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Comments
I don’t understand why you changed the fuel pump though. That’s a monumental task in itself.
When I have radical electrical inconsistencies I usually start with the battery cables and go hand over hand, step by step looking for flaws. Things like where road salt and slop have been working on connections. Also, if I come on a cable or wire that has a lump in it like a snake that just swallowed an egg, I would consider it suspect.
As you can testify, most automotive electrical problems are time consuming. Let us know what you find out. Good Luck
So it could be almost any electrical cable then??
To answer your original question on what regulates the electrical system – on GM’s for many years now the voltage regulator is built into the alternator. Since you have changed out the alternator and still have the same problem, it is unlikely the regulator was the culprit.
I wouldn’t say the electrical problem is just any cable or wire. But I would suggest the break down or slow down in the electrical continuity has to do with a leading or predominate cable or wire. Maybe loose connection, loose bolt to a bonding strap, bad terminal eyes going to alternator, loose wiring harness junction going through the firewall, wiring cable going into battery cable lugs corroded to the point only a couple of strands are left, these all are points of interest.
Put on your gloves and your Tom Terrific thinking cap. You don’t have to worry about breaking it if it’s already broke. Part of being an effective “Shade Tree Mechanic” is tenacity. Good luck Champ. :shades:
Everybody I've talked to has of course told me that there's a short or loose ground somewhere. I've cleaned every connection and ground that I can get to. The only thing I haven't been able to really check is the starter because you have to remove the exhaust pipe to get to it on the 2.2L and those bolts are not coming off for me in my driveway. Have you had any luck figuring out your problem? Thanks.
Can't remember the exact procedure but it was easy. I think both support braces and the cross bracket.
I had a long talk with the regional electrical guru from GM who visits all the local dealers to solve whatever the regular techs have given up on. Here are some highlights of our discussion . . . .
1. There is NO single item that shows up in these complaints that prompts the techs to head for a common culprit.
2. My developing conclusion that it is a charging problem is correct. The voltage regulator is confused!
3. The entire primary system is too long, has too many connections, and deteriorates in various parts of cables and connection to contribute to an increasing resistance that taxes the limits of the alternator.
4. The fluctuations in the dash voltmeter are exactly what the computer is "seeing".
5. Measuring the voltage at the battery doesn't tell you enough.
6. The battery must be checked for specific gravity by cell, and load tested to verify if it is healthy enough to be eliminated, or is a suffering contributor to the overall problem. Remember, it becomes a victim of poor charging.
7. The fluctuations in the voltmeter are showing the actual response of the voltage regulator to the system demands.
8. The alternator is not strong enough for the applications.
9. The regulator (inside the alternator) is controlled by the PCM which is not always calling for the correct response from the alternator. Because the system combines so many loops, the power budget is often confused as to the correct voltage/amperage.
10. ANY deterioration in the system of circuits (large or small) contribute to misleading readings within the system monitored by the computer.
11. The battery cables, all grounds, and connections must be in primo condition. Since current is flowing in so many directions, any marginal conductivity is curtains.
12. Be careful to avoid questionable aftermarket components since the items may not be close enough to OE specs to really repair the problem.
13. Sometimes the dealer has the only quality Delphi part that you want to invest in.
14. This whole issue is a prime example of what we have to look forward to when ever increasingly complex vehicle systems get old. This is the classic example of the engineers not being there to see what they've created many years down the road. Remember, we do the real testing, and this one is failing. For us to eliminate all of these electrical headaches, we have to keep the systems and circuits as close to "new" as possible.
When I receive the rest of my stuff from the dealer, install it, and test it, I'm going to make my results known. I do still intend to change the ignition switch which might require pulling the steering wheel (air bag!). Still referencing this one (?).
I used to be a repeat Ford truck owner, right now I doubt the I'm going to dwell in the GM camp much longer. I'm tired of consoling my friends who drive Dodges . . . . . what do I turn to (Japanese?)?
If you have any questions, please ask me.
I would not pay for $216 battery cables.
I have lived long enough to know there is a work around to most any thing.
Thanks,
Is this what starters do before they die? Should I get a new starter, or is this an electrical gremlin?
Thanks!
Stephen
can anyone tell me what the heck is going on? they plugged it in and couldn't get any codes, and all the fuses are apparently ok.
i'm a fairly small woman and i have to drive through some fairly rough neighborhoods on my way to campus, and i really don't want to get stranded, especially since i have no idea what the problem is. HELP!!
ANY IDEAS!!!!!
99 out of 100, it's always a bad ground when things look alien.
Ground will seek out anything to make a circuit, as in making false lights light up, dimming of others and so forth.
Check ground connection at radiator core support from battery terminal.
Also add a ground from battery to other body panels, fender, back to the engine anywhere. Use #10 gauge wire.
Replace poor looking battery cables.
Sand clean the body ground connection and use a good grease before mounting it.
Clean and wire brush cables and battery terminals so the shine, apply grease on connections and clamp tight as possible so that if you grab cable it cannot move or twist at the battery connection.
Good Luck
Thanks :sick:
Thanks,
Dan :confuse: