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Try Edmunds TRUE MARKET VALUE PRICING
it's better I think!
(he would say that, wouldn't he?) :P
The values it gives straight up are:
trade:$6,299
private party: $7,595
retail: $8,944
They are asking $7950, I was going to offer $7200 or so.
Thanks.
5500 down payment, I lose 4000 dollars on the lease (I owe 20000 and they are going to give me 16000), the BMW is priced at 32,700 with 27K miles. At 6.25% APR I will be paying 630 a month for 63 months.
Is this a good or a bad deal?? I am leaning towards no deal but would love to hear some opinions on this. Thanks
just drove an 08 with low miles, sport pkge and the works. love the ride. wondering if the summer tires will be undriveable in the NE winter. will I need to take my wife's truck everytime it snows?
on the ohter hand, I could just order a brand new 335 coupe with just an auto tranny (that's all I'd really need, no this and that) for about 43k msrp., or just 3k more than that used one mentioned above.
if I bought the used one, could I just change to regular all seasons tires? do they make them for this specific model and wheel package?
thanks.
Were I in your shoes, I'd buy the 335i SP and then buy a set of winter wheels and tires for it.
Best regards,
Shipo
you think I could order SP and tell them to have all seasons on them? I mean, I'm never going to explore the outer reaches of its adhesion (intentionally, anyway). besides, skid pad #s of .85 for all seasons vs. .90 or something for summers isn't that much difference. I just wanted the car for the engine.
and, at approx what miles would you need to do such work?
thanks.
Best regards,
Shipo
If my wife can do it for three years, anyone can...
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what is a reasonable price?
On AWD vs 2 whell drive, I have driven both and AWD with the right tires is almost unstoppable in blizzards in New England. So you will be fine. AWD with summer tires or average all-season tires will not be as good especially if you use summer tires all year round. Hope this helps.
what is a reasonable price?
On the other hand, love the new car experience and I get the full 4 year warranty. Not to mention when it's time to sell or trade in I'm the original owner, does that help resale or trade in value?
Any thoughts on what you'd do with a 35k budget looking for an AWD BWM 328 ?
I tried looking for the pros and cons of the two, but could not find the thread.
2008 335i Convertible, 9,500 mi, Premium & Cold Weather pkgs, Comfort ACcess & Satellite radio.
Offered $49,995
What should I expect as my best deal?
I am being offered $34,999 for a 2007 335i Sedan with everything except cold weather. 37k miles, lease return. I figure I should be able to get down to $30,000. What do you guys think?
In my area BMW 328i, according to Edmund is worth around $30K but similarly equipped and mileages on a used BMW, dealer is asking around $24K to $27K. What is wrong here?
has anyone ever exceeded 500K miles... I have! and Im here to to tell you there is no one on this plannet that can tell me this isn't the Utilmateachine. I owned a 325i 4 dr manual.....I acutually never had any problem. I live in the Calif. L.A. area, my mechanic South Bay Indepednat bmw in Gardena...they are the best. when I needed an oil change, they check everything.... I never took this car to a dealer...and I purchased it used with 60K already on it and no history report back in the day. I kept oil changes and service routinely.... Never needed a trans, and did not ever have a clutch until I gave it to my sister and to honest she drove it a yr longer and traded for a 530. at that time the only thing was happening the trunk started to leak when it rained. Im sold, no matter what I will probably never own another brand... although the benz is started to look alittle more snazzy.... NAWwww! can't do it.
Love yu beemer lovers
Im picking up a 540il tomorrow used one owner 161K miles- clean.....MIles do not scare me. that is if it has been taken care of.
I find that VERY hard to believe.
What year? Any pics of the odometer?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I had 1987 4 dr, let me see if I can find one in my old photos and copy and past
I did not ever recall having a clutch replaced... Maybe when I purchase it with the existing miles the shop already put a new one... Don't know, But I just did nit have any problems. I never did any of that down shifting, I never rode my clutch... Because I was taught not to. once I gave it to my sister she had to replace it.
That is what baffles me so much when hear other people always having a clutch problem. The learned now to drive astick on a 911 or 914 porsche....those gears are so close together that you could really strip them fast.
now I have jusT purchased a 95 318i conv
It has been lowered and it has a little shaking to it in the inital acceleration...do yo all think it is the upper and lower control arms or front and rear (which ever this car has)
or just the bushing.
And the plastic window...can't see a thing...Is there something to clear this so I can see.
Help Help Help.
I purchased a certified 2007 328i in the North Bay area on 11/30/09.
It had 18400 miles, with auto and metallic paint being the options.
It was listed for $25,900 and I got it for $25,000.
I obtained 0.9% financing thru BMW financing.
Of interested, BMW is paying the first two months car payments. I had to tweak my payment schedule to maximize my monthly payments to get "more money" out of BMW. The max monthly payment was $863; thus BMW picked up an extra (approx) $1700.
My final price was about $23,300. I wanted to finish payments in 24 months, but BMW financing forced me to get a 36 month loan term.
If someone is planning to buy one, the max BMW will pay is $1000 per month, so you could save $2000 if you buy a more expensive car.
Also, rightly or not, I purchased an extended free maintenance schedule to cover me for the full 6 yrs. The finance guy initially offered it at $3095, but apparently you can negotiate this by 'bidding' on the computer. The lowest offer was $2000, and I took it. Considering the brakes and minor work on my Acura cost $800, at 30,000 miles, I may recoup my investment.
Also, I test drove a 335i with the sport package, and while the engine was great, the ride is a bit punishing on anything but perfect roads. I just love the way my standard 328 rides and the engine is more than enough for me.
Hope this helps someone save some money.
Cheers.
I'll try again:-
BMW will pay the first two months of payment. Thus, if your monthly payment is, lets say, $200, then BMW will pay $200 X 2 = $400.
If your monthly payment is $850, then BMW will pay 850 X 2 = 1700. This is essentially money that you have saved.
The maximum BMW will pay is $1000 per month (according to the finance guy), ie you get could get a total saving of $2000 off if manage to make your monthly payment a thousand dollars.
Thus, try to maximize your monthly payments. To do this, I tried to get the loan term over 24 months, but BMW finance would only go with 36 months for me. I actually had to place 'zero down' to maximize the monthly payment. I felt very strange to drive the car out and not pay anything at that time.
I hope this helps.
2008-- 17k miles.....window @ 29,800...328 i
2007 - 26k mi ....................@ 28,000...328 i
both cars looked very good from outside appearance, would have to pull carfax report etc, but if any can tell me if this is in line with pricing of this yr model with mileage would be helpful. Have not bought used in long time. Thks a gain for clarification very interested in prog.
As for extended warranties, these are actually insurance policies, wherein the underwriter is betting your car won't break, and you are betting that it will. The size of the bet depends on what the underwriter charges---they stet the stakes for the betting game--although you can certainly negotiate ANY extended warranty price.
I certainly wouldn't buy any extended warranty that I didn't read cover to cover, with a magnifying glass, including all "exclusions" so that you fully understand what IS covered and what is NOT. Many extended warranties offer different levels of coverage.
As for pricing, you might try Edmunds TRUE MARKET VALUE feature, which will help you negotiate a price. Be sure to do the custom appraisal, where you can plug in miles, condition, options, etc.
I'm sure some of the owners here can give you more tips and advice!
VISITING HOST
You have to READ the warranty policy and see a) what it covers b) what it excludes and c) who is backing it d) where you are allowed to bring it e) is it "re-imbursement only" (you pay the repair, they pay you), etc etc.
If it's not written down, then you don't have it.
Pay your dues reading, or pay your dues later. :P