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Hyundai Azera 2007

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Comments

  • 29tomt29tomt Member Posts: 12
    1. Same issues with Michelens and road noise. Replaced mine at 20K with Michelens and no problems since.

    2. After going to the owner of the dealership, I got my dash top replaced. Same as others reported about the area cracking above the airbag on passenger side. I had reported this while in warranty and as cracking got worse, was then told car out of first 60K warranty and factory would not do anything. Anyway, got my dash top replaced.

    3. Had some really cold weather for North Florida two years ago. Engine had noise at startup from over night. Left dealer overnight and they replaced the timing chain tensioner.

    4. Got a air bag light. I had reported that the pretensioner on the passenger side would lock up with no slack and told that normal. Code was for that. Would not fix a out of warranty when I got code. Again,going to owner of dealership got this fixed.

    Note this car has been dealer maintained since new and based on their service schedule so there was plenty of evidence to back me. The only thing I have balked on is changing spark plugs at 60K. They were saying their black book said to and I showed them an insert with papers that came with car that says 97K. Now, I have heard that these plugs can freeze up in the head but since I am going by factory maintnance info and the engine warranty is 100K, I will have them changed before running out of warranty to be safe.
  • armoredfrogarmoredfrog Member Posts: 9
    Had my '07 since new (07/07/07), w/29 miles on the ODO.

    In addition to regular oil changes (5K for me) as well as air & cabin filters once a year and the occasional burnt bulbs ...

    30K - Fuel Tank Air Filter/Cannister Close Valve replaced (self)
    35K - Fuel Filter replaced (self)
    41K - LH Oil Control Valve replaced (dealer warranty)
    60K - Flushed ATF & coolant, Fuel Tank Air Filter replaced (self)
    82K - Recall (Seat Belt Tension Sensor) and 4-wheel alignment (dealer)
    84K - All brake pads replaced, 4 new rotors (self)
    85K - Serp/Acc Belt & Tensioner replaced (self)

    131K miles currently, mpg display 27.8-28.2, original plugs. Don't see any point in replacing the long-life Iridium plugs until the idle gets noticeably rough or the ECU throws a code. IMHO, those stories about freezing/seizing plugs in the head are indeed stories and utter nonsense.

    Fuel filter was a PITA at 35K, don't see replacing THAT again until the pump lets go.

    Had similar issues with factory Michelins (i.e. cupping, wedging resulting in lots of noise). Several tire types since - subject for another day.

    Suspension not "quite" as crisp as my co-worker's Maxima, but he doesn't have a motorized sun shade, rain sensing wipers, Infinity 6-disc CD w/XM or power mirrors. I DO like his heated steering wheel though.

    Bottom line: Good, reliable, well-balanced, smooth riding, comfortable car.

    Looking forward to the 5G Azera as well as 5.0 Genesis but I'll wait for 2013 or 2014, which ever year invites the first set of learning curve improvements.

    Cheers,
  • jkolehjkoleh Member Posts: 38
    How critical is replacing the fuel tank air filter as part of the 60m service on the Azeara? What is likely to happen if it fails? Thanks for any advice.
  • armoredfrogarmoredfrog Member Posts: 9
    The Fuel Tank Air Filter (aka Canister Close Valve, aka Fuel Tank Vent Valve) is in fact a filter with an integrated solenoid valve that plays a key role in the EVAP System Circuit. If it fails, you WILL find yourself staring at a CEL (Check Engine Light) as the fuel vapors can't vent, purge, pressurize, or cycle properly.

    I replace mine at the prescribed interval as it located behind the rear fender/wheel liner and as such, sees it share of rain, ice, snow, salt and whatever else I happen to drive through.

    I usually time the replacement to coincide with changing over to summer/winter tires as you have to remove the LR tire...takes less than 10 minutes after the wheel is removed. TIP: Keep a few extra push-type fasteners around as they seem to be problematic when it's time to re-use them.

    The FTAF is ~$37.00 US, if you're curious.

    Good hunting, cheers
  • justinrwjustinrw Member Posts: 18
    I have the 07 Limited (pearl white), and for probably 2 years, the chrome strips on the front bumper have been losing paint. It wasn't so obvious the first year or so, but now it just looks terrible. The chrome portion of the strip is fine, but above and below the strip is painted plastic. Underneath the white paint is a black surface, so it is very easy to see once the paint starts chipping away. The paint can be easily chipped off by finger at this point.

    I was just wondering if anyone has had this problem and fixed it themselves, or is this a problem better handled by the dealer? The parts look to cost $75-100 from parts.com
  • gamlegedgamleged Member Posts: 442
    Haven't seen any particular mention. You might try a small bottle of white appliance (refrigerator/range) paint and a small brush to do a touch-up if the paint loss is staying fairly close to the chrome strip...
  • cobrazeracobrazera Member Posts: 352
    Engine had noise at startup from over night. Left dealer overnight and they replaced the timing chain tensioner. . I don't know about the new Azeras, but the early ones have some piston slap on startup. The colder the weather, the more noticeable it is. Your dealer may have gotten some warranty money that will not solve the issue.

    There was a recall on the tensioner on very early Azeras - although I'm not sure if '07s were even affected.

    I had a Tahoe that had owners up in arms about piston slap - and in colder weather my '06 Azera makes the same noise on startup that the Tahoe did - it's piston slap. No big deal, though, supposedly does not affect engine life, goes away after a few miles, and if you have the sound system on it is not noticeable.
  • gamlegedgamleged Member Posts: 442
    I had a bot-used 1990 Honda Accord (bought in '91 with 28k miles) that had a similar sound at cold startup. Dealer said it was normal for that year, I said riiiight. When I sold it 16 years later with 245,000 miles on it, it still made that same cold start noise...
  • justinrwjustinrw Member Posts: 18
    Thanks. It is more than just a minor touchup and I think the original white paint will continue to chip off whether I paint it or not. It probably didnt cure correctly when it was originally painted. I forgot to take a picture to show you. Maybe I'll paint it anways. Won't hurt anything. I might try to find a parts diagram. My only worry is it has some sensors behind it or something. If not, I can't imagine it would be hard to replace.
  • justinrwjustinrw Member Posts: 18
    At 88k miles on my 07 azera and finally had a low beam burn out. Bought the sylvania h7 silverstar. It definitely lights up the road much better. (changed both low beams at once to save doing it in the future).

    I will say that changing the bulbs myself ended up taking much longer than I thought. It is hard to get the one nut off the bolt and then getting the headlight enclosure out is a task as well. Once the enclosure is out, it is a snap. Putting it back in is not bad either.

    In regards to tires, I rode on altimax HPs for 2+ years (30k miles). in my experience they wear out quickly and hard to keep balanced. had to replace 2 of them in the last year due to nail/screw punctures.

    finally got sick of the altimaxes and put the 2 good ones on the rear and bought 2 new goodyears for the front (a lot of snow in ohio - wanted good tread going into winter). wow the car rides like a dream ever since. haven't noticed any additional road noise.

    i still love the car after 4 years and while i would love to have a genesis someday, i really hope this car lasts me another 4 years and 75k miles.
  • oskidunker1oskidunker1 Member Posts: 213
    How much leeway will hyundai give you as far as miles over the 60k? I don't want to have a claim denied if something happend to the transmission or engine sometime before the 100k warranty is over.May not be able to do the 60k until the car has 61k on it later this month.
  • oskidunker1oskidunker1 Member Posts: 213
    More pick up. Less hesitating and irregular idle that was there before. transmission seems smoother. Wonder what was wrong?
  • garym1jgarym1j Member Posts: 46
    edited January 2012
    No problems whatsoever after 37K mile.. Runs like new. Original plan was to replace the car when the waranty runs out (Aug 2012), but due to no-trouble history, will keep the car for 5 more years or major difficulty. I return the car at major service intervals to the Hyundai service department at Brandon, FL. Oil changes only have been accomlplished by local 10 minute oil change places, Seems to be working for me. Love my car.
  • lapasadalapasada Member Posts: 26
    I have 33,257 miles on my 2007 Azera Limited. Last week my remote failed to open my truck.
    I then tried the door switch and it also failed. Any suggestion on what might be the problem?
  • doveman7doveman7 Member Posts: 10
    I'd say pretty good overall. Had some early problem with traction control sensors and had to have dashboard replaced due to cracking around passenger seat airbag but all under warranty. Cupping tires have been a minor irritant. I want perfection but I have been pleased with the Azera. I've done almost none of the major maintenance my dealer has suggested but do change the oil and did some of the 60K recommendations. Fuel filter is a continuing issue of dispute with dealer--they insist it doesn't exist. I change the cabin air filter myself. So, now that I'm approaching the 90K service (I plan ahead!) would appreciate any and all suggestions as to what maintenance items I should have done. I hope to keep this car for several more years as I just got home from driving my 93 year old Mom's 1993 Camry, which runs like a top.
  • jamazerajamazera Member Posts: 149
    check the battery in the remote
  • cobrazeracobrazera Member Posts: 352
    I'm on my 4th new battery on my '06 Azera keyfob. It uses a CR2032 battery. My wife's keyfob is still on the original battery - about equal miles for each of us. There must be some low level leakage in mine, I guess. I just replace it when it goes bad. $8 for 10 batteries delivered to the door, doesn't justify the time and gas to go to the dealer when they wouldn't do any good anyway.
  • lapasadalapasada Member Posts: 26
    I can't believe it's the battery in the keyfod since the switch on the door doesn't open the truck.
    Any other suggestions?
  • jamazerajamazera Member Posts: 149
    there is a valet switch in the glove box......it only lets u open the trunk with a driver's key...still that doesn't explain the other operations for the remote not working check to see if the button in the glove box is depresssed (acitvated)
  • lapasadalapasada Member Posts: 26
    Thank you jamazera, I forgot all about that switch. I canged my cabin filter and must of accidently activated that glove compartment switch to keep valets out of my truck. Tanks for the reminder. Saved me an embarrasement at the dealership. Deactivated the glove compartment switch this morning and everything is not working as it should. Again, thank you for the input. This forum is a life saver in many cases.
  • jamazerajamazera Member Posts: 149
    don't buy yhe factory cabin filter...go to Wally World and get a disposable home a/c filter and cut it to fit....save $20
  • oskidunker1oskidunker1 Member Posts: 213
    Car has 67k. It did this before when the car was under 50k. took it in , got it documented and they could find nothing. Last 3 days when I punch on the freeway to pass someone, the car goes in to neutral. Manually down shifting does not work. I had to pull to the side of the freeway today for a few minutes before it would engage.Felt like I was in a very dangerous situation.

    Have appointment at the dealer tommorrow. Hope they can find the problem this time. Generally occurs first 10 minutes of driving. Have done all the transmission services required by Hyundai and have receipts
  • jamazerajamazera Member Posts: 149
    wow dangerous...torque converter failure???
  • oskidunker1oskidunker1 Member Posts: 213
    edited October 2012
    well car went in today for the 4th time. Hyundai sent an "engineer" to look at the car. Once again being totally reliant on the computer and finding no codes he was unwilling to accept the fact that their is some kind of mechanical failure in this transmission. So I have reopened the Better Business Bureau case and will let an arbitrator decide how dangerous this is and what Hyundai will be forced to do to make the car safe again.

    The 100k waranty seems usless. They could have made me go away by doing SOMETHING, like replacing the throttle positioning sensor but I guess they would rather be hard asses and go through the arbitration process.. Very dissapointing, especially when 3 of my realatives and many customers and friends have bought Hyundai's based on my reccomendation. Next time I will pay the difference and buy an Audi and feel safe in the car.
    The price difference is not all that much anymore so the Azera is not the value it once was. :mad:
  • rmcbainrmcbain Member Posts: 50
    That is unfortunate as I purchased a 2007 Santa Fe in Nov. 07 and had nothing major to do with repairs. The dealership I support changed the carpet as it has an area where the pile had just come out.
    The only warranty work other than the carpet was a driver side headlight that had moisture in it and a wind shied that has a pressure crack at 7000 miles. This has been one of my most trouble free cars.
    PS: On a note regarding the transmission I did have the fluid flushed at 30000 miles and the transmission works better now than when it was new.
    Good luck with your problem. Some dealerships are just not good to deal with as our local dealer is a pain but we service the car in a smaller community and the service is top notch. :)
  • rmcbainrmcbain Member Posts: 50
    We bought the Santa Fe and Azera from a dealership called Withnell Hyundai and they have been like best friends. We recently had a mishap in Lincoln City where some [non-permissible content removed] clown vandalized the car and broke the rear window. We had to drive to Salem to get a replacement and the dealership were most accommodating and had it replaced the same day we took the car in.
    We have had no issues with the transmission in either car.
    :)
  • oskidunker1oskidunker1 Member Posts: 213
    This transmission issue is an easy fix as the dealer mechanic told me. Install a flight recorder in the car and LEAVE it there so it can record the next hicup. Not understanding why they would rather go to arbitration rather than do this unless they real don't want to know what is wrong.
  • oskidunker1oskidunker1 Member Posts: 213
    The car has 70k and is 5 years old. Most articles I have read says change them around 60k. Anyone done this on the 2007?
  • oskidunker1oskidunker1 Member Posts: 213
    The arbitration did not help. They denied my request to leave the flight recorder in the car.The BBB claimed they do not have the authority to tell Hyundai how to evaluate my car.I would not reccommend going to Arbitration if something is wrong. Also, when you buy a new car , you can opt out of having to use Hyundai's arbitration. I would certainly do that to protect your rights. At least I have documented the problem so if something happens to me my wife will have a good chance of winning in court.
  • oskidunker1oskidunker1 Member Posts: 213
    Just had a windshield replaced. Not sure they are still working.
  • rmcbainrmcbain Member Posts: 50
    Hi: The automatic headlight switch is on the left arm of the steering column. The windshield has nothing to do with the auto headlight switch. If you meant the auto windshield washer it is on the right side of the column.
    Hope this helps.
  • oskidunker1oskidunker1 Member Posts: 213
    Sensor, NOT SWITCH.
  • jamazerajamazera Member Posts: 149
    sensor is on dash on the passenger side of the car...check manual
  • rmcbainrmcbain Member Posts: 50
    Well I have had it with Hyundai. I have been taking my 07 Azera in for servicing and suspension noises. I have the struts changed twice as well as the upper control arm was cracked and they replaced it. I was as La Quinta Hyundai in southern California and they replaced the rubber bushings in the control arm to eliminate the squeaking but no the clunking when you drive over any crack in the pavement. They said the car was out of warranty by three months and they would not honour replacement of the struts or the previous repair of the bushings for the control arm. I was a great promoter for Hyundai and now that will no longer be the case. Hyundai knows it has a suspension problem with all the comments in edmunds site and they refuse to resolve it.
    The whole situation at La Quinta Hyundai was a nightmare and would not recommend anyone trying to purchase a new car to stay away from here. This is not how customers should be treated. :lemon: :mad: :sick:
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    Okay...I'm proud to say that I've owned my '06 Azera for the last 7 years and put just over 146k miles on it. I've read all the posts about people complaining about the clunk noise, which I didn't experience until about 80-90k miles. All the years of going to the dealer and having them look at it, not one time did a mechanic ever mention anything about the sway bar bushings. My mechanic told me that sway bar bushings can wear out anywhere between 20-80k miles. So...I am going to order them and have him install them and I'll come back and let you guys know if it resolved the infamous clunk noise or not. I tried to find some silicone aftermarket bushings to no avail, so I will just try to order the best ones I can find.
  • rmcbainrmcbain Member Posts: 50
    Thanks for the update. Well first let me advise that I took the car into La Quinta Hyundai and they just screwed me for 180.00 and no improvement. I then went to Palm Springs Hyundai and after replacing the entire strut snubbers, top strut mount and all bushings the car now is like new or better. It will never be a sports sedan but it was never built to be one. So one thing is for sure that the Palm Springs service department correctly diagnosed the problem and corrected it. $600.00 is a lot cheaper than having to buy a new car to get rid of the noise.
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    Glad to hear you were taken care of, there's a lot of Azera owners who are not and they don't know either. What's even worse is the service depts. aren't explaining all the possibilities either from laziness or just lack of knowledge of their own product.

    Another thing to mention, my mechanic also told me that if you replace the struts, go with the KYB's as they are better tuned for the foriegn cars vs. the Monroe strust which are tuned for the domestic makes. Lastly, he also mentioned that a car of my mileage, I should also consider replacing the strut spring as that could weaken and put more stress on the strut as well. I found the springs online for like $86.

    Maybe you can keep us posted on how long you're able to go noise free now that you've gotten all the components replaced.
  • jamazerajamazera Member Posts: 149
    Allmet

    R U getting the bushings from Hyundai or from a parts store???? How much are they ??? R there only 2 or 4 bushings?? How much labor time is involved??

    Thanks
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    Jamazera...I am ordering my bushings from www.rockauto.com (where I get almost all my parts now). The set I'm ordering is just under $7 and I believe it's only 2 bushings. The labor (from what my mechanic told me) is 2 hours, so I'll be paying $198 to get $7 worth of parts installed. SMDH What can you do? LOL

    Have a happy Easter if you celebrate, if not...have a great weekend!!!
  • jamazerajamazera Member Posts: 149
    thanks...us know..that is an easy fix...happy Easter.......sold my boat and am looking at a '13 Genesis R spec v-6 (not as a replacement for my Azzy)
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    The coupe, right? I test drove those and they are a hoot to drive, but since I commute into DC daily, I prefer to not have my ride be that sporty. :shades:

    I'll be keeping the Azzy for awhile, but I've got my eye on either a V6 Genesis sedan. The only way I would get the V8 is if I got the 5.0 R-Spec.
  • rmcbainrmcbain Member Posts: 50
    We also drove the Genis coupe and found it very small and is no comparison to the full size Gensis sedan. It was rough riding, hard to see out of the rear window and just a general noisey little four cylinder that did not do anything for us.
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    Yeah...I think the 4 banger appeals to the tuner crowd mostly. If I were to get the coupe, it would have to be the V6 version. Nice amount of power and pretty fun to drive, just can't use it as my daily driver. Definitely not to be compared in any way to the sedan. But, if you compare it to the old Tiburon...leaps and bounds better!!! ;)
  • jamazerajamazera Member Posts: 149
    yes the coupe v-6 r-spec or touring 375 hp......8 sp auto
  • jamazerajamazera Member Posts: 149
    yes the coupe v-6 r-spec or touring 375 hp......8 sp auto rated best buy ...consumer reports
  • oskidunker1oskidunker1 Member Posts: 213
    Several Mechanics have told me the belt lasts around 100k. It is regularly inspected and I am told it is fine at 6 years an 83k miles. Anyone replaced them yet?
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    The mechanics are right. I changed my belt around 120k miles myself.
  • oskidunker1oskidunker1 Member Posts: 213

    86,000 miles on this car and still nothing has cost me any money other than $100 for a plastic shield under the car and a battery. Amazing quality.

  • stones_throwstones_throw Member Posts: 1

    Got a question.. I'm a new sales consultant at a dealership and I had a customer interested in an 06 Azera.. could anyone suggest to me a similar vehicle in terms of form, function, and price? Preferably one of the following manufacturers: VW, Subaru, GMC, Chevy, Caddy, or Buick?

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