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Comments
Defective parts happen all the time, what can you do?
Randy
rc
YOU HAVE TO CHANGE YOUR CASTER ANGLE WITH A NEW LOWER
FRONT CONTROL ARM. THESE FRONT VIBRATIONS CAN GET VERY
VIOLENT AND DESTROY THE FRONT END OR FLIP YOUR VEHICLE
MOST LIFT KITS WHEN SET TO THERE CORRECT HEIGHT WILL
HAVE ALREADY ADJUSTED FOR THE CHANGED CASTER ANGLE THAT
WILL BE REQUIRED. IF YOU HAVE ALTERED THE HEIGHT OF THE
LIFT KIT (EXTRA SPRING SPACER OR SUCH) OR HAVE IN SOME
CASES ADDED RIM SPACERS FOR EXTRA OFFSET THIS CAN CAUSE YOUR PROBLEM. BUT AS I SAID ITS A KNOWN PROBLEM WITH
ANY LIFTED JEEP, GOODLUCK WITH IT AND HAVE FUN WHEELING
I'm thinking of replacing all fluids while I'm at it. How does one determine if the fluids in any of the axles,tranny, T/C, oil pan is synthetic or regular oil.
There are no records that came with the Jeep for any maintenance schedule or type of fluid used, Just thought I asked.
Rog :confuse:
Mahalo
Mossback
Thanks,
Danny
If castor is out (which I suspect, maybe it's had a knock in the past), how is it adjusted? same for camber, although that LOOKS ok, and it would need to be a mile out to pull as it does, and tear the tyre up as it does.
Thanks.
I have a rear passenger tail lamp out.
I've tried replacing the bulb (with 2 new ones to make sure it wasn't the bulb). Still not working.
I've checked my fuses, all of them are working.
What else can I try?
Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
I have the same 'death wobble " vibration in my '92 cherokee sport 4wd. It is stock and non-lifted, I bought it new and was never wrecked. It started lightly around 100,000 miles and I currently have 220,000 on it. First off don't tell me its just got too many miles - I see an inherit problem here. 3 different shops have checked the front end and everything is 'tight'. At first, I noticed it was coming from the front right side at 55 mph and would go away at 60. I'd either have to speed up or slow down. If the tires were perfectly balanced, it would almost go away. Once they started going out, it would come back. New shocks were also put on but still did not help. At around 175,000, it would also go into the 'wobble' if I hit the right series of washboard bumps over 65 mph. I had to slow down to below 50 till it stopped or it feels like it will fall apart. Now it doesn't do the wobble that noticeable at 55 but just the washboard bumps over 65 where I have to slow down to below 40 to get it to stop. The only thing my last shop found was the sway bar bushings were worn. I took the links off to replace and broke them when I was unloosening the nuts. While I was waiting for the replacement links I ordered, I noticed that the wobble will come 'very very easily' at almost any bump at over 65. I'm guessing since the sway bar is not connected, the wheels act independantly and wobble as they don't have the sway bar to dampen the vibration back to the frame and other side of the vehicle so I'm seeing sort of a connection here. I will find out once I put the new links and sway bar bushings on. Not sure if it will go away but thought I'd let others know where I'm at with this problem. If anyone has a sure fire cure, please let me know! No one can answer or heard of this but it seems everyone here has! I will repost if this helps my problem.
Also I have a right front tire hop when in 4wd in deep snow when it would start to dig in on the verge of getting hung up. It will bounce to the point where I have to let off and back out. This has been since new. Didn't know if this was just a typ. 4wd symptom or is related. It has a limited slip rear but didn't know since both back wheels would spin along with the left front that the right front was trying to spin but hopping instead. Anyway, if anyone else can shed some light, that'd be great.
This is the first place it seems that there are a lot of people with the death wobble! Hope we can all figure this out together. Thanks everyone.
Cherokee which has a 4.0 litter engine. I was thinking about putting
245/70SR16 all-terrain tires on my jeep after I added the 2.5 inch lift on
it. I was just wanting to know what your suggestions were or if you
think that I am putting the right size tire on my jeep. I was also
wondering if the lift would give the tires more room to pass by the plastic
lip of the bumper in the front?
I have a 95 GCkee w/ 155K on it. I love the car and until recently has been a very reliable and secure vehicle albeit with no help from my too infrequent checks and maintenance. Lately it feels like I have been experiencing my own version of the movie Speed. Because when I experience a significant jarring, on the front end, while driving about 45 - 52 mph, the front end begins to shakes violently and makes the driving feel as is you've had a flat. Is as if the suspension has its natural frequency and any significant bump, while in the speed range begins the deathwobble and does not release its grip until I slow down and gain control. If I speed past the zone, I am OK and can go over large dips w/o fear of falling onto the vortex of whatever harmonic force is not being dissipated or absorbed by the suspension mechanisms. I read the term "deathwobble" while reading other postings and found that it describes the action and captures the vulnerable feeling completely. It literally feels as if the car is going to fall apart and perhaps take you with it. Yet I, alone always still drive, because I have been able to can control out of it, and is limited to the speed range as long as I avoid those speed I am OK.
I took a look underneath, and found loose nuts on the adjustment rods, tightened them and found that the affected speed range had changed from 37 - 45 to the 45 -52 range. I also found that the stock steering damper and shocks need replacement and perhaps my front tires need both balancing and rotation. I will do all, but I must I admit, the boots to the CV joints needs replacing. Don't know how long they have been exposed. Will update with another post if I find success.
For me, it started right after I had my 96 Grand Cherokee Limited in for a recall on the catalytic converter. It seems like this has happened to a few people right after having some other work done, so maybe there is something about having the vehicle up on a lift tends to tweak something???? I don't know, just a thought.
Anyway, I too have made notes of all the points people bring up here. I went to a mechanic and he says that it's the trac bar also. I'm going to try to replace it myself and also take some of the other steps explained in some of these emails. I'll also let you all know how it turns out.
Thanks to all
One bolt on each end and it's done.
Thank you very much and i will try runnign the tires really firm
I found the solution in the threads here and I plan to shoot a very short video for Youtube to show how I fixed it.
Put very bluntly: The holes on the trac bar mounting plate are too big for the bolt that's currently in there. I didn't figure this out someone else on here did but i cant find that thread again. (If you know which post I'm talking about feel free to give him the recognition he deserves for figuring this out.)
If you have the death wobble (I will not get into an explanation as if you have it you know what this is people!) ...get this bolt out of there and put a bigger one in! THAT'S IT FOLKS. GO OUT IN THE DRIVEWAY AND FIX IT RIGHT NOW! You will have to simply bore out the steel bushing (the one surrounded by rubber) on the trac bar to make a 7/16" bolt fit. I say simply but this is actually very tough steel and just boring this bushing out took me two hours and three drill bits lol.
What about the details you say??
OK, first of all I'll admit that I had to do a "google images" search for jeep death wobble to make sure I knew what the track bar was and found a nifty pic that helped. Here's the direct link:
http://www.4x4xplor.com/images/alignment/alignment01.jpg
Now if you have a jeep cherokee like me it's a little different than in the pic but you should be able to identify your track bar after looking at it.
See the track bar outlined in blue? Follow it from right to left and where it ends (toward the tire) ..see that shiny silver bolt? That's it! That's the one that needs to be replaced!
If your jeep is anything like mine it won't be shiny and silver but crusted in rust lol.
I soaked mine in WD-40 and since I don't have a breaker bar I nearly gave up right here...But with a few well placed whacks with a hammer out of frustration on the 15mm wrench I had on it, it broke loose...
Now extract the bolt. My Cherokee had a nifty lil' "tab" welded to the nut to ensure that it can't spin- and you will unfortunately not have this luxury when you install the new bolt.
When I went to TSC I actually bought 3 bolts; one 2" one 2 1/2" and one 3" long. (7/16 " diameter) It was the 2 1/2" that I used... VERY IMPORTANT: BUY THE HIGHEST GRADE BOLT YOU CAN!!! This is how strong the bolt is and you shouldn't be buying anything for your car at Home Depot LOL. Actually not funny- this is serious If you don't know what I mean when you get to the store, ASK.
When you get the stock bolt out and let the track bar drop down (I didn't disconnect the other (driver side) end) I actually didn't even put my cherokee which is stock w/ no lift on ramps or jack it up or anything. Just slid slightly under the front end and went to work...
After you let the track bar swivel down out of the way put the stock bolt back into the holes that it just came out of- see all that play? That's what causes the death wobble! Ok- so now the hardest part about fixing this is getting the 7/16" diameter bolt through the bushing in the center of the track bar. Don't worry if this sounds confusing in writing- it will be painfully obvious what you will be drilling out when you get to this point. It really was a pain in the A$@ to drill this bushing all the way even though you are only removing a tiny lil bit from the inside but it's very hard steel and if you have cheap dull drill bits forget about it!
Ok take your 7/16" drill bit and bore that bushing out! If you are smarter than me you might even get the bushing out of the rubber before drilling it but hey- I got 'er done... (nearly melted the rubber a few times getting the drill bit so hot lol)
Now that that's done that's BASICALLY IT. Just put everything back together with shiny new bolt and make sure it's nice and tight. I had to use some fancy finger work to get the new nut into the cramped little space and get it started and had to use channel lock pliers half in the hole and half out to hold the nut as I tightened the bolt.
Don't bother to put the tools away or wash your hands- hop in that baby and take it for a ride! I couldn't believe how much tighter the whole jeep felt on the road and took her right up to 90 mph with no death wobble! WOO HOO. Cost me 62 cents...
I realize that I am replying to a post that is nearly a year old but i just hope that anyone else that is lead to your post through the net and goes through the anxiety every day that I did driving with this problem reads my reply and realizes that although there are many suggestions as how to solve the death wobble- This is truly the correct (and inexpensive yay!) solution! Refer to post #144 for my posting if you are reading this and would like even more info... jniznik :P
I have a mildly lifted cherokee, only 4", and im having problems with the right front u-joint. This problem has happened three times so far. The u joint will loose a c clip for the cap, and then throw the cap while driving. I replaced the joint the first time, then bought a axle assy. with the inner and outer axles, then replaced the joint one more time after that, but it still keeps throwing it. If anyone has seen this issue before, help would be much appreciated.
Thanks.
to get to the cv joint axle.
could someone give me the correct procedure to remove this hub.
thanks ,
tom
1: new rotors: warped rotors caused an initial wobble that caused steering components to loosen over time.
2. Drag Link: I replaced the draglink tie-rod ends which SOLVED the PROBLEM!!! The initial wobble from my warped rotors lead to this problem worsening. I found the parts at a local pep-boys/ kragen auto and fixed the problem by my self in two hours. Total cost was around $80. Once you replace these ends, you should notice much more responsive steering, and no wobble from the front end.
3. An alignment will more than likely be necessary after replacing the tie-rod ends that connect to the drag link.
Hope this helps and please be safe while driving with the infamous DEATH WOBBLE!!