if it is not perfectly straight, especially to get the pipe flange lined up nicely and avoid stress
    (7) snug everything up.

    Note that the flex joint ends can be welded too but everything is tight to the transmission at least with a 5-speed and push button 4WD. The TOD option appears to use slight different piping per parts manual I looked over.
  • rodp2rodp2 Member Posts: 3
    Anyone know how I can find out the plug size and thread size on a transmission plug for a 2001 Isuzu Trooper SL? I am trying to purchase a drain plug with a valve from quickvalve.com.
  • harvyosswaldharvyosswald Member Posts: 2
    Bet your muffler and or pipes are loose
  • harvyosswaldharvyosswald Member Posts: 2
    I have an 88 Trooper ii I bought 6 months ago 4c 5 speed 4x4 115K miles.
    Im really impressed with and enjoy. Yesterday I was getting ready to go enjoy the weekend in the mountains, and never had a problem with the Trooper before , I went to start engine and it started and ran at idle for about 5 or 6 secs, then died, I tried several more times , same result. Also had low fuel,oil,o2,and brake lights on dash.
    I read in here several threads about vacume leaks and throtle body cleaning.
    I started by taking vacume lines and cutting about half an inch off of each line then realized the lines were in way to bad of shape { dry rot }, so went and bought about 15ft of Vacume line, replaced all. Then Pulled the tubing between Throtle body and aircleaner and cleaned with carbcleaner, then I pulled the battery cables , cleaned cables and battery posts. tried starting it , took several tries , then it started and idled without dying, but dash warning lights still on, turned off and on again and warning lights are gone, idle surged hi then low and did this for a few minutes till I realized I had switched two vacume lines by mistake, now it purrs and has better acceleration than before and now idles were it should. Was very stressed last night reading in here on it , but am very happy now, thanks all.
  • bellwestern80bellwestern80 Member Posts: 2
    edited May 2011
    I picked up a 2000 Isuzu Trooper from a local car dealership a few days ago with around 179K on the odometer. When I got it home, it began and misfiring shook terribly while in gear, so I took it back and they replaced the right rear fuel injector and replaced the spark plugs (for free as a courtesy), and the engine ran with out all the hesitation and loss of mid-range power. Now the shaking is back, not as bad, but it happens while idling and while accelerating (Cruising in the lower RPM bands is fine). It also makes a louder acceleration noise while, but during the test drive it was nice and quiet. I'm not sure if a motor mount could of gone bad since the engine was firing so erratically before and causing shaking, but I don't want this car to become a money-hole, especially in the expectation for a cheap, older car. A few other things I have noticed is the fuel does smell a bit stale and it is 1,500 miles overdue for an oil change. I am not currently driving it until I swing it past Jiffy-Lube for the oil change. Does anyone have any idea what is causing the shaking now? Could it be the timing belt?

    Notes: It's a Trooper S with 2 Wheel Drive.
    It has the 3.5 V6 Engine with Automatic Transmission.
  • sharkedoutsharkedout Member Posts: 1
    thanks to your reply to faraidun, I was able to fix my problem. my transmission would work fine until the check transmission light would come on, then it would go into safe mode. as you said i jumped the computer and got code 49. it took forever to find out what that was, but it turned out to be the alternator was putting out high voltage. i replaced it yesterday and now everything works great, the belts dont even squeal now.
    i found the code translation at:
    http://codes.rennacs.com/plugins/IsuzuTRANS/ISUZU-TRANS-27-Irmscher.php
  • mikeb_seattlemikeb_seattle Member Posts: 1
    I bought my Tropper used last summer. It has about 250k miles on it, but runs really well.

    However, recently the batter warning light on the dash has come on and I am experiencing some strange accelerations issues. Almost like a cylinder or two isn't firing. It goes away if I let the car warm up for a while, but the light stays on.

    The batter is only 6 months old and was brand new when I put it in.

    Alternator? Plugs and Wires?
  • tomtom13tomtom13 Member Posts: 1
    Try the oxygen sensor.
  • bellwestern80bellwestern80 Member Posts: 2
    The problem was a misfire due to aged coil packs. The repair took longer since the engine was GM sourced, so it had to be moved from the Honda dealer I bought it at.
  • catweazelcatweazel Member Posts: 1
    Wondering if anyone has any idea what might have caused warning lights to light up/stay on on my Trooper 3.1 diesel. I was driving along with air con on (living in Spain so essential) when the air con stopped working and several warning lights (ABS, Water Separator, Battery and Timing belt) came on and have stayed on since. Also the blower fan does not work even without the air con switched on.

    Seems to be running ok so could this be just fuse/electrical fault. I'm no mechanic so any suggestions welcomed.
  • dubesrusdubesrus Member Posts: 1
    I have a '93 Trooper, manual trans, SOHC engine, and need to replace the front exhaust pipe (from manifold to the Y).
    Parts sellers have this for Auto trans vehicles but not for manual trans vehicles.
    I was told that the pipe for the auto trans vehicle will work, because it is formed to get around the larger auto trans. Since the manual trans is smaller in size, this pipe will work.
    Any knowledge on this would be appreciated.
  • ravyn3189ravyn3189 Member Posts: 1
    When I take off it starts jerking in first gear, but when I put it in winter drive it works just fine...I mean its slower cause its in winter drive but it doesnt vibrate. If anyone could please give me some addvice I would really appreciate it so far I have been told that I just need a new transmission. Anything would help..Thanks so much!
  • aconaacona Member Posts: 1
    I have an 1989 Trooper. Left/Right CV boots have to be replaced on the front axles. Mechanics in my area say it is too hard a job to tackle. Has anyone had experience replaing the boots only (not axle)? If so, how hard is the job? Thank you
  • vogesvoges Member Posts: 1
    Hi! I have a V6 '99 Isuzu Trooper, it has an exhaust leak that wont let it pass inspection. I took it to the mechanic and they said the donut gasket is leaking and the down pipe on the left bank is loose? I would love to fix this ourselves but when I :confuse: tried to get a Haynes or Chiltons manual but was told they dont make one? Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated!
  • rsstrsst Member Posts: 4
    I have 96 trooper limited,Iv been doing repair work an I found water in the exhaust manifold,what's going on?
  • lilypad1lilypad1 Member Posts: 1
    I think I bought her Isuzu trooper and I want to get it fixed, I have taken it to every mechanic I know. We had it scanned at a transmission shop and they said no problems with the tranny. We put a new used drive line in it, rotated tires, new brakes, It makes a noise like you driving over a grid between 30 and 35 and then goes away after you get higher in speed. If I put in Power drive (its only two wheel drive) it doesnt do it until it reaches 40 to 45. Any ideas would be hreatly appreciated.
  • micahbozmicahboz Member Posts: 1
    I have a recurring problem on my Isuzu Manual Transmission. Once every three months or so, my clutch goes limp and I can't get it to shift at all. I then take it into a mechanic who tells me he replaces my clutch cylinder, and it seems to work again for a bit.

    Why is my clutch going? Is there some sort of hydraulic pump with a leak perhaps?
  • molylepkemolylepke Member Posts: 1
    Its the heatshields over your exhaust. They are cracked and when air goes through them the make a terrible noise. Fix: leave it alone or take them off.
  • rsstrsst Member Posts: 4
    Could somebody send me pictures of a 96 trooper engine. Need to look at thermostat housing. Have a extra hose an it's been plugged off an don't know where it goes. Chiltons manual is garbage!!!
Sign In or Register to comment.