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Comments
Anyway, I took my 2500 to a Cottman Transmission and they said "it's slipping and there is metal on the stick, also said the scanner would not communicate!! All of which was bull!! I am not totally ignorant when it comes to dodge rams! I have been the owner operator of a repair shop for over 15 years and I have owned 5, I was in Phoenix buying 2 more to bring back to Mass.
Sorry for going on,, long story made short. If there is no pieces in the pan change the Governor Solenoid part #4617210 $120.00 and Transduce part #56028196AD $71.25. Used a good grade of ATF+4, Walmart sells Mopar brand for $4.50 something a quart. That should do it
By the way I drove mine 2700 miles back to Mass. towing a Ram 1500. Absolutely no problems with the trans.!! DON'T TRUST COTTMANS!!
Good Luck
Hope this may help someone,
Gary
Please help!
Thanks for your time,
CGBear
Regards,
Dusty
I have a 1999 Ram 1500 4x4 with an automatic. Tranny slips occasionally on left hand turns (only left) and sometimes after sitting for awhile it is very sluggish and doesn't want to move. Sometimes it will just rev freely before slowly taking the power. Worse when cold.
Any ideas? I've changed the fluid and filter but really no change. The only thing that stops the slipping on left hand turns is the Lucas tranny conditioner, but it always comes back.
I'm thinking of selling the truck as it's just a spare now. I was also thinking of taking it to a tranny shop before I do this.
Thanks
WARNING: Do not use Dexron-Mercon in any Dodge truck transmission. Using Dexron-Mercon will damage the transmission. Use only ATF+3 (older trucks) or ATF+4 automatic transmission fluid.
Regards,
Dusty
By the way, 47REs got a number of upgrades and all of the retrofits in '98. The primary problem with the earlier builds was lack of lubrication to the overdrive unit, which caused material loss and overheating, which cause premature fluid oxidation and increased contamination. This would often lead to clogged anti-drainback valves and valve bodies.
I've seen many properly maintained 47REs go the full distance. In fact, if properly maintained these are hearty transmissions and I would bet a GM 4L60 or 4L80 would shear a sun gear or lose a sprag before a 47RE quits.
Oh, and never, never, never use Dexron-Mercon in a Dodge truck transmission. Use only ATF+3 or ATF+4. Dexron will kill a Dodge tranny.
Best regards,
Dusty
First, just to verify, you have a 1996 Dakota with the 318 engine?
The transmission was rebuilt or replaced 40,000 miles ago?
When you added fluid, you used Dexron-Mercon or ATF+3 or ATF+4?
I have a candidate already, but please respond back first.
Best regards,
Dusty
* Sticking, binding, disconnected, or broken Transmission Throttle Valve Position Cable (goes from the throttle body linkage to a pivot shaft on the left side of the transmission). Check operation of this cable at both ends. The cable should follow the return of the throttle linkage as the throttle is moved from the full throttle position to the idle position. The pivot shaft on the transmission must follow as well. Any signs of sticking and this is probably your problem. NOTE: Do not lubricate the cable or the linkage.
*Broken or missing Throttle Valve Position Cable return spring (returns the Throttle Valve Position pivot linkage to the closed throttle position).
*Transmission Throttle Valve Position Cable out of adjustment. Check for a broken or missing clip at the cable end that attaches to the throttle body linkage. Follow the adjustment precisely in the Dodge service manual.
*Corroded electrical wires at the Transmission Solenoid Connector. This is the connector for the shift circuits that input to the Shift Solenoids. Common on older vehicles, especially as old as yours.
*Binding Gearshift Selector Cable. Yep. And this fools a lot of people. Have you ever put the gearshift in Neutral and it was actually in Drive or Reverse? Your current symptom could be the result of the transmission thinking you've selected Low.
*Defective Transmission Range Selector Switch Assembly. Located on the left side of this transmission just adjacent to the solenoid connector. If the transmission gear indicator on the instrument panel changes consistently relative to the movement of the gearshift after repeated tests, it's probably okay. Only a DRB3 test can actually determine a fault if it's intermittent. Check the electrical connections at this device for signs of corrosion. Common problem.
*Sticking, binding, or intermittent 1-2 shift solenoid. Original factory versions of these vintage solenoids were prone to magnetizing the plunger cores after many repeated shift operations and over time. Dirty fluid or contamination build up can also cause the shift position valves to bind or stick in the Valve Body Assembly.
*Sticking 1-2 shift valve or governor plug. Badly scored or worn 1-2 shift valve bore in the Throttle Body Assembly usually causes this. Often seen on high mileage RH and RE series (not 545RFEs). Warped valve bodies are also seen on this series. Hopefully at last rebuild this was checked, or if a real quality job was done, a new valve body was installed. Keep the fluid cleaned with periodic fluid changes and this probably will not happen, regardless of the miles.
*Loose Govenor Plug Cover causing pressure loss in the 1-2 shift valve cylinder. I've never heard of anyone seeing this on an untouched transmission, but after rebuilds this seems to pop up. Rebuilders sometimes do not torque the cover screws down enough, or worse, strip out the threads in the valve body.
You could also have a damaged Front Servo or Kickdown band, but this would cause you to permanently have first and reverse only. I think you indicated this was intermittent or temperature related. A damaged or out of adjustment Front Band can cause this symptom, but hopefully unlikely since there was a rebuild not to long ago, and/or you have not abused this transmission.
You could have a Powertrain Control Module (computer) problem, but PCM failures are very rare, especially on Dodges. Allowing your dealer to run diagnostics on this vehicle would likely uncover a PCM fault.
That's all I can think of for the moment. Check back and keep us statused on your results.
Best regards,
Dusty
Positive manual shift results indicate that all major drive components are okay.
I would highly recoomend you replace the Throttle Position Valve Cable with a new one. This is a common problem. There is either moisture in the cable or it has become kinked or frayed internally. You might save a few dollars getting one from a boneyard, but I don't think it's worth it.
Keep us posted.
Best regards,
Dusty
Did the OD indicator lamp switch on when it came out of overdrive?
How many miles did you drive before the OD switched off?
By any chance did you get a transmission over temperature indicator illumination?
Best regards,
Dusty
Looking for any advice on an issue I just had with my 2006 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4. I bought it about 2 months ago, had 145,000 highway miles on it, and I don't believe it has towed anything in it's life. Recently when I went to pass someone on the highway, there was an abrupt jerk/pause when it downshifted. I was at about 50-55 mph, I kicked it down pretty solidly and it was fine at the initial downshift. When it dropped down one gear lower (into 3rd I think) there was the abrupt jerk. I then letoff a bit and it came back up through 4th and into 5th without a problem. The next 100 miles or so I thought it seemed a little odd feeling, but I may have just been paranoid at that point. Does anyone have any idea what may have caused that and what I should do at this point? Thank you for your time.
Thanks,
Joel
There should be a return spring attached to the pivot bracket and the transmission housing. I've seen these broken or completely missing.
Best regards,
Dusty
You could also have a problem with the shift solenoids and a very dirty/clogged valve body assembly.
Other possibilities are:
*Rear band out of adjustment.
*Worn front clutches
*Direct clutch spring broken
*Bad Overdrive Thrust Bearing.
Regards,
Dusty
Regards,
Dusty
Regards,
Dusty
Hard to say. If you don't have a maintenance history, I would change the transmission filter and fluid. Make sure you use ATF+4!
Keep in mind that the 545RFE is a fully adaptive transmission. This means that the transmission shift pattern learns the driver's style and habits. If you are a more sedate driver most of the time, when you do get on it may feel like the transmission is lagging, or possiblity, you might get an abrupt shift. This happens to me every once in a while on my 545RFE equiped Dakota.
I don't suspect anything going on, but at that mileage I would seriously recommend you perform the transmission maintenace service.
Best regards,
Dusty
Regards,
Dusty
I did a little bit of research on here. According to some people that were having this problem it was either faulty cooler return filter, PCV valve, or EGR. Do you have any idea what could be causing my problems? Or could you suggest what I should replace first? I checked the transmission fluid while in neutral and it checked out ok.
Thanks
After re-reading your original post, and if the vehicle does not move in gear until you get to 2800 RPM, then I think you have lost fluid flow or pump pressure, or have a major component failure.
Major component failures are extremely rare on a 545RFE. That coupled with the fact that you have low mileage and a recent transmission service, I suspect something has caused a fluid flow issue.
There was in fact a number of faulty Cooler Return Filters issued in the Mopar transmission filter kit, but that goes back quite a while now. It's possible, however, that the dealer still had one in stock. I'd take it back to the dealer immediately!
It's also possible that the filter was not correctly tightened at installation and has fallen out. Yes, it's happened!!!
Regards,
Dusty
Regards,
Dusty
Regards,
Dusty
Have you ever changed the transmission filter and fluid?
High mileage vehicles with that age that haven't been maintenanced may have a clogged filter, anti-drainback valve, and/or transmission cooling lines. This will usually reduce the fluid flow to the point that clutches start to overheat.
Regards,
Dusty
STUMPPED .
Have you checked the overdrive circuit fuse?
The fact you're not getting any codes at all is frustrating, particularly in this case. This is, however, not unusual with a defective Throttle Position Sensor or an intermittent Distance Sensor.
Other things that could cause this symptom:
*Defective or out-of-range Coolant Temperature Sensor (46REs won't shift into 4th until the fluid temperature reaches approximates 40 degrees F).
*Overdrive Solenoid coil shorted or open.
*Low hydraulic pressure.
*Clogged valve body; 2-3 & 3-4 Shift valves sticking; valve body plunger bores worn;clogged bleed orfice;etc.
*Overdrive Piston seal failure
*Overdrive Clutch is bad.
*PCM problem.
Best regards,
Dusty