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GMC Jimmy Electrical System

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Comments

  • ladytryingladytrying Member Posts: 1
    only the top beak light works not the 2 lower or er lights how do i fix
  • joegatineaujoegatineau Member Posts: 2
    OMG, Someone who might know what the trucks plight is............Our you saying if ya press this button ( to right ) of light dial...Daytime driving lights go out..........So then if one pushes this button 4 times while driving ( please define while driving...or truck just on and idal) 2 weeks working and searchin on net....with no answers yet..........
  • joegatineaujoegatineau Member Posts: 2
    Ok.......Read your post 10 times now and see my questions is confusing..........I fear I might have pushed this button 4 times while driving ....and my headlights are out...........Questions is then how do I reverse what I have done..........Get lights to work again.....
    TXz Knowledge would be greatly appriciated first truck and had it a month....and have to park it :cry:
  • kingstonsman53kingstonsman53 Member Posts: 44
    my 1998 jimmy had a code number 6 misfire. come to find out it was bad distributor. Replaced distributer now works fine
  • kingstonsman53kingstonsman53 Member Posts: 44
    best way to fix abs light is to replace whole hub. take to shop that reads abs codes to find out which hub right or left.
  • kingstonsman53kingstonsman53 Member Posts: 44
    mine done the same thing. the button on the emergency flasher was dirty. there is a spring under the button some times gets stuck. It sounds weird but thats what it was
  • jimmy115jimmy115 Member Posts: 2
    did u ever find out the problem,with the clickin goin on ,if so pls let me know ,,tyvm
  • jimmy115jimmy115 Member Posts: 2
    tyvm ,,much app:))))
  • 97greenjimmy97greenjimmy Member Posts: 4
    edited December 2011
    I have 1997 Jimmy 2WD with a 4.3 and 124,000 miles, I'm the second owner (had it 10 years). I searched these forums and found out that most likely my ignition switch was the cause of my int. lights and dash lights going on and off as well as the failure of the power seats, locks, and windows in addition to the AC/heat/blower not working. I (with a lot of help from my stepdad) changed this out today. I reconnected the battery and the vehicle has power, and at the very least the windows and blower are working normally. But it will not start. We had to dissamble a lot of things including removing the lock tumbler (cylinder?) and I'm wondering if it didn't go back together right or I need to reset something? When you turn the key foward, there is just a click and the running lights dim. My Stepdad says I need a new battery because mine is 2 years old and probably bad. I have had no trouble whatsoever starting my truck previous to today and I think it just drained down. However, we couldn't get it to start even hooked up to his truck with jumpers. Is it really a coincidence that my battery has gone bad the same day we took apart the ignition? Is there anything I can try? I don't want to spend money on a new battery and hook it up and it still won't start. Anyone have any advice for me? I'm putting on a charger for now but my stepdad says I'm going to have to buy a battery too. Thanks! :confuse:
  • michael79michael79 Member Posts: 21
    i personally wouldn't buy any battery if it started the day before, charge and double triple check your wires, might be a ground off, i myself have a clicking, blicker problem that is in the steering colunm but not have done it yet it actually got better. check all wires make sure nothing shorting out did you disconnect the battery before any work was done. neg i believe, i forget myself sometimes. check fuses, the ones under the hood, sorry this is about what i know with electrical. let me know. thanks
  • 97greenjimmy97greenjimmy Member Posts: 4
    It was kind of annoying, at the very least you can take a battery out and have it checked for free, but it's dark by 6 pm, everyone was in a rush and I needed my truck running. I suspected it was something else, but he got a new battery and installed it--no change. After I got home from work I went to my poor dead truck and checked it out. The cable going to the positive post was wiggly. I unhooked it, let it sit 10 minutes, and then tightened it down as snug as I could without feeling it would break lol. Then I did as I had read would reset the computer, by turning the ignition off and on 3x, then turned it to start. Cranked up first try with no hesitation. I may not have pinpointed the exact problem but WTH it worked. Not too bad for a middle-aged divorced mom! My stepdad said I made him look bad :P Everything works now except the power locks and that's another story. Thanks all for the advice this forum has been a life-saver for me.
  • 97greenjimmy97greenjimmy Member Posts: 4
    Hey there everyone. Just changed out the ignition switch (the multifunction one with the wires) on my 97 Jimmy 2WD and now the power windows, fan blower, etc are all working again and the ABS/brake warning lights no longer flash on and off etc. etc. But I need help with my power locks--I had taken it to the dealer when the electrical starting going whacko and they charged $300 in labor but didn't know why it wouldn't work. My then husband (now ex) tried a lot of things to fix it and had no luck. The locks work manually, but the remote wouldn't funtion nor the power switch so I couldn't lock the back hatch either. I know he had taken some parts out...one of them I have on my desk here it is a "remote function actuation module" and I don't know where it goes. I thought there was another part of a similar size but heavier but can't find it. I also don't know where the remote is since it quit working years ago. I called my ex but he said he can't remember what he took out or where it goes and won't help, his new wife doesn't like that. :surprise: So besides possible missing parts and not knowing where they go--would it even still work if it hasn't been used in years? It's not the worst thing not having power locks--not nearly as bad as no windows/AC in FL in the summer, but it just seems incomplete as it's the only thing not functioning after all this work. Are there manuals or anything I can get that have things like this? Any help appreciated! :blush:
  • zister1970zister1970 Member Posts: 1
    hoping somebody here might have an idea on how to isolate the passenger door lock during unlock only, my alarm sends a neg. output for this but the system is reverse polarity wich means the wire rests at ground but of course when I try to lock the wire from the alarm to the relay I used is not providing a ground so it wont work, any ideas on making this work?
  • lightman13lightman13 Member Posts: 5
    I just took my 1997 GMC Jimmy 2WD/4D in for an electrical check less than a week now for the following problem and the mechanic could find nothing wrong.

    1. I go to start vehicle by inserting key in ignition cylinder
    2. All Dash lights and gauges working
    3. As soon as I put the key in the start position, all power goes completely dead.
    4. Battery checked out good and electrical system checked out good when I took the Jimmy in to find the problem.
    5. Key will lock in on position until power resets about 3-5 minutes or longer, before I can turn it to the off position.
    6. key will turn to accessory position and radio, headlights, wipers will work.

    Of course the problem didn't occur while at the mechanics, but I did describe the issue I had prior to bringing it in, now it is doing the same exact thing again, strange thing is sometimes it will start, other times it will just kill all the power to everything, lights, DRL, radio, everything is dead, BUT, once the power is restored, as shown about in #6, most things start working again.

    This problem has me completely baffled as to what to look for or repair. I'm thinking the ignition switch may be the problem, but not really sure.

    If I knew which wires to "short" together in the wiring harness, I'd take the ignition switch out and see if the car would start by bypassing the switch. But I have no idea of which wires are what and I haven't yet taken the steering colum apart to get to it.

    Before I do, I'm trying to determine just what the issue is that is causing this particular problem. I've never had a car act like this before when attempting to start it, power go completely dead and then be restored a little later. So I'm at a loss as to what to look for or the cause.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  • michael79michael79 Member Posts: 21
    edited February 2012
    check starter, sounds like a loose connection to me. their also might be a fuse for the start. not sure about that i have a 99 and never had this problem, (yet) 223,000 and still kicking.
  • lightman13lightman13 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks Michael.

    A couple mechanics stated to look for a bad or loose ground wire as well. I did that, even replaced some ferrules and regrounded. I can't find any loose wires, nor can I figure out what is creating this issue. I've looked at the fuses under the hood as well as the ones inside the car and can't find any problems. So this one has me completely baffled.

    Looks like I'm just going to have to have it towed to my mechanic around the 15th of Feb. to see if they can figure out the problem. Just had the electrical system troubleshot on Friday Jan. 27 and they said everything was fine, this was the same reason I took it in, but then it started and didn't do this at the mechanics. So it's a bit frustrating not knowing what is creating the problem.
  • castro22castro22 Member Posts: 1
    On my 2000 jimmy my fuel pump was bad and it caused the truck to turn off while going to a stop. Sometimes it would make it seem like the battery was dead and all the guages would turn off.The truck wouldnt turn on right away . When you brake to come to a complete stop does it turn off on you? If it does look at your oil meter and see if it goes down. I replaced the fuel pump and it was like new. I hope this helps you out. If it is your fuel pump and your gonna do it yourself and dont know how just message back and ill walk you through it.
  • lightman13lightman13 Member Posts: 5
    edited February 2012
    Nope, have never had any stalling issues with it at all. None of the gauges went down.

    It just goes dead when the key is placed in the start position to crank the car and get it going.

    Other than that everything else seems to work just fine on the vehicle, just can't start it because it goes dead.
  • dannizone1dannizone1 Member Posts: 2
    did you ever find out how to remove security system i need to know how mine is really messed up...help me if you can thank you...
  • dannizone1dannizone1 Member Posts: 2
    i so need to know too please help us....
  • lightman13lightman13 Member Posts: 5
    Found out the negative battery cable was bad and causing the issue. As I had no way to really test this, they finally found it at the mechanics after several trips to the garage for the same problem.
  • nts_dannts_dan Member Posts: 2
    did you find out why your jimmy had NO electric to anything (horn, light, etc). we have the same problem.
  • lightman13lightman13 Member Posts: 5
    Hi Chris. Yes we did, the negative battery cable was bad. The problem wasn't visible and the cable had corroded internally. The connection at the battery looked fine, the connection to the vehicles frame looked fine. It actually took 4 times to the shop before the problem was actually found.

    The problem was the corrosion was such a way that the cable would work for a while, then it wouldn't. So it was difficult to diagnose, seems like the cable would flex as the Jimmy was being driven, and then when I'd park, the cable may have flexed, breaking the connection inside the cable.

    Got the negative cable replaced and haven't had any further issues since. But I had the mechanic go ahead and replace both the negative and positive cables, just to be on the safe side.

    Good luck with your Jimmy!
  • nts_dannts_dan Member Posts: 2
    No electrical power anywhere (horn, lights brakes etc). i rechecked again and there is good connection from battery = ground to the motor & frame also from + to starter & to brake module. does anyone have a solution?
  • gmcchevyfixmangmcchevyfixman Member Posts: 1
    Did you check to see if there is power at your fuse block main connector (with a voltmeter)? If you have no power to the main connector at the fuse block, and your battery has voltage, you need to check the vehicle's maxi-fuse (under the batter tray). It is a 175-amp fuse that is in line with your vehicle's main power to the fuse block that can blow if something shorted. Most times it will blow due to a starter issue. If it is blown, check your starter connections and make sure nothing is arching. Those fuses are not cheap.
  • black99jimmyblack99jimmy Member Posts: 4
    I have a 99 jimmy. I was driving one night and looked down at dash and saw that the high beam indicator light was light up like half brightness. I tried turning them on and had no high beams. The next day I went to mess with it and I then had no low beams either. As on as headlights are meant to be on the fog lights dont work either. I have checked fuses, relays, ground, and the switch. The switch sends power but the headlight power relay receives no power to it as I found out with a test light. Idk what it could be.
  • kevinking1kevinking1 Member Posts: 3
    Hello everyone.. I'm having an electrical issues with my 97 Jimmy!! The code reads selonoid A electrical!! So I replaced selonoid A and still having the same issue!! And the code still reads selonoid A electrical!! Can anyone please help me with where I might find this so called electrical issue!! Its killing my fuel mileage considering I only have 2nd and 3rd gear!!! Thanks in advance for any help!!
  • kevinking1kevinking1 Member Posts: 3
    Jimmy 4dr 4x4
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