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GMC Yukon / Yukon Denali

1525355575864

Comments

  • tdohtdoh Member Posts: 298
    Does your '03 have RPO codes UQ7 and Y91 (dunno for sure if Y91 was available in '03)? If so, then you'll need TNR unit (p/n 10377531 or equivalent 15230099), along with the GPS antenna and nav disc (if it isn't already included with the nav unit--try to get v3.0 if possible, unless you're looking to pinch a few dollars)...all this assuming that the existence of the above-mentioned RPO codes are truly indicative of the equipment actually installed in your truck. Y91 is the code for the Class-II amp (aka, luxury amp) used to amplify the audio coming from the Bose headunit; if you have UQ7 but no Y91, then you have the non-Class II amp (aka premium or "dumb" amp--so called because all it does is amplify the incoming analog audio signal, unlike the Class-II amp, which IIRC processes Class-II data signals)...in which case you'll need to get a TNR meant for the dumb amp (I forget the exact p/n for the non-Y91 TNR).

    Pricewise, TNR units go for around a little over a grand on eBay (when someone offers one for sale) and $1670.22 at gmpartsdirect.com.
  • just2bigjust2big Member Posts: 1
    has anyone had a problem with the sensors after putting bigger rims and tires on their denali,,,,,my message on my dash says "tire pressure monitor"... i know its from the bigger rims but is it a problem or is it no big deal ,,,in other words,,,should i get the sensores put on the new tires,,,thanx
  • gmfan007gmfan007 Member Posts: 77
    Curious to know if anyone has dealt with the computer read out of fuel used. Ours consistently reads one gallon less than what is actually pumped at the gas stations.

    I have heard there is a "metering" adjustment needed. If so, is this an easy fix? And, how do you access it? Thanks for the help.
  • denalimandenaliman Member Posts: 16
    Whoever switched your tires and wheels forgot to take the sensors out of your stock wheels and put them in your new ones. Thats why your tire pressure monitor lights are on. The sensors are reuseable.
  • lobsenzalobsenza Member Posts: 619
    The fuel economy on my last 2 GM vehicles displayed an optimistic value. I don't think it can be fixed. My Lincoln LS displays the fuel economy right on the money. I tested both vehicles with a series of fillups and averaged the results. My 01 Denali reads about .5 MPG high. My 1995 Olds Aurora read a full MPG high.
  • gmfan007gmfan007 Member Posts: 77
    Thanks for the input. I had our Yukon in to the dealer today for the steering clunk thing. They could find nothing wrong with the DIC info. A "pool scan" of the gas tank revealed 7.3 gallons in the tank and the DIC showed 18.6 gallons used. So, that adds up correctly to almost 26 gallons .... the size of the tank. At this point, I'm not sure why we get conflicting figures. They said there is no adjustment possible.

    Our '98 Pontiac Grand Prix with trip computer consistently shows fuel used to be exactly what is pumped (w/fill up) at the gas station.
  • dilbertzzzdilbertzzz Member Posts: 190
    I had the "steering clunk thing" in my 2003 YXL. The service advisor said they had been having trouble (must mean a TSB exists) with the "Intermediate shaft." They replaced that part (under warranty, of course), and solved my problem decisively.
  • jasjas Member Posts: 115
    I will see about a .5 - .75 mpg error with my computer calculation, which I believe is to be expected. I think both fuel used and mpg calculations are based off monitoring the fuel flow which will have a margin of error. Also, with the bigger tank over the Grand Prix, the error may be larger. When filling mine, when the pump first kicks-out, I can put in an additional .75 - 1.25 gallons. The way the tank filler tube is routed can have an impact on how accurate you can fill the tank - another margin for error.

    FYI, I have a 04-BMW that is showing a mpg calculation difference of 4-5 mpg. Now that is a problem.
  • jasjas Member Posts: 115
    I had the same problem at about 32k. The shaft had to be lubed. They re-designed it to correct the problem. They took care of mine under warranty also. Hopefully the redesign will not present a problem down the road.
  • gmfan007gmfan007 Member Posts: 77
    Good point, thanks. I hadn't thought about the sizes of the tanks contributing to margin of error. The Grand Prix only has an 18 gallon tank.

    As you say, toping off the tank could also be a factor. I live in Oregon where it has been determined that we are not competent enough to pump our own gas ... state law prohibits. So that factor is out of my control.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I'm next door and every time I visit Oregon I hang out by the attendants and don't let them squeeze extra gas in. Over filling the tank can mess up the vapor recovery system. One click of the pump should do it, but even if you stop at the first click, you're still going to have variations from one tank to the next.

    Steve, Host
  • jasjas Member Posts: 115
    You gave me a good laugh. I am sure there is a 2 year program somewhere, that when completed you too will have the full knowledge and expertise to perform this highly technical task.

    Isn't government great? Do they let you wash your own windows?

    I live in a neighboring state (CA) and not that we are any smarter, but our gas station attendants, in most cases, lack the skills to perform this task. In fact, most don't even speak the language that we could communicate to them how much gas we wanted.
  • gmfan007gmfan007 Member Posts: 77
    I think State officials' responses are that pumping your own gas would take away many filling station attendants' jobs. (I suppose that is why our gas prices are some of the highest in the nation.) I'm wondering how Oregon ever allowed autos into the State in the first place. Think of all the horse farriers who were left with no jobs.

    I like your idea of the 2 year program. Maybe we could start it out with the folks at the capital (Salem) where all the great inspiration originates.

    Windows washed? Check your oil? Tires? You bet! Just remember to bring your own water, rags and air compressor w/generator. You're lucky if they get your gas in a timely manner.
  • ocmike3ocmike3 Member Posts: 232
    My 2001 D DIC was pretty accurate, usually within 0.1-0.3 mpg from my calculation, much better than the DIC on my wife's Volvo.
    I think the state pushed the no self pumping in Oregon to create jobs during one of the many recessions. (Sort of like all the make work jobs in Europe)... or on the conspiracy theory side, it's Multnomah county's way of trying to encourage more people off the road by making them wait for someone to notice them and come out to fill their tank....
  • tdohtdoh Member Posts: 298
    Just to add to the "no self serve in Oregon" chatter--maybe some of them gas attendants need some more training...or perhaps a hearing aid. I say this 'cuz during a stop at a gas station while up there, I had informed the attendant--twice, just in case he didn't hear me correctly the first time--to fill up my DXL w/ premium when he asked me which grade of gas to pump. Walked away assuming that he heard me right, but after a short time, something in my head told me that I should make sure. I think you've already figured out what I was gonna say next...in any case, the guy claimed that I said "regular" unleaded. Guess he either didn't hear or understand me, even after I told him the second time...and this is why I should let people like him pump gas for me???
  • stanggerstangger Member Posts: 1
    I first encountered the no self-pump law in New Jersey apprx. 6 years ago, having lived and worked in the deep south all my life it was quite unusual to me. When I asked a local official the reasoning behind this I was informed that the state of New Jersey had deemed gasoline vapors to be carcinogens and therefor did not want all its citizens inhaling gas and getting cancer.... Which made me wonder, would it not be better for everyone to inhale fumes once a week as opposed to 10% of the teenage population inhaling fumes 8hours a day 3-5 days a week? Just food for thought
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Any new owners want to unlurk and brag about their ride?

    Steve, Host
  • dsgnwildsgnwil Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 Yukon GT, 2 door. I am having problems with the rear seat folding. I would like to replace the entire bench with a new 60/40 option but I am not sure if it will fit. Does anyone know if this is an option? By the way I love my Yukon!!! It is 8yrs old with only 70K miles, Burgundy and beautiful.
    -Will
  • dcdchaudcdchau Member Posts: 41
    I have a 02 Yukon SLT, it's a great truck. I have been having this windshield noise on the passenger side intermittently. It sounds like a vibration of the onstar antenna or something loose near the sun roof. It is so intermittent that I can only hear it when it's windy and with highway speed. The dealer as I expect told me that can not reproduce the problem... I took it in yesterday while the wind is gusting outside and they admit that they can hear the noise but unable to determine the cause. They keep my truck overnight and try to fix it today.

    I wonder if any one out there have had the same problem? If so, please post your repair or TSB if any.

    I will post a repair details if the dealer can fix it. Stay tune... and thank you for reading this. Thank you forums.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Body - Windshield Area Wind Noise

    Bulletin No.: 04-08-48-003

    Date: June 14, 2004

    TECHNICAL
    Subject:
    Windrush Around Windshield (Install New Windshield Reveal Moldings)

    Models:
    2002-2004 Cadillac Escalade
    1999-2004 Chevrolet Silverado
    2000-2004 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe
    2002-2004 Chevrolet Avalanche
    1999-2004 GMC Sierra
    2000-2004 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL
    with Hood Air Deflector



    Built Prior to the Build Dates shown.

    Plant Build Date
    Pontiac Assembly 12/17/03
    Flint 12/19/03
    Ft. Wayne 12/15/03
    Oshawa 12/17/03

    Condition

    Some customers may comment on noise coming from the windshield and door area.

    Cause

    This condition may be caused by the installation of a hood air deflector. The deflector may change the path of the air across the vehicle, causing the left side and right side windshield reveal molding to make noise.

    Correction

    Replace the left and right side windshield reveal molding. Refer to the Windshield Side Reveal Molding Replacement procedure in SI.



    Parts Information

    Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

    Warranty Information



    For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
  • dcdchaudcdchau Member Posts: 41
    obyone, many thanks... Will ask the dealer to check this TSB out. They found some loose part inside the truck, under the dash area and tightened it. I don't think this will rectify my wind shield noise. The TSB you mentioned will. Especially mime has the hood guard installed. Thanks again obyone and thank you forums.
  • tdohtdoh Member Posts: 298
    I would but I'm not a new owner... ;-)
  • mmacfarlanemmacfarlane Member Posts: 5
    Looking for comments on aftermarket exhaust
    systems for the 6.0. Considering a Flowmaster
    or Spintech but am concerned with resonance
    issues.
  • tireguytireguy Member Posts: 200
    Has anyone replaced their stock 265/70R17s with 285/70R17s? BFG All-Terrain T/A is the only tire I've seen in this size. They'll fit on the stock 8" rims, but I'm curious how they fit otherwise. I have a 2004 Yukon XL 4x4 with 3.73 gears.
    The Firestones seem to be lasting pretty well. Typical, since I can't wait to get rid of them.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Official GMSPO Licensed Product

    http://www.corsaperf.com/flashdenali.htm

    Got one installed. All stainless, a bit pricy, and to me worth every penny.....
  • denali856denali856 Member Posts: 118
    I have an '02 Denali (6-CD changer) which is starting to have intermittent problems playing CDs. It's like there's some dust/lint on the lens or something, and occasionally it skips though most of the time it plays perfectly. Anyone have any experience servicing/cleaning the CD player?

    Thanks in advance for any responses.
  • jasjas Member Posts: 115
    I went with a pretty free flowing Magnaflo muffler, but did need to add resonators to maintain a fairly quite highway ride. Nice little added sound on acceleration with minimal noise on the highway. Check out post #2663 for the parts.

    The big trick for me was to add two pipes (one each side). Slide the spare tire back toward the bumper by remounting (put the hoist through one of the spokes and use a 12" bolt with washers to fasten the other end to the frame. There is a hole in the frame that allows you to do this).

    Works easy on a XL - gives you enough room to run a second pipe between the rear axle and the tire.

    My buddy did it on a non-XL which was a little more tricky, we got a slightly smaller tire, then did the same thing. He had 20's on his ride, so the slightly smaller tire was not a huge deal, but in case of a flat, you don't want to run on it very long or at very high speeds due to the AWD.

    My big concern on the second pipe was I did not want to run it too close to the brake lines. I used the insulation on a couple parts just to insure no problems. I also added it above the resonators and muffler to make sure I did not get any noise. Probably not necessary, but if you buy a sheet of the insulation, you might as well use it.
  • rpboulderrpboulder Member Posts: 1
    We put hid conversion into 02 Denali and are interested in having low beams stay on all the time, even when high beam is switched on. Is there a way to accomplish this?
  • tmayertmayer Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Yukon XL and was wondering if a roof rack from a similar year Suburban Z71 would fit in the same mounting holes. Does anyone know?
  • noahark495noahark495 Member Posts: 1
    My SUV's has appox.117,000 miles on it. Over the pass several years I noticed a slight coolant leak now getting worse. The problem exist on my wife's 1998 GMC Suburban. Has anyone else had these problems? Or did I just pick 2 winners. And does anyone know of a recall related to this problem? Thank you in advance for your advice.
  • denali856denali856 Member Posts: 118
    Last time I checked there was no recall for the intake manifolds on Yukons/Tahoes/Escalades, but it's been a while. You can check for recalls on your vehicles on the NHTSA site (www.nhtsa.gov) and there are also various databases of TSBs out there (I think you can even get through them on Edmunds but I don't remember how, and the new formats adopted by the Edmunds sites seem to make searching for this sort of thing within the sites harder). Maybe one of the mods can help? If not, try Googling TSB and you'll find a number of sites that list them.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    This is what you're looking for: You, Your Vehicle and the Technical Service Bulletin (TSB)

    The Site Directory is helpful for finding everything.

    tidester, host
  • tdohtdoh Member Posts: 298
    I'd also take a look at the Magnaflow, specifically p/n 12568 (aluminized 5x11x22 HxWxL oval, dual-in dual-out 2.5"), or 14568 for stainless. Folks I know who've gone with this on their Denalis have said there is very little to no interior resonance at cruising speeds.

    Whoops--I didn't read closely enough...you were looking for a complete system vs. just a muffler (the above is for muffler only); however, if cat-back isn't that critical to you, I'm sure you can get a more custom setup if you just get the muffler w/ custom piping and tips for a lot less than a complete cat-back package.
  • tdohtdoh Member Posts: 298
    Yes it is nice but as you noted, it is pricey...official GM product or no. Me, I'll probably go with a Magnaflow setup since it'll do just as good a job (both performance- and sound-wise) as the Corsa but at a lower cost, and SS isn't that critical a requirement for me (I don't have to deal w/ salt or other corrosive stuff that might be on the roads I travel on).

    Don't get me wrong--if I had the money I'd probably get a Corsa too...but since I have to allocate my vehicle add-on funds judiciously... ;-)
  • kennymkennym Member Posts: 1
    I too am very disappointed with GMC regarding their decision on no longer providing interior protection for their customers. I have obtained a document after several attempts to get some answers from the sales office here in Seattle. Apparently they have discontinued the passenger compartment air filter starting with the 2003 model year.
    The doc also references the following vehicles 03-05 Chevrolet all full size trucks and utilities; and 03-05 GMC and Cadillac all full size utilities and 03-05 Hummer H2.
    If you locate a retrofit I would be interested.
    Thanks Ken.
  • bcb1bcb1 Member Posts: 149
    I have a 2000 Yukon, 5.3L, 2WD with nearly 100K trouble-free miles. It has truly been an outstanding vehicle!

    About 6 months ago; I started noticing an exhaust rattle (sounds like marbles rattling on a metal tray) - only after it is up to full operating temp; and only after I drive at least 3-5 miles at 40+ mph. (I guess that gets the exhaust hot enough to cause whatever it is to rattle). The rattle occurs when I slow down (I notice it in the 15 to 35 mph range).

    Being that it only occurs when the exhaust system is really hot; it's hard to troubleshoot! In other words, when I pull it into my local mechanic's shop and they put it on the lift, they can't get any rattling out of it at all - even when they shake and pull on every exhaust component.

    The only thing that makes even a bit of a rattle is one of the cat converters, and that is if you "beat on it" with a gloved hand while it's up on the lift.

    This rattle is slowly getting worse. What are my options? I don't trust my local GMC dealer, since they tried to bilk me out of $2,000 in "routine maintenance". But my local independant mechanic is stumped. He's thinking that replacing the entire "Y pipe" that comes down from the engine and has both cat converters (all one piece) should definitely fix it, because he thinks the noise is coming from one of the cat converters.

    Anyone else with this problem? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    NOTE - This is not the rattle that you hear at idle with the AC on. That doesn't bother me. And this is not the "pinging" noise you hear when you shut off the truck. This is a very loud metallic rattling noise that sounds like it's coming somewhere between the middle and the rear of the truck.
  • denali856denali856 Member Posts: 118
    My truck had a similar (I think) sound. Only when hot, and only at a certain midrange of RPMs. Turned out to be a loose exhaust heat shield (I'm not exactly sure where). It was fixed under warranty. I think there might be a TSB on it, you might want to check.
  • bcb1bcb1 Member Posts: 149
    Thanks for the response - if there is any way you could find out the TSB # or exactly what your mechanic did; I would be grateful. My independant mechanic shook & rattled every piece of the exhaust that he possibly could (with me standing there watching him) and he couldn't get ANYTHING to move or rattle.

    If I had a TSB # to take to the dealer; that would be a big help.
  • bcb1bcb1 Member Posts: 149
    Now that actually makes sense that it could be from an internal heat shield or baffle inside the muffler, because there is nothing externally that we could get to rattle.

    I could go to my local NAPA store and get a lifetime warranty muffler, and then get my local independant mechanic to install it. That shouldn't cost an arm and a leg. Then if that doesn't do the trick; it would almost have to be one of the catlytic converters making the noise internally.

    I'm pretty sure we both have the exact same noise by the way you are describing it. I've also become an expert at getting it to make the noise! The only problem is; once I stop the truck (even for only a minute or so) - it cools down enough to where you can't get it to rattle anymore!

    Arrrgh. But I can't really complain, I've owned it since it was new; and I've never had any problems at all, so I guess a minor exhaust rattle after a measly 100,000 miles isn't too much to worry about :)
  • denali856denali856 Member Posts: 118
    Yeah, I'd say putting an aftermarket muffler on is probably the cheapest way to solve the problem, probably. Good luck.
  • denali856denali856 Member Posts: 118
    I am reposting this for the record; it was removed because of a (minor!) TOS violation, which I corrected. There's some info here that bcb1 and possibly others with similar issues might benefit from.
    -------------------------------------------------------------------
    [Regarding TSBs relating to exhaust rattle in '00 Yukon:]

    Could be this one:

    Component Description:

    36. ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING Bulletin Number: 3121

    Bulletin Date: JAN 2004

    Vehicle: 2000 GMC Yukon

    Summary:

    EXHAUST VIBRATION RESONANCE OR MOAN. (2004-2005 GMC DENALI) *SC

    Or this one:

    Component Description:

    76. ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING:EXHAUST
    SYSTEM:MANIFOLD/HEADER/MUFFLER/TAIL PIPE Bulletin Number: 020605005A

    Bulletin Date: DEC 2002

    Vehicle: 2000 GMC Yukon

    Summary:

    EXHAUST / MUFFLER HEAT SHIELD RATTLE, POPPING NOISE UNDER VEHICLE. *TT

    I'm not sure which one it might be--there may even be others I missed.

    In general, you can find your TSBs and recalls through Edmunds'
    'Maintenance' pages. Just go to edmunds.com, click 'Directory' in the upper
    right corner, and click on 'Technical Service Bulletins.' This will take
    you to a page that will allow you to pull up customized maintenance
    info and TSB/recall info for your vehicle. This is one of Edmunds' best
    and most under-appreciated features, in my view.

    As to what the specific fix was...I think they actually had to replace
    the muffler as it may have been an integral heat shield or internal
    baffle. I'm not sure and didn't really ask, since it was taken care of
    under warranty.

    What the service manager at my dealership (Barlow GMC/Pontiac in Woodbury, NJ, which I recommend highly!) did was let me come in with the truck
    warmed up so it was doing it, and then take a drive with me so he could
    hear it--I'd gotten pretty good at getting it to do it by then--and
    then he got out of the truck, had me hold the brake down and rev it to the
    rpm range that caused it so he could hear it from outside and get a
    better idea of where it was coming from. He may even have gotten it up on
    a lift later and repeated this sort of procedure while listening
    underneath the truck to pinpoint it further.

    I don't think the approach of shaking things by hand will work to find
    it; I think it's a 'sympathetic vibration' type of thing that only
    happens at certain rpms (at least that's the way my truck was).

    Good luck.
  • jasjas Member Posts: 115
    I am installing a built-in Radar/Lazar unit on my 03 Denali XL. My hold up, and I have not checked this out much yet, is running the wires from the engine compartment into the cabin. Any recommendations on where to penetrate the firewall for the least amount of problems?

    Also, is there a fused/switched circuit that is easy to tap into?
  • lobsenzalobsenza Member Posts: 619
    As I recall from 2001, I used an existing grommet on the drivers side.
  • jasjas Member Posts: 115
    Thanks - I think that will work.

    What about power? Is there an easy switched source or do I need to hookup a relay setup off of the DAB?
  • mmacfarlanemmacfarlane Member Posts: 5
    My 2002 Denali developed an exhaust rattle at 50K. After installing
    GM straps around the muffler , thinking it was a heat shield problem, we
    discovered it was a loose pipe connection in the pipes before the muffler.
    Since the fitting was fully tightened we spot welded it and the noise went
    away.
  • lobsenzalobsenza Member Posts: 619
    I got an easy switched source, but it was 3 years ago and I don't remember where I got it. Most likely the fusebox under the hood.
  • bklyndenalibklyndenali Member Posts: 1
    Hi,, im about to buy a yukon denali and was wondering if anyone knew the inside scoop on when the new body was coming out,, it its coming out that is,,, and is it worth it to buy the car now that i have read many posts about so many problems with the dashboard lighting up,, ,thanks so much
  • denali856denali856 Member Posts: 118
    As to the new body, I haven't heard anything. Try looking at the Edmunds Future Vehicles pages or googling '2006 Denali' or '2007 Denali' or 'GMC model changes' etc., and seeing if anything pops up....

    As to the 'dashboard lighting up', it's the first I've heard of it, and I read here pretty frequently...where did you see these 'so many posts' you refer to? Does anyone else who frequents this board know what he's talking about?

    M.
  • cornellpinoycornellpinoy Member Posts: 196
    I haven't heard any problems on this board or any of the others regarding the dash lighting up.

    However, I have read that GM is pushing forward the intro date on the new full size SUVs (GMT900) and wants them in dealers by Jan 1 2006.

    I'm eagerly waiting to see the next generation and whether or not the Denali and Escalade will actually be getting V10s as some are speculating. I'm still smitten with my '02 though! Definitely a keeper for me.
  • denali856denali856 Member Posts: 118
    I have an '02 also, Garnet Red with a sunroof, and I still feel like a kid in a candy store every time I get behind the wheel. :)
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