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Comments
Would you think that a temperature sensor for the climate control in the dash is bad?
Thank you.
I have exactly the same problem with my 03 2500 hd.Just wondering if you were able to fix it.I have been trying myself, but with no success. thanks for any info.
Thanks for answering.
Thank you.
- remove the left windshield garnish molding
- remove the left center pillar assist handle
- remove the center pillar garnish molding
- remove the left sunshade
- gently pull down the headliner
- disconnect the electrical connector from the inside air temperature sensor
- partially remove the inside air temp sensor from the headliner
- remove the sensor grille from the inside air temp sensor
- remove the inside air temp sensor from the headliner
When I went to start the vehicle to take it home for the second time, lo-and-behold, the problem was still there. Needless to say, this has been a very stressful week for us. The vehicle broke-down less than a week into ownership.
I spoke with the new car sales manager, the service manager, and the customer relations manager. They supposedly got with GM and GM informed them this is a "common" problem that has been reported in several 08 Tahoes and there is no "official" service bulletin for a repair yet.
I'm very frustrated, and by Texas Lemon Laws these people have 3 attempts to fix the same problem. This is now their 3rd attempt. Of course everyone at the dealership is your best friend until you actually purchase the vehicle and sign the dotted line.
I've read similar instances on 07 models but no results. Anyone here have any suggestions???
Thanks in advance for your attention.
But to address your issue, you might want to try a different dealer if it is conveniant for you. Also, since you just bought it, have you asked if they would exchange it for a different vehicle on the lot?
Good luck and please let us know how it turned out.
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Make sure you document your three attempts to get the vehicle fixed. Keep all your service repair orders...and make notations about what they said concerning GMs comments that "this is a common problem but we don't know how to fix it". Make note of the the names of the dealer/GM people involved. To tell you that this is a common problem and they can't fix it is absurd. I would start working the dealer right now for a swap into a brand new '08. Let the dealer worry about the fix. If they won't do that then you should would start the Lemon Law proceedings immediately.
Anyone with a suggestion...please reply.
Thanks from ice cold Ontario Canada.
Can anyone suggest where I start trying to cure this.
I was thinking either of the aspirator (cabin temperature sensor in the roof lining) or the thermistor sensor in the footwell) - but which should I try first.
As a related question can anyone suggest a decent scanner to connect to the vehicles electronic systems - and would they show the sensor readings?
Any help greatfully received as I am over in England and there is just 1 authorised dealer for these vehicles.
cheers and ta-ta from Julian
Parts: $117.48
Now the problem is I cannot get ANY heat. Is there something I'm missing?
I took it to the dealer and they replaced the dash panel where the speed controls are but the other two issues had sub-sided at the time. When they messed up again and I took it back...again they were unable to find anything.
Now that the car is out of warranty the control is completly stuck on defrost....no matter what you do that is the only place it will blow out. My husband got a geniune AC Delco replacement, brand new and installed it and it is still not working....Anyone know what to do? I am about fed up with GM!
Good luck
I complained to GM twice about this when it was still under warranty but it started working again before they had the chance to check it. It was always sproadic until now it has been stuck like this for over a month. And of course out of warranty. Anyone have any suggestions.
I already had my instrument panel replaced and my stereo sproaically goes off and on as well. I think the entire dash has issues in the GM SUV's personally from eveyrthing I have read on here. PLEASE HELP!
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I assume the instrument panel was replaced under warranty therefore you have proof that the stereo problem could be related to the replacement, likewise the AC problem which the dealer failed to repair when the vehicle was under warranty. I would go back to your dealer and demand that they fix the stereo and AC as a warranty item.
I just bought a 1996 Suburban 4x4 5.7L
The front AC works, but the blower will not work on the "HIGH" setting If i toggle the switch back & forth i can hear a clicking under the passenger dash area when its clicked into high.
the rear AC does NOT work, however when i use the switch i can hear the same clicking noise thru all speeds ( Lo - High) when i toggle the switch.
So, I have a Several questions:
(1) Is This usually a blower motor issue--- or a switch issue ( Both front and Back)
(2) From the clicking sound, is there a blower motor in the back on the passenger side as well?
(3) Are these Jobs easy to access and fix from inside the cabin?
Thanks for your time!
thanks
drew
In regards to (2), the rear unit has it's own set of circuitry, blower, ductwork and sensors. You can find it along the right rear. The bulk of it is in the far back, but ductwork and sensor runs all the way up to the 2nd door on the right. Access it from the far back.
I still have my factory service manuals, so can look up something for you if you have a specific question.
i know blower , but there is a black electrical box that seems to be the area the ticking is coming from it is in the back up and towards the third seat under the side cover .....what is it called?
Thank you ,
96gmcburb
There is the blower motor, with a resistor bank in that housing, which is what drops the blower speed to lower voltages and slower blower output. The resistor bank is cooled by the air flowing thru the blower motor. There are a couple of relays, which switch the resistor in and out, slowing the speed. Further up, as I recall about half way, is a plenum mixing door which is basically adjusting the temperature by adjusiting how much air goes across the heater/ac coils. Also as I recall, all the way up in the plenum output by the 2nd seat door, is a sensor which is what it determines to monitor the output temperature of the air.
I had a situation once where the blower was running all the time, turns out it had a bad relay (in the back controlling the blower motor). That was replaced by the dealer under warranty, I don't remember if there was a TSB on it or not.
If you hear clicking back there, it is most likely the relay controls.
Thanks
In Dec 2007 the readout on the dash (where you can view the odometer or the tire pressure etc) went haywire. Instead of the usual stuff it displayed some random numbers and was stuck on that screen. 20 minutes later it suddenly started working fine. I brought to dealership and they said nothing was wrong.
My XM radio will go out briefly now and then and I don't live anywehere near tunnels, mountains etc. I could be in the middle of a parkinglot and suddenly lose reception. This is weird becuase XM is sattelite.
Now for the bigger issue:
Around March I noticed that the blower speed seemed to fluctuate without me touching a thing. I would set the fan speed to a middle setting and then while driving it would go up and down. I called the dealer and they told me to turn on the max air/recirulator button that would fix the problem.
It didn't fix the problem so i dropped my tahoe off at the dealer. They kept it overnight and told me everything was fine. They said that if the fan speed was having problems there would be a code and they didn't find any codes...
Now it's late June, 2008
My fan speed fluctuates wildly while driving(i never use the auto function).
The Max air/air recirculator button will turn off on it's own!!!!
I called another dealership and they said it could be a problem with a blower resistor or the control head BUT the only way they can replace those items is if the onboard computer shows codes indicating those items need to be replaced.
ANY help ior suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
You can also email me at jjdavis49@sbcglobal.net
I understand that you have found out that the noise comes from the AC compressor? So, if you turn the whole heating / cooling system OFF you do not hear it? In some cars, like in my '04 Tahoe, AC compressor runs almost always regardless if you are heating or cooling. Even in heating mode some systems use AC compressor to dry the air so your windows do not fog over. That is why compressor typically runs if you select the wind shield operation.
If the noise really comes from the compressor, like I believe it does based on what you say, there is one very simple and inexpensive thing to do to see if it helps. Go to any auto part store and buy a can of oil charge for the AC system. Your car is 6 years old and possibly has never had this done.
Just like in any oil lubricated system the oil loses its lubricating properties over time and this can lead to wear and ultimately burning of your AC compressor.
To charge your AC system requires a charging hose, which should not cost more than $10. Anyway, the can of oil charge and the hose will cost less than $20. If you don't have a handy man at home to do the job I would think someone at parts store might do the job for you but you will need to buy the can and the hose.
The job is very easy and you probably can do it yourself too. You first make sure the needle valve on the charging hose is turned all the way open. This ensures the needle on the valve does not pierce the can when you screw the can in the valve.
Then you unscrew the plastic cap from the low pressure service port in the cars AC system. This is the port right close the AC dryer canister (aluminum bottle at passenger side on fire wall). This line is also the one that is cool to touch (when AC system is running). When feeling the line do it next to the service port because the same line is HOT if you touch it on high pressure side of the expansion valve. In my car the expansion valve is just about 10 inches before the service port in this same line so the same line has hot and cold parts to it.
You will connect the charging hose to the low pressure service port (the fitting on the hose will not fit in the other ports if you have purchased correct charging hose) while the engine is running on idle with AC on max cooling.
Then holding the can upside down you will turn the needle valve on the charging hose to full closed. This will pierce the can. After this you open the valve holding it upside down and the ac system will suck the contents in the system. You will need to shake the can before you do all this and they instruct to shake it while it is flowing in too. It only takes about 30 seconds for the oil charge to flow in the system.
If oil charge gets rid of the noise you should be fine as you say the air coming out of the vents is ice cold.
If oil charge does not help at all you might have a bearing problem with the compressor.
Bearing problem can be such that when you accelerate the extra force from acceleration can cause the bearing to make noise but when you drive constant speed or do just moderate acceleration during driving noise is not generated as acceleration force is not big enough to cause problem.
If it is bearing issue you could try lubricating the bearing but it is very difficult to do and probably requires removal of the clutch and pulley that turns the compressor.
$500 is not bad for AC compressor change as just the part for my car costs almost that. I guess the mechanic was talking about the cost for the compressor, not it installed. For the job you need to re-charge the system and to do that correctly the system must be vacuumed first after compressor change. And if you are to have compressor changed you probably want to replace expansion valve and the AC dryer canister too. At least that is what I would do if I had to replace my compressor.
With all this work and parts you might be looking a bill around $800 instead of $500 so please do yourself a favor. Try the oil charge first as if the compressor is just running little dry it might save you that $800!
Arrie