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I am soooo over this... Can anyone help :mad:
You need to check for fuel delivery. You, or your mechanic should have changed the fuel pump when you changed the engine. If you didn't it would be my first suspect. You will need to check the fuses and then "listen" for the pump to run when you turn on the key (but don't engage the starter). You can disconnect the fuel line to see if you have pressure. Fuel pumps are typically good for about 60,000 miles but may last up to 120,000.
My 2005 Sedona LX (now, 109,000 miles) starts sputtering...ONLY... after it's warmed up, sitting in heavy traffic, and i'm accelerating from a stop or very slow speed. No Codes are thrown.
I've gotten two suggestions on this (one part i had replaced yesterday...so we'll see). One suggestion from mechanic is that their call to California Kia (HQ?) gave them a suggestion from techs that a tech bulletin was issued on 'hot - stall,' and that the suggestion was the Throttle-body Position Sensor should be changed. Done. We'll see if it works.
by thhe way, the second suggestion came from a UTI (Universal Technical Institute) Drivability Instructor who had previously worked at a Kia/Hundai dealer. He put a meter (flight data recorder..they sometimes call it), and found all the numbers very close to perfect, or at least in range....except...the long-term fuel trim, bank #2 was showing a very lean reading. He said that reading came from the O2 (oxygen) sensor. He looked at the O2 sensor for that bank and found it showing a lean reading as well. So, how to fix that??? He was going to look around a bit at some tech bulletins, etc. and get back with me. I'm not in contact with him, so haven't been able to follow up yet, but he didn't have a definite 'smoking gun' part that he suggested changing because of it. A lot of theories, nothing concrete.
I chose to change the TPS and see what happens. If it works I'll post it here. If nothing, I'll only try a few other cheaper options until it gets bad enough to have 'had enough', then I'll get rid of it! We're a one-car family and can't have it down a lot because of this problem, but so far, it's been predictable. 1) hot weather, 2) traffic - hot engine 3) giving it fuel from low idle. I'll, actually, be looking to duplicate these three conditions before too long, when i get a free afternoon (in case i'm stuck on the side of the road for a couple of hours) to see if the TPS fixed it or if i get any of these symptoms again.
We also had other major service done: timing belt (never changed yet), spark plugs (scheduled to change at 100,000), Injector flush. All totaled $1500.00 I invested it because, up until this sporadic problem that can only be duplicated in hot-heavy traffic, our Sedona has been near perfect! We have loved it...and would love to have this problem fixed. hope the TPS does it.
Yes, i've read in the forum A LOT!!!!!....about rotors and brakes. I changed the pads and rotors on this thing 4 times in the first 80,000 miles. (this is the 'near' of the 'near perfect' rating that i mentioned before). However, no problems since then. why? because i replaced the rotors with slotted/drilled high performance rotors that i bought from a rotor company off of the internet and installed myself (it's easy) and the semi-metalic pads that were suggested by the rotor company. I stopped replacing with the thinner Kia rotor that has a tendency to warp when hot and stopped using the ceramic pads, which i notice Kia has stopped using as OE on their newer cars too (at least from what i was told by a parts person). The slotted rotors are a little more noisy, but they stay cooler and no more problems ! (in fairness to Kia, I also changed out both of the rear brake pistons ....forgot the name of the little thing.... because they were both showing slight leakage). This is wierd that they both went at the same time and i attribute it to the pressure having to be placed on the front bad brakes and rotors.
All of that to say. The brakes are fine now, and the van has been a gem for us. We've owned bad cars and good cars. This has, for 100,000 miles been one of our better choices (price included).
I'm not paid by kia, work for kia, and would prefer to buy a Honda van (or Toyota if they can get it together), but for the money, we haven't been disappointed with our Kia purchase. We feel we've gotten our money's worth out of it.
By best suggestion is: give yourself plenty of margin in your schedule. It's a healtheir way to live anyway : )
chat again later
No more stalling after changing the TPS - Throttle Body Position Sensor (limited high heat situations so far, but seems to be working).
Any advice?
Has anyone else had these problems?
Timing belt change (this was supposed to be done at 60,000)
Spark Plugs changed (platnum: recommended at 100,000)
fuel injection flush (trying to solve the bucking problem in traffic)
Throttle Body Position Sensor - TPS (trying to solve the bucking problem in traffic)
The TPS change was a 'bulletin' that had been posted by the California Kia Tech line as a "high heat, stalling' fix.
We have been sitting in heavy traffic since this work was done. The engine has gotten hot (not by temp dial), and would have, before this work was done, stalled or started bucking during acceleration from a stop, and it has not done it any more since the work was completed. So, to date, the problem is fixed.
It might have been a combination of the TPS, spark plugs, and injectors. Or it might have been any one of them (the timing belt wasn't likely the fix). However, Kia California would put their money on a faulty TPS. For what it's worth. let me know if this seems to fix it.
David
Philadelphia
Unfortunately, I am out of the country, so I cannot use the warranty. If I knew I would have so many problems with it, I would have never bought it.
- The Check Engine and ESC-OFF lights turns on.
- The engine continues to run but nothing happens when you push the accelerator pedal.
- Turning the engine off and the restarting fixed the problems temporarily.
- However, I can feel the acceleration power loss.
- When I checked the engine malfunction signal at autozone, it dispalyed P1295, P2106, P2135.
Real problem is tha I already passed factory warrant miles, ...
All that I have is 3 month powertrain warranty program (engine, transmission, drive axle). I wonder if this malfunction can be covered by this warranty.
How much will it cost and if it happens again dealership would fix it without charge?
I don't think powertrain warrant can cover software change
but how about TPS change? (somebody said it's for TSB, TPS, APS or accel position sensor)
Also I can ask to fix it without charge if same malfunction comes on again after fix?
I'm answering because you might have the same thing i had; but not sure. you should have been able to see my fix through the thread. ( have a Sedona 2005 LX, 110,000 miles.
My bottom line problem was: stalling ONLY DURING ACCELERATION; AND ONLY WHEN THE ENGINE HAD GOTTEN HOT FROM SITTING IN RUSHOUR TRAFFIC, OR SLOW MOVING TRAFFIC ON A HOT DAY. IT ONLY HAPPENED DURING ACCELLERATION; NEVER WHEN I WAS ALREADY MOVING AT A MODERATE TO FAST SPEED.
It never seemed dangerous, just inconvenient as it would have to be babied to get it back home. sometimes stalling or near stall several times before getting home. If i would just sit on the side of the road for 15 minutes...long enough for the engine to cool off some; most of the time it ran fine; unless i got back in to bumper-to-bumper traffic.
Same symptoms of: NO CODES, and the garage couldn't replicate the problem, no matter what they did.
My Fix...it seems! : During this time, i figured that i needed to change the timing belt which was overdue by 50,000 miles, and the spark plugs changed, which were 10,000 overdue. And i had an Injector Flush. Actually flushed, not an additive, and, after the garage called the california kia tech help, they were advised that a service bulletin for "high heat" stalling named the fix as changing the TPS (Throttle Body Position Sensor). The mechanic couldn't figure out why that would be the fix. But he changed it at my request.
To-Date: I've been sitting in a lot of traffic (in Philadelphia) since that work was done, and not once has it stalled or sputtered, etc. IT 'SEEMS' THAT ONE OF THE THINGS THAT THEY CHANGED WORKED...AND SUPPOSEDLY IT WAS THE TPS.
Wish i could be more certain, but it fits the service bulletin symptoms, and the symptoms stopped when they followed the service repair recommendation (tps). So, I would go with that first and see where it leads.
Hope it helps,
David
Timing Belt: Changed
Spark Pluges: changed
injector system: flush
Throttle-Body Position Sensor: Changed
I haven't had any further problems, even in heavy traffic and high heat, since that time. I assume it was the TSP that did the trick.
Hope this helps.
David
Philly
thanks to all
Thanks to all
There was a service bulletin out of California that mentioned the TPS as the fix for this high-heat stalling issue; and it seems they were right. Why??? Don't ask me, and the guys at the dealer couldn't figure it out either.
Thanks again
Thanks
Cindy
:confuse: :mad:
Thanks for the response. I've always suspected it had something to do with a security glitch but my Kia dealer wouldn't hear anything of it. I'm going to give this a try. I wonder why Kia wouldn't just fix this (at $350) vs. replacing 2 ipms costing thousands? Go figure.
Our Sedona has about 107,000 miles on it. It started the stalling problem in September. I was leaving work and coasting to a stop out of the parking lot and it just shut off. I thought, that was odd, but continued to drive after restarting it right away. I drove a few more miles and while sitting at a red light, it stalled again. It started up right away and I drove a few more miles home. The next day, I set out for a 400 mile trip in it at 5 a.m. About 10 miles down the interstate it gave a good jerk. I thought I lost the cargo carrier of the roof of the van. What had happened was it stalled and restarted. It felt like it was bump starting. It did it again about 30 miles later, then again about 10 more. But, the whole rest of the trip it was fine. While I was at my destination, I started the van up in the parking lot and let it run while I was charging my cell for a bit. It stalled at one point, but then restarted right away. Then, the whole drive home (400 miles) it did not do anything and ran fine. About a month ago, I drove it about 100 miles away and it stalled at an intersection and would not restart. Tried and tried. It was cold (about 35 degrees) and the kids were getting pretty cold inside the broke down van as we waited 3 hours for AAA to show up. Ice on the inside of the windows cold. I'd try it every once in a while, but it wouldn't restart. However, on one occassion it did. It ran for about 10 minutes and then stalled and wouldn't restart. The tow truck brought it home. When I got home the same night, I got in it, started it, and drove it into the driveway. Needless to say, I'm afraid to drive it anywhere. I don't mind spending money to fix it, but I don't want to spend money on the wrong thing.
I've had people mention the fule pump. I've seen people mention a crank shaft problem of some sort. Some have said maybe electrical... I just don't get it. What is the problem? Others on here have had the same exact problems as me.
Also, a couple years ago, we started getting the check engine light. It seemed to be for no reason. The van ran fine. There were no problems. Took it to Autozone and they said the code was indicating some sort of sensor in the neck of the fuel fill that might be bad. But, I didn't worry about it. I thought maybe the cap didn't get tighted right or it was overfilled or something.
Please help with the stalling issue though. I would really appreciate it!
Thanks!