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Comments
You may be experiencing contaminated rotor surface.... even touching a rotor with your fingers may contaminate. Did you perhaps get some brake-grease on the pads when you had them out to replace rotor? Did you use copious flooding with brake-cleaner to degrease everything thoroughly?
Also, the pad-fingers may be "stuck" on the sliders if you did not file them smooth. EVERY TIME you have the Dak brakes apart it is a good idea to touch up the sliders with file to make sure there are no burrs which may 'catch' the pad-fingers.
The whooshing sound is normal caused by the vacuum-booster.
Your only real option is to have some cash available to fix when it happens.
NOTE: if pads/rotors are not damaged... you can replace JUST the sticky caliper.
PS: I assume you know that if you continue to drive with sticky caliper, the wheel-bearings may cook and you can end up with VERY expensive repair on your hands.
YOU MUST REPLACE BRAKE FLUID EVERY 2-3 YEARS TO PREVENT INTERNAL CORROSION... this is true for EVERY vehicle on the road!!!
With rear end lifted, engine running in gear rear wheels spin (as they should) but, when I apply the brakes the left rear wheel stops completely while the right rear continues to spin freely.
I was wondering, is this a normal function of the RWAL system, or is this a problem?
So far the brakes have been good, time will tell...................
My right calf is about twice as strong as my left calf muscle from pushing down my '03 Dak brake pedal. I bought used in "06 with 45,000 miles, and I have since replaced front and rear brakes (just today rear pads/rotors). I was hoping that somehow this would help me with the very difficult to depress brake pedal, but it didn't :-/. Booster? Master cylinder? Leak? If you have any idea, perhaps you could also guide me to typical costs associated with the job? Thanks!
Disconnect the vacuum hose from the engine to the booster and plug it with something. Turn the engine on and see if there's any difference in the force needed to work the brakes.
I've been to my local Dodge dealer and I've been told that this part is no longer being produced and is not available. This part was used during model years 94-99 on both Dakotas and Durangos.
Can anyone help?
Any suggestions (aside from junkyards)?
Thanks
Roger
Cutting down a deep socket was good idea. You could also have tried taking a deep socket and grinding down the sides to make a couple of square surfaces that you could then get an open end wrench around.
Can't argue with success, though :shades: .
Here's what you do. You have to make a series of progressively harder near-stops from 60-70 mph. Get up to speed, then get on the brakes hard, just short of locking the wheels or having the ABS kick in. Come down to maybe 20 mph (do NOT come to a complete stop), then repeat the process again. Each time, see if you can do it from a higher speed and apply the brakes harder. The idea here is to heat up the pads and rotors to the point where any pad material that has been built up on the rotor (which is really what's causing the out-of-round feeling) is eliminated, and a new rotor surface established (I'm simplifying things here a bit). Do this 4-6 times, then drive easily for a bit to cool everything down.
I can't emphasize enough that you do NOT want to come to complete stop with the brakes applied, as this will keep the pads in contact with the hot rotor, perhaps causing material to be transferred from the pad to the rotor surface.
Obviously, you cannot do this on any heavily traveled road such as interstates around metropolitan area, so chose your highway carefully.
Anybody know the wire codes on the harness at the brake pedal for the 08 Dakota?
Looks like there are two 14 gauge wires, and four 16 gauge wires. I could knick the wires and test them then tape them, but id rather not do that if someone knows whats what.
'97 Dakota Sport 2WD / 3.9L V6
I have recently replaced my main brake line that leads to the rear axle. I have determined that the REAR bleeder nuts (10mm) are different from the FRONT ones (roughly 3/8").
Chapter 9 of the Haynes Manual (Brakes) - #30041 - gives NO specs on the nut size for bleeder screws. Ditto Dodge dealership.
Does anyone know FOR A FACT what the sizes are for the front & rear bleeder nuts on this model?
I appreciate all respectful answers.
Any ways it would do it again after "repair" sometimes right away sometimes 30,000 miles.. Last time it happened I ripped it apart my self ordered new pads and rotors while in the process of installing them I noticed the area of backing plate that sticks out where brake pads rest in order to slide in and out, was all rough and gnarled. I ground and filed them smooth so pads could move in and out smoothly with wear and have not had a problem since..
I am hoping someone may have some insight on the issue I am having with my 2005 Dakota.
No dash lights are signaling an error, but when I stop on a slick surface my ABS system turns on for a second or so then the truck starts sliding until it stops. Very rarely does the ABS system turn on after the first attempt, and if it does it is only for another second. We just had a heavy snow storm so it is easy to test out. Again I can feel the truck sliding and the ABS kicks on for a second and then stops working.
When I turn the truck on the ABS light turns on as normal for a few seconds then turns off. There is no other identification of an issue that I know of besides the fact that the ABS does not work properly.
Thank you for taking a look and for any help
Matt
Matt
Thanks russ47
106,000km (little over 62K miles). It's 3rd set of rotors on it now, and 3rd caliper on the driver's
side. The first oem seized up at roughly 50Kmiles and the second within 12 months on the same
side.
However, yesterday, I got quite a shock when I came off the expressway onto a down ramp
and applied the brakes. The pedal went almost to the floor and the ABS and (B)rake light
came on. I managed to slow the truck down to avoid rear-ending a car in front of me, but
it was a miracle. I crawled to the nearest garage to get find out what had happened.
Looked at the master cylinder reservor and it was almost empty! Looked around underneath
and we found a leak about halfway along the frame. The front to back brake line had rusted
at one spot and had sprung a leak.
Since the garage had time to replace the brake line, they also checked the brakes on all 4 wheels
and the back shoes were coming apart so it was time to change those. The bleeders were seized
on the rear wheel cylinders so they had to be changed as well..and the cross axle brake line
and the flex hose which had serious signs of abrasion from rubbing on the rear axle.
4.5 hrs of labour later all the lines, except the ones for the front wheels had been replaced.
Now this is the perplexing part. I thought that most modern vehicles had dual braking systems
and the fluid in the reservoir was separated so that a leak and complete loss of fluid in one
didn't affect the ability of the other set of wheels to still be able to brake....not so apparently
on the 98 dakota..the master cylinder was practically empty..I did see a tiny bit of fluid in
a middle "round" compartment, but not sure if this was for the front calipers or not.
I was lucky that I still had at least 25% braking power (if that), but to me, this seems a serious
design flaw in the master cylinder reservoir on the 98 Dakota.