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Comments
wwest? Any ideas?
On the other hand at ~40MPH the "auto" 4WD system should NOT be engaged, perhaps that is part of the problem.
There's a variable reluctance sensor. and it is triggered by a 36-minus-1 tooth trigger wheel mounted on the crankshaft . The sine wave output is via a twisted pair, but if one wire is open or grounded then a miss will occur due to the designed CKP software edge transition.
At low speed it reads all tooth edges, but as speed increases it has to shift to counting every other edge. The software designer picks an optimal transition RPM, and all is good unless one CKP wire fails. Then the PCM goes through a momentary reset which ends up as a miss.
It usually won't hurt the vehicle, it's just annoying when you drive at that point. Look for pinched or corroded wiring between the PCM and CKP sensor.
I have pretty much zero respect for GM, but I don't insult the owners.
The term arose out of the tire under-inflation episode that Ford themselves caused. Even worse they decided to place the blame on the tire manufacturer, even won that point in court, rather than take responsibility for their own idiocy.
And the now we come to the new models being converted to FWD, or should I say the FreeStyle, Taurus X, failed in the marketplace models, have simply been renamed in order to benefit from the buying public's faith in the "Exploder" name.
I have never really liked, been a fan of the 4runner, but I would direct anyone considering purchasing an Exploder take a long hard look at the 4runner.
Car and Driver did their damndest to replicate the phenomenon. Blew up numerous tires on the back of Explorers - couldn't duplicate the rollover.
So Ford bigots like yourself will ignore the evidence that the Government, the Courts and the Media have concluded to be correct - and blame the car. But you're wrong. And your credibility with me just expired.
As for the 4 Runner. I like those too.
I've now been greeted by that little flashing light again. The local Ford dealership ran a diagnostic scan and it basically indicated that the same parts need to be replaced. Is it really possible that all of those things could be bad again? I know it isn't the dealership trying to milk any money out of me. They didn't know that those things had been replaced before or that the computer's history had been cleared after the repairs previously.
I seriously want to just pull the sensors out of the control module, but I can't seem to fit myself under the glove compartment and the cover is bolted in place. I believe that I'm going to try to remove the glove compartment today and give it another try.
Has ANYONE else had this problem? :confuse:
Ford engineering realized that the Exploder had to great a tendancy for rollover.
Ford design engineers decided that the fix would be to recommend lowering the factory recommendation for tire pressure in order to lower the center of gravity.
Sound like a good deisgn approach to you, anyone...??
The trans-axels, ball joints and control arms, and front wheel bearings have been replaced since the noise started, so those parts are not involved. Noise has been happening for at least two years (about 20,000 miles)
Reading different forums seems to point to the transfer case. Logically I would think it would be the transfer case or front drive axle.
Any comments on what the problem is?
Can I just “unhook” the transfer case drive to the front end (basically turning it into a 2WD)? I really don’t need the 4WD.
While I was driving it home the transmission
Acted like the 4wd high was ingaged.
Around 45 mph it smoothed out. Both the
4wd high an low light would flash randomly.
Was wondering if this could be the shift motor.
Any advice will help a lot.
Today when switched into 4WD (high or low) I get a ghastly grinding noise when moving, and a serious amount of drag when I turn left or right - as though I'd applied the brakes. Straight ahead it's just the grinding noise, and if I switch back to auto 4WD it's all good - no noise, no drag. Oil in T-case is good, all wires seem connected.
Sounds very mechanical to me, but I don't want to pull the T-case if this is only a sensor/relay/GEM/switch motor problem. Suggestions?