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I am sorry to hear that you have had repeated issues with your Cadillac Escalade. If you would like for us to look further into this for you, please let us know. We can be contacted by email at socialmedia@gm.com [Attn Amber].
Regards
Amber N.
GM Customer Care
What exactly does "look further into this for you" mean? If GM was actually concerned and wanted to look into this all they would have to do is read this forum of over 400 posts about pretty much the same issues and get a good idea of what's going on. This is only a small sample size on 1 website. There are many others as well.
The truth is they know exactly what's going on and it is unfortunately going to take auto fatalities before someone really gets their attention on it. So in the meantime, owners will have to figure out most of these issues on their own with the help of each other or buy another product before their vehicle strands them or worse.
It is really a disappointment to see such a lack of concern on these issues.
As GM Customer Care Advisors, our primary aim is to help individual customers get their vehicle concerns resolved. We are present on this forum, as well as others, and take note of threads where many owners seem to be experiencing similar concerns. If you are experiencing a specific issue, we are more than happy to document your complaint within our system and address any of your concerns to the best of our ability.
Regards
Amber N.
GM Customer Care
- radio turns off and back on again (about 3 seconds)
- abs light blinks during this time (about 3 seconds)
- traction control light comes on sometimes (about 3 seconds)
When those things happened I recorded the event on my iPhone ironically while going to the dealer to report this yet again. I showed the video to the service advisor. He said that they the tech still had to see the car do it! This was at Love Chevrolet in Columbia, SC.
- at times when switching the car off, the doors will not unlock unless you switch the car on again or manually unlock the doors.
- in late June 2013, one morning the battery was dead. Jumped the vehicle and took the battery to get it checked and it recharged fine after driving. No accessory was on at the time.
-one time (July 7, 2013) while driving at 70 mph on the interstate. The lights started going off with bells and the radio reset as usual, but this time the speedometer went to 0 mph for about 3 seconds.
- have taken the vehicle to dealer 3 times with problem. They have no clue.
As of today, July 10, 2013, the vehicle has been at dealer for two days and counting. The dealers says that the technician has to see the problem. So, they are driving my car every day, while I pay the note and fill the tank with $85 of gas! What a good deal for them!!
see the YouTube video for yourself:
2009 Chevy Tahoe Dashboard Disco (the lights and bells go off wildly!)"
The video is about 1 min. The disco is about at the end of the video.
http://youtu.be/ZUyjdLnDyq4
I'm sorry that you are having this problem with your vehicle at this time. I viewed your video, and can understand where your frustration is coming from. If you need any additional assistance with this matter please let us know. We can also be reached by email at socialmedia@gm.com.
Amber N.
GM Customer Care
I most certainly will update the post in this thread! Thanks.
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/n9320h/2009-12-08_010524_yuk.pdf
Rob
-Mark
Thanks for the heads up. They changed my battery cables today. We will see how it works. Thanks!
-Mark
Went back twice to the Chevy dealer in Melbourne Florida and they could not find any codes related to those issues. ( I wish I had seen this thread before). I believe that I know part the cause and the fix to this: The positive cable connection to the battery post is simply crimped in a metal connection of poor quality. After a while , some oxidation occurs between the copper ( I believe) cable and the metal of the post connection. The oxidation build up is enough to create the power failure. The cable appears to be firmly connected to the battery, so the mechanic doesn't think that there is anything wrong. This is also why in some occasions, just tugging or moving the cable will restore the connection sometimes for several months ,until the oxidation builds up again. Of course, replacing the cable will work, but it is less expensive to just buy an old style battery post connector where the cable is pinched with 2 bolts.
Turning to the internet and finding that I am one of what is probably thousands complaining of the same issue makes my extremely concerned that GM is not looking out for its current and future customers. I will be filing a complaint with the Attorney General's office with the state of NC immediately.
Not only have we dealt with this issue. We have long dealt with the oil consumption issue that GM continues to say is "normal" consumption. Extremely disappointed in GM and how they are handling MAJOR component issues. We also own a Jeep Wrangler and they are been absolutely amazing anytime we have an addressable issue.
ad it into dealership at least 10 times no solution. I did discover if I wiggled the ground cord behind the battery it would turn on the power and it would start. The dealership replaced it and a lot of other modules. I thought it was fixed but now I am seeing the same crap again. I just replaced the battery again. I think something must be draining it slowly as if I leave it for more than five days it is dead. I am mad my extend warranty is over and now I am stuck paying for a problem that should have been fixed. It seems from the look of this forum I am not the only one, Come on GM step up lets find the problem recall and fix it.
Look at my post from July 10, 2013. I have a video of the problem. GM said to replace the battery cables, as the stock cables are not rated large enough to carry the current load when you accelerate. Thus, causing the voltage to fluctuate. You may need to reprogram the body control modules as well. Sometimes their memory gets messed up as a result of the voltage problems. Hope that it helps. My 2009 has had no problems since the fix. "Knock on wood" Good luck to you.
Mark
2011 Tahoe LTZ 43k- Major frustration with a repeated DEAD BATTERY!! It happened about 8x over the past 3 months. Drive to store....go into the store..back out and its DEAD! Jump it and drive home and its fine for a while. No rhyme or reason!! It happened this sunday and again tuesday so i took it in to a local shop for a new battery. They tested the battery w car on and off 13.8v, starter and ignition checked out as well. I see that battery issues seem to be pretty common.....any real solution to this headache?? thx Brian
Are there Chevy reps on this sight?
Thanks for the post traveler2012 and everyone else here. Experienced the same thing with my 2008 GMC Sierra. Was traveling down the interstate and my power locks, radio, gauges went haywire for a few seconds and went away. Did this a few times over a two week period and didn't treat it seriously enough to take it in until it lasted several minutes on my way to work on day. I recently had the battery replaced with an Auto Zone battery so I took it back to the shop that did it for me. They were scratching their heads until I found this forum while I was waiting and shared it with them. The terminals on these batteries are smaller and caused a bad connection. Has only been a short time but haven't had any more issues.
Thanks again for everyone posting this and I maybe someone with a Sierra issue finds mine and it helps them.
I have a 2009 LTZ. I have not had any issues while driving. However, two times last month I went into the truck to start it, and everything appeared dead (except the battery was fine). I also had the rapid clicking of the doorlock solenoids. Several posts on here mentioned the same problem. Both times I was able to get everything working again by disconnecting the battery, waiting 15 minutes and reconnecting (resetting all electronics). My problem seemed to be initiated with the slamming of the passenger door or the power passenger running boards going up. After reading other posts on here, I inspected all battery cable connections...and they seemed fine. But I decided that I didn't like the Negative Battery Terminal connecter, as it is a 1.5" machine crimp. Even though no corrosion was visible on the outside, I cut it appart with my Dremel tool. The copper wire was greenish/black at the two pinch points (all of the way around), and the connecter metal was brownish/black rather than grey. It wasn't the worst corrosion I've ever seen, but it definitely looked like the root of my problem. I replaced the terminal connector with a $4 part from Autozone, and cleaned/sealed the connection. I have been fine for two weeks. I will respond again in a month or two to let you all know if it is still working. Thanks for all of your comments and advice. If this continues to work I'll be writing a letter to GM identifying the problem and how quickly/cheaply it could be recalled/corrected for people. If this doesn't fix it, I will commence war on GM.
For some reason I could not get into my old account, but here is the issue I've been having that was posted a while back...
"Mine is having the same issues while driving, door locks going up and down, gauges moving back and forth, lights flickering, sometimes the tahoe shutters, and this usually happens anywhere from 3-10 seconds. And when this does occur, when I get to my destination and shut off the car, then it always goes completely dead. Then I can hear a intermittent clicking noise coming from the door locks and under the dash, but nothing works at all. I always disconnect/reconnect my battery cables, and it always temporarily solves the problem. This may happen a couple of times a day or it may drive normal for a month or so. I bought the tahoe used in april 2012, and it did this off and on until around oct 2012. Then it ran perfect up for about 6 months, and now yesterday it did it again."
A few weeks ago I discovered that I don't actually have to disconnect the negative battery cable, but if I just grab the negative cable and pull on it, then all power comes back like nothing ever happened. The only thing that could be affected by pulling on the cable, is the cable itself or the Battery Current Sensor. The battery current sensor is located about 10-12 inches down the cable from the battery. I think that the sensor was giving incorrect current signals to the ECM. I inspected the battery cable, but could find no corrosion, nicks, cuts, or anything, but I went ahead and bought a new negative cable ($11) from NAPA. I also bought the Battery Current Sensor from the Chevy dealer, and surprisingly, it was only $22. So far, I haven't had anymore hiccups, but seeing as how my problem has been so random, we will see...
I have a 2009 Tahoe LTZ with 85,000 miles and put in a brand new battery December 2013. About a month ago, the truck was completely dead one morning other than a clicking electrical noise coming from the driver's door panel. I was able to jump start it and hadn't had any problems again until a few days ago. Now, several times over the last few days, various warning lights will come on in the dash (seatbelt, traction control, air bags), the radio will go dead and the headlights will flicker, and it loses power and steering for a few seconds. It seems to happen when I'm applying brakes or turning corners. I'm very worried about this happening at highway speeds and know I need to get it fixed! Has anyone figured out the problem yet? I'm not sure if I should take it to a GM dealer...it doesn't sound like the dealers are any help. I've read this entire forum and would appreciate hearing from those of you that have tried the various fixes and found any long term/permanent fix - battery cables, battery terminals, alternator, starter cable, OnStar, mega fuses, BCM, GMLAN system, VICM, clear codes and reset computers. Please help! I live in San Antonio, TX if anyone knows of a good electrical specialty shop here.
Sounds like your car's various computers are not getting proper voltages--which drives them crazy. I think you have a charging system problem (you can easily have alternator output tested) and of course, checking all battery cables (especially grounds to the battery and the PCM) is essential.
I have a 2010 Tahoe and having electrical problems. The voltage gauge on the dash drops to around 12-13 volts and all the circuits begin to go crazy, The door locks will lock and unlock and the dash gauges will flicker. I had the alt tested and the only thing that it showed was the CCA was a little low. Once the alt gauge got back over 14 it did not have any other problems. Anybody else had this type of issue?
Hopefully you're able to get some good advice here on the forum, jsegrove. Please let us know if you're interested in visiting your dealership for further assistance. We'd be happy to reach out to them to further discuss your concerns.
Amber N.
GM Customer Care
Replace the battery current sensor, $22 at the dealership. It's located on the negative battery cable.
Thanks for posting traveler2012. Our electrical problem started after replacing the battery with a auto zone battery. I will recheck batter connectors for tightness and engine block to firewall grounds. It also sounds like an auxiliary ground from battery neg. terminal to the frame is also a good idea. I'm surprised that GM hasn't jumped all over this and stated that the smaller terminals on aftermarket batteries should be checked. The number of women with children should have initiated an immediate blitz to the dealerships and other repair facilities. GM needs to be proactive about their reputation, especially with the Govt. bail out still fresh in peoples minds. Why lose a potential future auto sale for $30 to $60 in parts. After the frustration level is at a pure boil it is too late not o lose them to a foreign car maker. I know my misses is hot about this issue on her 08 tahoe. Women don't like being stranded and all the technical talk in the world won't erase the experience for them of the helpless stranded feeling. It was said at one time that what's good for GM is good for the country. I'd like to pose a modification for the GM Management to Tattoo on their brains... What is good for the consumer/customer is Good for GM in the long run. Looks like that would be a no brainier even for those with a Ivy League education. Don't continue to lose market share to other manufacturers over stupid failures in customer support. If you screw up... admit it, fix it, build good will think of future sales... I've worked in dealerships where service drove sales... win/ win for all
On Monday, September 29, the truck again encountered a problem, but this time I experienced two major malfunctions, within 15 minutes, while I drove home. It happened twice within 15 minutes. Both times I was approaching an intersection and went to accelerate through the intersection when the truck lost power to the engine, and the engine seemed to turn off.
I was forced to coast to the side street and avoid being hit by the cars behind me. Both times I couldn't get the truck to accelerate for about a minute. During that same minute the door locks on all doors were popping up and down and the indicator lights on the dash board briefly flashed on and then off.
I called my husband and he came and followed me home. On the way home the dash lights turned off and I could feel that there was a decrease in acceleration, but I was able to make it home.
Once home, called the Chevrolet Customer Service (1-800-222-1020). I told the agent on the phone what safety issues I had encountered. She called the dealership and got me a FREE diagnostic and 1 hr. labor to investigate the issue. I also looked up on the internet the car issues I just encountered and found the EXACT same issue with the 2008 Chevrolet Tahoe within this forum.
I took the information I found, printed it out, as well as emailed the information to the service manager at the Chevrolet dealership where I had the appointment scheduled.
I've pasted 2 links below to let you know where I got my information from.
http://www.autoserviceprofessional.com/article/92084/finding-gmlan-wiring-problems
http://forums.edmunds.com/discussion/5662/chevrolet/tahoe/chevrolet-tahoe-electrical-problems/p9
Well, I took my truck in for the scheduled appointment today. This is what the report said:
"Tech inspected & found C0900 stored. Tech followed published diagnostic & found the UBEC cable/175 AMP maxifuse has fretting issue. Tech replaced the fuse/cable & tested. Tech also found the neg battery cable have excessive voltage drop.
Tech found the UBEC cable/fuse has fretting problem & the negative cable has excessive voltage drop.
Tech states the negative battery cable has excessive voltage drop cause: customer satisfaction
Battery positive junction block cable replacement
Tech found the negative cable has a 256 MV drop. Tech replaced the negative battery cable & tested. Tech states the cable now operates to Manf Specs."
My husband picked up the truck this afternoon. The service technician said that the notes I emailed and turned in helped them narrow down the problem and pinpoint it without much delay. No fees or charges. I hope this information assists others and thank you to the others that posted their problems and solutions previously on this forum.
I am now mounting a camera inside to capture the moment, if it happens again.
One thing they said they did, was clean a ground. Not the main ground, but one to the dash. This makes sense because these cars are made of plastic and need more grounds then in the day. They acted like they did not think this was the problem though, said that ground looked OK before cleaning and tightening.
Now after having it in to the dealer for 3 times on this issue, and like other blogs they said it had to happen while they were test driving and said nothing seemed wrong.
I decided to call AAA and requested a hauler truck opposed to a tow truck. I did not want them to touch it. Hired a taxi for the wife. When AAA arrived, I made sure all he did was wench it aboard and rode with him to the dealer. When I arrived at dealer we unloaded it in a spot where they wanted it.
I then went into the service department and they said they would get to it in a couple days. I said I wanted to talk to the manager, and they obliged. After telling the manager of the history of this problem and with their dealership, my concern that my daughter is barrows this car with her 2 twin infants, etc., I wanted him to come out with a mechanic and see the problem first hand. I was concerned the vehicle would be jumped and then appear normal. Then like in the past times they could find nothing wrong.
The manager got a mechanic and we proceeded out to the Tahoe. I explained and showed them that there was no power any where. The mechanic lifted the hood and tapped on the 175 amp fuse/breaker located at the battery. The car immediately had electrical power and started up. The mechanic said that these fuses are subject to micro corrosion which causes them to fail. It would take about a 1/2 hour to replace and they had the part in stock. 45 minutes later they had it done.
I have now driven the Tahoe trouble free for a month, longer than any time before with no problem.
For curiosity, I went on line to see how much the self re-setting fuse would cost, if I was not under warrantee. GM wants $30 but Monster Parts and others is as low as $12. The breaker could be replaced easy by almost any body, no special tools, easy to get to.
If you have no warrantee or a deductible the going rate at my dealer Good Chevrolet at Renton Washington, to treble shoot is a minimum of $250 per session, by now I would be 1500+ into trying to solve this problem.
GM needs to look into this, There may not be as many incidents for a recall, but the problem is as dangerous as their ignition switch recall. Loss of power while pulling out or across traffic can be the same: loss of power, air bags?, power steering and brakes = catastrophe. For a $30 retail part and 15 minutes in labor plus 15 minutes of paper work.
If the problem appears again I will let you know. Sometimes fuses point to bigger problems.
Good luck