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Caravan/Voyager Starting and Stalling Problems

124

Comments

  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    If you have not yet figured this one out, please check the fuel pressure and report back if you have any pressure in the system when this condition occurs.

    I have the same problem - it occasionally fails to start, but no problems at all when it does start! I can run it for hundreds and hundreds of miles without incident, but if I shut it off all bets are off as to whether it will restart. I have found that when it does not start, there is no fuel pressure. But, it is difficult to determine what is causing this. I would think that if the pump itself was the issue, it would fail occasionally during use, not just between uses. I am leaning toward an electrical problem, but the circuitry is complicated because it is not just a relay that governs the operation of the pump. I have thus far determined that the controlling relays (fuel pump and ASD relays) are fine, so it is either further down the line or further up it. But, the fuel injectors are receiving signals as though there should be fuel pressure, so I have to conclude that it is most likely an issue closer to the fuel pump.

    I am checking this tonight; if there is no power to the wires at the pump connector, I am going to bypass the normal circuitry and just wire a relay directly to the ignition wires so that the pump operates when the ignition is 'on.'
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    Fixed the problem - it was, indeed, the fuel pump. After that, I could not use my OBD-II reader, as it would not link to the vehicle. I figured that one out, too - a bad fuse (figures!). Anyway, the van runs like a top again, save for the console lights blinking (but does not affect the operation of the buttons). I know I read somewhere about how to get those things to stop doing that, but I cannot remember where. I suspect an owner's manual would state the procedure, but I do not have one.

    213,000 miles and counting....
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    Okay, I found a site that has the answer to this question of blinking lights on the console!

    It is an HVAC calibration process that is required after a battery disconnect:

    http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1i/bl667i.htm
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    And, when there is a problem that occurs during the calibration process, here are what the trouble codes mean:

    HEATER AND AIR CONDITIONING DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTC's)
    DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) DEFINITION/DRB III® DISPLAY
    0 PASSED ALL TESTS
    1 MODE ACTUATOR DID NOT REACH "DEFROST" POSITION
    2 MODE ACTUATOR DID NOT REACH "PANEL" POSITION
    3 BLEND/PASSENGER ACTUATOR DID NOT REACH "COLD" STOP
    4 BLEND/PASSENGER ACTUATOR DID NOT REACH "HOT" STOP
    5 FIN SENSOR "OPEN"
    6 FIN SENSOR "SHORTED"
    7 ZONE/DRIVER ACTUATOR DID NOT REACH "COLD" STOP
    8 ZONE/DRIVER ACTUATOR DID NOT REACH "HOT" STOP
    9 CONTROL MODULE INTERNAL FAILURE

    Note that if a system fails, the intermittent wiper button's light will flash the appropriate number of times, followed by a single flash of the rear wiper button, followed by either the next trouble code or the same code over. Once all codes are read out via flashing, the first code is repeated.

    In my case, codes 5 and 6 appeared, indicating fin sensor "open" (5) and "shorted" (6).
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • pauld2100pauld2100 Member Posts: 5
    Can anyone tell me where the crank shaft position sensor is? And or the automatic shut off down rely is? I see a ASO rely, automatic shut off? anyway same issue it won't even turn over....

    PD
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    The crankshaft position sensor is located on the transmission housing, just aft of the engine. If you pull off the air box (that is bolted to the cross member in front of the engine) as well as the tubes that connect to the throttle body and the air cleaner housing, you can see the sensor one the back side of the transmission housing just behind the engine. It is a little easier to find if you locate the wiring harness that plugs it in and follow it up to the sensor.

    As for the ASD relay, it is the first of the larger black relays in the strip, on the right side top if you are looking at the unit from in front of the vehicle. there is a small 10-amp fuse located directly "above" it, and the fuel pump relay is directly below.

    At least, this is the lay out on the 1998 Caravan - I am not sure what you have or how it is laid out.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • pauld2100pauld2100 Member Posts: 5
    Ok thanks,
    I have a 2003, and the air cleaner is on the passanger side and the trannys on the driver side, so I also had a code PO134 O2 sensor is what it's calling bad... Is that crank sensor on the tranny itself or on the engine?
  • pauld2100pauld2100 Member Posts: 5
    2003 3.3 se btw
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    It is on the bell housing between the engine and transmission (although the housing is part of the transmission). The sensor reads off the pressure plate, which is mounted directly behind the engine and is inside the bell housing.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ilsotb98ilsotb98 Member Posts: 2
    Van is having a hard time starting. Problem just started the last 3 times I went to start van. Gas, Speed and Temp gauges started acting wacky going from left to right and then back again(never done before) and it seemed hesitant to turn over. Now car doesnt really want to start at all. Any advise please????
  • cbwilshacbwilsha Member Posts: 70
    When that exact same thing happened to me, a new battery cured everything.

    C.B.
  • pauld2100pauld2100 Member Posts: 5
    Hi,
    Well I would try cleaning the battery terminals first, then check all the fuses (not to see if they are bad but for a build up of corrosion on them, it will look like a film is on them). if thats doesnt work have it scanned, not code read scan the computer...,.
  • ilsotb98ilsotb98 Member Posts: 2
    I am starting to think too it is my battery. Praying is a better word. It all of a sudden hit me. Some time ago I had purchased an adapter for my ipod that plugs in the lighter. If I left it in it would reset my radio stations as if battery was draining. Well I realized I just started using it again and it has been plugged in since Friday. So when my husband gets home he is going to see if he can charge my battery. I only pray that is the problem. Simple is good. Thanks you very much for the responses!!!! :):)
  • martyszymartyszy Member Posts: 3
    Hello all. I have a 1994 GC AWD with 115k. Runs good starts hard sometimes but my issue is the Climate Control System. It will shift from interior front to the defroster on its own, with the setting button still on interior. Not all the time, but generally when I am going to stop or changing speed. I can hear the door slap shut, and it will switch. Always to the default setting, which is defrost. From any other setting, which is floor/interior, and floor. I have switched out the control unit and the one way valve on the brake booster. There is plenty of suck from the booster/valve, and there are no other leaks in the vacuum system that I can find. I am going to replace the PCV unit today, but I don't think thats it. I hate to think of tearing the whole dash apart and I don't hear any whistles coming from anywhere specific under there. but if anyone has a solution or where a good schematic of the system I will be much appreciated as cold weather is coming!
  • sherylmacsherylmac Member Posts: 1
    I have this similar problem with 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan 104,000 miles. It stalls when coming to a stop - most times in the spot but it occurs more frequently in colder weather. I've already had the mapping sensor replaced, spark plugs/wires, crank sensor, and a valve cleaned out. It never throws a code either...its in the shop again trying to figure it out.
  • darbyajdarbyaj Member Posts: 1
    I just put in a new starter and now it is grinding on the flywheel a little just at the end of the start. It is almost like it is not completely disengaging from the flywheel fast enough once the car is running. What can I do to fix this??
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    It sounds like you forgot to put the shim between the starter and the bell housing back in place.
  • ndissndiss Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 GC that we've had for several months now. Recently it seems as though the battery would not make it through the winter. No big deal. I figured I'd nurse it along until the time to buy one. Anyway, we had no problems until my wife tried to start the van the other day and it started fine, but as soon as the instrument cluster came to life, it quit. She started it again, and it started and then quit again. Two to three times this happened and then it would not turn over. I checked into it when I got home from work and sure enough, nothing. The heater fan works, radio, fuel pump etc. but when I try to start it, not even a click from the starter. Grabbed a battery out of our other car for the heck of it and the same result, would not start. I'd like to think that the battery was it, but it actually started for my wife and then quit right after it started. I'm not sure if this is a computer problem or what. Does anyone have any ideas? I'm not sure where to start looking.
  • morpar1dudemorpar1dude Member Posts: 10
    how hard is it to change plugs on 02 caravan 3.3 what do i need to know.
  • dawzindawzin Member Posts: 1
    edited June 2010
    My husband who has been a mechanic for the past 30yrs has been stumped by my van for the past 3yrs. It would be running fine and out of the blue when you would turn it off then go to turn it back on again it would turn over but would not stay running it would die after only a few seconds, and if you did it to many times it wouldn't even do that. At first if we hit the dash it would start but that even became "hit" or miss. I would have to be careful to watch when starting it, if the odo and PNRD12 didn't come on it would not start. We kept a log of the different things that were clues as to when it might happen.
    Well thanks to all of the ideas everyone has given him he believes he finally found the short. He looked at all the areas people suggested, he found a little carrosion cleaned it up but it still wouldn't start. So he pulled the dash once again, messed with some wires while trying to start the van and found the offending wire. There was a pin that had a crack all the way around it, he resoldered it and now no matter how much he messed with the wire it did not die.
    Thank you very much for all your help. We have a long trip planned for later this summer and the 6 of us would not fit in my husbands truck for the 16hr drive. You saved my vacation home for the first time in over 10 years!!!!
    THANK YOU!!!!
  • fildrillfildrill Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have an 07 caracrap, er I mean caravan with the same-no start-appears to be in R even though I know I'm in P- problem. Was it your neutral safety switch?

    Thanks,
    Phil
    fildrill@yahoo.com
  • bigike1bigike1 Member Posts: 2
    Here is my problem

    I have a 2001 grand caravan 3.3L V6.

    The van started stalling and check engine light came on. Codes read:

    P0106-MAP sensor has a baro reading below an acceptable value.

    p1496-5 volt output from regulator does not meet minimum requirement.

    garage changed MAP sensor and after a long ride same problem stalling and check engine light. this time a new code came up along with the same two above:

    p0122- throttle position sensor input below the minimum acceptable voltage

    Took van back to garage, they said they tested the 5 volt supply it was fine but after an extended warm up tested it again and the readings were low. they said i needed a new PCM. they would charge $805, i found a rebuilt PCM for $275 and replaced myself.

    Same thing, after a long drive check engine light comes on and spits out the same codes.

    Can anyone help?

    thanks in advance
    Michael
  • slantsixnessslantsixness Member Posts: 2
    :confuse: I have a problem on a 96 3.3L Caravan (156K miles). It will always start, run, drive etc, but after about 20 minutes driving (and only on the way home after work), it will stall, or act like it will stall. If I erase the totally bogus Error codes (how many times do they think I'm going to replace the EGR solenoid, or MAP sensor for no reason?) anyway... the Engine light may or may not come back on again whenever it tries to stall. (I have a few tricks to keep it running: shift into 3rd, feather the gas pedal, pray, curse, but none of that really helps!)
    I erase the codes again, and it will go for a few days with no codes whatsoever but still try to stall or occasionally stall. I have changed the Crank and Cam sensors, Coil pack, Fuel filter, Map Sensor, removed the knock sensor. About a year ago the van died completely and I bought a brand new ECM (ouch) and shelled out more money than the van was worth to get it "programmed for optimal operation" (I think they did nothing at all, as it ran no different when I installed it, and after I got it back from the dealer it runs exactly the same... which is Perfect, except for this mystery stalling, which it did before the original ECM went bad.)
    The only thing I can say is it takes approximately 20 minutes of highway driving, and then it just feels like the ignition cuts out. then, if it recovers and doesn't stall, it shifts differently, like it wants to stall again, for the next 10 minutes, which is when I get home and park the van for the night. occasionally it will throw a code, but not usually. This month, it's been the EGR solenoid code, last month it was "no communicartions to BCM". Arrgghh! (no it ISN'T a loose connection. I have checked that too, or at least traced just about everwire in the harness.)
    The only thing I can say, is it only happens on the trip home, after 20 minutes, and then I shudder when the van shudders, thinking that this is the day the ECM dies again... I love the old van, but I have looked everywhere for an answer, idea, clue...whatever I can find. I have resolved to just clear the fake codes (god knows these vans are full of erroneous fault codes), clean it up and throw it on craigslist for whatever I can get (maybe $1K?) and be done with it.
    Oh, and I've fixed the intermittent/ cracked grounds in the instrument cluster, the ghost wipers, the faulty alarm no start red wire problem, 2 clocksprings (1 under warranty), the corroded fuse box connectors (which I check every year), well... lets just say I've pretty much done everything but sell it. (LOL!)

    Things I have never tried:
    Flexplate (but the Crank and Cam signals alway stay in sync, and there are no unusual noises)
    Fuel pump. (Which was changed long ago, for the sending unit "ding ding" problems)
    Transmission. (never had a minute's trouble, shifts normally, does not overheat, correct ATF+4 fluid always, etc..)

    This is the only thread ever, anywhere that I have found people with so very similar issues. So... what should I do next? (and getting another Caravan/Voyager/Town and Country is not out of the question, since I have all these perfectly good spare parts, why not?!)
    :D
  • junkydodgejunkydodge Member Posts: 1
    I'm having the same problem and have done the exact same thing as you to fix the issue and nothing has worked. Did you ever get it fixed. Any help would be appretiated.
  • bigike1bigike1 Member Posts: 2
    I have not found a solution yet......how about you?
  • marytmanningmarytmanning Member Posts: 8
    I have replaced almost everything there is to replace except the engine.
    I have so much money invested I can not get rid of this stupid thing:) I will never have another Dodge car,van,truck:)
    Good luck.
  • mrpackratmrpackrat Member Posts: 1
    I have a cure for some of ya'll.. I just fixed a 98 3.3 voyager that had a dying problem. It would work good cold, but when warmed up it would die on the road, after a short while it would start again and run for a little while, I replaced the fuel filter, and fuel pump-no help, then replaced the coil pack and when I shut the hood it would die?? So I left the key on and moved wires around and found that the connector that runs the coil pack, injectors and map sensor was up against the exhaust and was not making a good connection inside the plug(plug is about 2 inches flat with double stacked wires-black in color), fixed that and this van is back on the road..I know this does not fix all of the problems on here, but might help someone..
  • randy6694randy6694 Member Posts: 1
    i am having the same problem with my 2004 grand caravan with the exact problems as post 179. can any one tell me were in the dash to start looking for the cracked pin. please help i am in a real bind. thanks
  • slantsixnessslantsixness Member Posts: 2
    Problem solved: sort of... the bulk of the problems on my van (160+K now) were resolved with replacing the catalytic converter. It made perfect sense, after a fasion... my Van would run just fine for about 20 to 30 minutes, then get progressively worse at stalling and shutting off. Kept getting erroneous EGR codes (clear them and it would go away for a few weeks then reappear)... and the EGR valve was "new" a year ago... nonetheless, after replacing the CAT...everything has been fine, until last saturday when I sold the van for MPG reasons... I just can't pay $4 a gallon and drive a 15 year old van that got 22mpg on the highway (3.3l shorty caravan).
    @ DAWZIN:here's your fix! remove the instrument cluster. Once removed, the entire circuit board on the back is made of flexible mylar. there are points (pins) that are soldered to this circuit. look closely at them, you will see more than one that has fractured solder connections. Re-solder these, or just resolder them all and the problem will go away. If you are not knowledgable about soldering static sensitive devices and practices, find someone who is. These pins connecto to other components in the cluster that can be damaged by excessive heat or static electricity. So, be careful with what you do. Unfortunately I don't have a picture of your Cluster or I could point it out in seconds, but it should be easy to find, or just re-solder/re-work the whole ribbon circuit and you'll be good to go indefinitely. While the cluster is out, you can also replace those pesky instrumane panel lights, maybe spend a few bucks and just replace them or they'll go bad a week later (murphy's law). Good luck.
  • milan4milan4 Member Posts: 2
    IT HAPEN 4 TIMES , I WENT TO STORE I PARK CAR , COME BACK, VAN NOT STARTING, JUST SMALL CLICK, AFTER 5 MINUTES IT STARTS, LAST TIME STARTS 2 WEEKS AGO, I WAS IN SEARS SERVICE, THEY SAY IS THE STARTER,, OK I CHANGE NEW STARTER MY SELF, AGAIN NO START,, NO CODE ON ODB, BUT FEILED EMMISION TEST ON ODB, 2 DAYS AGO I CHANGE IGNITION SAFETY SWITCH,. AGAIN SAME SOUND, SMALL CLICK, BATTERY IS OK, CABLES OK, FULL OF GAS IN TANK,, MAYBE IS NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH?? ANYBODY KNOW,, THANK YOU.
  • milan4milan4 Member Posts: 2
    edited September 2011
    i have 2006 sxt 3.3 , it start about 4-5 times after i drove i park after i truing to start no start, only small click, i change starter- nothing, i change ignition starter switch-- nothing, maybe : neutral safety switch, did anibody have idea?
    also no code on OBD test
  • delzorrodelzorro Member Posts: 2
    This is a great site, not to jinx myself but i followed up an idea on how to fix the dash guages, i thought it was great. I smacked my dash and all the instruments came back on have have worked since, my ac blower sometimes is a bit hesitant to start, but nothing a quick whack doesn't cure. Now i am on the issue of my vehicle stalling.
  • delzorrodelzorro Member Posts: 2
    did you get it fixed, its not the pump or the filter, i can vouch for that! someone else posted that the connectors for the map sensor injectors n coil pack sitting next to the manifold needed manipulating n moved worked on his.
  • dennisthetigerdennisthetiger Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1998 Ply G/Voy, 200K Miles on it, and it is not starting at this point.

    Over the past couple of days, I would be driving down the road, and suddenly the van would think it had no fuel - fuel gauge drops to empty, fuel light comes on, and no fuel is going to the engine - then it picks up again. As my driving progresses, it happens with more frequency until I have to stop for a few minutes and let it rest - then it picks up again. This was Friday afternoon; Saturday morning, worked fine until the evening - and the same thing.

    Today, it happened again - except now, the fuel pump is DEAD. I checked by turning the key and not hearing the characteristic sound of the fuel pump engaging briefly. Likewise, the fuel gauge is empty.

    One point of note - I *just* had the fuel pump replaced back in May.

    Any ideas on what's going on? Are there other symptoms to check for?
  • greatbear67greatbear67 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I to have a 1997 Dodge Grand Caravan that starts and doesn't stay running. It also has the Anti-Theft system like your vehicle. How is it running still, and where exactly is this red wire you are referring to at? Hope you get this and are able to help. Thank you. Question? When you would go to start the van up, did your instrument panel ( odometer, tach, etc..) light up at all? When mine didn't light up, or work, I knew it wasn't going to stay running.
  • dennisthetigerdennisthetiger Member Posts: 3
    OK, found the problem here. The issue is a loose connector for the wiring harness to the fuel pump under the car. My mechanic says he can replace it for the cost of an hour's labor, and this guy says he can do it better than the locking molex that connects the thing to power and the BCM.

    Well, OK, it's either that or I have Firestone do it: $1300 for the wiring harness ALONE, plus the cost of labor (involves removing the ENTIRE dashboard to get it all).
  • dennisthetigerdennisthetiger Member Posts: 3
    Additional note - last symptoms are that it will get up to normal operating temperature before stalling out totally. By wiggling the connector, I can make it run - just don't know for how long though. Hopefully long enough to get 'er to the shop. =)
  • 123booger123booger Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem. it was both my O2 sensor. and my IAC idle air control.
  • valeriepredvaleriepred Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 voyager that keeps wanting to stall and buck.We have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter and other stuff and its still doing it.Now the battery light is on so we get a new battery but light is still on and van is still stalling and bucking.Today it stalled and would not start got a boost it started but really tried stalling then when I pulled over the dash gauges started going crazy and no power even the radio is dead.I really need an answer how to fix this as I have a 1 year old granddaughter who is fighting cancer and I need to get back and forth to the hospital somebody please tell me how to fix it. Thanks
  • bnsnrst55bnsnrst55 Member Posts: 7
    :confuse: :) MY wifes van developed a intermittent misfire at 2nd or 3rd gear. We would put it in neutral and rev the gas, this would temporarily ease the problem. This particular problem was mild and progressively got worse. The codes read a multifunction misfire. We replaced spark plugs and wires, fuel filter, map sensor, cam position sensor, crank sensor, throttle position sensor and coil pack. All connectors are brand new and dry. Our vans problem is still there. I am scratching my head and so are the techinicians I work with. We are at a dead end. The codes this morning now read 11, 37. It seems to be throwing multiple codes at different times. Is there any other avenues we could look at?
  • mikec27mikec27 Member Posts: 3
    Hello I have a 96 caravan that starts then shuts down after 5 seconds. I have ran the codes and they say po736 reverse incorrect ratio, p1768 relays always off(stuck open). Does anyone have any direction in which to go to fix these problems or a web site that can help. Thanks
  • carbuf1carbuf1 Member Posts: 9
    I have a 98 voyager that wont start. I have traced it down to no power is getting to the fuel pump. The only connector under the van is the one that connects directly to the fuel pump. Can you be more specific as to where the connector on your van is that is causing you trouble?
  • bnsnrst55bnsnrst55 Member Posts: 7
    sounds like autoshut down relay or fuel pump relay or fuel pump
    ebenson@hondaofsalem.com 503-581-7785
  • sda2sda2 Member Posts: 1
    If no instrument lights work try this. (starts and then stalls also) Push the panel around the instrument cluster or strike the dash above the panel. If it then runs fine the problem is loose contacts where on the panels connecting pins (4 I think) To fix takes about 30-40 minutes. Disconnect battery. Remove dash around panel. Remove panel and sand contact pins. Reverse.
  • bnsnrst55bnsnrst55 Member Posts: 7
    Our problem turned out to be the crank shaft. :sick: In the shop now being repaired.
  • jfrankha112jfrankha112 Member Posts: 8
    Did the Crank shaft fix problem
  • bnsnrst55bnsnrst55 Member Posts: 7
    No it did not. What fixed the problem was replacing the sensors. If you are having a stumble, misfire, stalling (our original problem) replace the sensors one at a time. This is a must do: After each sensor that is replaced, clear the "adaptive learn" from the computer, by disconnecting the battery, turn ignition on, headlights on, hold brake pedal down all at the same time for 5 minutes. This will clear all the compastors from the computer erasing all bad memory and trouble codes. Hook the battery back up and start it up. If you choose to replace a sensor use a factory part NOT an after market part. These vans do not like after market parts. I wonder how may owners of these vans know about this "Adaptive Learn" step. A $1000.00 lesson we learned. :blush:
  • bnsnrst55bnsnrst55 Member Posts: 7
    The crank shaft was not the problem. It did have a problem with the crank shaft but the misfires, stumble, stalling was the sensors. After replacing every possible part on our van engine it still did not run. Still had the original problem. We limped it back to the shop today. frustrated and out of money. The owner asked if we "cleared the adaptive memory". When you put in a major part you must clear the memory of the bad codes or else the computer will remember the old (bad) codes and continue running with those codes. $1000.00 lesson we learned. Simple process: unhook the battery, turn the ignition on, turn on lights and push down on the brake pedal and hold for 5 minutes. This clears all the bad codes from the computer. Now the computer can recognize/relearn the new part. :blush: We had a very expensive "DUH MOMENT".
  • ranzackranzack Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever find a solution..... I think it's like finding a needle in a haystack.... we purchased an 04 DGC used back this summer and just this week it started stalling while driving down the road. I've had it to the shop twice and they say they can replicate it and the computer hasn't left any info.... Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated....

    Thanks,
    Ranzack
  • bnsnrst55bnsnrst55 Member Posts: 7
    Our problem was clearing the Adaptive memory after replacing a major part . We did not know this ($1000.00 step). We replaced the Map, Cam, Crank sensors, one at a time with out clearing this memory so our problem was always there. All you can do is start here.

    If you are mechanically inclined, then one at a time replace the Map, Cam, Crank sensors. After each installment clear the Adaptive Learn out of the engine computer. Use OEM parts, not after market. You can always return them if they are not the problem.

    Our alternator was going out on our van at the same time as our problems began so it was throwing weird codes. Be careful of dealerships, they have a tendancy to go for the most expensive part first. Like the main engine computer at several hundreds of dollars. Then they work down from there.
    Collectively between my wife and I we have 10years at a Chrysler Dealership Service department. We know there tricks and yes the TV documentary was right. :D
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