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Try calling Hyannis Kia or New Bedford Kia and asking the service managers
the solution they found for this problem. If you can get a couple of Kia service managers talking it may help. I know the main computer not identifying the problem because of the defective IPM was a real problem.
Good luck
Terry
My son's van is having similar problems so we replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump assemblies and installed new plugs, and we still have the same problem....it starts, warms up for about 3-5 minutes and then dies.
On start up you cannot take the rpm's over 4,000. After the warm up the car won't run. I am amazed that there ars so many Kia's with the same problem. I don't own one and after reading these post - I never will.
Has anyone found a "root cause" for this problem? We checked the OBD codes and they were vague. It must be a real problem for the technicians because this forum is full of stories about guessing as to which part to change next.
I cleaned all of the electrical connectors, the MAF, checked the fuses that would affect the fuel supply, and I am now going to clean the ISC and TPS. What a mess!
Since I am bypassing the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor and the van runs OK, I now suspect that the MAF or the intake manifold may have a leak. I did download the troubleshoooting procedures from kia-tech and I will try those tomorrow.
I think it would be worthwhile for those of you who are experiencing stalling to disconnect the MAF and see if your van runs OK in LIMP mode. It's not a solution but it makes the van driveable.
Dealer thought we were crazy, took it for a couple of test drives and couldn't find anything wrong... Needless to say, we get a bit anxious whenever on the highway now days. Shouldn't be like that with your new car...
The fuel filter can be removed through the access cap located on the floor behind the drivers seat. You'll have to pull back the carpet to get to the panel. It comes out with a few screws. You may have to lower the front of the tank to get enough clearance to tap the locking ring loose (Use a piece of hardwood if you do not have a brass drift).
I had a similar problem with a 1985 VW. The fuel pump replacement fixed it too.
I am sure that your Kia dealer is aware of this failure mode - they just don't want to pay for the parts cost.
Thank you.
We drive it stops accelerating, engine shuts down and we are trying to cruise to the side of the interstate yet we have no power to pass cars. We turn our hazards on and try to get over. The scary part is when we have to drift over passing an exit merging onto the highway as we are trying to get to the side with no power...I am going to the dealership tomorrow to tell them about it. I am going to bring in the blogs and prove I am not crazy. Did you know that there is an attorney named Howard Gutman in NJ that deals with Kia problems...this apparently is a huge problem. I am going to demand that Kia give me a letter in writing telling me it is safe to drive and they found nothing wrong with it. If they think we are all crazy then they should have NO problem writing letters. If they do not help me I am filing a complaint and filing one with the Better Business Burea and attorney general's office. We need to do something before someone is killed!
I really love this van, though...
Now on to my other problem... no starting.... think I have that one figured out...
I have a similar problem with my Kia Sedona 2007.
- Suddenly the gas stops responding. The car slows down.
- the Check Engine and ESC-OFF lights turns on.
- I can continue to drive but only at about 8 mph. Depressing the gas does not make any difference - the RPMs of the engine do not change.
- When I stop, put the gear shift into "D" while standing on the brake, the car starts to jump like an old tractor (when I move it to "P" it stops but the engine still isn't running as smoothly as normally).
- Stopping and restarting (sometimes twice with a pause ) fixes the problems. The check engine light stays on for some time and then goes away.
It happened three times so far. The dealer says he cannot do much unless the check-engine light stays on (I would think the computer logs the error codes ...)
No customer service these days, even before the economy tanked. People used to stand behind their products.
Many Thanks if you can
John
They applied some stabilant 22 and cleaned the TPS sensor following KT2009012207 Technical article (if that's a date 2009-01-22, it is pretty recent). It worked for about 5 hours. Then it started to happen again. About every 5min.
Based on the codes it seems similar this post (for Hyunday Veracruz) - in that case the ETC Actuator and Gasket was replaced.
2. How did they fix it the first time? In my case they first cleaned the TPS (if I understand it right it is the thing that communicates the info from your accelerator to the engine) which helped for few hours , they replaced it the next day and I haven't have problems since.
the codes that came up again, were p2106, p2195 and p2135.
We had a problem with our 2006 Kia Sedona at about 25,000 miles.
- Suddenly the gas stops responding. The car slows down.
- The Check Engine and ESC-OFF lights turns on.
- The engine continues to run but nothing happens when you push the accelerator pedal.
- Turning the engine of and the restarting fixed the problems temporarily.
The problem repeated about 5 times and got worse each time. The first time we shut down and restarted it worked fine for about 50 miles. By the fifth time it happened it ran only about a mile before it happened again.
It took a few trips to the dealership, but they finally figured out the problem. They replaced both the Accelerator Pedal assembly and the sensor on the engine that the accelerator pedal connects to. That was about 5,000 miles ago and we have not had the problem since.
Do yourself a big favor and pick another vehicle.
I just wish/hope some one who gives a darn at Kia reads this and realizes they are shooting themselves in the foot by ignoring this issue and buyers like you will not buy a Kia and understandably pay a premium for for a Honda or Toyota.
Pretty shortsighted of them; penny-wise, pound foolish for sure.
The problem is that Sedona is safer when the crash occurs, and Odyssey is more reliable, so it might be easier to avoid the crash (it is not very safe to switch into a limb mode while driving on the freeway). Hard to say.
After repeated "turn start key" actions (might take 10 - 15 times), the starter eventually respond and the engine works properly. The phenomena happens all the time, the battery is in a very good condition. Can anybody advise here.
As to the sunroof, if you have one and it's from 2005 or later, read on. So, I'm sure all know that no sunroof is designed to be watertight or airtight. Rather, when water lands on the sunroof there are a series of channels that the water flows into and out of the car unseen. Not so for us and we watched the water leak onto the front seat belt on the passenger side. This was the clue as it was only on the passenger side and leaking exactly where the front side air bag is loaded and bolted next to the A-pillar, slightly above and to the rear of the front passenger. Kia's design here could be a lot better. What Kia does when they make a car with a sunroof is to first install the drainage tubes that handle any water flow on a rainy day. Btw, the design of the tubes is poor all by itself, but should still work. Then, after the tubes are installed along the roofline, they install the side airbag assembly and bolt it in several places to the same approximate location as the drainage tubes. Of necessity, they bolt it well and tighten it. As they tighten the air bag assembly it begins to constrict the drainage tubes and water cannot flow to the aft of the vehicle and then down and out. Rather, it goes to the path of least resistance and drops vertically down into the car about where the front passenger seat belt resides. So, not only will Kia being replacing my instrument control module on our Sedona but will have to take off the entire front side air assembly, repair/replace the drainage tubes, and rebolt the assembly .
I posted this in the hope that it will help others who have similar problems. We bought our Kia because we felt it had great value for the money, looked good, and our only complaint (besides what's being fixed as noted above) is the crappy mileage. No way does it meet the 18-25 listed. That said, the warranty convinced us and now that warranty is paying off big time. Wish we didn't need it but we do and Kia (Bourneval) in Portsmouth, NH, is doing the right thing. We'll see how it goes and just hope this dealership stays alive; Kia dealers seem to be dropping like flies in this economy. Hope this is helpful. - CK
First, tire pressure is always a little gain. I suggest right around 36 PSI. My tires have a max pressure of 44 but with just 3 - 5 extra PSI you will have less rolling resistance and hence better MPG and longer tire life.
Second, is go with a K&N washable air filter and if your slightly brave remove the air-restricting filter right before the MAF sensor in the intake tube. Very easy to do, here is my instructions: http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f16f1df
Third, Go with a full synthetic oil like Mobile One or similar. Synthetic oil not only last longer but lubricates much better and has shown to improve gas mileage as well as improve power. Same can be said about the K&N.
Fourth, and really this is the most important, is driving habits. The ONLY way your going to get 18/25 or better which, I achieve on my 2006, is by keep your foot off the gas pedal. Letting the engine shift right around 2000 RPM's and keeping the your speed limit at 65 MPH or under with not fast starts will give your great gains in MPG. Not easy to do with a powerful engine that is fun to use. Give this a try for a week and see your results. Remember though, it is all about nice and easy starts and stops in traffic and letting the engine shift at low RPM's. I have seen as high as 30 MPG in ideal conditions. Also, Edmund's highest mileage on the 2006 long-term test was 29 MPG @ 25,000 miles. Seems the 3.8's take a while to break in.
Did the grounding problem that you mentioned fix the problem? Have you had any more of these issues with your Sedonas since April?