Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Lexus ES Engine Questions

2»

Comments

  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    The ECM diagnosis is plausible. However, is sounds to me like your thermostat isn't closing properly, allowing the engine to overcool, which will put you into cold mode and make your engine run without computer feedback. This can cause it to run irregularly......

    Did you already proceed with the ECM repair? If not, you may want to get a second opinion......
  • snowzsnowz Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the feedback. My mechanic said it wasn't thermostate related since that was my initial thought also. I couldn't get a second opinion since my car was on the verge of breaking down and couldn't go further without stalling. My mechanic ordered the part and in the process of installing it. Do you know whether it's worthy to keep the car or this is just the beginning of many problems for a 10 year old car with 94k miles?
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    It would be unusual, extremely so, for your engine to first warm to operational temperature and then have the thermostat remain fully open enough for the engine to noticeable cool. Your guages are driven by the engine/transaxle ECU via D/A converters. Replace the ECU, keep the car.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Well, mine is a 96 with 100,000 miles on it and no signs of quitting since I rebuilt the engine, so I'd keep it too.
  • dbinaldbinal Member Posts: 1
    The CEL/TRAC OFF lights came on while I was driving on the interstate. I disconnected the battery for a few hours hoping to clear the lights. No such luck.
    I took the car to Advanced Auto. He used the OBD II and the code was P1135. I was told that I needed to replace the MAF Sensor. I did that and the lights are still on and the OBD II came back with the same code. Any ideas?
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Your MAF is giving a BAD reading due to something ELSE being wrong.

    Leaking injector maybe.
  • viznesviznes Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2007 ES350 with 30K on it. From when I bought it used about two years ago I noticed an engine tapping noise when starting the engine cold. After driving a short distance this noise goes away and car drives fine.

    The Lexus maintenance people at the dealership I purchased this car from acknowledged that they too hear the noise but claim it is either piston slap or fuel injectors, both of which are normal for the car and are not harmful.

    Does anyone have any insights on this situation?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited November 2011
    Well piston slap is quite a different noise than injector noise, so those are two pretty wild guesses. Both can be "normal"--some engine designs are prone to piston slap (such as Subaru) but I never heard of a Lexus being particularly prone to it. Injector noise is more like a buzz.

    Are you using full synthetic oil? If not, switch to that and let us know if that cures the problem. You might need just a bit quicker oil pressure in the upper cylinder and valve area.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    I had an ES with that engine. Mine did the same thing. I used Synthetic oil. Still did it. Didn't sound like injectors to me, or as bad as piston slap. It would go away in a minute or two though, and run fine after that. Seemed to only be a cold engine problem. I didn't worry about it, and it never became an issue. That's all I can tell ya.....
  • rcummelinrcummelin Member Posts: 184
    My 2008 ES350 with 41K miles on it also makes a clicking-type noise when cold. As other posters have mentioned, it goes away quickly. There are threads/posts on other Lexus forums about this noise and the concensus seems to be that it is the injectors.

    I've only had one car with piston slap, and it was MUCH louder than this clicking, and only audible at idle--once off idle, the noise vanished. However, my clicking noise continues at any rpm until the engine warms up.

    I've chosen to not worry about it.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Wise choice. I know of no engine failures on these cars because of clicking.
  • doberdawgdoberdawg Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 96 ES300 98K from original owner, garaged never smoked in near new condition. It has 98K original, & tuned up with new belt water pump at 94K.

    MY PROBLEM when floor boarded whether in P or N, or on the road attempting to jack rabbit onto a freeway, or use passing gear going uphill at 65 the engine cuts out. I lighten up on the gas pedal & it is again as new. But it is dangerous, I had to slam on the brakes & get behind a big rig I was passing when sudden oncoming traffic appeared. I kicked it into passing (floored it) it cut out & I braked hard to get behind the big rig. Again, from a stop sign I saw a line of a bunch of cars coming & stepped on it hard in plenty of time (normally) to get into traffic & accelerate to speed, again it cut out. So, I tried it in Neutral & sure enough, floor it it cuts out.

    No code with 2 different orbit II readers, none. Mechanic thought perhaps an RPM block but no way, it is too dangerous. I can think of 3 & with stretch 4 possibilities??? Getting too much fuel when floored, not enough fuel when floored, tiny possibility of fuel filter, & most likely - but no code - some sensor. I would VERY much like a suggestion as this is one sweet ride except when needing quick speed. I am 65 & not a hot rodder, but all drivers on occasion need rapid acceleration. This is my first time to the forum & am not sure I will see answer unless emailed directly doberdawg@comcast.net thanxxxxxxx
Sign In or Register to comment.