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I see a reference to the same 8-96017-093-0 (piston cover) and two quarts of dextron on my invoice.
This was covered under the 10yr/120K warranty with zero hassle at our local Marietta Mercury/Lincoln dealership (Isuzu service) and I was out within a couple of hours. I never really expected to ever need/use the warranty but, oh well, I'm very happy how things turned out in the end.
I also have a 92 Trooper 4WD V6 Automatic Trans. with VSS problem. I ordered a replacement VSS but it is not like what I see on the transmission. The VSS is hard wired at the transmission with the wiring going somewhere. There should be a connector at one end or the other of the wiring. Can you send diagram and replacement instructions or procedures? Also send any information on the Isuzu VSS part or part number and it there is any aftermarket replacement. I purchased part # H313303 and every place I look on the web says this is correct, but unless this is inside the housing I am seeing on the transmission, it is not correct.
Here is my problem and steps I've taken, maybe it will help.
1994 trooper 3.2 V-6 Dohc
Transmission light comes on after 10 minutes of driving. After shorting the little white connector under the dash, I recieved Transmission error code/fault 51. This is the code for "bad" engine temp sensor. This sensor is located on the back of the engine in which you have to remove your intake manifold off to get behind it with a socket and multi-bend wratchet. After changing the sensore it worked great for a few days and then the error reoccurred. I've looked up any and all possible sollutions and found that I didn't "disconnect batter for 20 minutes, touch cables together to ground out and reset computer for 20 seconds." I will try this and see if it fixes it. If your transmission goes into "safe mode" after tranny light starts flashing and you can shift from 1-2-3 without tranny slipping than you probably don't have a bad transmision.
How do you check Transmission Code?
Sit in the drivers seat, reach under the dash by your right knee and you should be able to pull out two connectors. The white one that has 2 hole is the right one! Take a piece of wire or metal that is not coated with any plastics or pains and short both hole together. You will notice if you've left your car on with transmission light blinking that it will change it's blinking rate. It will flash in increments.. perhaps 5 quick blinks then 1 blink then a pause and then repeats again. or it may give you mulitiple codes. just record fault codes on paper and call a tranny shop to ask what they mean. Good luck, let me know the result. I'll let you know if I fix it permanently.
BTW, notice the complete LACK of brake dust these give. I previously had a Nissan Quest and '00 Grand Cherokee that dusted up the wheels within 2 days after cleaning. BIG difference.
The rotors seem to be in a good shape too and look very smooth (aside from the exterior rust all over the place) - Did you ever have them machined or replaced?
No. The rotors looked to be in good shape so I just replaced the pads with OEM pads from the dealer. I did front and rear. Still working good at 153,000.
Bill
It was running fine, but had almost overheated a few times. I kept my eyes on the fluid in the radiator, topping it off whenever it looked like it was getting low. I don't know where that water is disappearing to - I cannot see any leak when I park it, but I'm no mechanic.
Over the weekend, I was stuck in stop and go traffic for about 2 hours due to construction. The temp started rising. And rising. When I was only a mile or so from home, I got real nervous, pulled over at a hair salon, asked if I can use thier sink to get water, let it cool a bit, and added water. I keep an old windshield washer fluid bottle in my car filled with water to give you an idea of the capacity I was putting in. I put in the bottle I had with me (I assume a lot of it evaporated as steam) and then 1 more full one from salon (still a good amount evaporated in steam) then about a half of one with no steam.
Next day, 20 mile trip to work, temp started rising, but it drove fine. About 10 miles into drive, it started chugging a bit. When stopped at a stop light, I could hear a gurgling sound as well....as if the water in the overflow was boiling & bubbling. I didn't open the hood at work to see, as I had to get in, but when I left, I checked radiator and topped off water. It did it again after about 15 miles or so.
Any ideas what is causing it? Is it something I can fix? Cost? I am pretty handy with tools, just need the instructions and any warnings...
Any ideas, info, speculation would be much appreciated. I just started getting back on my feet after a long unemployment drought, I am a single woman with no trust fund (just a glimmer of hope I win the lottery) so I really could use some assistance to make sure I still have a vehicle to get to work. I don't need to go anywhere else...
Thanks for your help, all!
Do you notice any smoke going out the tailpipe? Do you see any film on your windshield? Can you smell any fumes (non-gas) inside? Maybe it's just me but it seems like the coolant is getting into your cylinders (not a good thing.)
Search under the extras tab - not the specific drop-down for Isuzu but for all cars. Then select Exhaust : Pipe : Inner & Outer Braid Flex Pipe
I chose a PCI Part # 542 Flex Pipe Coupling - w/extensions, 2" diameter (8" overall length).
To install I then:
(1) cut out the bad flex pipe just outside the weld beads
(2) used an oxy-acetylene torch to remove the 2 bolts on the right down pipe.
(3) fit the flex pipe to the down pipe and other crossover pipe loosely.
(4) loosely reassembled with a new gasket on the down-pipe joint
(5) assemble 2" U-clamps on the ends of the new flex pipe with a thin layer of muffler cement
(6) line everything up - you may have to rotate the flex pipe if it is not perfectly straight, especially to get the pipe flange lined up nicely and avoid stress
(7) snug everything up.
Note that the flex joint ends can be welded too but everything is tight to the transmission at least with a 5-speed and push button 4WD. The TOD option appears to use slight different piping per parts manual I looked over.
Im really impressed with and enjoy. Yesterday I was getting ready to go enjoy the weekend in the mountains, and never had a problem with the Trooper before , I went to start engine and it started and ran at idle for about 5 or 6 secs, then died, I tried several more times , same result. Also had low fuel,oil,o2,and brake lights on dash.
I read in here several threads about vacume leaks and throtle body cleaning.
I started by taking vacume lines and cutting about half an inch off of each line then realized the lines were in way to bad of shape { dry rot }, so went and bought about 15ft of Vacume line, replaced all. Then Pulled the tubing between Throtle body and aircleaner and cleaned with carbcleaner, then I pulled the battery cables , cleaned cables and battery posts. tried starting it , took several tries , then it started and idled without dying, but dash warning lights still on, turned off and on again and warning lights are gone, idle surged hi then low and did this for a few minutes till I realized I had switched two vacume lines by mistake, now it purrs and has better acceleration than before and now idles were it should. Was very stressed last night reading in here on it , but am very happy now, thanks all.
Notes: It's a Trooper S with 2 Wheel Drive.
It has the 3.5 V6 Engine with Automatic Transmission.
i found the code translation at:
http://codes.rennacs.com/plugins/IsuzuTRANS/ISUZU-TRANS-27-Irmscher.php
However, recently the batter warning light on the dash has come on and I am experiencing some strange accelerations issues. Almost like a cylinder or two isn't firing. It goes away if I let the car warm up for a while, but the light stays on.
The batter is only 6 months old and was brand new when I put it in.
Alternator? Plugs and Wires?
Seems to be running ok so could this be just fuse/electrical fault. I'm no mechanic so any suggestions welcomed.
Parts sellers have this for Auto trans vehicles but not for manual trans vehicles.
I was told that the pipe for the auto trans vehicle will work, because it is formed to get around the larger auto trans. Since the manual trans is smaller in size, this pipe will work.
Any knowledge on this would be appreciated.
Why is my clutch going? Is there some sort of hydraulic pump with a leak perhaps?