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Hyundai Azera Maintenance and Repair
Since the owners manual doest talk about oil changes, does anybody have details on how the filter drains, where the drain plug is?? I hate to have to buy a service manual just to do minor maintenance.
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As to the drain plug: I have not looked specifically, I will expect it to be on the back side of the oil pan. Won't know til I get there. Sorry couldn't be more help
1) Gingerly remove the oil filter cap using a LARGE set of ChannelLok pliers along with a rag inserted between its jaws and the cap to prevent marring it. But, you run the risk of rounding off the points on the cap with this kludge.
2) Bite the bullet and buy the genuine, handy-dandy Hyundai oil filter cap wrench, part #: 09263-3C100. (I located the part number in the online Hyundai Azera shop manual's special tool subsection of the "General" section. The accompanying online diagram indicates it slips over the flats of the oil filter cap and has what appears to be a 3/8" square hole to accept a 3/8" drive shank to loosen or tighten.)
(But, in the meantime, they'll have to tear my 10W-30 motor oil out of my cold, dead fingers... :P)
That's why I change my own oil in my cars. I can make sure get the Mobil 1 or Syntec that I paid for.
(I run an oil change shop)
You would be a good person to share with us your opinions of who formulates the better motor oils.
If I recall correctly, the owner's manual does say that you can use 10W-30 or 10W-40 as well.
I too change my own oil and I've been using the 5W-30 Syntec.
You're not hurting a thing running 5W-30. Both 5W-20 and 5W-30 are very close from about +30 deg F. down to -30 deg F., so cold "flowability" isn't an issue. At fully warmed engine temps in hot climates, 5W-30 exhibits somewhat more "body" with less of a tendency to wash off moving parts, but at the expense of slightly reduced fuel economy - in the range of a half mile per gallon reduction. I still run 10W-30 in my '03 Sonata V6 and yet manage 30+ mpg at 70 mph with the A/C roaring. I recently had a congenial discussion with an enthusiastic 5W-20 aficionado and asked him how many tri-initial ultimate driving machine owners he thought run that mouse-milk viscosity in their weekend club day events. He turned a little red and walked off without answering. (Golly - could it have been something I said?)
I'll keep that tidbit of info in mind. From now on...from about May thru the end of August...I'll put 10W-30 in and the rest of the months I'll go with the 5W-30.
I have been lead to believe that 5W base oil is best no matter what climate, as it will flow faster and cover those parts not well lubricated at start up.
So....I will run 5w-30 Year round in our Phoenix heat. No problems with oil circulation, but the 30 should be better for high temps protection.
Good luck
Actually...if you just snug it down by hand, the cap isn't seated completely (I found out the hard way on my first oil change). Tightening it by hand doesn't get the seal to seat properly and oil can leak out. The wrench will tighten it just nicely, but listen or feel for a little pop, that means the gasket is seated. If you can take the oil filter cap off by hand...it's not on right.
I have never heard the "pop" that you refer to.
So, if I go by my manual, there shouldn't be any problems with the warranty down the rode should there? Does anyone get their Azera's oil changed that often?
I've read a lot about oil, and what type to use. But, I just wanted to ask what is the best oil to use? I don't know anything about thickness, etc. I just know that the full sythetic is better for the engine.
So, guys, can you coach a girl though all this?
What type of oil do I ask for at the service station, and what thickness, or brand, etc.? And how often should I go in?
I know they want to make money, but I don't want to give them any more than I have to!
Any help is appreciated!
Christy
Did you fully peruse the various conditions listed in the maintenance section of your owner's manual that constitute "severe service"? It would be unusual NOT to have several in play at the height of summer or winter in many parts of the country. However, if you're comfortable with 7,500 mile oil change intervals, then I'm sure synthetic motor oil will have the best chance of surviving that duration. As to the proper motor oil viscosity ("thickness"), it's listed in your owner's manual as well as on your engine's oil fill cap.
Regarding draining old oil from the engine, do this before removing the filter housing lid. Facing the front of the car the drain plug is near the passenger side wheel.
Now:
How do I get a question onto the form? Can't find a friggin place to ask one.
Rickjudi3@cox.net
Rick
I then religiously use Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic 5W30 and go 5,000 mile intervals for the life of the vehicle. Synthetic is far superior and the dealer stated that it makes total sense to go 5K based on the use of synthetic. I don't think I would ever go more than 6K...7500 miles seems way to much even though they state it's acceptable.
I always use the dealership so that the service records are in their national computer database but supply my own oil.
I average about $20 for the change and $25 for the Mobil 1.
Bought the Mobil 1 10W-30 synth from Costco for $29.72 for 6 quarts. My owners manual indicates using 10W30 when temps do not fall below -18.
Didn't use a strap wrench, just unscrewed by hand. Its a snug fit and moves slowly as you overcome the O ring friction. There are 2 little white alignment lines on the cap and filter housing on the drivers side. Don't tip the cap as you take it out of the housing as oil will drip all over and mostly where you can't reach it to cleanup. Have a receptacle handy.
Removing the oil plug was uneventful, same ole oil plug on everything else. Yes a 17mm wrench or socket works well, use a 6 point rather than a 12 point, the plug seems to be not so accurate a size. The cover over the engine is a 10mm size socket for 6 fasteners (4 capnuts, 2 bolts).
I installed the new cartridge on the cap, make sure you gently push cartridge all the way down into the cap stem as this is where the internal filter O ring is seated. I think this is the "pop" someone else is talking about when seating the cap in the housing.
I like this setup because the oil drains from the filter housing allowing the easy removal of the filter without splashing oil all over (if you are careful) like the screw on type filters.
Screw the cap down and align the little white alignment lines and its done.
Then reinstall oil plug and pour in new oil. You'll want to have an oil funnel as the oil can spout does not go into the fill hole very deep and will most likely drip or splash out and dribble down on the exhaust.
So for $40 I changed oil @ 7500 miles. On the Grand Am I changed it anywhere from 1500 to 2000 miles using non Synthetic oil for a cost of about $8.95.
Thats about 5 times as often (7500/1500=5)for cost of $44.75. Difference in using Synth vs Dino is negligible financially.
The oil I removed from the Azera was still plenty slippery and not sticky at all and no grittiness. Though it had a used color to to it, slightly orange/brown/tan, I wouldn't be concerned with it going a few thousand miles further if I had to.
The oil drained from the Grand Am would be sorta sticky or not so slippery. The engine would tell us it needed an oil change by the sounds it made, less lubrication going on.
Real easy process changing oil on the Azera. First timers can do it easy. It also gives the finicky a chance to clean the dust off the engine cover shroud.
Don
My local dealer charges 30 bucks for synthetic oil change including oem filter.
If you want, they will wash car after service.
Unless you enjoy the work, does it make sense to do it yourslf?
That is a real deal there for $30. I'd probably have dealer do it also for that price. I did buy oil and filter at retail price. What oil does your dealer use? Owners manual says Hyundai recommends Quaker State.
I had thought about using Amsoil but the local dealer was not in that day and while at Costco seen the Mobil 1 and went for it.
Anyone out there using Amsoil? Their site is where I learned of the Wix filter and obtained the part number.
Don
Seems to me the Oldsmobile or Buicks had the same setup?
Remember the big bolt going down through the center? Yuck.
Azera is nice in that there is no bolt, just a cap to screw on or off. Inside is a stem with the cartrdge ridng on it. Real nice setup.
If you don't spend a lot of time investigating things, having a look see as to how they did things and what else is going on in there. You'd probably do the oil change in about 15 minutes.
Then again, I like doing my own maintenance.
Don
I'm not sure which brand that they are using, but I will check the next time I go by.
In my area of south Florida, the dealers like to give great deals on oil changes to get cars in for service where they can make big bucks.
With my extended warranty, I figure that it will take them a long time to grab too much money from me.
Personally, as simple as it is to change the oil on the Azera...I just do it myself. I'm using the Castrol Syntec 5W-30.
I have twice, had the oil changed on my Azera by the dealer, and the price was as I stated.
The car wash can be eliminated if one is concerned about the manner in which it is done, although I assume when you took delivery of your car, it had been washed at dealership.
Yes, it was washed by the dealer and when it came out...it had swirl marks and light scratches in the clear coat. I just shook my head when I saw it. What was I gonna do, have them re-wash it to make it worse? Nah...I just took it home and took care of it myself.
I'll pass on the dealer washing, but if you're cool with it...by all means. Kill two birds with one stone!
Watch out about killing those two birds.
I'm an animal lover.
Does this mean you'll be enoying a vegetarian Thanksgiving? :P
HAPPY THANKSGIVING TO ALL!!!
(I also have four cats.)
I hate to "crack" a bottle of oil for a fractional amount. I tend to reseal them and put them in a safe but obvious place for next time. For some reason they "move". (Couldn't be that I forget...) A year ago during an overdue garage cleaning I came across seven partial bottles of various brands and API "S" ratings (SG-SJ). I used the lot for an oil change on my four year old Sonata - disparate service ratings be hanged. (Test the boundaries - defy authority!) The only thing those remnants had in common was 10W-30 viscosity. At the end of my normal 3,000 mile oil change interval over eight months, I submitted a sample of that witch's brew for an oil analysis report. It showed the least wear, lowest amount of oxidized particulates (pre-sludge crap held in harmless suspension by the detergent additive), and the highest TBN (total base number - a measure of the old oil's remaining acid fighting capability and reserve detergent additive) of any of my reports to date. Go figure - so much for the alleged evils of mixing brands... (Reported only for y'all's amusement - I don't ordinarily engage in that reckless abandon. But, then, shoot - it's only a Hyundai.
You have to excuse me. If I had a real life, I probably wouldn't spend so much time on these forums.
I actually never thought about the turkey.
Have a happy holiday to all, also.
I wonder if grayfox is like me? (My knuckles drag on the ground.)
The Hyundai dealership changes my oil...just did it this morning as a matter of fact and I always supply my own Mobil 1 5W30 synthethic. The manual calls for a full 6 quarts which is EXACTLY what it took.
Think you need to do more research before posting my friend
I hope you all have a very happy and safe Thanksgiving Holiday!