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Chevy Suburban and Tahoe AC and Heater Problems

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Comments

  • wbernhardtwbernhardt Member Posts: 16
    My 04 Tahoe climate control on dash blows cold air. When I turn the knobsfrom 60-89, it blows cool air but when I turn it to 90 degrees, it blows warm air. The controls on the ceiling work for blowing warm and cool air in the back of the vehicle.
    Would you think that a temperature sensor for the climate control in the dash is bad?

    Thank you.
  • aloisalois Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I have exactly the same problem with my 03 2500 hd.Just wondering if you were able to fix it.I have been trying myself, but with no success. thanks for any info.
  • wbernhardtwbernhardt Member Posts: 16
    I have not found the sensor yet. I looked under the passenger side dash and drivers side dash and took out climate control unit and found nothing. In the ceiling above the drivers head is a small 2 inch round vent or something like that. That might be the sensor. I need some time to investigate that.
    Thanks for answering.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Just recently bought an 07, and the salesman indicated that the sensor is the little thing in the ceiling above the drivers head.
  • wbernhardtwbernhardt Member Posts: 16
    I have to figure out how to get at it without tearing out the whole ceiling. I tried to pll that round thing off but did not want to break it.
    Thank you.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Here's the instructions from the service manual (2007)
    - remove the left windshield garnish molding
    - remove the left center pillar assist handle
    - remove the center pillar garnish molding
    - remove the left sunshade
    - gently pull down the headliner
    - disconnect the electrical connector from the inside air temperature sensor
    - partially remove the inside air temp sensor from the headliner
    - remove the sensor grille from the inside air temp sensor
    - remove the inside air temp sensor from the headliner
  • wbernhardtwbernhardt Member Posts: 16
    Thank you very much. It sounds like I would have been at it for awhile trying to figure out how to do it. This is a big help.
  • wbernhardtwbernhardt Member Posts: 16
    I went to a Chevy dealer and he thought the control itself is bad. He also said that there might be some software updates that could bring it up too date and make it work better because of a glitch in the control.
  • whiteelephantwhiteelephant Member Posts: 1
    Hi, folks. My wife and I purchased a new 08 Tahoe LT on Nov. 2nd. Five days later, the 2 vents on the passenger side start blowing hot air. Also, the air is not as strong on the 2 right passenger vents. I took it back to the dealer, they re-set the system and couldn't find anything wrong. When I went to pick it up after starting it up at the parking lot, the problem was still there. I left it overnight again, they supposedly reset the system to "08 specs" and said the vehicle was ready.

    When I went to start the vehicle to take it home for the second time, lo-and-behold, the problem was still there. Needless to say, this has been a very stressful week for us. The vehicle broke-down less than a week into ownership.

    I spoke with the new car sales manager, the service manager, and the customer relations manager. They supposedly got with GM and GM informed them this is a "common" problem that has been reported in several 08 Tahoes and there is no "official" service bulletin for a repair yet.

    I'm very frustrated, and by Texas Lemon Laws these people have 3 attempts to fix the same problem. This is now their 3rd attempt. Of course everyone at the dealership is your best friend until you actually purchase the vehicle and sign the dotted line.

    I've read similar instances on 07 models but no results. Anyone here have any suggestions???

    Thanks in advance for your attention.
  • steelermansteelerman Member Posts: 36
    Wow. Sorry about your problem. You mentioned that the vehicle has a climate control problem and you say that the vehicle "broke down". Are there two different problems with your Tahoe? I have an '06 Tahoe with no problems like you describe.

    But to address your issue, you might want to try a different dealer if it is conveniant for you. Also, since you just bought it, have you asked if they would exchange it for a different vehicle on the lot?

    Good luck and please let us know how it turned out.
  • rockman59rockman59 Member Posts: 250
    whiteelephant said: I'm very frustrated, and by Texas Lemon Laws these people have 3 attempts to fix the same problem. This is now their 3rd attempt.
    ____________________________________________________________________
    Make sure you document your three attempts to get the vehicle fixed. Keep all your service repair orders...and make notations about what they said concerning GMs comments that "this is a common problem but we don't know how to fix it". Make note of the the names of the dealer/GM people involved. To tell you that this is a common problem and they can't fix it is absurd. I would start working the dealer right now for a swap into a brand new '08. Let the dealer worry about the fix. If they won't do that then you should would start the Lemon Law proceedings immediately.
  • hockeydaddyohockeydaddyo Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 05 Suburban LT and just recently the blower motor for the front heater keeps running after the ignition is off. I opened the hood and pulled the fuse which temporarily fixed the problem, but now every second or third time I run the heater it happens again. I don't understand how it is getting direct power after the ignition is off and the keys are in my pocket.
    Anyone with a suggestion...please reply.
    Thanks from ice cold Ontario Canada.
  • kahndlkahndl Member Posts: 1
    As I was registering for this forum to comment, my dealer called and told me that I definitly had a short in the resistor control module causing the "mind of it's own" . They replaced it and fixed a leak in my front axe. Both under warrantee, thank God I bought the extended warrantee at the time of purchase last Feb. Good luck with yours.
  • alaska7alaska7 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my 2001 Tahoe as well, thanks for the information. Did you install the flapper valve yourself and if you did how much work was involved?
  • cajun_1cajun_1 Member Posts: 1
    1999 Chevrolet C-1500 Suburban ... Can anyone tell me wher the Cabin Air Filters are located ? Thank You
  • winnie3winnie3 Member Posts: 1
    My '04 z71 Tahoe's air conditioning periodically shuts itself off. The a/c will be nice and cold; without warning, very warm, humid air starts coming through the vents. I've had it into the dealer many times, but of course, it never happens for them. What could the problem be?
  • boersenboersen Member Posts: 2
    I have a 95 suburban. All the settings on the heating control work accept for the defroster. I can turn the dial to that setting but nothing happens, and in Michigan, that is not a good thing. Any ideas as to what is wrong and how to fix it?
  • punkieys17punkieys17 Member Posts: 1
    In my 1500LT the fully automatic air con switches from blowing cold to hot or hot to cold only when the temperature selection is turned up above 90 degrees (or to 89 degrees or lower). On fully automatic the system will keep blowing hot (90 degrees or above indicated) or cold (89 degrees or below) AND NOT STOP.....

    Can anyone suggest where I start trying to cure this.

    I was thinking either of the aspirator (cabin temperature sensor in the roof lining) or the thermistor sensor in the footwell) - but which should I try first.

    As a related question can anyone suggest a decent scanner to connect to the vehicles electronic systems - and would they show the sensor readings?

    Any help greatfully received as I am over in England and there is just 1 authorised dealer for these vehicles.

    cheers and ta-ta from Julian
  • denkatdenkat Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 Suburban I purchased about a year ago. About 3 weeks ago my battery went dead, I found out at that time that the heater fan is stuck on even when the car is turned off and the keys are out the fan still blows on low. I now have to remove the negative cable to the battery every night to avoid waking up to a dead battery. Has anyone else experienced this problem? If yes, how did you resolve the issue? What part caused the problem?
  • whoriderwhorider Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with my 03 Tahoe Z71. I had to replace the blower module, the blower circuit had failed.
    Parts: $117.48
  • denkatdenkat Member Posts: 2
    Thanks whorider for the response, it was indeed the blower module, $133.10 for the part $98 for the labor. That was a bummer, I'm just glad it's fixed. Thanks again.
  • wyrman332wyrman332 Member Posts: 1
    The background of the problem is that I had absolutely NO control of my rear climate control. The blower motor always stayed on. even ran the battery dead. I replaced the ballast resistor and the fan ceased to run 24/7. I then had no control of which vent the air was coming out. I replaced the rear temperature sensor (little speaker looking device), and now I can control the transfer between the floor vents and the celing vents.

    Now the problem is I cannot get ANY heat. Is there something I'm missing?
  • matgilbertmatgilbert Member Posts: 1
    I have a 04' AC works fine on drivers and pass' side drivers side blows cold no matter where the temp control is set. I can change it from floor to dash to defrost but it is always cold air. the passengers side get nice and toasty. Does this sound like an actuator?
  • okctahoeokctahoe Member Posts: 4
    First my speedometer stuck and went out in 2005. About the same time my stereo stopped working and also my a/c would blow out the defrost when it was positioned on face.

    I took it to the dealer and they replaced the dash panel where the speed controls are but the other two issues had sub-sided at the time. When they messed up again and I took it back...again they were unable to find anything.

    Now that the car is out of warranty the control is completly stuck on defrost....no matter what you do that is the only place it will blow out. My husband got a geniune AC Delco replacement, brand new and installed it and it is still not working....Anyone know what to do? I am about fed up with GM!
  • wbernhardtwbernhardt Member Posts: 16
    They found a bad ground between the sensor in ceiling and climate control. They fixed the ground and it works. I could bet you have the same problem.

    Good luck
  • okctahoeokctahoe Member Posts: 4
    My husband replaced the control panel with a brand new ac delco part and it still won't blow anywhere but out the defrost and on your feet.

    I complained to GM twice about this when it was still under warranty but it started working again before they had the chance to check it. It was always sproadic until now it has been stuck like this for over a month. And of course out of warranty. Anyone have any suggestions.

    I already had my instrument panel replaced and my stereo sproaically goes off and on as well. I think the entire dash has issues in the GM SUV's personally from eveyrthing I have read on here. PLEASE HELP!
  • sacsuburbansacsuburban Member Posts: 1
    Somehow something got stuck in the fan motor inside the dash. How do I access the fan?
  • rockman59rockman59 Member Posts: 250
    okctahoe said: I already had my instrument panel replaced and my stereo sproaically goes off and on as well
    ____________________________________________________________________
    I assume the instrument panel was replaced under warranty therefore you have proof that the stereo problem could be related to the replacement, likewise the AC problem which the dealer failed to repair when the vehicle was under warranty. I would go back to your dealer and demand that they fix the stereo and AC as a warranty item.
  • jjejje Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Chevy Tahoe. I have noticed that some of the back lights on my dash board switches have went out, but everything still works. ex.. defroster button. Recently when I try turning on the AC it will blink a couple of times then turn back off, most of the time it is when I idle. Sometimes once I get going or at times even as soon as I crank the truck it will turn on itself and work fine. When it is on it blows cold and works fine. Could this be electrical or the AC itself??
  • 96gmcburb96gmcburb Member Posts: 2
    Hello, Nice Place ya got going here!

    I just bought a 1996 Suburban 4x4 5.7L

    The front AC works, but the blower will not work on the "HIGH" setting If i toggle the switch back & forth i can hear a clicking under the passenger dash area when its clicked into high.

    the rear AC does NOT work, however when i use the switch i can hear the same clicking noise thru all speeds ( Lo - High) when i toggle the switch.

    So, I have a Several questions:

    (1) Is This usually a blower motor issue--- or a switch issue ( Both front and Back)

    (2) From the clicking sound, is there a blower motor in the back on the passenger side as well?

    (3) Are these Jobs easy to access and fix from inside the cabin?

    Thanks for your time!
  • alawinalawin Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2001 suburban. The ac switch seems to work, light comes on when depressed, goes off when pushed. However, the compressor seems to run all of the time regardless of the switch setting. Any ideas? is this normal. I do not have the vent controller set on defrost.

    thanks
    drew
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Had a 97 sub (replaced now with an 07), so can help a little.

    In regards to (2), the rear unit has it's own set of circuitry, blower, ductwork and sensors. You can find it along the right rear. The bulk of it is in the far back, but ductwork and sensor runs all the way up to the 2nd door on the right. Access it from the far back.

    I still have my factory service manuals, so can look up something for you if you have a specific question.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    There is a set of high and low freon pressure switches, which control relays, which controls the operations of the a/c compressor clutch.
  • alawinalawin Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the response. However, I fiddled around some more and found something interesting. The compressor stays on continually (regardless of ac switch position) only when I have the recirculate air selected. The ac switch functions normally when I have the fresh air selected.
  • alawinalawin Member Posts: 6
    I can hear a click when I hit the window button from either the driver's door or the affected door. I would normally think this was a motor that needs to be replaced. However, there was a brief period when the window started working, it functioned normally for about two weeks then quit never to work again. I can still here it picking the motor when the switch is depressed. I dont want to waste the money on a motor if I have a short. Any ideas? thanks.
  • hand3hand3 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 5.3 liter tahoe. For the past year the rear a/c, heater, and blower ... for no reason will stop working. Then later on ... after the vehicle has been parked and resterted ... the overhead selector switches, for the rear a/c, would begin operating the system again. Then after a few more months, only the front overhead a/c controls would operate the rear a/c, heat, and blower. But as I said earilier, for no apparent reason, the rear blower would stop blowing. Now nether the front or rear, overhead controls will operate the rear a/c, heat. or fan. it's hard to believe that both switch panels are defective. The front passenger a/c, heat, and blower works fine. Any help would be appreciated.
  • jweast99jweast99 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Suburban. The air conditioner works fine, unless the car is wet (after rain or car wash) the light on the dashboard won't light and the A/C won't work. This happens whether the car is idling or moving. Once the vehicle dries off the A/C starts working again. Not sure what is causing this. Any ideas?
  • camocavcamocav Member Posts: 7
    It seems when I'm stopped at a light, sign, or wherever, but in gear, I get a load vibration under/behind the firewall. A GMC deal informed me of a Tech bulletin as the HVAC/exhaust was part of the problem, but a $130.00 for clamps and $80.00 for labor(my GM extended warranty wouldn't cover it either). would do the trick. I checked the exhaust system and it was NOT vibrating, so that was out. As fo the HVAC, ?? So, I read a post by Arrie on adding a can of oil treatment to their Tahoe's AC system due to compressor noise. I'll see how it works, hopeffully it does as the vibration is load at times. Anyone else have issues like this?? :confuse:
  • 96gmcburb96gmcburb Member Posts: 2
    Well yeah would you look up what the parts are called?

    i know blower , but there is a black electrical box that seems to be the area the ticking is coming from it is in the back up and towards the third seat under the side cover .....what is it called?

    Thank you ,

    96gmcburb
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Well I'm looking in the manual, and I don't see the break out of it, but I know it's here in this manual somewhere....since I had to get into it a couple of times when I owned it. Here's what I remember, so this is all from memory..

    There is the blower motor, with a resistor bank in that housing, which is what drops the blower speed to lower voltages and slower blower output. The resistor bank is cooled by the air flowing thru the blower motor. There are a couple of relays, which switch the resistor in and out, slowing the speed. Further up, as I recall about half way, is a plenum mixing door which is basically adjusting the temperature by adjusiting how much air goes across the heater/ac coils. Also as I recall, all the way up in the plenum output by the 2nd seat door, is a sensor which is what it determines to monitor the output temperature of the air.

    I had a situation once where the blower was running all the time, turns out it had a bad relay (in the back controlling the blower motor). That was replaced by the dealer under warranty, I don't remember if there was a TSB on it or not.

    If you hear clicking back there, it is most likely the relay controls.
  • dwalton1dwalton1 Member Posts: 1
    rear air not working at all front works great .I checked fuses under hood and dash .Just need some help
  • calipagcalipag Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem, did you ever figure out what was wrong?

    Thanks
  • domabrosdomabros Member Posts: 1
    Front air is ice cold on my 99 suburban,rear air not.Vent door selectors are both working in rear,one for heat or a\c,one for floor or ceiling.Any suggestions?
  • nflguynflguy Member Posts: 90
    I have a 2007 tahoe LT3 that I bought in October 2007.

    In Dec 2007 the readout on the dash (where you can view the odometer or the tire pressure etc) went haywire. Instead of the usual stuff it displayed some random numbers and was stuck on that screen. 20 minutes later it suddenly started working fine. I brought to dealership and they said nothing was wrong.

    My XM radio will go out briefly now and then and I don't live anywehere near tunnels, mountains etc. I could be in the middle of a parkinglot and suddenly lose reception. This is weird becuase XM is sattelite.

    Now for the bigger issue:

    Around March I noticed that the blower speed seemed to fluctuate without me touching a thing. I would set the fan speed to a middle setting and then while driving it would go up and down. I called the dealer and they told me to turn on the max air/recirulator button that would fix the problem.

    It didn't fix the problem so i dropped my tahoe off at the dealer. They kept it overnight and told me everything was fine. They said that if the fan speed was having problems there would be a code and they didn't find any codes...

    Now it's late June, 2008

    My fan speed fluctuates wildly while driving(i never use the auto function).

    The Max air/air recirculator button will turn off on it's own!!!!

    I called another dealership and they said it could be a problem with a blower resistor or the control head BUT the only way they can replace those items is if the onboard computer shows codes indicating those items need to be replaced.

    ANY help ior suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

    You can also email me at jjdavis49@sbcglobal.net
  • natalenatale Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2002 Chevy Tahoe that when you put the ac or the heat on and step on the gas you hear this really lound like clicking noise. You let off the gas and the truck idle and there is no noise. The air comes out cold as ice and the heat works great as well. I had a mechanic look at it and he suggested changing the tensioner and the belt or it might be the compressor. I changed the tensioner and belt and the problem still remains. Does it sound like the compressor? Has anyone else had this same problem? Mechanic stated it will cost $500.00 to replace? Does this sound correct?
  • krmarshall05krmarshall05 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Suburban and I have the same exact problem and i have done the same things so far as replacing the tensioner and the belt, and it is still doing the same thing, I want to know how long i can drive and how far I can drive my suburban like this.
  • natalenatale Member Posts: 5
    When i took it in to the dealer tha ti bought it from for this problem (Not a chevy dealer) they said it would not hurt the vehicle. I am ultimately going to bring it into chevy to have them take a look at it and diagnose it. I dont honestly think it is the compressor because they said it is gumming up because of the freon. So my answer then is ok, then what about when i turn on the heat? Their is no freon being used when you run the heat. They also told me they received a memo from GM on this problem. I just hope it is not going to cost $500.00 or more to replace. This is the first problem i have had with this vehicle in the three years i have owned it. On top of the cost of gas now unfortunately i have to worry about this. I have found tha twhen driving after you get going you can turn the air on and the truck will not make the nosie, unfortunately after you stop for a light or to turn you need to shut off the air so that when you step on the gas the truck will not make the noise. Let me know if you find out any additional info and i will do the same.
  • jerryingajerryinga Member Posts: 1
    the problem could be the radiator fan clutch. while driving there is enough air blowing across a/c condenser and radiator. when you stop if the fan clutch is defective, there is not sufficent air flowing to cool freon in condenser coil.
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    Natale,

    I understand that you have found out that the noise comes from the AC compressor? So, if you turn the whole heating / cooling system OFF you do not hear it? In some cars, like in my '04 Tahoe, AC compressor runs almost always regardless if you are heating or cooling. Even in heating mode some systems use AC compressor to dry the air so your windows do not fog over. That is why compressor typically runs if you select the wind shield operation.

    If the noise really comes from the compressor, like I believe it does based on what you say, there is one very simple and inexpensive thing to do to see if it helps. Go to any auto part store and buy a can of oil charge for the AC system. Your car is 6 years old and possibly has never had this done.

    Just like in any oil lubricated system the oil loses its lubricating properties over time and this can lead to wear and ultimately burning of your AC compressor.

    To charge your AC system requires a charging hose, which should not cost more than $10. Anyway, the can of oil charge and the hose will cost less than $20. If you don't have a handy man at home to do the job I would think someone at parts store might do the job for you but you will need to buy the can and the hose.

    The job is very easy and you probably can do it yourself too. You first make sure the needle valve on the charging hose is turned all the way open. This ensures the needle on the valve does not pierce the can when you screw the can in the valve.

    Then you unscrew the plastic cap from the low pressure service port in the cars AC system. This is the port right close the AC dryer canister (aluminum bottle at passenger side on fire wall). This line is also the one that is cool to touch (when AC system is running). When feeling the line do it next to the service port because the same line is HOT if you touch it on high pressure side of the expansion valve. In my car the expansion valve is just about 10 inches before the service port in this same line so the same line has hot and cold parts to it.

    You will connect the charging hose to the low pressure service port (the fitting on the hose will not fit in the other ports if you have purchased correct charging hose) while the engine is running on idle with AC on max cooling.

    Then holding the can upside down you will turn the needle valve on the charging hose to full closed. This will pierce the can. After this you open the valve holding it upside down and the ac system will suck the contents in the system. You will need to shake the can before you do all this and they instruct to shake it while it is flowing in too. It only takes about 30 seconds for the oil charge to flow in the system.

    If oil charge gets rid of the noise you should be fine as you say the air coming out of the vents is ice cold.

    If oil charge does not help at all you might have a bearing problem with the compressor.

    Bearing problem can be such that when you accelerate the extra force from acceleration can cause the bearing to make noise but when you drive constant speed or do just moderate acceleration during driving noise is not generated as acceleration force is not big enough to cause problem.

    If it is bearing issue you could try lubricating the bearing but it is very difficult to do and probably requires removal of the clutch and pulley that turns the compressor.

    $500 is not bad for AC compressor change as just the part for my car costs almost that. I guess the mechanic was talking about the cost for the compressor, not it installed. For the job you need to re-charge the system and to do that correctly the system must be vacuumed first after compressor change. And if you are to have compressor changed you probably want to replace expansion valve and the AC dryer canister too. At least that is what I would do if I had to replace my compressor.

    With all this work and parts you might be looking a bill around $800 instead of $500 so please do yourself a favor. Try the oil charge first as if the compressor is just running little dry it might save you that $800!

    Arrie
  • esther08esther08 Member Posts: 3
    The rear air doesn't work on my '02 tahoe. I checked the fuses in the box but couldn't find any that where blown, any ideas?
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