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Hyundai Azera Maintenance and Repair
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Comments
How difficult is the process? What kind of connectors are on the unit?
By the way, I do not have any problem with the Azera's suspension or noise. It does get terrible gas mileage in the cold Michigan weather, about 19.5 right now.
I am getting ready to contact Hyundai customer service to complain and request a refund of the $307.21 brake replacement costs. I kept the used parts, should I take them to a brake shop and get their opinion?
Love my Azera, very rare to see another on the road. I bought this car for the long haul, but am concerned about what caused this rear brake problem. Also that the rear brakes had to be machined so soon, is that a concern?
Not sure what the issue could be. I didn't have a problem with premature wearing, but they did seem to wear faster than most rear pads on any other car I've owned in the past. I replaced my first front set around 35k miles and the rears needed to be replaced around 37k miles. Normally, the rear pads seem to last twice as long as the front pads. However...since having changed my pads a few times, it has been consistent for the most part. The only thing I can attribute to this is the ESC system as it employs the rear brakes when it senses the car needs it. It may not be noticeable to us as we drive, but it would explain an increase in the wear of the rear pads.
Wow!!! $307.21 to replace the rear pads!!! I'm so glad I do my own. :shades:
Check out TSB 08-BR-002. Tells how to correct a squeaking noise from the rear breaks. It seems the pads rub on the caliber making the squeaking noise but also if the pads drag on the caliber they will wear alot quicker. Its a lack of lubrication that causes the problem IMO. As Almet said rear brakes outlast front pads 2-3 to l.
I had your same problem on my Chrysler 300M, when caliber piston retracted the pads didn't and rubbed on the rotor causing rapid wear. Use to feel the caliber every now and then to see if they were getting hot. To bad you paid so much for a simple repair, could of bought two new rotors and pads for that price, the labor is what got you.
However, back on the topic...I have just put on my 3rd set of pads on the original rotors and have yet to turn them. I have never worn my pads down to the metal, never felt vibration in the brake pedal or anything like that. Only thing I've done is wiped the rotor surfaces down with brake cleaner, spray the pads with brake cleaner and do the install and everything has been fine for almost 80k miles. That's just my experience with the situation.
By the way...may your new year be happy, safe, blessed & prosperous!!! :shades:
You're right...shops always saying they need to "turn" rotors is a scam and that is where you pay most of the money for a brake job. Funny thing is, you're paying a per-hour fee on something a machine is doing. The tech only has to lock the rotor onto the lathe, turn it on and walk away.
I am really having trouble understanding which TSB's I should print up for my car and bring with me to the dealer. Is there any way for someone to post them for me (thank you 100 times) so that I know which ones to bring with me to the dealer to push them for the repairs/replacements. The following is what I am bringing my car in for but any other TSB's I should bring with me I would like to since I am nearly out of the warranty (second owner approaching 60K):
-I need to bring my car in for the suspension - it is really bouncing all over the place and I hear the knock described by many.
- when cold the car does not shift smoothly at all it is in fact very rough. It is like the car down shifts prematurely.
- a whining noise that gets worse when the rpm's go up (in park, neutral, drive or reverse). This has been going on for a little while and has been getting worse.
- alignment - the car drifts to the right (tire pressures are all okay)
- vibration when going above 40 MPH (I may have lost a wheel weight or something so this may be resolved by balancing).
- the seat belts do not always go all the way back up, they have to be assisted. They are always getting caught in the door when I close it (driver and passenger side).
Thanks so much in advance...
http://www.hmaservice.com/
No, your adding a woofer won't void your warranty.
I don't remember the exact TSB for the suspension issue. But on the HMA Service website, it is under the Suspension section.
There's another TSB for the RPM issue. It is probably listed under the Timing Chain section.
The cold weather transmission shift issue is not a 'problem', is present in almost all makes. No worries there.
As long as the seat belts are not knotted, they should go back smoothly. Might not be a big issue, but worth getting checked out. Also, there's a very recent TSB on the seat belt harness.
Good luck with the other issues though.
You should change the filter yourself. It's very very easy & you don't need any tools or any skills. Your owner's manual has instructions for changing the cabin filter.
Buy a pre-cut cabin filter from Wally world or Autozone or, even from your dealer. Follow the instructions from the manual. You'll be done in under 2 minutes.
Again, don't let the dealer scam you like that for such a simple service. There's a reason why auto dealer's have such low credibility with the public.
Update: Just did my 25K oil change. Since that filter's SO big compared to the tiny spin-ons, I decided I'm going to change the filter every other time. All I did was change the oil this time. The Fumoto valve replacing the oil pan drain valve made it a clean easy job, done in several minutes without me having to do anything more than reach under the car behind its right front wheel and flip the valve, then return it to closed when it was done draining. My hands never got dirty.
The only reason I'm posting this is because I got a great big surprise. A whole six quarts drained out. I expected only five since I never broke the seal on the oil filter housing. It would seem that when the rest of the oil drains out of the pan, that which is captured in the oil filter housing drains out too. This was confirmed by the oil light remaining lit for a couple seconds on the start-up after the oil change. When the crankcase is full, the light goes out immediately.
THAT'S GREAT. There wasn't a residual quart of old oil left behind. I feel even more comfortable doing a filter change every other oil change from now on.
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For anyone intending to replace their own filter (whether OEM or home-built):
Empty the glove box, slip the glove box "cylinder" off (on right side, it's what gives the gradual action to opening the glove box), then just squeeze the sides of the flexible glove box toward each other until the stops on either side are evaded. The box will now hang down from its bottom hinge.
Now the plastic horizontal filter "carrier" is revealed. Squeeze the two sets of clips toward each other (top toward bottom, bottom toward top) and pull the carrier straight out...
Regards, Gary in Sandy Eggo
I have 2009 Azera with 4,000 miles on it. I've noticed that there is a lag when the car starts moving. I mean the car starts moving a little after I stepped on the gas pedal. Is this normal? Some people say it's something that I have to get used to, but it's kind of annoying especially when entering busy roads.
Another problem is when the car moves at a low speed, probably in first gear. I feel like I'm driving a manual shift car and going 30 miles an hour in first gear. Either engine noise or transmission noise is really big, sometimes I can also hear wheeling sound, and it sounds heavy. Also the car feels really heavy too. By the way, this problem doesn't happen always and the extent of the noise and feeling heavy varies. So I'm actually afraid that it doesn't happen when the technician is watching.
I'm going to have engine oil changed this weekend and I would appreciate it if anybody could tell me if these are problems and if it is, how I can tell the technician more effectively.
I haven't heard anyone complain about transmission being slow or engine being underpowered. Azera is quite spirited in that way!
If it qualifies as Hyundai Certified (with Hyundai logo & everything), it might be worth it as it covers your powertrain till the remaining 10yr/100k. The second owner's warranty gets reduced from 10yr/100k for the original buyer to 5yr/60k.
If I were in your position, I'd spring for the certified warranty. But as I said before, double-triple make sure that it is the Hyundai warranty. If it is a Hyundai warranty, then you'd be able to take it to any Hyundai dealer if you have issues.
Not sure where you live, but from that neck of the woods...you've got Malloy in Woodbridge, then you have Fairfax Hyundai as well.
I bought my Azera out in Waldorf, MD, but I call Alexandria home when it comes to servicing my car.
Any ideas?? Thanks. 2007 Ltd w. 37000 miles,