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Isuzu Axiom Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • bertbcfmbertbcfm Member Posts: 71
    The only service was the pressure modulator seal and that was repaired at no cost. It was sort of a Isuzu transmission recall. I've only had the trans oil changed twice (stock fluid) at about 40K and 70K so this failure came out of nowhere. The Axiom is the TOD 4 wheel full time drive. After changing the shocks and tires I've finally enjoyed driving the car and it has always be really good in the snow, mud and ice. If it makes it to 150K I'm thinking of removing the body from the drivers door back, putting on a small flat bed, putting on small tractor tires and using it as a tractor. Did this with the old square Trooper years ago for a friend and it's the best tractor he has ever had.

    Regards
    Bert
  • cptsessocptsesso Member Posts: 116
    Looking for a new (used) lug nut wrench, just broke mine today trying to remove a super torqued on nut. Hate overzealous mechanics with air wratchets. Anyway if someone has one or knows where to get one I would appreciate it.
  • bertbcfmbertbcfm Member Posts: 71
    I carry a deep well socket and a breaker bar (1/2" drive). It works so much better and you can get an inexpensive one at Harbor Freight or used on Ebay. Wrap it in a couple of rags and it will stow in with the jack.

    Regards
    Bert
  • jedmustangjedmustang Member Posts: 12
    I use one of the combo wrenches. four sockets on a cross bar shaped like an X, that you can get at most any auto supply store. One of the sockets is just right for the axiom wheel bolts, and you can apply plenty of torque using both hands on the ends of the cross bar. Works great for normal circumstances.
  • cptsessocptsesso Member Posts: 116
    Ya, I have one of those, but too big to carry all of the time. I think I will just go with the 3/4 socket and breaker bar as they will still fit under the seat.

    My big reason for wanting a replacement wrench is it's use as the crank for the jack. Even though the head is broken, it will still work in that capacity.

    Thanks.
  • myaxiommyaxiom Member Posts: 1
    some body know how to remove the front brake disc of an axiom
  • walk_the_walk2walk_the_walk2 Member Posts: 140
    MyAxiom:

    I have done this job on my own 02 Axiom and it was not hard. Two bolts for the rotor; 2 for the caliper/pad assembly. And, you WILL need air tools to do this job, as these bolts don't come loose easily. Other than that, it is no harder than any FORD or GM rotor replacement or pad replacement.

    Here is an excerpt from the 02 Service manual that will guide you thru it. You might want to search for the 03 Service Manual online. It is pretty inexpensive and is in PDF format. You pay them for the manual and download it. I have used mine again and again and it pays for itself.

    Pls. download this PDF file in the next day or two. The steps for the 03 should be identical to the 02. File is located here:

    http://www.vivagen.net/Docs/2002_Isuzu_Axiom_Service_Manual_pg717.pdf

    Hope this helps you.
  • dautlasdautlas Member Posts: 11
    2004 Isuzu Axiom engine immobilizer transponder key system. I would like to disconnect this system so I can easily install a remote start system. Does anyone know of any electrical diagrams for the Axiom? Also I would like to install a switch that would bypass the TOD system and keep the front axle engaged. Thanks !
  • bertbcfmbertbcfm Member Posts: 71
    Can't help with the Key system but why would you want to disable the TOD and just go for front wheel drive? One of the few advantages of this vehicle is the TOD.

    You might as well take the drive shaft out.

    Regards
    Bert
  • axiom01axiom01 Member Posts: 2
    04 Isuzu axiom, my check engine light keeps coming on (Check engine light reads bad O2 sensors bank 2 . There is also a rich odor coming from my exhaust). I changed 4 O2 sensors and sparks plugs, check engine light turned off but came back on shortly after...same problem reads on the computer. If anybody has any info or can lead me the right way please let me know. Dealership has informed me that it may be the air mass flow sensor.
    :mad:
  • dautlasdautlas Member Posts: 11
    No, I don't want the front axle engaged only. What I don't want is to wait for the rear axle to slip before the front axle kicks in. The TOD system has caused me to get stuck because of the delay and the fact that if the rear axle is slipping when the front axle kicks in the front wheels will kick in at the same speed as the rear sometimes causing them to spin also. Thanks for the help!

    Regards
    Dautlas
  • walk_the_walk2walk_the_walk2 Member Posts: 140
    Dautlas: I have the full Service Manual for my 02 Axiom and there is an entire lengthy chapter on the TOD system. The manual has lots of connection diagrams, pin numbers, voltages, and so on.

    It's quite a complicated system with lots of sensors and devices and connections and two computer modules controlling it. By the way, you can buy a similar manual yourself online for your 2004 Axiom in PDF format as I did for less than $20.

    Just looking over the chapter on TOD, I see that there is lots of room for potential problems in your TOD system - some of which might even be covered by the Powertrain Warranty. For example, if your front speed sensor was bad, it might cause the lag you are referring to.

    There are also diagnostic codes that you can access via an OBD2 connector that will tell you if your TOD system is functioning properly in the first place, or possibly posting errors.

    I love to tinker with stuff myself, but at first glance, this system looks pretty complicated, even to an engineer type like me.

    So, my suggestion, is to find a qualified dealer who can take a look at your system for you and find out if there's a problem. Barring that, if you are going to experiment, you need the full service manual and 2 days to pour over how this works and even that might not really be the right solution.

    I do understand your problem and your frustration though.
    Hope this helps.
    .
  • walk_the_walk2walk_the_walk2 Member Posts: 140
    Is this the problem you are describing? If found this as a potential trouble in the manual (along with several others, some of which are tied to TOD trouble codes and some of which are not):

    "The rear wheels spin in the TOD mode, so the driving torque is not transmitted to the
    front wheels. The indicator lamps will not show the 4L and TOD status."

    Please advise and provide any EXTRA details, such as specifics on lamps lit or trouble codes if you have them.

    Or just get the manual and check out the TOD chapter. It's ALL in there and if you have a digital voltmeter and an Isuzu Tech 2 reader, and some auto repair skills you can pinpoint the problem without the dealer.
  • bertbcfmbertbcfm Member Posts: 71
    You're getting good advice from Walkthewalk. Your description of the TOD performance isn't any where near what's supposed to happen when there is a lost traction incident. As I understand it all wheels are pulling under normal circumstances, maybe at different front/rear ratios. When one wheel looses traction the TOD delivers more torque to the other wheel that isn't slipping. It's pretty seamless in my experience. I use my 2002 Axiom like a tractor on wet grass and in muddy conditions and I can feel it powering the non-slipping wheel. It doesn't switch from rear to front axles. The drive train warranty is very good, as I had my transmission replaced at 110,000 miles at no cost. I would think the TOD would be covered also. I lost a Hall Effect Sensor on the TOD system (a small magnetic switch that senses rotation) and it really screwed up the TOD but was an easy fix. So I'd call the dealer and see if all these problems aren't under warranty.

    Regards
    Bert
  • dautlasdautlas Member Posts: 11
    First off thanks for all of your advice! My TOD system has a definite kick when the front axle pulls in, and there is a slight delay. I have had the dealer take a look at the problem to no avail. No code is being generated at this time. The TOD lights on the dash function correctly as informed by the technician so maybe it is my idea of how the system works is the problem. My last Isuzu was a Trooper that did not have a TOD system, it worked great, when you engaged the front axle it stayed engaged until you disengaged the system. Both axles pulling at all times, no delay for kick-in, no waiting for the rear to slip before engagement. Maybe I expect too much from this TOD system. Thanks again !! Dautlas
  • dautlasdautlas Member Posts: 11
    First off thanks for all of your advice! My TOD system has a definite kick when the front axle pulls in, and there is a slight delay. I have had the dealer take a look at the problem to no avail. No code is being generated at this time. The TOD lights on the dash function correctly as informed by the technician so maybe it is my idea of how the system works is the problem. My last Isuzu was a Trooper that did not have a TOD system, it worked great, when you engaged the front axle it stayed engaged until you disengaged the system. Both axles pulling at all times, no delay for kick-in, no waiting for the rear to slip before engagement. Maybe I expect too much from this TOD system. Thanks again !! Dautlas
  • bertbcfmbertbcfm Member Posts: 71
    I'd check all of the rotational sensors. Think there is one on each wheel and maybe two on the shafts to the front and rear cases. Another possible issue might be the gear like castings that trigger the rotational sensors on each wheel. As each tooth passes the sensor it triggers a pulse and gives feed back to the TOD computer regarding weather that wheel is slipping or not. I broke one and it did some weird stiff to the TOD. I think it sensed that one wheel wasn't always turning. Found the piece and brazed it back together and all was right.

    But this whole thing of the rear wheels switching to the front is weird. The TOD will switch torque on the same "axle" but shouldn't switch rear to front.

    Call the Isuzu service department a Zimbrick in Madison, Wisconsin. And describe the problem to the service manager. He won't know where you are calling from and he should be able to tell you if this is covered under the warranty and may have an idea as to what the solution is. It's only a short long distance call and you may get a helpful answer.

    Good luck
    Bert
  • as_i_see_itas_i_see_it Member Posts: 4
    Why did I get suckered into buying this crap ?
    They have good stats on HP & Torque but some "experts" at certain consumer sites completely missed out on what a LEMON this brand is. You have to be BRAIN DEAD to buy anything made by ISUZU. Sorry but this is coming from am OWNER and RESEARCHER who knows that ISUZU is company that is better off dead.
  • walk_the_walk2walk_the_walk2 Member Posts: 140
    I understand your frustration and anger about the Isuzu brand. Not sure what is driving your posting, but I am sure you've experienced problems... and it can't be good that there are fewer dealers supporting Isuzus around the country. It was outrageous that Isuzu pulled out of the US market, when the real problem was that they had zero marketing.

    And many have reported problems that should never have happened in the first place, while Isuzu as a manufacturer has stood by and done nothing. I am talking about brake problems, frame rusting problems and transmission problems - these seem to be the big 3 problems that are costly and that many experience.

    I've had brake problems galore and documented the fixes here... but have been lucky on the tranny side and have seen no problem with frame rusting (knock on wood). And, I know folks with other Isuzu models (Troopers for example) that have owned them for over a decade and have over 200k miles on them. My Axiom has just crossed 100K mark.

    So, I started looking for a replacement vehicle that had similar stats (interior space, features, mileage, etc.) and I had a hard time finding one. The top 3 contenders were the Honda Pilot (which was rumored to be made by Isuzu - I am not sure if this is true), the Dodge Nitro (which has had lots of odd problems, including tranny issues, and has lower mileage), and the Toyota Highlander (which is probably part of the most recent recall for gas pedal issues?). My friend swears by his Saturn Vue, but GM doesn't make them anymore, and I would never buy a GM anyway, due to quality issues. I went to the Nissan dealership, but the mileage figures and the sticker prices scared me away.

    What I am saying is that the Isuzu Axiom, when serviced well and working properly, is a good solid SUV that should get 17-18 MPG in the city on 10% ethanol gasoline. But, if your experience is different, you probably will disagree with this statement.

    Since I have had a hard time finding a good replacement for the Axiom that I like, I have learned to appreciate my Axiom more. It's probably not worth much anymore, and if the tranny goes out, I'll be singing the blues for sure, but it's paid for and I intend to drive it until it becomes nearly worthless... or until the recession is over, because I don't have a spare $30K to spend...
  • justme34justme34 Member Posts: 1
    Do you know what would cause the Battery light, brake light and ABS light all t come on and offf at thesame time basically
  • walk_the_walk2walk_the_walk2 Member Posts: 140
    Sorry - I did not see your question until today. Maybe this will help"

    "Warning Light Operation
    When the ignition switch is in the START position, the
    “BRAKE” warning light should turn on and go off when the
    ignition switch returns to the ON position.
    The following conditions will activate the “BRAKE” light:
    1. Parking brake applied. The light should be on
    whenever the parking brake is applied and the ignition
    switch is on.
    2. Low fluid level. A low fluid level in the master cylinder
    will turn the “BRAKE” light on.
    3. During engine cranking the “BRAKE” light should
    remain on. This notifies the driver that the warning
    circuit is operating properly."

    Also, I found this: "Also,
    check the brake warning light. If a
    failed system is found, the light
    should indicate failure."

    Sounds like a major brake problem or brake/ABS problem. I would take it to the dealer and find out what's up. You need a functioning brake system - it's a life safety issue. Post back what you find out.
  • walk_the_walk2walk_the_walk2 Member Posts: 140
    A friend was looking under the hood of my 02 Axiom while the wipers were running and he said he thought the wiper motor was loose. It is attached to a bronze metal plate that bolts with 4 bolts to the firewall. He said it was loose, because the washer motor moves back and forth a bit as the wipers operate, which is what he thought was the problem.

    To be clear, the motor moves back and forth about 1/4 inch as it operates, in a direction towards and then away from its mounting plate (and the firewall). Not sure if this is proper operation for the wiper motor or not. That is, my motor may be coming loose from the mounting plate, OR this may be NORMAL for it to wiggle back and forth as it works the wipers.

    Would anyone be willing to pop the hood on their Axiom, turn on the wipers and report back if their wiper motor flexes back and forth, or if it just sits still, WITH the wipers in either low or high position?

    Please... this would be a BIG help to me, as the service manual is not clear on either HOW this is supposed to operate, or what happens when the 4 bolts are removed... so I would prefer to leave it alone.... (i.e. "don't fix it if it ain't broke").

    Please check yours ">and post back here....

    THANKS!
  • jedmustangjedmustang Member Posts: 12
    Hello -- My wiper motor moves back an forth in and out from the firewall, a little bit, the same as you describe. Weird.
  • walk_the_walk2walk_the_walk2 Member Posts: 140
    Thanks for checking. It must be an intended part of the design then. I suspected that when I saw the rubber grommets. Good thing I didn't try to fix what isn't broke.
  • jurejure Member Posts: 2
    Does any body knows where is the power steering fluid deposit??? :sick:
  • howardruhowardru Member Posts: 155
    The NHSTA is investigating the rusting frame problem and they are aware that this problem involves the Axiom model and Honda Passport models made by Isuzu.
    Check out this facebok page

    http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=187031801231&ref=ts
  • tom232003tom232003 Member Posts: 5
    Do I need to have full coverage on my Isuzu ?
  • cinaxiomcinaxiom Member Posts: 1
    hello
    i was wondering if anyone can provide a picture of where bank 1 sensor 1,bank 1 sensor 2,bank 2 sensor 1,bank 2 sensor 2 are located in a Isuzu axiom 2002???
    i would really appreciate the help
  • walk_the_walk2walk_the_walk2 Member Posts: 140
    Here it is, straight from the US Service Manual for the 02 Axiom. By the way, you can buy this entire 2100 pg Service manual online as a downloadable PDF file for around $20 USD. It is worth every penny.

    There are 4 O2 sensors in the 02 Axiom. I think they are made by Bosch and are pretty inexpensive (~ $70). Changing them out is actually easier than changing a spark plug.

    The trouble code will tell you WHICH ONE has gone bad, and then you just buy one and replace it. You can go to Autozone or Advanced Auto Parts here in the US and they will loan you their scan device to pinpoint which one is bad. Then replace it, unplug the battery for 30 minutes to reset the code and you should clear the code and be ready to go (at least this is what I remember from changing mine back around 50K miles.) Anyway, it is really easy to do.

    This diagram shows all 4 sensors, although only two of them are labeled in the picture. Hope this helps:

    http://www.vivagen.net/pdf_docs/2002_Isuzu_Axiom_Service_Manual_pg1563.pdf
  • walk_the_walk2walk_the_walk2 Member Posts: 140
    SPOKE TOO SOON. Over the July 4th weekend, and while traveling in my Axiom on vacation, the wipers stopped working properly - the wiper blades starting swinging too low and smacking on the bottom of the windshield. They then stopped altogether as we were leaving Panama City. The windshield wiper motor baseplate is cracked next to one of the 4 securing bolts. The whole thing has to be replaced now!

    Worse, the motor assembly, which I reported earlier had a big wobble to it, broke a HOLE IN MY FIREWALL, as one of the 4 securing bolts worked a hole in the firewall from the wobble.

    We thought we were stuck in Panama City, since it was raining that day. The guys at Firestone clued me in to the fact that I can just buy a bottle of RAINX and use two coats of it and no wipers - which worked great! Meanwhile, the motor assembly is a $200 special order part, and I have waited 10 days to get it from my dealer. It should arrive tomorrow (finally). Will have to take the car to a body shop, as they will need to spot weld to reinforce the firewall! Incredible.

    BEWARE OF WOBBLY WINDSHIELD WIPER MOTORS. If yours exhibits this symptom, have someone check it out. This is gonna probably cost me $400 by the time it's all done.
  • walk_the_walk2walk_the_walk2 Member Posts: 140
    edited July 2010
    My sorry-[non-permissible content removed] local used-to-be-an-Isuzu-dealer-but-now-only-sells-Mazdas-and-disavows-anything-Isuzu- -related took 10 days to get me a new wiper motor assembly. And, this at $183 plus shipping. When I asked why they said they are having problems getting Isuzu parts now. Sounded like an excuse for their incompetence, which is easily provable.

    I did some research to find out that there is an Isuzu parts dealer in South Florida that says they can get parts easily. I have not used them, but they do ship to other states, so you might want to make a note of these guys. Also, if you know another dealer in your state that has ready access to parts for Isuzus, and you can vouch for them, please post that here, too.

    Here is the source I found (do your own due diligence):

    Isuzu Parts
    1881 N State Road 7
    Hollywood, FL 33021

    305-757-0234
  • walk_the_walk2walk_the_walk2 Member Posts: 140
    It's debt free and gets better mileage than a 2011 Honda Pilot, so I am trying my best to keep my old Axiom running as long as I can. I have yet to find a suitable replacement, that gets better mileage and has the same room and features. What about you?
  • walk_the_walk2walk_the_walk2 Member Posts: 140
    Went to the body shop. He did not want to do the motor replacement, but agreed to help with the spot welding of the firewall. In his opinion, the wiper motor wobble caused the failure of the base plate, which is cracked at both the top and bottom (although hard to notice at first. He suspects that the Isuzu wiper motors are working loose from the base plate. Looking at the new one which arrived today, there are 3 brass screws holding the wiper motor to the baseplate, that cannot be seen or accessed without removing the wiper motor.

    THE REASON I AM STATING ALL THIS IS THAT WIPER MOTOR WOBBLE, if detected when the wipers are working and the hood is up, is what appears to have caused the premature failure of my wiper motor assembly and the damage to the firewall when the bracket broke. YOURS COULD BE NEXT, so you might want to check it.

    Last, but not least, it turned out that the replacement wiper motor assembly is a GM part. Ironically. In fact, it's the same one used on the 2002 Honda Passport and Isuzu Rodeos. So, I could have bought it online for about HALF the price I paid at the local dealer, if I had just had the right part number. The part number is: 8-97365-748-0, in case anyone needs a new wiper motor assembly.

    See it here: http://www.hondapartsnow.com/electrical_exhaust_heater_fuel/b__0310~1998~honda~p- assport~4dr_4ex-l~4at~ka~windshield~wiper~washer.html

    And, in conclusion, we may be able to get a lot of our parts at the local Honda dealer if there is a matching Passport part. Go figure. Could have saved like $84.

    May post photos later of the broken wiper motor plate, in case anyone is interested.
  • walk_the_walk2walk_the_walk2 Member Posts: 140
    The job is done finally!! Thanks to GT Motorcars Body Shop in Gainesville, FL for helping me get this fixed at last. There was a half-dollar sized hole in the firewall when the wiper motor went haywire on us and it was NOT an easy repair. They had to weld in new metal and a zerts nut fitting to replace the one that broke out of there, then prime it.

    The body shop supervisor encouraged me to remove the wiper motor assembly myself, as well as the cowl and wipers and bring it to him dissembled, and he would do the welding job, but they actually reinstalled the wiper motor, too, which I was delighted to see.

    Finally, I have wipers again!

    If you have a really wobbly wiper motor, you might want to have a mechanic check it before it fails. Or you can unplug it, loosen the 4 bolts and pull it away from the firewall about 1 inch (which you can do without detaching it from the main wiper arm behind the firewall, as there is some play or flex there) and check the underlying bracket for cracks (failure). Mine was cracked to the point it fell apart after it was removed. Complete bracket failure at 105K miles. Could it be because it's a GM-Isuzu"> wiper motor?
  • bertbcfmbertbcfm Member Posts: 71
    Well great, another potential problem with my poor Axiom.

    No really thanks for sharing this as I'm going out to check my wiper motor condition. I'd probably be in the same boat and let it go until catastrophic failure.

    Let's see now.........

    Replaced Shocks - no more adjustable shocks - Rides Better
    New Transmission - Under Warranty - Yeah!
    New Fuel Pump and Gas Gauge Sending Unit also Under Warranty - Yeah
    113,000 miles and starting to burn oil at about 1 qt. per 900 miles, oh well..........
    Rear washer tube/pump shot
    Rear wiper arm fell off - Know where I can get another one? Breakers don't have them.
    New Calipers and brake pads Still crappy breaks.
    Put electric brakes on my welding trailer and brake controller on the dash and when towing the trailer the car actually stops better than it ever did. That's sad isn't it.
    Wondering what's next.........................

    Best Regards
    Bert
  • mdimdi Member Posts: 4
    Hi, I recently replaced my rear shocks but still see no differences and still hits the bottom on all most every small bump. Then, I decided to change the coil springs but no one have them. What kind of airlift kit did u use to support your springs? Please help me. Thanks.
  • walk_the_walk2walk_the_walk2 Member Posts: 140
    Can you tell me which year Axiom you have? Also what brand and model of rear shocks you installed? As a quick answer to your question, when I replaced my shocks I did not add any kind of air lift kit. I merely installed Monroe Sensatrak SUV/Truck shocks. Somewhere in this forum you can find the posting with the exact part number for the shocks I bought. I am not having the problem you are reporting on my 02 Axiom, with 106K miles on it now.

    Looking at the full Service manual, there are two coil springs on each side, topped with a round rubber insulator. So, you could order new OEM springs from those companies that sell Isuzu parts (see other related postings on that). If you opt to do that, be sure to order the rubber insulator "cap" - referred to in the diagram literally as a "rubber plate", as it would be inexpensive.

    In fact in the workshop manual, in the troubleshooting chart for the suspension, for the symptom "suspension bottoms", the service manual lists these 3 potential fixes:
    "Vehicle overloaded. Reduce load.
    Faulty shock absorber. Replace shock absorber.
    Incorrect, broken or sagging springs. Replace springs."

    So, if you wanted to add an air lift kit, you could, of course, but the problem could be old or worn out springs, which are almost as cheap to buy as the air lift kit (although probably more difficult to install).

    Finally, if you want to buy an air lift kit, they are available for the Axiom. Just Google "Isuzu Axiom Coil Springs". I found three different websites that sell air lift kits for Axioms with that search phrase. There may also be companies that sell add-on stiffeners.

    Hope that helps.
  • bertbcfmbertbcfm Member Posts: 71
    Great answer Walk the Walk2.

    Regards
    Bert
  • walk_the_walk2walk_the_walk2 Member Posts: 140
    Just finished installing a new seat belt assembly on my Isuzu Axiom. Couldn't get anyone locally to bother with this repair for some reason(a local body shop told me it was really hard to do), so I bought a new one seat belt assembly online for about $110 and my wife and I did it! Got it from Scarff Isuzu in Washington state.

    And, the irony is that it wasn't that hard to do either. Only took about one hour to do, too. Time to celebrate!

    By the way, I now DISRECOMMEND that place in Hollywood, FL for parts. Those guys are a ripoff. They quoted me $147 for a seat belt assembly without shipping. The list price is $127, and it was about $102 at Scarff Isuzu. With shipping about $115 delivered.

    Anyway, I am thinking I could have just lubbed the original one. The seat belt assembly appears to have merely gotten gunked up with dirt, dog hair and the like. I thought the retractor spring was bad, but now I think that the Service Manual is wrong and you can clean/lube the original OEM belt retractor and get it back like new.

    The instructions that came with the new one were unreadable, so fortunately, it is will documented and illustrated in the Service manual. If you opt to try to do this let me know.

    Also, I will be cleaning, lubing and retesting my original seat belt assembly next week, and posting it on Ebay... it seems to work fine now that I spent all that money. Hope this benefits others, with sluggish seat belts that don't retract, as it is not a hard job to work on one.
  • mdimdi Member Posts: 4
    Monroe senstrac. 02 model.shipping 20. .
  • bertbcfmbertbcfm Member Posts: 71
    I'm not to sure what the previous post is but...............

    The numbers for the Montoe shocks are:

    Monroe Sensamatic

    37159 Front
    37160 Rear

    Bert
  • bertbcfmbertbcfm Member Posts: 71
    I meant to write:

    SENSA-TRAC® TRUCK SHOCK ABSORBERS

    37159
    37160

    Regards
    Bert
  • mdimdi Member Posts: 4
    I have 37160.
  • walk_the_walk2walk_the_walk2 Member Posts: 140
    Bert is correct. My posting on it is posting #125, but the P/Ns are those Bert detailed. As I recall from my conversation with Monroe Tech Support, one set is a bit longer (has a longer rod) than the other (the rear ones are longer, I believe).

    Here is the posting I made a while ago:

    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f0e3b5f/124#MSG124
  • tomagtomag Member Posts: 3
    I have an 02 Axiom 2 WD. I had an independent garage perform routine maintenance but they could not figure out how to reset the service mileage on the display screen back to zero. Mechanic told me I would most likely need to have a "dealer" do it. Does anyone know I can do this? Thanks
  • bertbcfmbertbcfm Member Posts: 71
    No, you don't need a dealer to do the reset.

    I'll have to go out and do mine to remember the steps. But it's simple. I think you just push and hold the service button then step through the mileage you want for a service interval.

    I'll try later today.

    Regards
    Bert
  • cptsessocptsesso Member Posts: 116
    edited August 2010
    Had the shocks done today and I'm glad I did not attempt it myself. What a p.i.t.a.

    The poor guy at Pep Boys ended up cutting off all 4. The tops of the rear 2 and the bottom bolts of the front 2. The rears just because they were ridiculous to get at and work and on the front the lower bolts were rusted solid to the sleeves which pass through the shock itself.

    Felt bad for the guy so I gave him a nice tip. Anyway cost me $237.00 including a 50% off labor coupon. Not a bad deal for how much of a project it was.

    Axiom rides like a normal on frame suv now. Not as soft as the "Normal" mode and not as harsh as the "Sport" mode.

    Went with the Monroe Sensatrac's as suggested.
  • bertbcfmbertbcfm Member Posts: 71
    Yeah, just what I ran into.......but no lift to make it easier.

    I still appreciate the better ride though.

    Regards
    Bert
  • dautlasdautlas Member Posts: 11
    I hope that someone can help me here as my isuzu dealership cannot. My ignition immobilizer sometimes reads my key and sometimes it does not. I want to remove this immobilizer before I get stranded away from home. I own a 2004 Axiom with lots of miles. The dealership suggest that the immobilizer brain should be replaced. This is a large expense for what I call an old car. I just as soon have this system turned off or removed before I spend over a thousand dollars to replace the brain. Does anyone know how to shut this system down or remove it altogether. I know that this was an option and that not all axioms had this system installed. I want it gone, can anyone help, please. Thanks,
  • walk_the_walk2walk_the_walk2 Member Posts: 140
    Hi Dautlas:

    Sorry to hear about your problem with your 04 Axiom. Based on your description, it sounds like what you are actually talking about is the Anti-theft and Keyless Entry Controller Unit, which as you mention is not a standard item, but an optional accessory. In the Axiom Workshop Manual I bought on Ebay, it is detailed in Chapter 8H-14 on page 1964 of 2100, where it is shown as a small CPU unit, about the size of a small hard drive for a PC, that is located behind the glove box.

    Based on a first read of this info, it would appear to be an easy changeout, but I have not studied the details of it. For instance, how you get the new unit calibrated to recognize your key.

    Looking at the wiring diagram, it appears that this unit is heavily integrated into the entire starting system, so you would have to replace it, IF YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT THE SAME PCU.

    So, one option for you would be to spend the $15 to get an electronic copy of the service (workshop) manual and take a look at this info. If you are a good mechanic and good with electronics and repair, you should be able to do this job yourself, with the caveats already mentioned considered. I suppose you could get a used Keyless Entry Controller from a salvage yard, or you can get discount Isuzu parts from the Scarff Isuzu n Washington state, whose website is isuzuparts.com.

    It does not look any harder than replacing the CD changer or installing a satellite radio system. You remove the glove box from the dash, then the unit itself is located behind the glove box, attached with 2 screws and 2 connectors. You remove the old unit, then follow the two pages of instructions to "prepare" or sync the new unit to your key, then install it. Can't see anything difficult about this, and it appears that once again, the dealer is trying to gouge a customer for the repair.

    Check with Scarff on the cost of a new unit tomorrow. In the meantime, get the 2004 Workshop Manual - you will need it for the two pages of calibration instructions alone.
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