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Honda Fit Engine Questions

SylviaSylvia Member Posts: 1,636
in Honda
Honda Fit problems starting
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  • fitchgrrlfitchgrrl Member Posts: 21
    Any one had problems with starting their Fit?

    Today, i put the key in and it wouldnt turn...took 35 minutes of trying (tryed both keys i had for the car) before i could start it. had this happen a couple of times before but usually got it in three or four tries. i was ready to have the thing towed back to the dealership...any thoughts?

    i love my fit but it is starting to drive me crazy. :confuse:
  • crimsonacrimsona Member Posts: 153
    I'm wondering if you accidentally engaged the immobilizer. If so, jiggle the steering wheel a bit, turn it back and try try again
  • hungarian83hungarian83 Member Posts: 678
    Two questions:

    Have the keys gotten wet?
    Was the little green key symbol by the "0" on the tachometer flashing when you tried to turn the car on?

    The keys for the Fit have a microchip inside that disables the immobilizer when you turn the ignition. This makes sure that if someone else happens to have a key that could fit inside the ignition keyhole and turn the car, the microchip (or lack of) will prevent the car from actual starting.

    Letting the keys get wet (putting them through the laundry or having them in your pocket at the beach) could cause the microchip to not work...consequently, your car won't start. The dealership I bought my car from is very close to the beach, and the dealer told me that often surfers would come back from a day in the water (with their keys in their pockets) only to find the car won't start!

    If the little green key symbol flashes, it means an improperly coded key was stuck in the ignition. I would assume this also happens if the microchip isn't working or is damaged.

    Regardless, I would let the dealership know this is happening.
  • boatfloydboatfloyd Member Posts: 29
    Try to move the "Steering Wheel" while trying to turn the key, if the key will not turn. The "Steering Wheel" might be locked? I had this problem with another car I owned.
    boatfloyd
  • fitchgrrlfitchgrrl Member Posts: 21
    Nope. Keys didn't get wet. Saturday, when this happened at its worst (like 30-40 minutes before it would start - i think that i had steam coming out of my ears) i tried both keys i have for the car - one of which hasn't left the house since coming home from the dealership. And no green flashing key.
    Going to call the dealership if it happens again.
    Thanks!
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    Posts on the power steering issue have been moved to the Honda Fit Steering Problems discussion.
  • fitdcfitdc Member Posts: 9
    There seems to be a glich with the Fit's starting system. On four seperate occasions the Fit would not start with under 500 miles on it. It would eventially start on the third to fifth try, problem occured when engine cold(in mid June) or warm. Key would turn on accessories but not starter. Anyone have a check list of things to check next time this occures?
  • fitdcfitdc Member Posts: 9
    May have solved the starting problem. Seems the clutch must be fully depressed to the floorboard to start. Haven't had a problem once I someone passed on this tip from other Hondas. FitDC
  • carhakrcarhakr Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 Sport Fit, and my wife called me while I was at work. She got in the Fit to run an errand, and the car's alarm went off, the car wouldn't start, she couldn't get the key out of the ignition, and she had a message that the car didn't recognize the key! After she went back in the house to call me, the alarm stopped. She went back to the car, and when she tried to start the car, the alarm went off again with all of the same symptoms. The dealer had no idea what happened.
    Anybody out there have any ideas? :mad:
  • proviprovi Member Posts: 1
    hi:

    I brought a honda fit 7 months ago, I noticed everytime I drive over a crack, bump or stop short I notice a "boinggg" sound, like a spring is about to pop loose, it's been doing this since I brought the car, I thought it was because it was new, but then I received a recall notice about 2007 honda fits, it says in the salt-belt states, the moisture from a drivers wet shoes may penetrate under-carpet wire harness and cause the passenger's side and front airbags to malfunction, oh oh, this don't sound good, would that be the "boingg"sound? anyone have the same problem?

    :confuse:
  • chestnutchestnut Member Posts: 19
    I have the same thing on my Fit I think it is the anti-lock braking engaging
  • jratnourjratnour Member Posts: 4
    Twice since I have had my 08 fit I have had rocks get stuck between the caliper and the rotor and when I drive it makes this awful screeching sound. The dealer had to take it out once and this time I think it popped out. Why does this happen??? No other car I have had has done this.
  • mustangxrmustangxr Member Posts: 10
    I have noticed when changing wheels that the stock sport wheels are very tight against the front brake caliper. I thought that there could be a possibility of interference from a pebble getting in between the wheel and the caliper. I don't think it would stay there for long though.
    Cheers, Pete
  • jratnourjratnour Member Posts: 4
    Will it cause any damage if it does stay there for too long?
  • eli8eli8 Member Posts: 14
    hi i have 3000+ miles on my 2007 Honda Fit and twice recently i had starting problems...

    :confuse:
  • eli8eli8 Member Posts: 14
    i have 3000+ and i had this problem twice also...
    i am bringing my car in next for weird noise when transmission shifts and will ask about this. I did have this problem with my 2002 honda civic..had to bring it in 3 or 4 times. Suddenly it stopped..i think they fixed it but never told me what was wrong. once it started by itself...and i did not have an automatic starter. that was very interesting. of course, no one believed me...

    you need to videotape your starts...or bring a witness to " testify" at the Honda service center...that is what i do..
  • jaimemc01jaimemc01 Member Posts: 1
    I bought my new 2008 Honda Fit Sport manual transmission 10 days ago but today I noticed when my car is in idle-clutch in and brake cause I am waiting to go I hear and increase in idle, almost like a fan noise, or a "Vroom" noise that I have not heard before. Then it stops and goes quiet again but once it started it would do this every time in idle- today only. I had this sound with my old manual transmission - car on its last legs. But I was so happy not to hear it till today. I know nothng about car engines, and maybe this is a cooling thing or something and normal for manual transmissions?????????? I hope!! Should I bring it back to the dealer? Is this normal? Let me know. Thanks. Actually when I think about it , the "vroom" noise happened when I put it in neuteal with brake on with no clutch. And when the "Vroom" noise came on for a minute the front headlights dimmed a little. Any Help??? Thanks
  • widetrack2000widetrack2000 Member Posts: 13
    I plan on buying a Fit this year and wanted to know from people who own them if the engine in the current model is a good one and if so what if any is the difference between this one and the engine that will be in the new redesigned model or are they the same?

    Thank you!
  • jeffbklynjeffbklyn Member Posts: 1
    I have an 07 Fit Sport with Potenza 205/R45/16 tires with the optional sport rims. I notice that the car is very senstive to any imperfections on the road. A few days ago, while drive in 1-9 in NJ I drove over a defective joint in the road. There was a gap. The car bottomed out onto the rims, causing a very large jolt. Enough to cause the rear view mirror to drop down. This impact resulted in ruining the 2 front times and scraping on of the rims.

    I see this as a serious problem. Has anyone else noticed this problem?
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    Since you found the correct discussion for your question I've deleted the discussion you created.
    Please remember to check the discussion list for existing discussion before creating new ones. This helps us avoid duplicating discussions. Thanks.
  • widetrack2000widetrack2000 Member Posts: 13
    Sorry.....

    I'm still learning the ropes and will be more careful.

    Thank you!
  • smile100smile100 Member Posts: 20
    I had a 2007 Honda Fit (base, automatic) whose idle is around 700 rpm when engine is warm. She also gave me average 41 mpg. Sadly, some one hit my Fit last year, so I had to buy another one.

    However, this 2008 Fit (base, automatic) has odd idle speed (900 rpm) even though her engine is warm. Her fuel economy (average 33 mpg) is not so good, either. Does any one have similar issue or any suggestions? How's your idle speed when engine is warm? I would like to get an idea. Thanks.
  • khandalokkhandalok Member Posts: 2
    Hi guys,

    I just got my new honda fit sport. Its my first car. I dont know much about cars but have a question. Everytime I start my car I see the Cool ( Temperature) sign lighting up. But after I drive may be about 1 mile it goes off. Can any one tell me if drving with the cool sign on hamper the engine. Also I noticed that the car does not pick up so well but ones the cool temperature sign goes off the car has good acceleration. I will really appreciate your help regarding this issue.

    Thanks
  • eli8eli8 Member Posts: 14
    hello

    I have a 2007 Fit that i got in Sept. love it. Congratulations on your first car. The cool light stays on until the engine warms up. This is normal. Never noticed that my car doesnt pick up well with this light on but it could be because the engine & various fluids in the car havent warmed up yet. dont think this is a problem

    :)
  • eman6628eman6628 Member Posts: 41
    I had my AT sports Fit for about 1-1/2 years now. I usually drive it slowly (keeping the RPM under 3K) until the "cold" light goes out. Also I don't turn on the heat until the light goes out too.
  • cherylfitcherylfit Member Posts: 1
    yes, my doesn't always start. i took it to the dealer twice and they tell me that it's always started for them. once i left it there an entire week.

    did you find anything out?
    -c
  • eli8eli8 Member Posts: 14
    Hi Cheryl

    it has done it a couple of more times...but so far it always starts...the thought of sitting at the dealers or leaving the car...is too much..right now...when i bring it in next for service i will inform them...will let you know
    Elid
  • gpahilangpahilan Member Posts: 2
    Hi All,

    I am from singapore and have heard from our local authorized honda dealer that this is a problem with the ECU for the 2008 Honda Fit.

    Unfortunately it will require a reset of the ECU and there is a special machine required for this which is not yet available outside Japan. Only JDM Fits will benefit from the reset. Exported versions may have to live with this problem until the machine is deployed to authorized service centers.

    Seems to be reliable info as the dealer showed me the email coming from Japan. I have just ordered the new Fit and I hope the ECU has already been corrected for this problem.

    Please do keep us posted on any feedbacks from your distributors if they have the same info.

    GP
  • lewjac3lewjac3 Member Posts: 15
    Gp, what is a ECU? I am seriously thinking of getting the 2009 when it comes to the USA.
  • gpahilangpahilan Member Posts: 2
    Hi there,

    Please follow this link for a write-up on what ECU is about:
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_Control_Unit
  • lewjac3lewjac3 Member Posts: 15
    GP, thank's, do you know if they resolved the problem?
  • smile100smile100 Member Posts: 20
    A follow-up.

    My 2008 Honda Fit finally broke in. Now she has average 40-42 mpg (after 6000 miles). I am happy. The idle speed backs to 700 rpm most of the time.
  • gsakalagsakala Member Posts: 7
    Just had my Fit in for its first oil change and check up today. My idle speed with the engine warmed up has been in the 800 to 900 rpm range since day one. The dealership told me the factory spec for US Fits was 750 +/- 50 rpm. That sounds high to me, what have you others seen and heard?
    Gregg
  • feddupfeddup Member Posts: 11
    It sounds right on the money. I believe mine idles around 800 and has for nine months.
  • mike512mike512 Member Posts: 1
    My 2007 Fit lost power after doing an oil change....it will not go more than 25 miles per hour. Has anyone had this problem?
  • omar8omar8 Member Posts: 1
    is your fit AT or MT? if its AT the transmission may not be working properly
  • yasirfaheemyasirfaheem Member Posts: 2
    I have 63309 miles on my 07 fit sport. I was feeling a weird popping or misfire for a about a month now. So i hooked up the carmd to the computer port of the car. I got some codes back and want to know how i can fix them. They all seem to be for the problem that i think i was having.

    P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected - This fault code indicates the Misfire Monitor has detected that a misfire in Cylinder 2 was detected. The vehicle’s computer continuously checks for engine misfires and identifies the specific cylinder or cylinders in which the misfire occurred. The Misfire Monitor continuously checks for engine misfires. A misfire occurs when the air-fuel mixture in the cylinder does not ignite properly due to the absence or incorrect proportions of spark, air and fuel in the combustion chamber. Possible Causes:
    Fuel system problem affecting only Cylinder 2
    Ignition system problem affecting Cylinder 2
    Base engine (mechanical) problem affecting only Cylinder 2
    Condition For Setting The Code:
    DTC P0107, P0108, P0131, P0132, P0171, P0172, P1128, P0335, P0336, P0505, P1128, P1129, P1259, P1361, P1362, P1366, P1367 and P1519 not set, engine running under positive torque conditions, and the PCM detected a misfire condition in one cylinder. Note: If the misfire is severe, the MIL will flash on/off on the 1st trip!

    P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected - This fault code indicates the Misfire Monitor has detected that a misfire in Cylinder 1 was detected. The vehicle’s computer continuously checks for engine misfires and identifies the specific cylinder or cylinders in which the misfire occurred. The Misfire Monitor continuously checks for engine misfires. A misfire occurs when the air-fuel mixture in the cylinder does not ignite properly due to the absence or incorrect proportions of spark, air and fuel in the combustion chamber. Possible Causes:
    Faulty spark plug
    Faulty ignition coil
    Faulty fuel injector
    Faulty fuel pump and/or regulator
    Poor connections or loose terminals at the ignition coil, the injector, and the PCM
    "Open" or "Short" circuit between the ignition coil and the under-hood fuse/relay box
    "Open" or "Short" circuit between the PCM and the ignition coil
    Internal engine problem
    Incorrect PCM idle learn procedure
    Incorrect CKP pattern learn procedure
    MAF sensor
    Condition For Setting The Code:
    The execution time is once per driving cycle and the duration time is 200 revolutions for Type 1 and 1,000 revolutions for Type 2. Conditions for illuminating the MIL Type 1 and Type 2. * Misfire Type 1 (Severe) Per 200 revolutions 27-90 times. If a type 1 misfire (catalyst damaging) occurs once, the MIL blinks once per second, a Temporary DTC is stored, and the high rpm fuel injection stop system activates. The fuel injection stops, at high rpm only, on the cylinder that has the highest misfire counts. the MIL continues to blink, and the fuel injection stays off at high rpm, until the drive is completed. If a type 1 misfire occurs during a second drive cycle, the MIL and fuel injection behave the same and a DTC is stored. After a type 1 misfire has been detected during two drive cycles, the MIL comes on and stays on beginning with the third drive cycle, unless the Temporary DTC has been cleared by the PCM. Even if the MIL is on, it will start blinking if a type 1 misfire occurs. If the malfunction recurs during the next (second) drive cycle, the MIL comes on and the DTC and the freeze frame data are stored. * Misfire Type 2 (Light) Per 1,000 revolutions 55 times. If a type 2 misfire (emission-related but not severe enough to immediately damage the catalyst) occurs, a Temporary DTC is stored, but the MIL does come on or blink. If a type 2 misfire occurs during a second drive cycle, the MIL comes on and stays on unless the Temporary DTC has been cleared by the PCM. NOTE: Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot.

    P0300 Random Misfire Detected - This fault code indicates the Misfire Monitor has detected that multiple misfires in multiple random cylinders (the misfire is not isolated to a single cylinder) were detected. The vehicle’s computer continuously checks for engine misfires and identifies the specific cylinder or cylinders in which the misfire occurred. The Misfire Monitor continuously checks for engine misfires. A misfire occurs when the air-fuel mixture in the cylinder does not ignite properly due to the absence or incorrect proportions of spark, air and fuel in the combustion chamber. Possible Causes:
    Poor fuel quality
    Clogged fuel filter
    Faulty spark plugs
    Faulty Fuel pump and/or regulator
    Poor connections or loose terminals at the ignition coil, the injector, and the PCM
    Check the CKP pattern learn procedure
    Condition For Setting The Code:
    The execution time is once per driving cycle and the duration time is 200 revolutions for Type 1 and 1,000 revolutions for Type 2. Conditions for illuminating the MIL Type 1 and Type 2. * Misfire Type 1 (Severe) Per 200 revolutions 27-90 times. If a type 1 misfire (catalyst damaging) occurs once, the MIL blinks once per second, a Temporary DTC is stored, and the high rpm fuel injection stop system activates. The fuel injection stops, at high rpm only, on the cylinder that has the highest misfire counts. the MIL continues to blink, and the fuel injection stays off at high rpm, until the drive is completed. If a type 1 misfire occurs during a second drive cycle, the MIL and fuel injection behave the same and a DTC is stored. After a type 1 misfire has been detected during two drive cycles, the MIL comes on and stays on beginning with the third drive cycle, unless the Temporary DTC has been cleared by the PCM. Even if the MIL is on, it will start blinking if a type 1 misfire occurs. If the malfunction recurs during the next (second) drive cycle, the MIL comes on and the DTC and the freeze frame data are stored. * Misfire Type 2 (Light) Per 1,000 revolutions 55 times. If a type 2 misfire (emission-related but not severe enough to immediately damage the catalyst) occurs, a Temporary DTC is stored, but the MIL does come on or blink. If a type 2 misfire occurs during a second drive cycle, the MIL comes on and stays on unless the Temporary DTC has been cleared by the PCM. NOTE: Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot.

    How i fix this?
  • yasirfaheemyasirfaheem Member Posts: 2
    What are the best long lasting spark plugs for the 2007 fit sport? How good are Autolite XP Xtreme Performance Spark Plugs
  • klo2009klo2009 Member Posts: 1
    Hello. I don't know anything about a car. @So this has been a big problem for me.

    I bought 2009 FIT DX-A about a week and a half ago. about 3 days ago, my didn't start, so I asked someone to jump start. This was fine for 3 days, then this morning the car stop running again.
    When I turn a key this happenes.
    ONE CLICK sound comes out.
    Lights, audio, eveything else works just fine.
    Tried jump start, didn't work or what's so ever.

    Then, I tried to jump start again, this time the starter car had run engine for awhile... @my car went WEEN@WEEN@WEEN but not starting.

    Is this a dead battery?@@I thought when battery is DEAD, all the other electric stuff wouldn't light up as well.

    Could it be a starter?
    Or Could it be something in the engine?

    This has been super dissapointing, I live in the area where I really need a car to go around. I thought I'd ask b/c I'm trying to get a mechanic who can come to my place to fix but I haven't being able to contact him.

    I'm the 3rd owner and my previous owner doesn't know if it has a warranty... I think it still does but I don't even know how to claim it when@I have no idea where they got it in a first place.

    Also need an owner's manual it's not here in the car. @can I buy it?

    Thanks. Hope I explained well...
  • fit00fit00 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 Honda Fit Sport. I think I accidently hit the manual transmission paddle on my steering wheel. Anyhow, when I have my foot on the brake the care jumps like its about to shut off, sometimes it drives funny too. Also the engine light flashed briefly. Is it stuck between the manual and automatic transmission? I have since turned if off all night it is still doing the same thing. (FYI I just got it repaired for a fender bender up front on the left hand side, but it was doiing fine when I took it out of Baugh's auto body shop two days ago). Thanks!!
  • sublimejulietsublimejuliet Member Posts: 1
    I recently test drove a 2008 Honda fit sport with 86,000 miles on it that I'm seriously considering buying. But I noticed with the air conditioner on(it was a hot day) that the car was idling rough. It was a slight jolt, almost felt like a transmission issue. I'm wondering if that's a common problem, stemming from it being a small engine or if it actually is a problem that could become bigger down the road. Any help?
  • maxx4memaxx4me Member Posts: 1,340
    edited June 2013
    Lots of information on fitfreak. The VTEC engine requires valve clearance adjustments. Some owners get away with going 100,000 miles before requiring the valves to be serviced; some require it earlier. My Honda dealer wanted $450 to do the valve clearance adjustment. My mechanic wants $100 less than that. Another item that can cause rough idle aside from the spark plugs is the coil packs that plug into the spark plugs. These coil packs reportedly area a weak spot on the Fit. I believe they cost about $40 for each coil; there are four on a four cylinder engine. My Fit is nearing 100,000 miles and it has never had the valves adjusted. They don't appear to be too loud yet, nor am I getting any indication of rough idle. My guess is that it is one of the two, with the valve clearances being the likely culprit given that many on fitfreak report changing out their coil packs first, but with no fix for their rough idle. After they do the valve adjustment however, the idle is as smooth as butter. Honda Fits are pretty solid cars, so check the fluid in the transmission (the stick is very hard to reach down next to the coolant overflow jug) to see if there is any red color remaining. The fluid needs to be changed no later than 100,000 miles, so if there is some red and the fluid does not smell unusually acrid or burnt, I'd be willing to bet that it is not a transmission issue you are feeling. If you are buying from a dealer, negotiate a great price and then at the last minute, tell them you are concerned about the idle and want the coil packs changed out and the valves properly adjusted before you sign the deal. You'll blow their mind when they see how knowledgeable you are on the car you are buying.
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