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Kia Sedona Starting/Stalling/Idling Problems

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Comments

  • flactemflactem Member Posts: 8
    Thanks, but I'd like to get a few more uninterupted miles out of it. I'd rather pay a little and get some time out of it. It would be cheaper than buying a new one. I find it very hard to beleave that nobody has the answer to this common problem.
  • sedona02sedona02 Member Posts: 3
    It was the crank shift sensor on ours, we asked the the mechanic to fix it and they did, we have had no more problems with the car shutting off, apparently the reason it shuts off is that the car does not recognize the key is in the ignition, it is really scary though. We got it fixed close to a year ago, and it is still running, thought we were going to junk it, but it is running great.
  • flactemflactem Member Posts: 8
    Thanks. I'm going to look into trying this first, I think. We are due for a timing belt change, as we've never done it yet and we have 107k miles on it. I suppose the next try would be a fuel pump.?.

    Thanks again.
  • jpfjpf Member Posts: 496
    The O2 sensors involve the emissions systems. If you let it go for a while, it could damage your catalytic convertor. I would get it fixed. Good luck and have a safe trip.
  • mr_monzamr_monza Member Posts: 1
    What Buick are you going to buy for half price of a Sedona? A '94 Roadmaster? If you have an extended warranty, what reason are they giving you for not fixing the car?
  • tasbury1tasbury1 Member Posts: 3
    Any really. My Sedona cost me $38,826 and that was plain nothing extra. The paint has litteralyy fallin goff of it. To daye it has 16,814 mikles on it and had cost me $44,200 in towing and repair bills. Oh they will repaird it but it's always "Oh that isn't covered under the warranty anymore" When I ask what IS covered under the waranty its "We'll have to check and run a complete service on the vehicle to check part numbers and dates of installation."
  • concreteman3concreteman3 Member Posts: 1
    edited February 2012
    2004 kia sedonia engine light comming on had ck showed code-- po 146
    took to dealer fixed they said .Got back then light comming on again then car stalled in road.Took to another dealer said ecm fuse blown replaced started right up.Then shut off again blowing another fuse.ANYONE HAVE A CLUE AS TO WHAT THE PROBLEM MAY BE.
  • flactemflactem Member Posts: 8
    I don't know. But, we finally took ours to a service garage. And, of course, it would not show a code or any symptoms. They ran it all day and never would stall. Since we are over due for timing belt and water pump at 107k, they thought they'd go ahead and replace the crank shaft sensor. I hope that's it!!!
  • kcdollskcdolls Member Posts: 2
    Well now that I read these messages I dont' think my problem is a new one or unique but maybe some advise would help me determine the way forward.

    I have a 2004 kia sedona with 174k miles. Over the past 6 months it has started hesitating etc. We had the coils and spark plugs etc replaced. Then in the past two weeks it has started stalling. Once when I was low on gas, goin down the high way. I pulled over and waited a few minutes then it started right back up. I filled the tank up and had no other issues. A week later when again I stopped for gas when I went to start it back up it wouldn't start. Would spin but not turn over. The guy next to me jumped it off and i took it to the auto zone to have the battery tested. Autozone said needed no battery we changed that at no cost (since it was relatively new battery) and then again the car would not start. Had a friend come up and jump the car and it started. I drove it home, the next day the car started fine. I drove it for about 20 minutes and it lost all power (on the highway) caught again and then lost all power and stalled. Again after that it would spin but not actually start. I had it towed to the shop who said it was a fuel pump relay. The changed it out I was going to pick up the car the next morning. They called back and said it acted up again.

    Now they say could be electrical in the harness, could be 10-20 hours labor with no guaranteed solution. I know it is old and well used but I would like to keep it for abuot 6 more months, without having to dump thousands of dollars into it. Any suggestions?
  • flactemflactem Member Posts: 8
    sounds very familliar. Like I said in a previous post, the service garage I took mine to thought it "COULD BE" a crankshaft sensor and that's the route we chose to go. I believe there were was also a post by someone else that went this route too. I'm only a couple weeks in, but I'm very cautious about how far I stray from home...especially now that it's pretty cold out!

    Good luck to you and I hope this has resolved it for me. I also want to get some more time out of the vehicle. The longer I can go without a car payment, I feel, is a good thing.
  • kslatonkslaton Member Posts: 1
    Only 70K miles and like others we are having stalling problems. Two trips to the dealer with no success. Seems they cannot replicate the problem and it never stalls when they drive it!!! None of their expert mechanics can correctly diagnose and fix it.

    My wife is afraid to drive the car now with the kids; it stalled on her when making a turn and she was in the middle of an intersection.

    I have filed a complaint with Kia Motors Consumer Affairs stating that the dealer either won't or can't fix it. I also advised Kia that if an accident results because of this I will initiate legal action against the dealer and against Kia Motors. Waiting now to see if anyone responds.
  • flactemflactem Member Posts: 8
    Good Luck! I hope it works out. Let me know what the resolution is. I'm still hesitant to travel too far in mine. Especially when it's cold and I have the kids with me.
  • kitcar04kitcar04 Member Posts: 1
    My 2005 Sedona Van has been in the repair shop since December 4th 2011. Kia has been uncooperative w/ my mechanic the entire way. They wont provide him with answers and they make him wait for his ordered parts. I've never experienced such unprofessionalism in my life. My warranty has ended so of course Kia wanted us to bring the van to them so they can charge us more than what the van is worth to fake fix it ...forget that. My mechanic brought to my attention a little fact...Did you know that a Kia 05 Sedona's schedule maintenance tune up...replacing timing belt etc...is needed at 60,000 miles...mean while a Honda with the same exact specs does not require this same exact maintenance tune up until it hits 105,000 miles. The difference is Honda uses only top quality parts.
  • jlaw263jlaw263 Member Posts: 3
    My 2005 sedona van has been stalling on and off now for the past 2 weeks now, I noticed twice the gas tank was very low when it stalled. A few times it started right back up, a couple of times it had to sit for maybe an hour before it started up again. Took it to the mechanic he mentioned now it could be crankshaft sensor - Didn't realize this was a common problem with Sedonas.
  • jlaw263jlaw263 Member Posts: 3
    Same exact problem on my kia sedona 2005. Looking for someone that has had the correct fix - my mechanic said maybe crankshaft sensor, I am taking it in this week. I'll ask him about the fuel pump. Over the weekend the first stall we waited about 2 hours for it to restart and then it stalled and started up right away a few times getting back home. My gas tank was very low when the stall happened - is that the same case with you?
  • flactemflactem Member Posts: 8
    Well, I thought we were out of the water... We haven't had any issues, until now. My wife was driving it home from the park (about 3 miles) and as she was slowing to a red light, she noticed the check engine light came on, the RPM's dropped way down, then stalled. She cranked it a couple different times, then it started back up and got her the rest of the way home.

    So, now I am left to wonder if the crankshaft sensor that I paid to have replaced was even the culprit.

    What could it be now??
  • jake1970jake1970 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 04 Sadona MiniVan and I wanted to let everyone know that I have been having the same problems with my van stalling while running and while idling. Today was the end to that I hope but I hope that you all can get it fixed before this happens to you, I was told that the stalling (after getting it looked at several times with no answers) was because it was skipping on the timing and today that skip blew my motor. It is going to cost me almost 3,000 dollars for a new used motor and the timing kit to fix it and we have owned this van for less than 6 months. Just as a heads up to everyone.
  • kcdollskcdolls Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 Kia Sedona that started do the same thing.. it woudl run then lag after a while it started stalling on me. After being stranded on the road with the kids I called the tow truck. The shop said it was a simple gas tank relay. Said it started right back up after they switched it with the horn relay to try it out. The new relay came in and I was picking it up the next morning when I got a call saying they took it on another test drive and it died. Said until it died completely they could guess but would cost up to 2000 and no guarantees. I picked it up it ran fine all the way home and then wouldn't start.

    After two weeks of not starting my husband called the shop back and told him it wasn't getting gas (he checked the lines). They towed it back it ended up being a gas tank circuit (I hope that is the right word) in the wiring harness. the shop said until it died completely they would never have found it. The van has run great since i got it back... (knock on wood).
  • gxpkygxpky Member Posts: 1
    I know this will probably sound repetitive but here's my problem. Starts sporadically, cranks and turns over fine...seems like it is flooding because if you finally get it started after trying and failing there is a strong smell of gas. The first time it had trouble starting the check engine light came on...had it checked out but had no codes show. The van is still low miles only 85,000 on an '04 Kia sedona, purchased it with 54,000 miles on it. As with most people it will never fail to start if you take it to get it checked out....soooo annoying.

    Codes showing yesterday when I took it to auto zone are as follows: PO181, PO128, and PO118.

    Anyone know where I should start?
  • sedonakill_iasedonakill_ia Member Posts: 1
    I have an 05 with all the same symptoms. I even went as far as to replace the fuel pump, spark plugs, and belts. Fail!!! Big time. If all else fails, I have unplugged my mass air flow sensor and I haven't had any noticeable problems with the way it runs. But there is still a strong smell of gas when its idle. I'm sure this is not the correct way to fix it, but KIA left us with a mysterious problem with an incorrect product so what exactly is "correct" in this case? I did that because, it seems to run fine when I unplug it but as soon as I plug it back in, it stalls. I'm sure I'm on to something here, but this is a temporary fix which could lead to more issues. I have a very run down Sedona so I am willing to experiment. Please let me know how your situation turned out.
  • avroomavroom Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a 04 Sedona with 114000 km. Seems Kia couldn't fix it and the owner had to sell it for something else. Then Kia sold the van without fixing it and I ended up with it. It had a few problems. A leaking oil pan so I had to replace it and 4 litres of oil. A squeeky fan belt that was replaced but turned up loose 30000 kms later with a damaged idler pulley. The stalling became apparent on hot days. It would restart a half hour or so later. I drove it and it stalled just before a bridge upramp. Had to tow it and Kia got it started a couple of hours later but as it kept sputtering out they discovered the connection between the fuse and pump was suspect (0volts)so they rewired it temporarily to the heater fan. I still have to resolve a front brake probem. The original owner said the pump was changed because? Good luck to all.
  • avroomavroom Member Posts: 2
    I just want to add I am not certain where the voltage fault was. Anyways pump voltage was 0volts with ignition on.
  • guidojguidoj Member Posts: 3
    I too own a 2005 Kia Sedona and am experiencing problems. My van all of a sudden stopped working. everything was fine, the next minute all lights and radio working... but no power to the starter. when this occurred, I waited 24 hours and it started again. I read blogs regarding fuse box / junction, thinking that this may have been the problem.......it was'nt. I still get power to all electrical components, but not to starter... any other suggestions?
  • guidojguidoj Member Posts: 3
    Hello all, I am new to this community, and feel everyone's frustration. I have June 04 kia sedona ex, I bought in Sept. ' 06 to present June 2012. I have experienced 4 front lights burn out within a year ( the idiot who assembled the front light assembly...should be given a swift kick ....you know where), new battery and radiator in Jan. 2011, and now.......

    two weeks ago van would NOT START. Power is fine, bells and whistles.. check! The Darn thing just WON'T SUPPLY POWER TO STARTER...at times...for a three day period..started twice in the morning and is now completely dead. I have read all the horror stories people are having with their SEDONA, and I have to tell myself " Oh..Oh". I have bought and installed a brand new IPM / Kia's ..Block Assy-Junction Box ( Part # OK53W 66730A -$ 18.00), and nothing! Not a thing. Sad to say but ...I will be joining the ranks among you. Any help will be appreciated.
    Don't want wife and kids out stranded. I am familiar with cars myself and am stumped on this one. I tried to look under chassis for starter...and found in engine compartment...under engine...( those bastards)....nice place....real nice place..along with transmission too..all rolled up nice and tight. I am thinking... contacts onStarter loose, faulty relays or switches?

    Any suggestions are appreciated. Thank You
  • guidojguidoj Member Posts: 3
    Hello everyone, here is my update with my '05 Sedona. I took my minivan in to a nearby shop and they tested the starter......finding out that the starter was the problem....and the check engine light came on to read that my crank sensor also needed to be replaced. Wow, needless to say that I had the starter replaced and the check engine light reset. No more issues....(crossing my fingers)
  • mary05mary05 Member Posts: 5
    :mad: Bought our 05 Sedona about 3 years ago- had just about 70,000 miles on it when we bought it. As I read the owner's manual,I found out that the timing belt should be changed right about the mileage that we bought it. I called the dealer and complained, but of course was told they don't replace things like that to sell them unless they were broken. Sounds legit, right? So we decided to take a trip out west and had everything done"just in case". Had the timing belt, serpentine belt, water pump, coolant system flush, tires, etc. Other than having a few minor issues and having to replace the battery, it's been pretty reliable the past 3 years. 2 weeks ago, which is ONLY 42,000 miles since all that work was done, I was driving in a parking lot when everything just shut off. The mechanic says the tension pulley to the water pump broke, the pump broke, and the timing belt got frayed. However, since the engine is an "interefrence" engine, it means that since the water pump broke and timing belt got frayed, it damaged the engine to the point that we need another engine! We only had 114,000 miles on it- PLUS all that stuff was replaced 42,000 miles ago! We were then informed that, unfortunately with these "interference" engines, known in layman's terms as "motor wreckers", you have to replace all the belts and pumps BEFORE they fray or break, because when they do, they damage and bend rods, pistons, etc. When I pointed out that they were replaced already, he said it must have just been a "flukey" thing. Apparently, the interference engines are the auto industry's answer to getting better fuel efficiency and they let the engine breathe better, but the consequences are they are easily damaged. So, question 1: How could the Kia dealer that sold us the van claim, responsibly and ethically, that they don't replace things like that unless they are broken when they (should) know full well that those things MUST be replaced at the recommended intervals because it's too late once they DO break? By the way, don't take MY word for it- google it yourseves about these engines- which most of the industry is using now as consumers are UNAWARE! Question 2: Since we DID have the water pump and timing belt and serpentine belt and everything else replaced at the proper time, shouldn't Kia be liable for the fact that the engine has to be replaced, even though we did the right thing? No, it's not under warranty, but something just isn't right here. :mad:
  • rellison0267rellison0267 Member Posts: 1
    This interference problem has nothing to do with the belt you say broke and the water pump breaking. The only belt that has anything to do with the "interference" part is the timing belt. Interference means that the pistons are timed so that the valves open up a VERY specific times adn if the timing is off the pistons will run "interference" with your valves. Very unfortunate that this happened to you. Belt should have been replaced at 60,000 per the manufacturer specifications (If I remember right). KIA won't be held responsible because as the owner, you are left holding the peices to have them do the work for you based on your owner's manual recommendations. It sucks, the automotive industry has a ton of gaps for this type of thing. Always follow your owner's manual recommendations. I'm gambling with mine right now. Just passing 100K and I just don't want to do it. I hate working on KIA's and I think they are the "bic" lighters of automobiles meaning they are disposable after they run for so long. Might as well toss it and get another one. Will never buy another KIA again. Sorry to hear of your worries.
  • mary05mary05 Member Posts: 5
    When we bought it, it already had 70,000 miles on it. Since we were planning a ig trip, we looked in the manual to see when belts should be replaced, etc. When I asked the salesman why they didn't replace our belt at the recommended interval, he said they don't replace them unless they're broken. that sounded legit at the time- but we decided to have it replaced- and the water pump, the tension pulley, serpentine belt, etc- we had all of it done- nothing had broken yet. The point is, that even though we replaced all that stuff, at only a little over 40,000 miles later, the tension pulley to the water pump broke, and the service guy said our timing belt didn't break, but it was "frayed"- he said the it frayed because the tension pulley to the water pump broke and put the strain on the timing belt or something like that because it is an interference engine. He replaced everything, but the engine would no longer hold compression. I also though it was funny- in an irritating way- when I found out to even just replace the spark plugs the manifold had to come off. Sheesh.
  • kianightmarekianightmare Member Posts: 1
    Hey Philly Dave. I recently bought a 05 Kia Sedona and it has the exact same issues as yours I have only changed the TPS but it still is running the same. Could you please give an update on wether or not your sedona is still running good after all you have done?
  • champhammerchamphammer Member Posts: 3
    Having the same problems as everyone else here, van will start when cold, run's great for 10-15 mins then engine shakes, stalls, loses power, will not start till cooled down (30-45min's later) engine then starts and shuts off right away, I have read the comments about the service bulletin for the high heat, did changing the TPS throttle position sensor work? I just changed the plugs and oil, so this will be a hopefully easy fix... any thought's?
  • champhammerchamphammer Member Posts: 3
    Sorry to hear that the TPS did not fix it, I am going to try it on my 2002 kia sedona van, did the plugs and oil change, run's great until hot... then all hell brakes loose. By reading the other comment's have you changed your plugs or wires(wires only get changed if needed, not cheap, $184 up here in Canada)!!
  • fixmycar2004fixmycar2004 Member Posts: 1
    I read your story and here is mine. Did you deal with any of this?
    have a 2004 KIA Sedona. I recently took the car in because it would not start. I let it sit for awhile, tried it again and it started however, the check engine light came on so I took it to my KIA dealer for service. I was told, the code that came up had something to do with the fuel system. That repair was made and I drove the car off the lot only to have the same issue happen again. Upon returning to the dealer, although the same codes were coming up, I was told that it had something to do with the harness and the wiring. That was fixed. I drove the car off the lot again only to have the exact same issue occur again. I took the car back to the dealer and after two weeks of back and forth, they replaced the computer. I drove the vehicle for approximately 100 miles in order to get the inspection sticker and guess what, tried to drive it from my driveway and again, it would not start. My vehicle is now at the dealer again, and I have no idea what is wrong, and neither do they. Please help?
  • champhammerchamphammer Member Posts: 3
    Hi, well I have ran into the same problems as you. Here is what I did to fix it I hope:
    1. Changed the oil
    2. Changed the plugs, and inspected the wires for cracks and signs of worn out ect, put bosch plugs in platinum style.
    3. New intake gasket, cleaned everything that I could, TPS (throttle poistion sensor and MASS Air Flow sensor, and what ever else looked dirty (intake too)
    4. Took van to Canadian Tire, scanned the cold, code 109, MASS Air Flow.
    5. Now replacing the mass air flow sensor and going from there.

    This should fix the problem, the van is already running better, google Mass Air flow sensor and it will tell you exactly what it does for the vehicle, pretty important ect.

    Check your coils, see if there is 12 volts at the wires where they plug into the coils, if they are cracked in any way or were hot and got wet, more than likely are done, but not cheap to replace, about $104 each here in CAN.

    If your hand and can get into a garage or a buddies, taking the intake is easier than it looks, hardest part is the back 4-6 bolt's which you will need a 10mm and a 12mm 1/4 drive socket and the rest of the plug ins are plug and play, make note of the two coolant hoses on the bottom of the coolant sensor that go into the intake ect. If not let the mechanics do it.

    But it sounds like they don't know what they are doing, seek another KIA garage or go to Hyundia since they make them.

    Good Luck. :shades:
  • saboteursaboteur Member Posts: 1
    edited September 2012
    Experienced the same ignition problem 4 days after purchasing a 2011 Sedona. The engine won't start...or won't start at random times...because the security system is not recognizing the key properly. Take your vehicle to a Kia dealership and ask them to check for a faulty ipm module. I say go to Kia because Kia has to reprogram your key if the module is replaced so the security system will work.
  • jpfjpf Member Posts: 496
    With most OHC engines water pump runs off timing belt. If water pump fails for some reason, it could cause the timing belt to skip or break which causes the engine damage. The only way to avoid the issue of interference engines is to buy a non-interference engine (i.e., Chrysler vans with 3.3 or 3.8 V6; GM Astro, Safari with 4.3 V6; GM Venture, Montana, Uplander, Montana SV6 with 3.5 or 3.9 V6). The Chrysler and GM vans with these engines are all out of productiion and can only be bought used. GM does not make a minivan anymore. New Chrysler vans are OHC.
  • eddieededdieed Member Posts: 3
    I have seen a no start condition in a neighbors 2005 Kia Sedona. Turn the key and nothing. It had a brand new starter installed just a little over a month ago and ran until now. Since the starter did not operate checked battery voltage-battery was bought recently- good battery voltage and clean and tight connections - ok, checked starter relay( in box towards drivers side next to battery, clicking and upon applying 12 volts between 85&86 continuity occured at 87&30 working proper : ok, Starter connections checked-tight and clean, jumped starter, solenoid kicked and spun ( whining sound) with no start. Moving large wire around from battery to starter obtained a start condition. Replaced battery to starter wiring, problem solved.
    Since this repair I have seen another sedona with same problem and same solution.
  • eddieededdieed Member Posts: 3
    Check your wiring from the battery to the starter, I have found two Sedona's with a similar problem. Move the large wire around.
  • eddieededdieed Member Posts: 3
  • flactemflactem Member Posts: 8
    That sounds great, but could that cause a car to just simply shut off if it is already running.
  • iniholzeriniholzer Member Posts: 1
    We have a 2006 Kia Sedona that is idols low and feels like stalling. Also on start-up will be jerky or jumpy. Had transmission replaced, but still does it. Thought it could be fuel filter, but after reading thinking it is TPS. Is this similar to other noted issues? Starts out small and then gets worse? No lights come on during this process...help.
  • mahabonemahabone Member Posts: 1
    Having similar problems with my 2004 Sedona EX. Starts cold every time (ie, first thing in the morning) but it won't turn over if the van had been driven withing the last 30-60 minutes.
    Power OK.
    Starting cranking like a champ.
    Runs OK once started, as well as one could expect from a KIA.
    I know I have a leak in the power steering. Mechanic said its a leak in the rack which would cost $1000 to fix. Same mechanic who charged me $500 to replace the PS pump and it only made it leak faster. I've been keeping the fluid topped off.
    The CHECK ENGINE light is one, so I took it over to AutoZone. Got a Texas Hold'Em flop of error codes:

    p0455
    EVAP emission system - leak detected - large leak
    Probable Cause
    Faulty Fuel Cap (feels fine to me)
    Leakage in Emission System
    Faulty vent solenoid

    p0116
    ECT sensor range performance condition
    Probable cause
    Poor electrical connection
    Open or short circuit condition
    Faulty ECT scanner

    p0705
    Transaxle range signal malfunction
    Probably Cause
    Open or short circuit condition
    Poor electrical connection
    Misadjusted transaxle range switch
    Failed transaxle range switch

    p0181
    Fuel temperature circuit range/performance
    Probable cause
    Poor electrical connection
    Faulty fuel temperature sensor

    Any idea which one could be causing the issue?

    TL:DR version - Kia Sedona won't start warm.
  • cherisa27cherisa27 Member Posts: 1
    A few months ago my van died, battery was dead so we replaced it, then about 3 weeks ago same thing, this time we were able to start it(randomly) and rushed to Oreily's where they said the alternator was bad, my husband took it apart(which im sure some of you know is a whole other story), and took both battery and alternator to 3 places ALL said battery and alternator were fine... While putting it BACK together he replaced the 3 top/front spark plugs, and one coil was snapped in 1/2, so we replaced that. The van will start, but after a good 6-8hours it has a hard time the 1st time I start it, shut off wait 10-20mins and starts normal, and after a few hrs everytime we start it the a/c is turned off... I have NEVER had to turn the a/c back on everytime I get in the car... We have 4 young kids so I havent actually taken the car anywhere, test drives around the neighborhood and it runs fine... Does anyone have any idea what could cause this or if the 2 things are even related???

    Thanks.
  • smashley87smashley87 Member Posts: 1
    Hi everyone!
    I have a 2005 Kia Sedona with 166,000 miles on it. I recently took her to a shop to have the timing belt replaced. 1,000 dollars and a new radiator later....my timing is too high and the car now idles so high that when you stop at a light it tries to continue going. They also informed me that my van is now only running on 5 cylinders, pretty sure it was running on 6 when I gave it to them. Needless to say I decided not to let them touch my van again. I asked if I could get away with driving it for a few weeks with out getting it fixed due to Christmas costs, etc. and was told it should be fine. So, besides the high idling the van has rode great even though it has been sucking my gas like crazy.
    Here is my new problem: Yesterday I left work and the van drove fine, I drove to the bus stop and waited for 15 minutes with the van running like I do 5 days a week, this time after I had the kids I put the van in drive and it tried to stall out. I hit the gas quickly and it went. I drove all the way to the house and it died in the middle of the street, I coasted into park and tried repeatedly to get the van to start. Every time it would start and then immediately die. I waited about 20 minutes, went outside and tried again, same result. I cut off the stereo and heat and tried again. This time the car ran and did fine.
    I got out, checked all my fluids, battery, alternator and everything was fine (except my brand new radiator being empty). I drove it to an advance auto to have it checked out and I did not have the issue for the rest of the night.
    So today I woke up and started the van 20 minutes before I needed to leave. Got the kids packed into the car, put the van in drive and wallah! It went! I made it down the hill, around the corner, and to the busy intersection and it died. I could get it to restart only to immediately die if I did not have my foot pressed all the way down on the gas petal. Every time I tried to switch gears it died. I finally managed to get the car back home by keeping my foot on both the brake and the gas and slammed the car in reverse, it tried to stall out but I forced it back to my house in reverse, I did not want to be broke down or make the kids walk in 13 degree weather.

    I read a lot of the comments on here and saw that a lot of people had issues because a cylinder was bad (which I obviously have) and because of cold weather. I never had this issue until yesterday when it was 27 degrees, our weather has not really been below 50 until now. Im just wondering would the issue be fixed if I had the timing fixed or if it has something to do with my fuel? It seems like it is not getting any gas. I know timing has a lot to do with how much gas you get too, but you know how vehicles can be tricky...and I do not know a damn thing about cars.
    Please help!!!!!
  • applejoeapplejoe Member Posts: 5
    have 05 kia sedona am 3rd owner hving purchased used w/1000y where fom 5min-0 mi. present mileage 80000. intermitent starting problem, cranks but not turn over intermitent. stop for gas will not start again, just cranks. or stop for grocery or shopping and will not restart. have to wait 5min-30 min and will start right up. sometimes goes for days no problem. wife will not drive it having being stuck several times. been mostly trouble free since now. previous complaints before are lousy gas mileage and brakes that dont last. help aplejoe
  • applejoeapplejoe Member Posts: 5
    originally thought fuel filter was cause as it felt maybe filter was clogged or dirty since never changed filter from buying at 10,000 mi to now 80,000 mi. was told there is no in line filter like most cars but filter is in fuel tank. also since reading forum and others with similar problem , have started flicking lock unlock button several times and then try starting. can get started within 15 min. dont know if that did it or just got lucky. started saying a prayer each time i have to use the car cant hurt. am leaning to think computer or sensor problem. kia should issue recall if they want to keep customers. also peeved when purchased car if u are 2nd owner or higher original waranty of 10/100k is cut in half to 5/50. what kind of bs is that. waranty should be same until used up
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