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Caravan/Voyager Starting and Stalling Problems

245

Comments

  • jakebrake1jakebrake1 Member Posts: 2
    when we start out from a stop {red light, stop sign etc...}, or highway speed the van will hesitate if we push on the accelerator more the problem goes away, almost seems like it wants to stall, any ideas would be great as to what is going on. and it is a 2003 model year, with a 4 banger
  • rpolchinrpolchin Member Posts: 2
    I have a '93 Voyager. Recently the car started stalling while idling in traffic. I originally thought I had run out of gas, but that wasn't the case. I changed the fuel filter , but that didn't solve the problem. The car won't restart after it stalls, unless I either wait awhile. I've found that if I remove the key from the ignition, and then go back in to re-start, it will start right away. The stalling starts after the car is well warmed up.

    Separately, or maybe not, my transmission won't work in Drive anymore, but I can get it to run in Rev or in the 1 position only. In First only, it doesn't shift to 2 and 3, so it doesn't appear to be a position problem.

    Any ideas?

    Bob
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Not sure about the transmission, but the stalling could be related to a faulty mass airflow sensor. I had a problem similar to this in a '96 Subaru. It would never record a code when this happened (though the CEL would illuminate), but I changed the MAS on a hunch and never experienced a stall again.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • kychikidskychikids Member Posts: 1
    Our family has a '91 Plymouth Voyager (3.0 engine with 120,000 miles) that runs perfectly but has begun to be very difficult to start.

    We've had three mechanics look at it ~ We've replaced the computer, most sensors, and the fuel pump (shows 60 pounds of pressure).

    The electronic tester says the problem is a code 26, which no one seems to know the meaning of.

    We really love this old van and want to get the problem worked out ~ Does anyone out there have any ideas or advice?

    e-mail: dona at 4littlefeet@bowlinggreen.net
  • johnc21johnc21 Member Posts: 1
    I'm having the same problem ... did you find out what the issue is/was? thanks, john c.
  • rpolchinrpolchin Member Posts: 2
    I didn't get that far. I think I overfilled the transmission fluid which caused the 2nd and 3rd gears to fail. I'm not going to bother getting the transmission fixed on such an old car. I changed the filter and replaced the fluid to the right level, but to no avail. My next choice would have been to check the speed sensor.

    You can get the trouble codes by turning your key in the ignition 3 times. so off-on-off-on off on (without turning the car over) the engine light will blink. a sequence of blinks, a pause then miore blinks. so 3 blinks followed by 2 blinks is code 32.
  • jdanleyjdanley Member Posts: 2
    This may be a little late to help you, but hopefully it can help someone. My van was stalling when I'd come to a stop. Thought I'd gotten bad gas. Mechanic thought so as well since the plugs smelled rancid and they had tried replacing a number of sensors. Had recently replaced the Oxygen Sensor...check engine light had been coming on. Now however, the light was not coming on and no codes were showing up in the computer according to the mechanic so they chose to replace the fuel pump, filters and scrub the tank....$700 later and the van was still dying. They replaced the oxygen sensor and it is no longer dying, but is still running a little rough.
  • moparman4gzuzmoparman4gzuz Member Posts: 1
    My 1990 Voyager with a 3.3 litre motor has an intermittant starting problem. Occasionally it will not start (turns over fine), if you squirt starting fluid in the intake, it starts for as long as the fluid lasts, then dies. If you leave it for a few hours, it will then start up fine. I had it towed to a shop and they could not find a thing wrong as it would not act up there (go figure). Has anyone had this problem?
  • marytmanningmarytmanning Member Posts: 8
    I have a 1997 dodge caravan sport.It will start but it's like someone is stealing it.It runs for a couple of sec. then shuts down. It's been in several shops and had work done and sensors put in but every couple of weeks this happens.Some times it's hours and this time it's been 5 days.help.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Have you had the fuel pump and fuel filter looked at?
  • marytmanningmarytmanning Member Posts: 8
    Yes, also the starting censor.
    New fuel and filter.
    It will run and start like brand new for a couple of weeks then it wont do anything but run for a couple of sec.
    No lights on dash show.ligts,radio,heat everything will work except the gas gage,oil light.etc.
    Then it shuts down.
  • jdanleyjdanley Member Posts: 2
    How about they Oxygen Sensor (check engine light would likely be on) or the Mass Airflow Sensor? Does the outside air temp or humidity make a difference? I recently had issues with my '94 Caravan and they replaced a number of things before replacing the Mass Airflow Sensor. It still isn't running smoothly, but is at least not dying everytime I brake.
  • upnrunninupnrunnin Member Posts: 7
    It was a nice hot summer. As a result, I had no starting problems with my 1997 voyager. Now the cold damp weather is back and its a matter of time before I turn the key, and nothing happens. Or it shuts down while driving. P.O.S!!!
    Hey, its a great car when it runs.
    This is a sensor problem but the issue is in the wiring. My plan is to start at the computer and follow the wires to the crank sensor, cam sensor, and coil. Good luck if you can find a mecanic willing to do this. I hard wired these sensors and it worked (in dry weather). There must be a wiring/ground issue and it will take patience to find it.

    So - my advice, since you have replaced the crank sensor, then either remove the connector and hard wire it or cram the connector full of that electrical grease and reconnect. I tried this but it didn't last.
  • bteclawbteclaw Member Posts: 2
    My '04 GC SXT 3.8L with 95K miles runs well, but idles a little rough when in gear. Now, after I fill the gas tank, the van will stall when coming to a stop right after leaving the gas station. It re-starts and runs OK until the next fill-up. Then it stall one time right after a fill-up. I'm not getting any check-engine lights or engine codes. Any suggestions on how to solve this problem would be greatly appreciated.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    It sort of sounds like your Evap System is either a bit hosed up or you are over-filling your tank. After the fuel nozzle automatically shuts off, do you "milk" it a little more?

    Best Regards.
    Shipo
  • bobber2bobber2 Member Posts: 2
    Hi every one!! I jsut bought a new 2007 Dodge Caravan SXT in late Oct. I have one problem that has only happened 4 times. When you drive it and say you stop at a store, put it in park, shut the key off and pull it out, lock it up and leave it....Fine so far, but when you come back and try to start it, it will not start?? Turning the key on, the dash lights up but the "PRNDL" shows that it is in "R" reverse and off coarse it will not turn over. Moving the shift lever, you can get the it to move through R-N-D-2 only, it will not show P or L?? We can put it into Neutral at this point to start the vehicle and drive away normally and the next time you stop and start it again it's fine?? Now I know we are putting it in park because you can't pull the key out unless it is park or neutral??

    Has anyone ever seen or heard of this problem? I want to take it back to the dealer, but I know they are not going to find anything wrong unless it happens right there and then!! Like I say it has only happened 4 times so far and is more that likely to happen again, but we all know that things like this don't happen when you want them to!!

    Thanks for any help!! Sorry if I have posted in the wrong place!!
  • kuberr4kuberr4 Member Posts: 6
    The other day my dad was on his way home and hit a deer with his 99 Dodge Grand Caravan, we decided that we would fix the damage ourselves since it wasn't too extensive. We had the damage fixed in a couple days, replacing the radiator, hood, side fender, air filter system, and the support that sits above the radiator, and it looks decent but won't start.......does anyone have any ideas? We've replaced the battery, and when the key is turned you can hear clicking in the fuse panel but the engine does not turn.....
  • bobber2bobber2 Member Posts: 2
    I had it in to have the computer reflashed and they did not do it...seems they have found some problem and have to order some module for my van. When that comes in they will call and setup a new appointment. At that time they will also reflash!!
  • latllatl Member Posts: 1
    Wolv,
    Did you ever get this issue resolved? It's just that I have a 2005 SE with the exact same problem, I just did a tune up and seems to me that is getting progressively worse.
    Thanks!
    Luis.
  • marytmanningmarytmanning Member Posts: 8
    I am not sure if the problem is fixed or not but since I disconnected the anti thief device,it has started.
    I have had this van at the dodge dealer and it hooked up to the machine that tells what is wrong and it comes back nothing wrong.
    When it doesn't run the anti theif light comes on and the van will run for a couple of min.then it dies right out as if someone is trying to steal it.
    the Anti Theif divice is a add on and did not come with the van.I took the wire off that was wired into the fuse and as soon as I did that it started.
    i sure hope this has helped you because this is driving me nuts.
  • bubba33bubba33 Member Posts: 2
  • bubba33bubba33 Member Posts: 2
    Our 1990 Voyager will not start when it gets cold outside. There is no error message coming up. I simply will not start. The garage has scanned it but can't find anything wrong.

    Any ideas?
  • crydercryder Member Posts: 1
    I have the same van, engine size and all. The problem sound just like my problem right now. I have gone through all the electrical did not find a problem. It is cranking but it will not start. Did you solve your problem and what did you do to solve it?

    Thanks
    Craig
  • marytmanningmarytmanning Member Posts: 8
    I did fix my starting problem myself.
    It had been to the dealer and hooked up to the tester.They could not find the problem but I noticed it would run for a couple of seconds and nothing on the dash would lite up.
    Message would pop up saying Anti-Thieft.
    I thought that sounds as if there is something wrong with the Anti-thief system that was a add on and not put on by the manufactor.
    I disconected the (red wire) that was going into a fuse so far no problem it has started and stayed .
    I sure hope this might help you.
  • cobra_joecobra_joe Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 3.3 V6 with a cold start problem (175,000 miles) . Cranks over fine but when cold I must pump the pedal or the engine will not fire. Once started cold, I must feather the pedal to keep it running for less than a minute or it stalls. After a minute or so, the engine runs a little rough (skipping/miss-firing?) for 2-3 more minutes then runs great.
    -
    This is where is gets weird. If below freezing, when the motor is stone cold, it starts right up and idles fine without touching the pedal!?!?
    -
    Also, after 15-20 miles, the check engine light comes on but it continues to run great and the engine will start/stop without any problems at all.
    -
    Leave it in the cold for a few hours (35-50 degrees) and you must pump the pedal or it just cranks.
    -
    I cleaned the Idle Air Control unit, Oxygen Sensor, replaced the intake manifold gaskets, fixed vacuum leaks, installed new plugs & wires, cleaned and oiled the K&N filter, replaced the coil / ignition pack, fuel pump, installed a new battery and tested fuel pressure.

    It now runs great but the identical cold start problem persists.
    -
    I have had this vehicle for 2 years and this problem has persisted. During the summer months (65 degrees +) the problem seems to dissipate.
    -
    During these cold New England winters, if I leave the vehicle outdoors (sub 35 degrees) for several hours, it starts right up (no pedal) and runs fine. However, I garage the Van in 40-50 degree garage overnight and every morning I must pump the pedal or it just cranks. It then miss-fires for a couple of minutes and then runs just fine.
    -
    Also, I check my fuel mileage on every tank and it's always around 16 mpg around town and can climb to 20 on long highway trips. Also, it does not burn a drop of oil and the plugs burn very clean.
    -
    It NEVER stalls once warm and it ALWAYS cranks over. The check engine light faithfully comes on after 15-20 miles of highway driving.
    -
    I have had several mechanics look at it and it has stumped them all.
    -
    Any ideas (particularly inexpensive ones) would be greatly appreciated
    -
    Thanks,

    Joe

    cobra_joe_s@hotmail.com
  • kuberr4kuberr4 Member Posts: 6
    I'm not sure, but it could be the Throttle positioning sensor, my 92 ranger acts similarly but by your description possibly worse, and i am in the process of trying to replace it myself, based on some research i've done this problem makes sense for my vehicle and sounds like it could be a possible candidate for your issues,
  • jsaldana54jsaldana54 Member Posts: 1
    I have a voyager minivan that would stall out at any time. I have been stranded on the highway one too many times. Talking with engineers at Chrysler HQ, I was to check the grounding of the electrical system. Second, I was to check the PDC (power dist. center for loose, broken or corroded wires). I took off my battery and removed 2 screws and rotated the PDC over to see the wiring harnesses. After an hour of checking each wire in each harness, I found one wire that was corroded and loose. After cleaning and re attaching that one wire, I have NOT had any more troubles with stalling. This is probably just one of many fixes that could be your problem. Good luck.........
  • tonyetonye Member Posts: 10
    Have a 1995 6 cyl 3.0 L base Caravan with 55,000 carefully selected miles ( moms car)

    Problems stared a month ago with intermittent check engine light/rough running. Mechanic replaced O2 sensor based on code.
    Intermittent check engine light/rough continued.
    Several trips to mechanic resulted in "dunno" as problem would not manifest itself.. ( thought it was the wife at this point)
    They replaced ECM cuz problem finally appeared for mechanics and when tapping on ECM the check engine light would go away.
    Problem returned, same error code and mechanic went with fuel injector cleaner.
    Chec engine light did not appear but then out of know where engine just would die, luckily at gradual aceleration from a stop (engine was warm, no check engine light warnings on some occasions).

    Mechanics went back to schematics and checked wiring and unable to find anything.

    Problem with unexpected engine loss went away for a few days but then returned, and persisted for several start/stop iterations. Luckily it was right after Carmax inspected and wrote offer for $750.

    Let it sit for an hour and engine loss after start returns. Note, it stays running if I keep rpms up, not around idle speed.

    My guess is:

    The vehicle has a "Micro-lock" anti theft device that is for ignition cutoff at start that I suspect may not be malfunctioning. Problem is I can't find boo on the company via Internet or local dealer that has schematics.

    100k question now is:

    What do you think? Any suggestions welcome!
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    You might also want to be looking for a vacuum leak. If too much air is getting, it will snuff the van out at low RPMs.

    Keep us posted.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • tonyetonye Member Posts: 10
    Thanks..those can be worse then electrical.. but I'll go back to the tubes and hoses...
  • jpfjpf Member Posts: 496
    How about ignition wires? Are they original? That could be a problem. Just a guess. Good luck.
  • tonyetonye Member Posts: 10
    Original for now.. gotta bad feeling that I may be replacing something.. thanks!
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Even though you state that the battery is good, I suspect that's the source of your problems.

    Keep us posted.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • kmk1955kmk1955 Member Posts: 1
    After having a new transmission installed in our '98 Voyager: the car suddenly stopped running in traffic. It will turn over once then nothing. The battery & fuses are good. The relay in the fuse block under the hood "clicks". The starter motor is less than 3yrs. old. 3.3L engine, automatic.
  • martyszymartyszy Member Posts: 3
    I purchased a 1994 GC AWD with 96k on the odo on 12/30/2006. The job market sucks so bad in the Berkshires of Massachusetts that I am delivering pizza, although I did take home $600 last week. I have put probably 9k miles on it since I started delivering the pies, and there was a night of 2 foot deep puddles that triggered a check engine light , and I reset the Ignition fuse and it went away.I replaced the plugs with Iridium non-gappable plugs, new wires, change the oil very regularly, and am done lots of timing belts, brakes ect. It just died as I was in the middle of a pizza delivery. I attempted to restart it, and it would just barely idle. I removed the ignition fuse to reset the computer, and it started right up. It then went maybe 200 yards down the road and then died and would not start. I opened the Shrader valve on the fuel rail and there was fuel. The battery is fine as I have a digital voltage gauge. Ignition module, ECM,VSS,TPS, ?? I have a scantool but it in only good for 95 and up. I have it at a garage now and hopefully they will get it fixed but from what I have read in this forum it may not be as simple as replacing a sensor.I need it for work. Any info will be appreciated.
  • solosigma91solosigma91 Member Posts: 2
    1999 Voyager; dragging cold t starts;quick immediate starts thereafterMy Voyager turns over rapidly but won't catch on cold starts.Its like i need to step on the gas when starting. It's a fuel injection so i shouldn't have to step on the gas to start it righ? I thought it was the started but it starts right on the second start. Then after that it will turn over perfectly while its warm. But if I let it sit for like an hour or so and try it again. I get slow a dragging start again like it's not getting fuel or something. Can anyone give me any advice?
  • solosigma91solosigma91 Member Posts: 2
    i had it put on the diagnostic and found out it was my fuel pump,
  • crazy12crazy12 Member Posts: 1
    3.3 l 6 cyl replaced heads up gaskets and a couple of idle sensors. now it seems to just start bucking and the speedometer goes hare wire some times stalling as soon as i get near 20 miles of driving time. sometimes i have to wait about 10 - 15 min before it starts again. right now the codes are 12 and 32 just seems it starts to act up when something gets hot and not sure what it is any ideas??? :confuse: :mad: :cry: riding close to home it run great but i work 25 miles away so you know how nervous a ride it has become
  • knobs1knobs1 Member Posts: 1
    My 98 caravan refuses to turn over. Problems began after replacing the AC compressor. First, erratic starting-I had to turn the key a couple of times before the starter would kick in. A few weeks and momentary stalls began, lasting for about one second, but never stalling out totally. One day it just refused to turn over, period. The auto shutdown relay chatters. The starter was replaced with no change.
    A thorough inspection of the wiring revealed nothing remarkable. I was told the computer has nothing to do with the initial starting function, and the problem was probably the ignition switch, the neutral safety switch, etc. Without a wiring diagram
    I'm stuck. Any ideas on what I should look for? Thanks up front, Tom
  • sumsmumsumsmum Member Posts: 4
    A couple of months ago, I started up my Voyager and it stalled when I started to put it in gear. This happened several times, and then it just stopped doing anything: clicking, turning over, nada. I had to have friends help me push it back into my parking spot (I had let it drift back a bit), and it started right away. I've had no problems since, until the same thing yesterday, except I did not have to put it in gear for the stalling to happen. It did not start up when I retried later, but today when I caught a ride out, it started right up.
    Any ideas? My mechanic is stumped and it not the type to just start putting things in and charging without knowing if he will fix it.
  • jpfjpf Member Posts: 496
    Just a guess, but sounds like your ignition switch (where you put your key into the ignition). Have your mechanic take a look at it. Good luck.
  • shawtylo08shawtylo08 Member Posts: 1
    My 1996 Plymouth Voyager has a bad MAP sensor and I want to know how long will my car run with a bad MAP sensor. It has only been 2 days since I was told that I have a bad map system and my car has not stalled or stopped.
  • danutdlpdanutdlp Member Posts: 2
    Hi there. I have a 1995 dodge caravan, that has been having an issue lately. When i come to a stop and wait at a red light, the van will be in drive and I will have my foot on the brake. After about 5 seconds of being stopped, the engine starts to surge up and down, and after about 4 times surging up and down it will die. If I stick it in neutral or park the engine will balance out and be fine. It only happens when it is in reverse or drive and I am stopped. While I drive I have no problems. I had a compression check on the cylinders and they are running great. I also had the timing ajusted and the throttle positioning sensor replaced. I also put in a fuel injector cleaner about 200 miles ago and that still didn't change anything. Last thing I did, I replaced the Idle Control motor. It still does it and I don't know what else it can be. Has this happened to anybody else? And what could it be?

    Thanks
  • caravanaholiccaravanaholic Member Posts: 3
    WOW... sounds like a similar problem that I'm fighting right now in a 2002 Grand Caravan. It's got 105K miles and dies at stop lights, going around corners and sputters when you put it in reverse. In neutral, the car maintains a constant 1000 RPM. Slide it in drive and apply throttle and it sputters (light surge and bucking) and then stall.

    It's been in the shop (local shade tree mechanic with 30+ years under the hood) and he's baffled. He's gone thru extensive diagontics and replaced thermostat and manifold pressure sensors.

    It's tempermental and does not act up when he's chasing the problem. So, I'm open to anyone that's solved this mystery. It's been acting up since mid May. Otherwise, it's a solid van.
  • virtue040208virtue040208 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2002 chrysler voyager that just stalled in the middle of traffic and wont start the engine turns over the light the horn everything works but it just will not crank :confuse: please help.
  • sumsmumsumsmum Member Posts: 4
    I saw your posting and went out to look at my fuse box, but could not identify an anti theft fuse. Was it labelled?
  • alpineptalpinept Member Posts: 4
    i have the same problem...it started about a year ago. i replaced the BCM and it was not the problem...i got mad at the van one day and with the key left in the start position i "banged on the dash above the control panel.....the dash lights came on and it started working again. The van has done this several times and each time i hit it and it starts working again....until this last time and it no longer will come on. I knew this would happen one day...i only hoped someone would figure the solution before now. i read an old message on this site and someone suggested the park-neutral-safety switch has a bad connection. I think it has something to do with the alarm system.
  • badlegvancebadlegvance Member Posts: 1
    Got a 2003 Chrysler voyager parked it at the airport for 3 days when i returned it would not start! I checked everything out in the parking deck for loose connections etc. I just so happened to of pulled the entire fuse box located on the drivers side fender and the bottom of it was severely corroded. cleaned it up the best I could the van started right up. My buddy works for chrysler and he told me they are having problems with those corroding around 70,000 miles causing the vans to not start and confusing everyone with bogus codes. So I replaced it with a new fuse box cost me 375.00 and have not even had a slight hint of a problem. most garages will try to tell you the Pcm is bad try pulling the entire fuse pannel and check the connections on the bottom first if they are corroded that is your problem
  • pqxraypqxray Member Posts: 1
    I used to own a 1992 Ford Taurus, and it did the same thing. I had the fuel injection system cleaned, went thru all the Auto Zone/Advanced Auto fuel fixers. It would help for a little while, but nothing solved it. Giving in, I took it to the local Ford dealership, and they said it was the O2 sensor. This little device senses the oxygen/ fuel that is being sprayed thru the injectors. If this is not sensing correctly, it will cause the fluctuations that you may be experiencing. This was relatively inexpensive($100.00or less), if I'm remembering this right. I KNOW it was the O2 sensor in the fuel injection system. I also had a Ford Escort, and the spark plug wires got mixed up, and at times it would do what you're talking about, especially at red lights! Come to think of it, not long after the sparkplug wires were replaced, we had to get the "MODULE" replaced. What this is, I do not know, but your local mechanic should know. GOOD LUCK GUYS, and let me know if any of this helps, cause I have one now that is doing kind of the same thing.
  • caravanaholiccaravanaholic Member Posts: 3
    The throttle position sensor was bad.... it's a simple rheostat that provides the position of the throttle into the computer. It had a couple of dead spots that were intermittent. Hence, the mechanic could never duplicate the problem. The mechanic mentioned it was "plugged with oil". I'm not sure where it's located but he said that's what made the troubleshooting so difficult.

    It's a $40 buck sensor but on top of about $400 in diagontics. Not to mention the fuel injection flush, thermostat, manifold pressure sensor and that air induction gizzmo.

    I hope this helps some other poor fool.....
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