Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Mitsubishi Outlander Maintenance and Repair

1234568

Comments

  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Lots of green here too (and green is good):

    Reliability Rating for 2011 Mitsubishi Outlander SUV by Identifix
  • jonoxjonox Member Posts: 100
    I have a 2010 2.4L ES all wheel drive, 11,000 miles with no problems.

    Keep in mind that Mitsubishi have a dual severity maintenance schedule and expect that their frequency recommendations will be followed in order to protect the 10year/100k mile powertrain warranty.

    Because the Mitsubishi 4B1 aluminum engine with MIVEC continuously variable valve timing need a guaranteed clean oil supply the severe schedule (which applies to all Canadian users) calls for oil and filter change every 3750 miles or 3months, whichever occurs first. Also the motor should be warmed up at every start.

    The 2.4L has adequate power and the FWD/AWD/AWDLock control is a great feature for all weather driving conditions.

    Some have criticized the use of a CVT drive but I have found it to be a seemless transmission unit which actually enhances acceleration.

    Hope this helps.
  • fastgstfastgst Member Posts: 46
    Do you know the specs of the non-severe schdule for 2.4L?

    I do not neglict my cars but sometimes I only get to drive a car 5000 miles a year and I do not want to dump out the oil at 3 month or 1250 miles.
    I have NEVER followed the duration recommendation and I use synthetic oil, and the car is garaged not exposed to moisture or large temperature changes.

    Also does anyone know:

    2.4L model has a 2WD/4WD/Lock knob
    and the
    V6 has the S-AWC with tarmac/snow/lock knob.

    Does that mean the 2.4L model will be running true 2WD in that first setting and basically should have gas mileage like the FWD model except it is carrying 160lbs of extra weight?

    when I use the 4WD mode does that mean it will be more like a subaru full time AWD?

    The S-AWC system knob seems to imply AWD all the time.
  • jonoxjonox Member Posts: 100
    The "Regular" Schedule is double the "Severe" so oil and filter change is every 6 months or 7,500 miles. After 2011 I believe Mitsu have changed to synthetic oil so these intervals may have increased somewhat.

    "Severe" applies if the vehicle is frequently driven in one or more of the following road conditions:
    50% of driving in heavy city traffic in hot weather above 90 degrees F,
    Extensive idling and/or low speed operation (stop and go traffic),
    Repeated short trips with engine not fully warmed up, especially in freezing temps,
    Sandy, dusty, rough, muddy or salt spread roads,
    Vehicle is used for towing, police, taxi or commercial operation,
    Driving in day or night temperatures below freezing.

    The "Severe" frequency bothered me at first but having read the horror stories with the 2.4L Equinox which has a similar GM "knock off" engine I'm happy to comply. Also you may be able to negotiate free oil changes as part of the deal.

    Concerning the 2WD/4WD controls, the driver can change the drive mode at any time. The 2WD setting drives the front wheels only and is more efficient on gas. The 4WD Auto setting transfers up to 40% torque to the rear wheels under full throttle reducing to 25% over 40 MPH and 15% when cruising. For driving in more challenging conditions 4WD Lock mode can be selected with up to 60% of available torque being sent to the rear wheels, useful for fast starts and better control on snow or loose surfaces.
  • fushigifushigi Member Posts: 1,459
    I have a 2010 GT with AWC & the V6, sun & sound, navi, & towing package. I live in the Chicago area and follow the regular service schedule (6 months/7500 mile for oil changes, etc.). I don't drive that many miles, though, so my oil changes have been time-based so far. With 30 months of ownership I'm almost at 24K miles.

    Last week I did the 2 year/30K service (at 2.5 years/23K miles). One warranty item did surface during the work: the AC compressor was leaking & was replaced free of charge. I hadn't noticed as it was still keepign up with the 90 degree tempts we've been seeing. When they first came out, some 2010 Outlanders had weak/bad AC and it was traced to a bad batch from Mitsu's supplier. There are posts in the 2010 Outlander thread about this if you care to read them. Mine might have been a part of that but it just took longer to surface. Or it just started leaking. Doesn't much matter; it was fixed at no cost to me.

    That's been the only repair I've had to make and I don't really count it since it was covered by warranty and was free.

    Reliability was a factor in my original purchase. My last car was a '99 Galant LS V6 which had only a couple of repairs in my 10.5 years/152K miles of ownership. In my experience, Mitsu reliability is up there with the best. But then I do take care of my cars. I don't neglect maintenance and I don't leadfoot it from every stoplight (though I will once in a while).

    Lifetime fuel economy with the V6 & AWC has been 21.2MPG using the recommended premium fuel. Premium costs more and you can use regular if you want, but while I didn't notice a power difference the fuel economy does drop by around 0.5 MPG. In the end using premium doesn't cost more per mile so I use it. And that MPG is through a couple of Chicagoland winters, summers with high AC usage, and includes the occasional hauling of 800+ pounds of stuff from the home improvement stores.

    The AWC default, IIRC, to 90% front/10% rear in Tarmac road but can shift power to the rear as needed. Snow changes that bias to start at 70%30%. As noted you can change modes at any time or speed. For fast starts I use snow mode to avoid tripping the TCS; once moving at 40+ I'll revert to Tarmac. Once, with 5 passengers + luggage it stayed in 3rd all the way up to 85MPH going uphill on an onramp; it has plenty of power.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • jonoxjonox Member Posts: 100
    Thanks for the heads up on the AC compressor, my 2 year service is due at the end of June so I'll have it checked out.

    Because Mitsu Canada were adamant on the "Severe" schedule for Canadian drivers this will be my eighth oil and filter change, an average of about 1500 miles per fill however, with free O&F changes for life this is an easy decision. As mentioned in my previous post, GM have no end of problems with their similar 2.4L motor so better safe than sorry when it comes to oil condition.
  • fastgstfastgst Member Posts: 46
    edited June 2012
    So this is 2.4L a Japanese design but shared with GM? I was thinking it would be a durable engine that last at least 200k miles.
    But I havn't heard of anyone with problem with the outlander engines!

    Is the V6 a better designed engine?
  • jonoxjonox Member Posts: 100
    The four cylinder MIVEC engine was developed jointly by Mitsubishi, DaimlerChrysler and Hyundai as a of the results of their "World Engine" project. The cylinder block and other basic structural parts were jointly developed by the three companies but the intake and exhaust manifolds, cylinder head's intake and exhaust ports plus other elements related to tuning were independently developed by Mitsu.

    Production of the new engine began in 2005 at a newly installed state of the art production line at Mitsu's power train plant at Shiga, Japan.

    This engine was the first to have the continuously variable valve timing "Mitubishi Innovative Valve timing Electronic Control system (MIVEC) applied to both inlet and exhaust valves.

    Can't comment on the V6.
  • fastgstfastgst Member Posts: 46
    Say, if the electronics / sensors etc on the AWC or S-AWC fails is it under the bumper to bumper or the
    10/100k drivetrain warranty?
  • fushigifushigi Member Posts: 1,459
    If the sensor is part of the AWC system then it's covered by the AWC warranty. Doesn't matter if it's hardware, software/chips, or touchy-feely stuff like sensors. :D

    Now, if the sensor is merely used by the AWC system then it might be covered by the B2B or another warranty. Some sensors like ones that detect wheel spin might be used by TCS, ABS, and AWC. In that case I imagine Mitsu (and any other manufacturer) is going to use the shortest warranty terms they can which would probably be the B2B since TCS and ABS aren't powertrain components.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • fastgstfastgst Member Posts: 46
    Does anyone know for sure if the factory oil that came with the 3.0 V6 GT model in 2012 is synthetic or dino? A few posts back someone mentioned the factory are changing to synthetic factory fill..

    I am planning to change my own oil but I don't want to put in dino if it has synthetic already in it. On the other hand if it has dino oil I may wait until the 2nd oil change because dino breaks in better.
    For the 4.5 qt capacity in this engine the synthetic isn't too costly at all.
  • costello1costello1 Member Posts: 60
    Does the 07 have a timing belt or chain??
  • fushigifushigi Member Posts: 1,459
    According to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitsubishi_6B3_engine your '07 and my '10 have essentially the same engine, with my '10 being revised for more power.

    My maintenance manual says there is a timing belt and it should be replaced every 105K miles. Edmunds maintenance schedule at http://www.edmunds.com/car-maintenance/guide-page.html agrees and says the '07 needs a timing belt change at 105K miles so that backs up my assertion.

    Your can confirm by calling Mitsu Customer Service at 1-888-MITSU20. Don't call a dealer service dept.; being profit-motivated they might suggest you change it early.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • batman47batman47 Member Posts: 606
    In my previous two-Outlander V6 I have used synthetic oil (Mobil 5W-20). Five-quarts of this oil are about $30 container. Because I am not driving on unpaved roads and not doing up/down scramble maneuver battles which require strong engine involvement, I am now using normal engine oil (not synthetic/semi-synthetic) at a price of $15 (container five-quarts-5W-20).

    My Outlander GT 2012 has at the moment 7,600 miles (I bought it, April 2012). I did the first change of oil at 3,000 miles but I did not change the oil filter. After my return from Halifax (Canada) I will proceed to change the engine oil again + its filter. If I order oil filter in the USA for my car by giving its VIN number I will get a fat filter. The Japanese original oil filter is slim and longer. I did some calculations and the volume of both filters match each other indicating that any of those filters can be used with the Outlander V6. There is also a filter for the Outlander Sport which is slim that also can be fitted to the Outlander V6.

    For frequents changes of oil at 7,500 miles + filter, I think it is sufficient to use normal oil engine (5W-20). I am now using Castrol GTX 5W-20 Superior Deposit Protection at a price of $16. However any oil brand may do the job.

    I think that Mitsubishi is magnifying its saving in constructing this car, so I do not think that the Outlander GT will have synthetic oil in its engine. Equally Mitsubishi is saving money by sending to the USA Mitsubishi cars with poor car paint. You may expect cars manufactured by Mercedes, or Audi, or BMW be sold with synthetic oil but I have serious doubts.

    There is not a clear agreement between experts that synthetic oil is superior to normal oil. In the past I have used synthetic oil because of the requirements of my journeys in isolated areas of the planet, i.e. very hot, very cold weather, dust, and also strong use of the engine power and long journeys at 10-15 miles per hour at the most.
  • fushigifushigi Member Posts: 1,459
    My maintenance regimen is that I use the manufacturer's suggested oil as long as the car is under warranty. I also change the oil & filter according to the maintenance schedule (6 months/7500 miles).

    Once the warranty expires I'll switch to synthetic or a synthetic blend and go probably at least 10K miles with no time limit. My current thinking is to go 7500 miles, have the oil tested by a lab, and estimate extended oil life from the lab report. I'm going to guess that full synthetic will be good for at least 12K miles if I don't subject the car to overly harsh conditions. Considering my harshest abuse to the car is probably driving it in Chicago's cold/snowy winters & hot summers and that I rarely go WOT above 5K RPMs, I think that's reasonable.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • fastgstfastgst Member Posts: 46
    edited July 2012
    re: saving money: I noticed on the 2012 they took out the strut bar and the motion sensor behind the dome light. Well, I heard the motion sensor will false alarm if you leave the sunroof open anyway. The door handle has also changed from sensing your hand touch (ala Lexus) to now only using the same button to lock/unlock. I heard Mitsu claims this is a safer approach, not sure what the true story behind this one.

    Can't blame them too much as it is probably to offset the cost of Tsunami damages. They have always have one of the thinner paint job out there for years now.. Mazda also. Mine doesn't look that thin (reasonable clear coat on diamond white) but I have to get a gauge to measure it.

    However the Outlander MSRP has gone high since the introduction of S-AWC in 2010 and inflation, compared to the original in 2007. Now fully loaded outlanders like mine have a sticker price of $34-$35k.
    Granted it has everything that my previous Lexus had except homelink garage opener. I am quite happy with my outtie with the below invoice price I paid.
    (Also shopped RAV4, RDX, CR-V, CX-5, OUTBACK.)

    As to the oil, my practical driving the engine runs mostly 2000 RPM or lower so I think the dino oil would be quite sufficient. However if you really drive in a performance oriented the engine does have a high redline and why not use synthetic oil, 4.5 qt is not going to break the bank.

    Now if any of you guys know how to take a proper reading on the V6 engine please let me know. I have 1000 miles but I still don't know how to check my oil because the dipstick has oil all over. I think as long as the top hole has oil filled over it should be good.. I think the holes are put there for this purpose.
  • fushigifushigi Member Posts: 1,459
    Bummer about the strut bar; I'd probably go after-market for one or order a 2011 bar if those also fit.

    As to the sensor, I think it's acoustic not motion. On windy days with the sunroof tilted up to vent it would indeed go off; it happened to me a number of times on my '10 GT. And that is a disappointment as venting via the sunroof is a good way to keep the interior heat down on a summer day. Especially since my Outie has the black interior.

    But I thought it was just doing double-duty with the mics for the Bluetooth interface. :confuse:

    If Mitsu goes to a button-press to unlock, they may also be able to use cheaper remotes. Perhaps switch to a passive RFID chip v. the "active" system my '10 has. Consumers should also get longer remote battery life (though the batteries aren't really expensive).

    I, too, have noticed the price creep. Makes me glad I bought when I did. Still, how much of this will change yet again with the plug-in hybrid 2013 model? I also wonder if the Normal plant will get to build some regular Outlanders v. just the Sport.

    I'd say I keep mostly under 3K RPMs for reasonable acceleration & cruise anywhere from 1200-2200. 21.2MPG average over 24K miles.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • rcpaxrcpax Member Posts: 580
    I live in NW indiana area and I never go past 3750mi on my oil. Just a personal preference. I can tell when it's closer to 3K that conventional oil gets really dark. Just make sure your oil is up to the job. I started using Mobil 5000, which is only good up to 5K anyway. Actually the reason you're changing oil every so often is not the oil itself but rather the additives in it getting used up. conventional oil at 3 to 3.5K mi is really not that much. I always go by the mileage and not the time, so with my current drive, that means 2-3 oil changes a year, which is really not that bad.
  • fushigifushigi Member Posts: 1,459
    I don't think anyone should be concerned about using the manufacturer's recommended service intervals. And it's not just Mitsu. Most (if not all) manufacturers have moved to longer oil service intervals. My wife's '12 Elantra says 7500 miles/12 months, for instance.

    Other service intervals are getting longer as well. Back in '99 the Mitsu 3L V6 had a 60K timing belt replacement interval; it's now 105K.

    During warranty I go by time or miles, whichever comes first. Post-warranty I'll go purely by miles. I'm a bit of a stickler for adhering to what's needed to maintain warranty and not giving anyone a good reason to deny a potential claim. I do follow the normal schedule, though, and not the severe. Even though I live in the Chicago suburbs I don't think my driving fits the severe criteria.

    I'm at 32 months of ownership and am just approaching 25K miles so my changes are averaging time-based so far. Two per year.

    In other maintenance news my OEM tires are holding up well; they've got enough tread left for the upcoming winter and then some. I rotate the tires on average with every other oil change. At 16K miles I replaced the air filter with a K&N since they're cheaper over the car's lifetime. Not much else other than the added stuff for the 2 year service.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Most (if not all) manufacturers have moved to longer oil service intervals.

    They've been doing that at least a decade longer than us over in Europe.

    You can't tell anything by looking at oil; it's supposed to get dark (often it'll be good and dark within the first 100 miles after an oil change). Get an analysis done if you really think overly frequent oil changes are needed.
  • rcpaxrcpax Member Posts: 580
    I think I just would like to point out what I said earlier, about the protection your oil provides, which is brand dependent.Like I said, Mobil 5000 is only good for 5K mi. So i guess if you want to do 7K oil changes, then you pick an oil that would offer engine protection that long. So what are you guys using? I have tried pennzoil, and just now switched to mobil.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited August 2012
    Sounds like good oil for the CR-V taxis in Barrow Alaska ("severe and low-temperature operating conditions"). Otherwise, why bother? (Mobil Clean 5000)

    I usually run SuperTech from Walmart or whatever is on sale at NAPA when I do my 7,500 changes on my '99 Quest (175,000 miles). I didn't even use "low temp" oil in the Quest when I lived in Anchorage and the Quest lived outside.

    (Hey, just ran out to the garage and checked my gas logs. I'm 4,000 miles overdue on the oil change. Again. ;) )
  • fushigifushigi Member Posts: 1,459
    So what are you guys using?

    Whatever the dealer puts in. In my case that's run-of-the-mill non-synthetic Valvoline. I gave up doing my own maintenance years ago when it got to the point that I couldn't do it for substantially less than the dealer.

    For the after-warranty oil changes on the '99 Galant (3L V6) I used to have I went with Mobil1 purchased in bulk at Sam's Club. I'd give that to the dealer & let them do the labor & provide the filter. The Galant recommended 3K mile intervals as I recall; once I went Mobil1 I upped that to 5K.

    Side note: When the dealer resets the oil minder on my trip computer it resets the countdown timer to a fresh 6 months but on the miles countdown it adds 7500 miles. So it says something like 6 months/16,000 miles. Software bug or lazy service tech?
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • batman47batman47 Member Posts: 606
    I have travelled a lot in the USA and I have had the opportunity to talk to many people of different intellectual backgrounds. Through this experience I may say (at this moment in time) that perhaps 10% of people are acquainted with the mechanics of their car (i.e. maintenance/service/care). Some people do not know for example how many cylinders their cars have, or when was the last time the car has received an oil change and so on.

    People just take their car to their local mechanic for change of oil/fluid (steering, ATF, differential, brakes, etc). I do not think there is anything wrong with that. However, garages are business entities and their main concern is to make a profit. You cannot make a profit if you do not reduce costs and that means to put in your engine crap engine oil, low quality oil filter or the wrong filter all together, low quality brake pads, forgetting to use the right torque adjustment, overflow of fluids, or taking short cuts while servicing, or leaving the area dirty or oil dripping, etc. With few exceptions, garages use young people that usually gain experience with your car and save overhead expenses by paying them the minimum salary required by law.

    For example, the Outlander V6 requires the starter circuitry that is just adjacent to the oil filter mouth, to be protected (rug/cloth), while changing the oil filter. Usually oil attacks the wire cover of this circuitry making the device non operative or faulty after a few years of bad oil change services. Not all, but few of these technician over tighten the oil drain plug reducing the life expectation of your oil container that is made from aluminum or over tighten the oil filter to make sure you cannot take it off and therefore forcing you to use the garage services to remove the filter (it happened to me).

    I met a business man in Anacortes who did not know how many cylinders his car had and when asked when was the last time he change the oil, he did not know in spite of the fact that the warning/indicator light was on. This appears to be the tendency and then when the car ceases to operate properly people blame the car manufacturer.

    I think many people are discouraged to do these elementary services because they may not know how to lift the car and make space to go under the car. I have two jacks (Outlander), one for each side of the car. You may use an appropriate ratchet wrench to ease the oil drain plug and also an appropriate oil wrench to ease the oil filter. You also may buy a pair of Rhino ramps and a pair of stands from Walmart to elevate your car. If you want to go this way, elementary tools may be identified in Amazon on line shopping. I bought an 80 mm oil wrench from AutoZone in order to remove oil filters that fit the USA specification (MZ690116, $5.0). Also you may buy a new gasket to replace the old one on your oil drain plug. Remember the Japanese oil filter is slimmer than those sold in the USA from Mitsubishi dealers so it needs a different oil filter wrench diameter (Part # MB991396-01). The best bet is to take the old Japanese oil filter and the new USA oil filter (80 mm, 15 flutes) to Pet Boys or AutoZone or Walmart and request filter wrenches that fit these oil filters. The car section of Walmart has a lot of car service/care stuff, e.g. gloves for oil changes, small container/bucket for used engine oil, etc.

    Two jacks also facilitate the rotation of wheels in your car to comply with the directions given in your Owner’s Manual. You may need to buy a torque wrench (50-120 Nm or lb-ft equivalent) to torque your wheels after rotation (the standard torque value for the Outlander tires are 100-105 Nm).

    I do not remember how much I paid for these filter wrenches (but they are not expensive) but it will last the life of the car and beyond. Four and half quart of engine oil is $16.00 + $5.00 (OEM oil filter + $0.50 (gasket) make a total of $21.50. The cheapest price given to me for a change of oil service was $30.00 - $35.00. A 3/8 inches ratchet is needed. You may order a small set case of ratchets and sockets that will fit your oil drain plug bolt.
  • fastgstfastgst Member Posts: 46
    Do you mean my outlander comes with a smaller diameter oil filter from Japan,
    and at the parts department sells the US one which is bigger?

    Do you know what oil filter wrench that will aid remove the original oil filter on the outlander GT?
  • batman47batman47 Member Posts: 606
    The Japanese oil filter fitted in Japan to the GT has specification part# MD360935 which is slimmer to the equivalent US oil filter. The Japanese filter has a diameter of 2.63” while the MZ690116 has a diameter of 3.18”. The high of the MD360935 = 3.50” and the high of the MZ6900116 = 2.50”.
    The ratio is MZ690116/MD360935 = 1.045. Which means both type of filter can be used with the Outlander 3.0L.

    The wrench to easy the Japanese filter is part# MB991396-01 (order from Mitsubishi dealer or SPX Mitsubishi) and the wrench to easy US oil filter can be bought from Pet Boys, AutoZone or Wall Mart. The wrench is 80 mm diameter with 15 flutes.

    I hope this will help.
  • fastgstfastgst Member Posts: 46
    Thanks.. so I have to buy a special tool to remove the filter first time, then buy another tool to continue service the car using US filters..

    Also do you know the torque spec for the Oil drain plug.
    On my old eclipse it was 29 ft lbs with a new crush washer.

    But I heard these cars now have aluminum oil pan? I would guess the torque spec is 22 ft lbs or so.
  • batman47batman47 Member Posts: 606
    Correct

    Oil drain plug torque = 35 N.m
    Oil filter torque = 1 turn (hand) or 14 N.m

    Otherwise you may take your car to Pep Boy or Wall Mart or any local garage for oil change. You may take with you the new oil container, the filter (US filter), and the gasket. You may ask the technician to handle to you the used Japanese filter, keep it as a souvenir. You may be charged $20-$25 for the labor.
  • fastgstfastgst Member Posts: 46
    Hey Batman,

    Do you have any tips to read the oil level on the V6 engine?

    Do I have to park for many hours before all splashed oil returned to the sump before able to take a clean reading from the dipstick?
  • 20vcq20vcq Member Posts: 82
    edited August 2012
    I am about to have a set out H&R springs mounted on my '07 Outlander XLS - I have experience with these on Audi other sedans and coupes - - Has anyone done this with their 07 or later Mitsu? Any comments would be appreciated.
  • 20vcq20vcq Member Posts: 82
    Its all about how you insert it. Turn it so markings are on the oether side - mine its on the left. ;-)
  • batman47batman47 Member Posts: 606
    After emptying all the oil into the oil pan (4.2 qt, 4.0L) and the old oil filter (0.32 qt, 0.3L) has been taken off, you may add exactly 4.2 qt of 5W-20 oil into the engine after a new oil filter has been fitted. When the car is horizontal (after taking the jacks from the front of the car) wipe the oil stick with a cloth and test the oil level (after running the engine for ½ a minute). Most probably the two holes on the stick will be empty. Start adding 0.10 qt of oil and check the oil stick. Repeat procedure until the first hole is covered with a thin layer of oil. Continue adding more 0.10 of oil and repeat procedure until the second hole is covered with a thin layer of oil.

    You may buy a transparent graduated funnel (1/2 liter or qt) to add oil gradually to the engine. I personally do not add oil to cover the second hole.

    Without any worries I add 4 qt of oil and then start to add oil until it reaches a total of 4.2 qt + 0.32 qt = 4.52 qt.

    Every month I check the engine oil and I am satisfied when the first hole is covered with a thin layer of oil. Never change oil when the engine is fresh.
  • batman47batman47 Member Posts: 606
    May I ask you why do you want to do this job?
  • fastgstfastgst Member Posts: 46
    Are you talking about the V6 engine? I thought the handle is like a knob and the end of the dipstick has the 2 holes and no special markings.
  • puncpunc Member Posts: 2
    When i start the car the engine check light and the ASC off warning lights are displayed and the engine stalls and the rpm is not stable and the car wont accelerate over 50kmph.. tried scanning it and error codes stating throttle control ecu fail and audio can time out comes up,
    please help with some solution for this ...
  • fushigifushigi Member Posts: 1,459
    If you're still under warranty I'd suggest taking it to a dealer. Unless you're not the first owner or have over 100K miles already the powertrain warranty should still be in effect. If you're not the first owner but the car has under 60K miles then warranty is still there. Review the warranty details at http://www.mitsubishicars.com/MMNA/jsp/owners-site/warranty.do

    As far as a diagnosis goes, the ECU is the first place to look since that's what the error codes point to. Also consider the related sensors and the possibility of a tank of bad gas (which might necessitate checking/replacing the fuel filter).
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • batman47batman47 Member Posts: 606
    Please replace "transparent graduated funnel" by "transparent graduated jug"
  • evogt11evogt11 Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with AM. It wasn't the antenna. it was the head unit of the radio. I found a used one on e-bay. Rather easy to replace.
  • puncpunc Member Posts: 2
    i had my vehicle checked from a dealership service center here in sri lanka and they told me that this problem would be solved if the ECU was reprogrammed for which he said that the climate conditions are different so the sensors are faulty, would this be a solution to this problem??
  • batman47batman47 Member Posts: 606
    It appears that the front suspension of the GT has been modified (stronger sway) to make the strut redundant in a GT. There are, however, aluminum strut tower bar as an option for the 2.0L & 2.4L Outlander sold in Japan (#MZ574483). Nevertheless, this option is not valid for the Outlander 3.0L. So I may said, do not try to fit a strut tower bar onto your Outlander GT.
  • fastgstfastgst Member Posts: 46
    Can you provide your sources on how the 2012 GT has a stronger sway bar over 2011 and 2010 models, are the part number different?

    The strut bar is not to reduce sway but to reinforce the chassis.

    My theory is that Mitsu needed to reduce cost and started not installing this part after 2011. Also you will notice 2011 has the interior motion detector and a little siren speaker with wiring on the driver side of the firewall, in the engine bay, this is also missing on the 2012. (but I personally do not care for the motion detection because the sensor is ugly.

    I know Cusco makes one for the outlanders but since it is mostly for Japanese market, it may not fit the 3.0L as well?
    The best thing to source the part is from a 2011 outlander, but I do not know of the part number even looking at the diagrams from oemmitsubishiparts.com
  • fastgstfastgst Member Posts: 46
    Do you know if MZ690072 is an OK filter to use for 3.0 V6 outlander engine?
    It seems the same size as the Japanese filter (68mm) and therefore the filter wrench MB991396-01 will continue to work properly.

    The filter you listed MZ690116 is a shorter and fatter one (80mm), I suppose can use either wondering which one is better. For example originally 68mm is installed and you get some dirt build up around the oil filter housing and you put a 80mm filter the gasket is going to spin on a dirty area. And the outlander doesn't give you good access to give it a good cleaning.
  • batman47batman47 Member Posts: 606
    You may be right, however I do not think that Mitsubishi seeks to save money with the GT otherwise it will offer to customers a strut option to order. It does not.

    The stronger sway opinion was given to me by a dealer without elaborating. However I should mention that my Lexus SC300 was sold to me long ago without a strut tower bar in spite of the fact that these models were high speed performance. The Toyota Supra which is super high speed performance has indeed a strut fitted in it.

    I have tried my GT 2012 in the Vancouver Islands (zigzag roads) in rain at high speed and the car responded as expected. Perhaps Mitsubishi engineers found out that a strut is not necessary bearing in mind that the GT 4x4 has an active front differential that may conflict with the strut assemblage. Perhaps this is the main reason that a strut is not an option for the 2012 Outlander GT. However these are just opinions.
  • batman47batman47 Member Posts: 606
    I have used oil filter# MZ690072 in my previous Outlander XLS and in my 2010 GT (not always). However, that filter is recommended for the Outlander 2.0L & 2.4L.

    With regard to the filter wrench MB991396-1, this will ease the Japanese filter but not the US filter in spite, as you said; the length is the same (68 mm). The filter MB991396-1 is 1 or 2 mm wider which make it inoperative to ease the US oil filter. The oil filter wrench for the US filter has part# MB991396 (without the extension -1).

    As a matter of fact the Japanese filter fits neatly on the mouth of the filter cavity, so there is no space for accumulation of dirt. However, the 80 mm of the oil filter cavity that sticks out could result in the accumulation of dirt. As a matter of fact every time you change a filter a clean cloth must be used to wipe the mouth thoroughly before putting in a new filter.

    The 80 mm oil filter needs to be adjusted all its length, and also be torque appropriately. The first time I did this, without proper fitting, oil flushed out everywhere under the car when the engine was switched on. The final result was a mess.
  • jonoxjonox Member Posts: 100
    Was at the dealership today for oil and filter change on my 2010 ES. Tech advised the vehicle required a four wheel alignment for $99.00 due to uneven tire wear. I had also noticed some looseness in the steering which tightened right up after the re-alignment was completed.
    I'm wondering if others have had alignment issues this soon. The vehicle has low milage and is driven exclusively on paved highway although perhaps the occasional pothole might throw the alignement out.

    Also looked at a brand new 2013 Outlander LS which they had recently received as a management vehicle marked as not for resale. It was the same as a 2012. I queried the supposed 2013 redesign and hi-bred models and it was suggested these might be introduced mid 2013 for the 2014 model year.
  • fushigifushigi Member Posts: 1,459
    As another low mileage driver (my '10 Outlander GT has almost 26K miles) I've not noticed any issues with the steering or alignment. All I've really done maintenance-wise is the 6-month oil change (always under the mileage allotment) and tire rotation roughly every 7500 miles. I did the 2 year/30K service this past June as the car was 2.5 years old but still under 30K miles; I considered that a reasonable compromise. Oh, and around 16 or 18K miles I replaced the engine air filter with a K&N which I use to keep air filter costs down over the life of the car.

    I had heard that the redesigned Outlander would hit the US as a 2014 but might hit other markets as a 2013. I'm OK with that as I don't really have plan on trading in mine with such low miles. And I'm not really sold yet on the redesign's styling; I will need to see it in person. But I am excited about the eventual debut of a plug-in hybrid version if Mitsu can keep the costs reasonable.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • watchymanwatchyman Member Posts: 1
    Greetings!
    I'm thinking of buying a 2008 Mitsubishi Outlander BUT it has some corrosion on the engine compartment. I checked the undercarriage and it looked fine.
    What do you guys think, a deal breaker?

    Thanks!!
  • solowalkersolowalker Member Posts: 118
    I would drive it to a Mitsu Dealer to see if the warranty for corrosion is still in effect...They will be able to tell you if the car was flooded...

    What's the price....Mileage....condition...?
    Is it a private party sale or used car lot sale...?
  • batman47batman47 Member Posts: 606
    The Outlander as well as any car comes from factory with their 4 wheel aligned to correspond to standards of the type of car. Alignments are related with angles that receive names like Caster, Camber and Toe-in & Toe-out. The dealer has the standards angle values for your car model.

    I noted that after a traffic accident my Lexus SC300 was slightly pulling to the right on very flat tarmac road, which gave an indication that, the car may need an alignment. I already had the standards values for this car (i.e. caster, camber, and toe), so I requested the dealer to provide me with the computer printout of the actual angles of the 4-wheels of my car which the dealer did. The dealer must provide you with the computer listing after supposedly the dealer has done the alignments. The latest computer print out must be almost equal to the standard values (that is why you have paid $100). I may say, do not take the technician’s words as fully trustworthy.

    I have found out, after accompanying my wife to the garage for a change of tires for her car, that the technician called my wife to tell her that petrol filter need to be changed or that one of the wheels does not rotate as it should and the technician suspected something wrong with the calliper.

    Equally I also observed a young woman with her Audi lifted coming back from this helpful advice of the technician totally distressed. You could see that the woman was pale and become paler when the technician said that all the extras things to do will cost her around $500.

    I did not take any note about the technician’s advice to my wife because the technician’s findings are presently part of his/her technique to increase the profit of his/her establishment.

    There is a lot of information in the Internet to go empty handed to a garage to be screwed up by them.

    With regards to your alignment of your car and the fact that your tires show uneven wear I may say that also the uneven tire wear can be produced because of under or over tire inflation. Buy a tire pressure gauge and check the pressure of your tires every 15-days before you take your car for a ride.

    With regards to the outlander 2013 I may say that if the car looks similar to the 2012 model then that car is not the brand new Outlander (check Mitsubishi Motor Russia) to have an idea of the external shape of the car or just google the internet for this new model. There is a lot of information about the Outlander 2014 for the USA.
  • batman47batman47 Member Posts: 606
    It appears that corrosion is a problem with the Outlander that has missed some corrosion prevention treatment from manufacture. However a 2008 Outlander should have the normal corrosion little ones spots somewhere but nothing serious. Most probable this car has been driven on the beach (salted sands) or has been left in storage near the beach without proper protection for months. Also the salt on ice roads is responsible for premature corrosion in the engine bay. If you suspect this is what happens in your car you should use a spray bottle filled with pure water and spray all that part that you suspect salt is involved. If the corrosion has already take hold there is a product used to protect airplanes on air planes carriers (sea). I have used ACF-50 spray to stop corrosion to continue. This product protect for 2-year and it has to be used again to continue protecting your car. I have used this product in my Lexus SC300 engine bay. It does not attack rubber or plastics. The engine compartment of my Lexus looks like new in spite of the fact that it is 16-years old.

    As a matter of corrosion prevention we should spray the entire engine compartment with 3M dry silicone spray or equivalent after 1-year ownership. Silicone does not attack rubber or metal and may protect your car for 4-6 months.
Sign In or Register to comment.