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Give me a break with the VW hate. Somehow dealers do have used VWs for sale (I wonder where they get them) and generally are asking higher prices for them than a lot of other used cars.
the second issue is an engine stutter on hard acclerations. i don't know if its fuel injectors or sensors or air intake or what. i know for a fact my cat conv needs replaced cause it has fallen apart, but i'm not sure if that would cause those probs.
anyone have any ideas?
i have read similar problems in this forum. Now I have to say that after having
the battery check I did mention to my mechanic friend that the key was really hot.
So I am thinking this is a starter problem. Anybody have an idea???
just below half tank. Have checked the top side for vacuum leaks,
etc.. Fuel gauge is correct and the problem is consistant.
Does anyone have any ideas before I go into the tank?
Thanks
Jerry
If I were you , I would try replacing the fuel-filter. Pay close attention to the 2 Orings on the thermostatic "T" fitting that plugs into the fuelfilter. These 2 Orings are different size (and different color if you use German-made filter like a Mann)
If you still continue to have issue, try using your oil-suker (that you use to change oil) on the fuel-filter to see if you can duplicate problem "manually".
I have been using after market filters. Might bite the bullet and buy a genuine VW. Could throw 5 gal. of fuel in the trunk just in case it's not the filter.
I do have vacuum pumps and may have to start working my way back. Trying to elimate everything before going into the tank.
Again, Thanks
Jerry
Also, check that your fuelpump is running.
Robert
Thanks for your help
Safety Tip: remove battery cables from battery before working on electrical system. ALWAYS remove the negatave terminal 1st and install negative last!!!
Usually this procedure involves disconecting a fuel-line under the hood and putting the end in a container. Then enguage the fuel-pump and time how much fuel comes out to determine flow-rate.
also, the engine light is on and stays on. mechanic says the car has a "cold" (whatever that means) and is common for the jetta to have but wont affect the engines performance.
do any of u experience the same problems? and is the engine light directed towards y the car wont start in cold/raining weather? can anyone give any suggestions as to what is really the problem.
Regarding the not-starting thing, please let me know if you find any info or solutions! Thanks!
Then, the same "mechanic" says your car has a "cold"
GET A NEW MECHANIC!!
As for the non starting issue, why not TROUBLESHOOT to find out specificly why it is not starting then correct that problem?
The CEL is lit for a specific reason and is easy to find out why. Use VagCom or AutoZone can pull the codes for you for free.
You asked for some direction about what the problem may be... YOUR MECHANIC!
HINT: Suspect the IGNITION SYSTEM is not firing the sparkplugs. The ignitor-coil and sparkplug wires are a GREAT place to start anytime you encounter engine problems related to damp weather. In the past, I have described several times in gory detail how to diagnose.... use the "search" function across all the VW forums to get details.
I'm thinking maybe the mechanic had the cold and actually said "code" but the poster heard "cold" :confuse:
I had to have it towed to a mechanic. He called later to say that it had no problems starting, and that he drove it around but didn't notice anything unusual. He did find a mouse nest under the engine cover (eew), but said nothing had been chewed. He said there are no problem codes stored, and cleaned the throttle body.
He's going to check the fuel pump tomorrow; is there anything else he should look at?
(By the way, I had a certified VW mechanic to give it a full inspection last week at 70K miles, and he said everything was fine. He didn't mention the nest, so I'm guessing he missed other things.)
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Most folks use a Vag-Com to perform diagnostic-checks and troubleshoot all manner of other problems.
Just this past weekend, my daughter complained that her ABS and CEL were lit on the dashboard. I used my VagCom to run diagnostics and printed out a report which showed a bad wheel-sensor and some mis-firing issues with the engine. Also one of her heated mirrors failed too.
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What happens is that it will normally start fine unless it has been driven for a long period (1/2 hour or more). When it is hot it will not start at all, not even turn over. I cannot hear the solenoid click or any sound whatsoever.
I know there is a fuesable link somewhere but I don't feel this would be the problem as it will start fine as long as it is cold.
Please give me some kind of idea where to go next.
BTW: You headed down the most common road that most rookies do.... the ERRORCODES tell you which sensors were giving unexpected signals... but you SHOULD NEVER assume that the sensors are the problem. (They are only the messengers)
If somone tells you bad news, should you ignore the bad news and instead replace that person with somone else?
And yes, the FEDERAL law says that the CEL must not be lit. The CEL only lites up when an EMMISSIONS issue is detected. (Again - mandated by FEDERAL law)
PS: The word "emmission" does not only refer to what comes out the tailpipe. There are any number of 'emmissions' which could emminate from an automobile. (like Gasoline fumes or Oil fumes)
the error code im getting is: 2181. I got this code both from DEQ & a mechanic who did a diagnostic on my car. You mentioned that If the CEL lights up at a DEQ station, then it must have detected an emmissions issue..but then why does their report state that it "passed" the emmissions portion of the test? According to the diag tests, the problem appears to be related to temperature, but so far, the mechanic is still at a loss so he's taking off the fan control module & im paying yet another mech to diagnose my veh. ugh! this isn't fun anymore! :lemon:
and range from "P1102" --> "P1854"
Perhaps you mistyped the code?
Any thought?
Jon
This is how most engine-computers work when they need to control an external load. The output signals are just pulled to ground to turn things "on".
i know first mistake however she is only 19 and on her own so she is doing the best she can. Had overheating problem replaced theromstat afterwards bubbling from resouvior. torn down head checked out found two cracks in turbo replaced, water pump replaced, all belts replaced. all good for test run and idling. They went to leave got about 1 block heated up again.
found raditor clogged. My son remember he put white grease on engine to keep no rust from forming whiles waiting on parts to come in. then cleaned out raditor. when to restart car started then stalled out. will not start now. it does crank. there is also a light on dash now that is a traingle with a car inside with a key symbol under it. We are having a difficult time finding someone with volkswagen knowledge. before they started this adventure they called vw repair shop they were told 3 thousand to replace the water pump needless to say this young lady does not have that kinda of money and neither do i to lend it to her. Now we are lost as to why this will not start. any help would greatly be appreicated. I found this site while looking up information for them. I am hoping someone out there can relieve the frustration they are feeling now...
There is a chip in the key which is "read" by the ring around ignition-switch. If this chip is not matched to the dashbaord/ECU, the engine will start but immedeatly stall out. The light on dash that is a traingle with a car inside with a key symbol under it is also an indicator of immobolizer.
Is this the ORIGINAL key that is intended for this vehicle?
Here is some info about immobolizer system.
thanks for information will keep you updated
Again thanks