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I did what he said on message 144 and I still have the death wobble:( Anyone else do this and still have the problem? Any other ideas?
Tom
In the city, the wobble is not nearly a problem but it seems to come and go. The explanation in #166 of a dragging brake would seem to be a good thing to check. I will go check rotor temps after a drive using my IR gun and see if there are differences. I'm assuming I can jack up the car and see if there is any drag on a brake? Any other suggestions before changing our calipers or master cylinders a in #166? This fix has been a real help since the mechanics have only offered to replace rotors and the problem comes back. Thanks all.
I have 265/70/R15 Goodyear Fortera tires on stock alloy wheels, but for the first 20,000 miles or so on that tire I never experienced the shake. I have a 2" rubicon express budget lift on it, but that was about 25,000 miles ago, and this problem just began maybe 5,000 miles ago.
what lettering do you have on your transfer shifter 4hi n 4lo
or 2hi 4 hi n 4lo?
THANKS PORSCHA
and it felt like it was jumping a tooth somwere like the sound of a chain slipping a tooth ,that was streight up the hill no turns ,it did make the climb ,re porscha
as for the chain jumping a tooth wouln prob bust the transfer case
there vis a oil shifted clutch pack inside the transfer and could be not getting enough oil or the oil has thined out or you are low on oil
many thanks!
PS# The GC is stock and not raised.
A friend of mine has asked me to help with repairs on his 98 grand cherokee, it had worn out upper and lower ball joints on the front both sides and play in the rear trailing arms.
Is this repair work straight forward with normal tools and do replacment arms come with the ball joints fitted?
Thanks for any advice,
I have been told (and am holding the instructions with all Diagrams) that the replacement is rather easy for someone as experienced as me. Problem is: "I am a Power Steering Repair Virgin" and BROKE. I can afford the $141 (after CA tax) for the part, but That is "IT". I have been told that the Stabilizer Shock is definitely not the problem...The Extremely Loose Steering "Gear Box" explains EVERYTHING. I have always had the same HUGE (2nd Generation owned) Wheel/Alignment shop do all my work, but DAMN, THEY SOLD the shop to a Shopping Mall Developer!
ANY feedback would really Help me out! Please reply to this message Post with ANY AND ALL IDEAS!
Thanks!!!
GURRRFUSS
You want cheap, get a Toyota Corola, and let your teenager tear that up.
I don't think your front end alignment is SQUARE. This is how I check MY ALIGNMENT: Parallel Park on a street with no other parked cars. Set the 2 CURP SIDE tires snug with the curb, so at least the 2 passenger tires are referenced to being STRAIGHT AHEAD (not turned at all). Now walk ahead of the Jeep by about 30 yards. Look back to see if the driver's wheel is pointed straight also. I have personally given up on computer alignments. The KIDS and Primitives trying to use the computer alignment are not very smart. And lets face it, its not their auto, they don't care.
I use the method that has been around before computers exhisted, and the methoid that still works where there are no computers (most of the world). I pin a piece of string to the front (center level of the) tire and stretch it to the tire behind it, then pin that string to the rear tire. Repeat the process with the other side. Now you have 2 references for straight and parallel. Jack up the front end 1/2 inch. Not preform your Toe Alignment. For Camber Adjustment: Use a Plumb Bob on a string as your true vertical reference. Folks, my good friend from El Salvador let me in on that secret. A REAL ALIGNMENT SHOP uses a T-SQUARE the size of your car. The computer is just for show, and is VERY inaccurate due to a number of factors that would take me all day to explain.
Driver, If your alignment is fine, do what we all do: Jack the front end up 1/2 inch, and get 2 FOOTBALL PLAYER SIZE MEN to shake the hell out of the tires (side to side). Look for ANY play in the steering componants/suspension componants. ALSO, do you have DEATH WABBLE at speeds above 40 MPH? If so, do a search on this site for JEEP DEATH WABBLE. Have you ever gone too fast down hill on a skateboard and went in to a DEATH WABBLE, then fallen off the skateboard? THATS DEATH WABBLE!
Part=$260 at AutoZone
I Changed the STEERING VIBRATION DAMPENER.
Part=$39 at PepBoys
Changed 1 Ball Joint BOOT.
Part=$5 at Pep Boy's HELP section.
Thats about $304 + tax in parts (guaranteed), Labor is not more than 3 hours.
Labor is about $45 an hour (No tax)....Thats about $480....
if were adding things while your already in there...
Center Link-Part=$36
Tie Rod w/ End - Part=$30
You get the idea. This shouldn't cost over $650
for everything... I say $800 and your getting WAY
RIPPED OFF for replacing everything infront of the Steering Wheel Shaft, and to the Tires.
OH, the creaking is probably the whole set of 4 springs that support the Vehicle... Mine squeek. If your Steering is GROWLING when you try to turn the steering wheel; WELL, then, its your power steering gear box....Ever done one of those?
Gurrrfuss
It took me a few days but
I wonder why is the steering wheel going all over-hell. I'm still searching for the answer??? I don't want to spend money on nothing. :lemon:
I have the same problem with my Jeep....Did you ever find out what the problem was?
Thanks,
Mike
Same problem. I have googled dozens of people with this squeak, but have never found a solution posted. Mine is not the clock spring, and not the firewall boot. I have lubed all the accessible fittings. Sounds and feels like it's somewhere between the steering wheel and the firewall, but where? Has anyone ever found how to fix this?
Morser