Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Isuzu Trooper Maintenance and Repair

1234568»

Comments

  • advcompsadvcomps Member Posts: 1
    I just changed the clutch last week and it drove OK for a few days. It will go into 2nd , 4th and reverse. The clutch is working fine because it will not roll on a hill when the clutch is engaged. I have removed the shift lever and the plastic peice on the bottom is OK. I tried to shift it into 1st 3rd or reverse with a screwdriver and it will not shift into those gears. Any Ideas?
  • jsterenjsteren Member Posts: 1
    2000 Trooper with 177k miles. Car was running fine but needed new EGR. I had the EGR replaced, new plugs, and new valve cover gaskets. Now it is running poorly, mis-firing, especially under load. It first was displaying the p0401 code for insufficient EGR Flow, then a code for misfire in cylinder #1, and now is throwing the p0401 code and p0300 code for random/multiple misfires in all cylinders. The check engine light will occasionally start flashing, usually at freeway speeds. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Jacob.
  • rsstrsst Member Posts: 4
    I have a 96 trooper, it over heats at low speeds 20- 50mph, but if I go over 50mph, it won't overheat. Could some one tell me what gives?
  • dll_guatedll_guate Member Posts: 1
    I have a similar problem, which today might have gotten fixed. Is the noise coming from the rear end? A friend of mine is a Honda mechanic and he said that the Trooper needs a special non-slip additive to the rear differential gear box. It is standard for Isuzu Troopers. We added it and it appears to have stopped the noise. The additive costs about $15.00. Worth a try. Cheap fix if it stays fixed.
  • 5dennis55dennis5 Member Posts: 5
    Did you find the pix u needed ??
    I have a 97 Acura SLX/Trooper with a V-6 + will do the pix if you still need them
  • NufSaidNufSaid Member Posts: 6
    2 things to check first from the computer there is a bundle of wire with about 100 wires in it follow that bundle there is a bolt that hold things tight bolt comes loose and when u hit a bump it causes the computer to loose ground and the reduce power light to come on. silver box about 11 x 11 the computer that is drivers side by master cyl

    NUMBER 2 The main cause if you have checked all sencors this is the ANSWER My 2004 rodeo reduce power lite came on once in awhile if i got out and taped on the throttle body and then started the engine it was good for awhile. what that did was jar the brushes on the throttle actuator motor. every time it came on i just got out and taped on the housing. What i did was remove the motor from the throttle body housing took the motor apart which was very easy where the brushes ride was all black. Took some sand paper cleaned very carefully till all the black was gone. Never came on again 3 years ago. They have a issue with this more than u think several people i told this to and they fixed there reduce power lite issue easy if it comes on try raising hood tapping on the throttle body housing opsite end from where the wire plugs in there is a electric motor in this housing. Then start light goes off do the above and clean
  • takecare10takecare10 Member Posts: 1
    Recently got my first car. Its a 2000 Isuzu Trooper LS 2wd with 159k miles.
    I bought it having CEL on, (has an exhaust leak and egr needs cleaning). Also, abs light is on, cuz brakes need changing, bad. When I bought it, it had close to no oil, but overall good condition.
    It does make loud ticking do to the exhaust leak. I'm going to get oil change soon, should I use normail or Mobil 1 synthetic? Also, what weight? I didnt get a manual with it.
    I got it for $1600...a bargain. Also, whats a good tuneup to do on it?
    I'm 18 and I like cars but need to learn more
    about them. Dont know a lot yet, just the basics. Also, would it hurt to drive it with
    Cel ad abs light on for a couple months? Or does egr cleankng and exhaust leak need fixing asap?
    I'm looking to carry this trooper well over 200k miles, I hope it serves me
    well.
  • sloloco1sloloco1 Member Posts: 1
    edited November 2012
    The P401 code is common on the 3.5L engine. Often times the EGR valve itself is fine. The real problem is build up of gunk from around town driving in the manifold tube that goes to the EGR valve. Every 6mo. or so the best thing to do is get a can of carb cleaner and spray it through the tube. To do so you must first loosen the two bolts and remove the EGR valve itself. Once you have done so, simply start the engine and begin spraying the cleaner into the larger of the two holes atop the manifold where the EGR was mounted. Be sure to do so while the engine is running, and spray just enough to not choke out and kill the motor. I pretty much run the whole can through it. Afterwards it should run smoother and the P401 code will not come back on once you reset it with your OBC reader.
  • myth1myth1 Member Posts: 2
    edited November 2012
    I started having speedometer issues a few months ago on my 2001 Trooper 2WD Automatic. 72,000 original miles. (Yes pretty low mileage. I have a short commute to work and I had another primary vehicle for 3 years.) The speedometer has been registering lower speeds, like 30 mph when I am going 60 or 65 mph. Like it is slipping. Won't make it up to freeway speeds. Now it is just mostly not working and sitting at 0 mph. From what I have read on forums, it might be the speed sensor. The other gauges including tachometer, voltage, etc. work fine. I went to an ex Isuzu dealer here in Florida, He found 2 different parts identified as a speed sensor on their technical diagram of the transmission. The part was small but he said it cost like $470 just for the part. I found this webpage with an image of a speed sensor and a much lower price of $204. But the images he found were different. So I am not sure which part is really the correct speed sensor.

    http://www.jcwhitney.com/standard-speed-sensor/p2018830.jcwx?skuId=4437874&filte- - rid=d50594y2001j1

    I'm wondering if anyone else has had a similar issue with their speedometer and how it was resolved. Also any hints where to get the best price on the speed sensor? On another note, the parts tech told me that Isuzu dealers are only going to carry parts for Isuzu's for another 4-5 years. Then game over, we are screwed to get parts. Is that statement true?
  • ooper1ooper1 Member Posts: 1
    I realize this post is 3 months old. I hope you have addressed some of the issues by now.

    I use 5w-30 mobil 1 or better. When I have the time and money I will do 6 months or so with amsoil.

    As far as a tune up goes:

    Plugs- Be sure to get the manual reccomended type.
    PCV Valve
    Air Filter

    I would find out if the timing belt and water pump was replaced around 100k. If not then start planning for it. IMO a good mechanic will tell you to do those items together since you have to tear so much apart to get to it.

    I would get the EGR cleaned soon which will only improve performance. Some have related this cleaning to the oil problem I mention below. So you might be burning oil and think that this will fix the problem. Well it wont cure it but it will help.

    The exhaust can wait but don't neglect it.

    IMO- Stick to the owners manual maintenance guide. If it recommends a fluid change at x amount of miles then do it.

    Get more than one opinion and estimate when shopping for the work to be done at a shop.

    I am not sure with the 2000 + models if there was a oil drain problem like there is in mine...when the oil cycles up and drains down through the motor there are not enough holes for it to resettle down in the oil pan. Thus the oil stays atop and burns out through the exhaust...almost invisibly and before you know it your driving 70 mph down the highway and your engine seizes up and your pissed off because you didn't have any warning what so ever and you tell yourself "hmmm I thought I was doing regular maintenance...how could this have happened?" SO CHECK YOUR OIL REGULARLY!!! Fortunately I haven't had this problem yet.

    I own a 1999 Performance PKG with TOD. Someone removed the TR. Bought with 86,000. Now have 137,000
    Repairs and major maintenance items:
    Water Pump
    Timing Belt.
    Rear Differential/ pinion seal leak and replacement.
    Cylinder 3 misfire. Just had valve job. Looked like somebody took a bite out of the valve. Looks like pac man.
    Currently has exhaust leak. Not yet replaced/ fixed.
    Car was raised in Texas for first 50,000 miles. So the A/C compressor was shot. Had that done last year. Since then the rear bank o2 sensor keeps appearing on the "Check engine light" My mechanic told me don't worry about it. I had it replaced once and with-in days it had failed. I cant afford to keep doing that and I don't have time to listen to theories.

    Future plans:
    Exhaust fix/ replacement
    Noisy lifters. Not sure what to do about that.
    Tranny flush and a tranny cooler installed. I tow a lot.
    Rear air bag stabilizers.
  • nyctroopernyctrooper Member Posts: 1
    Hi everyone,

    I have a '99 Isuzu Trooper and the rear end has been bottoming out big time. I replaced the rear shocks but that didn't help much at all. I took it to another mechanic and he recommended that I replace the FRONT shocks. Does that sound right? Could it be anything else?

    Thanks..
  • wagjawwagjaw Member Posts: 2
    Just started to get this on my '99 Trooper. Not got it diagnosed yet, but was suspecting rear shocks - will proceed with care as this did not solve your issue. If you figure it out, please follow up (as will I, if I can figure it).
  • wagjawwagjaw Member Posts: 2
    Lifter noise - solved with heavier (10-30) synthetic on my Trooper - been using it for about 25K with great results. Does not consume any faster than thinner oil - for those worrying about the return path to the sump. Suggested by former Isuzu mech.
  • hp1234hp1234 Member Posts: 8
    I've got the P0300 code for a month now and had not been able to figure out what's causing it. I've replaced the EGR valve and cleaned the EGR port behind the throttle body (it was not clogged BTW). My mechanic has replaced the manifold gasket and one of the fuel injector and suggested that the throttle body needs to be replaced as well. I bought a used throttle body from junk yard and installed it but did not help. Has anyone run into the same problem and found a solution?

    Thanks.
  • rachel33rachel33 Member Posts: 1
    Hi ive got a 1998 tropper 3.1 deisal, after doing a 700 mile round trip I noticed that the fuel gage stays live when switched off and at the same time ive been having trouble starting her hot or cold, she also drops in reves to the point of cutting out when stoped at traffic lights ect, but comes back up again on its own when left

    anyone got any ideas
  • hoggy1hoggy1 Member Posts: 1
    does anyone know will a 99 trooper front clip (complete clip) fit my 95 trooper PLEASE HELP
  • joebonejoebone Member Posts: 1

    I have a 96 Trooper. there is a parasitic battery drain. when I connect or disconnect the negative battery post I hear a clicking coming from underneath the gear shift lever, or above the transmission. something is remaining engaged . any ideas ?

  • swharrellswharrell Member Posts: 6

    My 1998 Trooper shuts itself off just like you turn off the key when you put it in drive or reverse, then proceed ten feet or more ! It does not shut its self off when in park or neutral and you gun the engine

    Its an auto / four wheel .... 1st mechanic put a new alternator in ... that was not the problem It has been with a 2nd mechanic for almost two weeks with no word on a solution

  • Hayden222Hayden222 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 1991 Isuzu Trooper model l l with a 2.6 4 cylinder that has had an engine fire which has basically melted everything from the battery compartment down through the grill my question is is there any common knowledge on that being an issue or is this something good happen by fluke. I would like to know what kind of rebuild I'm into because I plan on getting it back on the road would it be best to look into a complete engine swap or maybe just a wiring harness replacement any and all help will appreciated
Sign In or Register to comment.