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Chevrolet Lumina Maintenance and Repair

124

Comments

  • sherriluminasherrilumina Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 chevy lumina. I recently had it in the shop for a problemwith starting. while there they said that the cooling fans were not coming on and that it was because of a relay switch that was stuck. They said that they cleaned it and now it is working, but I never hear the fans coming on. How do I tell if they are and where do I find the switch to clean it off myself if it's not working?
  • slindemanslindeman Member Posts: 1
    Ok so i got the power steering pump put in but i guess it only came with one screw and it needed three so my belt came off. Now i am wondering if i need to buy a new pump or if i can just get the screws and serpentine belt?
  • lacmarinelacmarine Member Posts: 2
  • jonboy85jonboy85 Member Posts: 3
    Hi.

    I have a 1994 Lumina Sedan with grinding front-end brakes. Could this just be a sticky brake caliper? Or is it just a worn-to-the-knub disc shoe? I'm putting it in the shop tomorrow AM, but just thought I'd ask.

    Thanks!
  • villacrazyvillacrazy Member Posts: 2
    I have a 97 Lumina,that will tirn over but wont fire,then back fires,,what is wrong?
  • lumina99lumina99 Member Posts: 2
    I have a '99 lumina 3.1, if I leave the car parked for a couple of days the battery will go dead and have to jump start the car. Replaced the battery about 2 months ago with a new one and the problem is still there. Any suggestion please?
  • kelly_bear92kelly_bear92 Member Posts: 1
    Okay. Im only 16 years old, so lord knows i dont know what im doing... but this is my first car, and the last 2 days that I have drove it, my car has overheated and started smoking. I got someone to look at it, and they said that it was leaking antifreeze. They changed my antifreeze and put more in it. Well my temperature still keeps rising and still overheats and smokes. I dont know what to do.

    Another problem is every since I got the car, when I change the gears, the car jerks pretty bad. My brother told me it was nothing, but a friend of mine said I need to have it looked at. Does anyone know what could be wrong with it/.
  • woodyonewoodyone Member Posts: 8
    Find thesource of the leak. Ask someone with experience.

    I assume you have a stick shift. If so check the clutch.
    If it is an automatic check the transmission!
  • tlstonertlstoner Member Posts: 4
    I got a 1999 lumina 3.1 automatic. Its been running great since we got it about 4 years ago. just normal maintenance, battery, and starter last year. It's got 198,000 miles on it and ran fine until today. Drove to take my daughter to dentist, no problem, got back in to leave and it won't turn over. The dash lights come on, window's work, just won't turn over with the key. I can jump across the solenoid on the starter and it turns over, start's, then dies after about 3 second's. Any advise would be appreciated.
  • mcdiarmidmcdiarmid Member Posts: 13
    It could be your passkey/passlock system. When the key is in the 'On' position, does your security light flash?
  • tlstonertlstoner Member Posts: 4
    Yes the security light is flashing. I didn't notice it earlier. Now how do I fix it?
  • proto_callproto_call Member Posts: 1
    well i can tell you right now if you have a coolant leak thats not visible your lookin at a gasket leak becuase i had the same thing and unless you have someone that knows how to take apart an engine and put it back together your looking at alot of money to fix the problem but if you dont fix it it'll get worse over time and your car will lose 99.9% of its balls if it hasn't already.
    the gasket for a lumina isn't very expensive but it is alot of work
    you best bet is to get a pressure test to see where the leaks coming from and if it doesn't show anything then your pretty much screw (gaskets)
  • djanetdjanet Member Posts: 1
    I got one too
    The previous owner put a kill switch on it just have to remember to use it.
  • jmckenzie1jmckenzie1 Member Posts: 2
  • goobygooby Member Posts: 2
    The problem is in the steering column and it is a faulty turn signal switch. See my post under gooby from this same date.
  • boss80boss80 Member Posts: 5
    my problem is my act like it's not getting any gas after running for a while and cuts off in drive neutral reverse even while driving if someone can help it is truly appreciated thank you
  • boss80boss80 Member Posts: 5
    i need to know why my car cuts off while driving and why it hesitates i changed the tps an it ran fine for 2 days then it started back now it act like it want to back fire what could cause this please help
  • tlstonertlstoner Member Posts: 4
    I got it fixed.There is a orange flat wire (actually 2 wires together in the insulation) that run up the steering column. What I had to do was measure the resistance across the resistor in my key. I then cut these wires and soldered resistors about the same resistance from one wire to the other. Started right up and haven't had any problem with it since. I know this bypasses the security key system but didn't want to spend $400 at dealer, just $2 at radio shack. Took about 15 min.
  • timok1timok1 Member Posts: 2
    Howdy I got a code 28 which relates to a trans range pressure switch circuit. OK so where on a 4t60e or 4t65e trans might one expect to locate this animal. And can it be replaced serviced without trans dis assembly. Thanks Tim

    95 lumina LS given to my wife as birth day present by FIL with SES light as bonus ribbon
  • mcdiarmidmcdiarmid Member Posts: 13
    First of all, have you recently done a transmission service? Flush and fill with a new filter? This can cause a code if the filter is pluged. You may also have dirt buidup in that switch. It`s alot of work but it can be done. You have to remove the tranny cover from the drivers side of the tranny. You`d have to loosen the engine cradle bolts and lower the engine to access the cover through the drivers side front wheel well. You`re best to either let someone do it who knows how, or get yourself a good service manual. I have done this on 2 different cars and it takes a good 6 hours.

    Ian
  • timok1timok1 Member Posts: 2
    No I haven't serviced the trany. But I will ASAP and see if it changes the code .

    On a side note, A warning to all the Northern salt subjected Lumina and similar cars.
    Look over your trailing arms . Why you ask? Answer; because they can and will rust in half:, just as mine did on the drivers side. Causes quite a bit of havoc and drivability issues not to mention rips the,speed sensor wires out of the pac connectors . This problem happened to my wife and her dad on the trip from Ceder Rapids,IA to Ardmore,OK. They drove it 400 miles this way . Timok1
  • crashbikescrashbikes Member Posts: 1
    hope you fixed it.if not spray carburator cleaner on the vaccum lines with the car running. if theres a leak the engine will rev up
  • boss80boss80 Member Posts: 5
    no i haven't fixed it yet. is the vacuum line the lines that run from the top of the throttle body
  • elaine424elaine424 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1995 Chevy Lumina APV I keep having a clunking noise from the rear when applying the break and even when just driving. Sometimes sounds like a popping noise like when something heats up and cools down. I have had it in the garage 3 times, have all new brakes, they did a major check with a major bill to go with it but it is still there. Any ideas?

    This vehicle had wiper problems, door lock problems and has even stalled when putting it into gear. Starts great, is fine in neutral but stalls when put into drive.

    I bought it used from a dealer 7 weeks ago.
  • mcdiarmidmcdiarmid Member Posts: 13
    edited May 2010
    Did you have your rear drums turned? I had the same problem and it actually sounded like a loud clicking noise. Had it on and off for a long time. Got the rotors turned/machined and it`s NEVER done it since. The drums were new as well, but still needed to be 'trued' as they say. It`s cheap to get done.
    As for the stalling, it may be a TPS (throtle Position Sensor). This adjusts engine speed when you put a load on it like putting it into drive. Does your idle drop if you're in Park or neutral and you put the A/C on and turn the fan to full? There`s also an issue with some of these cars and the torque convertor locking up randomly in the transmission.

    Hope that helps a little.

    Ian
  • elaine424elaine424 Member Posts: 2
    I mentioned that to the garage and they said the rear drums are fine. I seriously don't think they know what they are looking for. When I brought the vehicle in after my many stalls trying to get to the garage, they couldn't start it either. When they called me later in the day , I mentioned the torque converter lockup, they said they cleaned up the area and runs fine. Never got a work order and after insisting on one for a week I got a scribbled note on scrap paper stating it was a wire needed replacing.

    As for the A/C, they now informed me it does not work after telling me it worked fine when buying it. So they removed something from the A/C stating that may have caused a problem.

    I don't want to take it back to them without an idea of what could be wrong because they have not fixed the problems yet, only bandage solutions.
  • mcdiarmidmcdiarmid Member Posts: 13
    I've learned to do most of my repairs myself. Im fortunate I know. It`s my lack of trust of mechanics that forced me to learn....enough said.
    I bought brand new drums for the rear and put them on. Still had a clicking noise when braking...especially as the car slowed down. There was a slight pulsation when braking. Tried new front rotors. Didn't help. Sometimes they still clicked when I drove. Nothing seemed to help until an old GM mechanic said they ALWAYS turned new drums. I also used Monroe brake shoes. They are a higher end shoe. Not sure if they made a difference. Anyways, I have NOT heard the clicking since. This Lumina car is a taxi and I`ve driven almost 50 000Kms since having the rotors turned. It was really an embarrassment that I'm glad is gone.
    Find a better mechanic. Ask around...everyone you know. Ask them about their experiences good and bad. As for the stalling....I'll look around to see what I can find. The torque convertor is IN the transmission....not sure what they cleaned. You can't reach it unless you remove the transmission from the car! Maybe they cleaned the TPS switch.

    Ian
  • ladyfavoredladyfavored Member Posts: 3
    I have to replace the fuel pump inside the gas tank. Should I replace the sending unit also? Do I need to replace anything else while doing this job?

    Thank You,
    Lady*
  • mcdiarmidmcdiarmid Member Posts: 13
    If you can get a used pump at an auto wreckers, they usually include the sending unit with the pump assembly. I`ve done this twice now and all has been fine. Ask them to find you a pump from a car that has low mileage....don`t assume they`ll do that automatically. It`s always a good idea to replace the fuel filter but, only if you haven`t done so for awhile. Some might argue that you should replace the rubber O-ring at the top of the tank. Again, it`s up to you. If it`s damaged then it has to be replaced because the gas tank depends on vacuum for emmissions etc.

    Ian
  • ladyfavoredladyfavored Member Posts: 3
    Thank you Ian. Advice taken. I talked to the service department and they now are saying to purchase a fuel pump with a spout, but couldn't really explain what a spout was. The price jumped up to 358.00 from 248.00. I called an auto parts store and asked them and they did not know exactly what that meant either. Anyone?
  • ba_burbanba_burban Member Posts: 1
    hi there just curious if you fixed the problem with the lumina, on the no start or crank problem i think i have the same problem, power from battery is good, everything work but doens send juice to the starter, ran fine before so parked today, all fuses are good and connections seem good? not sure if you figured it out or not, please let me know thanks
  • shabbyshabby Member Posts: 1
    There are some moaning sounds on my 2007 Chevy Lumina coming when I push the accerlerator. This happens when the AC is turned on. I took it to the Garage who changed the AC Compressor. The sound still comes.. Anyone has any idea whats wrong?
  • boogermacboogermac Member Posts: 1
    Hi Folks,

    Anyone know where I can find a free download 2001 Lumina sedan repair manual, or for today, at least an electrical diagram? I'm trying to repair the blower control circuit which seems to have a number of relays besides the manual knob speed control.

    Thanks in advance!

    boogermac
  • mcdiarmidmcdiarmid Member Posts: 13
    There is one relay for all the fan speeds which is under the passenger side dash, next to or behind the blower motor. It can be a challenge to get it out. Does the high speed work on the fan? Usually the other speeds bow out one at a time unless the whole relay is gone.
    Try to buy a subscription to http://www.alldatadiy.com. It`s a very good online service and repair guide. It also has TSBs on various issues with your year car. It`s worth the money!

    Ian
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    Hello Shabby,
    Did you contact the dealership and explain that you are still experiencing sounds from your vehicle? Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • johnnyjack1959johnnyjack1959 Member Posts: 2
    I have change the fuel filter and now I have been told that it could be the fuel pump where is this at and how much does it cost? thanks
  • villacrazyvillacrazy Member Posts: 2
  • blue760blue760 Member Posts: 4
    I know this is a long time before answering, but hopefully will help someone else,
    unless you know a good, cheap mechanic, the answer to the "battery bleeding
    down, and vehicle not starting" is to install a "kill" switch. it is about a $20 item
    or so at Advance auto, it looks like a swivel blade between two separate sets of
    clamps, approx 3 or 4 inches apart. if you install it yourself, be extremely care-
    not to "ground out" the positive side against the vehicle, just disconnect the
    negative connection before beginning. be sure to tighten the connection to the
    vehicle before connecting to the battery, to avoid putting too much pressure
    on the battery, while tightening the connections. the cost of "troubleshooting"
    the electrical problem is not worth it, several people have spent hundreds of
    dollars, and still didn't find the problem, the "kill switch" will solve the problem,
    unless, of course, there is a short in the system, in which case, it should have
    blown a fuse. mine did not, and with 315,000 miles on a '98 chevy lumina, it is
    not worth spending a lot of money for this problem, although I do expect to
    drive this vehicle for another 100,000 miles, at least. good luck to everybody,
    and Happy Halloween!!!!!!!!! Boo!!!!!!!
  • graham66graham66 Member Posts: 13
    I had this exact problem..... Check the obvious, glove box bulb and trunk lid bulb if they are installed.
    Mine ended up being one of the electric lock switches... it would toggle to the open position and not spring back.. so it was as if someone was holding it down. battery would last about 2-3 days like that...
    See that this post is old, but it might help someone else in the future
  • lumina99lumina99 Member Posts: 2
  • ace007dogace007dog Member Posts: 3
    I just did a tune up on My 92 Chevy Lumina 3.1. In this tune up I changed the following:
    - Spark Plugs (gaped correctly to .045)
    - Plug wires
    - Oil and filter
    - Air Filter
    Prior to this my car idled fine but when I accelerated it would hesitate for a sec then it would accelerate just fine. I figured it being an older car with 200k miles it was probably a vacuum leak or something small. It ran great for 2 days after the tune up, then on the third morning my car would turn over but wouldn't start. Not really sure what the issue could be, seeing that the work I did was minor. I proceeded with changing the fuel filter. After changing the fuel filter, my car started right up and ran great for about 35min. I drove it around, turned it off, and started it continually for about 1 hour after that, and everything seemed fine. Then about 6 hours later, I tried starting it up again and the same issue... Just turning over but not firing up. Generally after about an evening of sitting, I'll attempt to start and it sputters for about 1/2 second then nothing... Just turning over without starting up. Any help or Ideas would be excellent. Also, I've been driving this car around for the last year without ever any start up issues as described before the tune up. Thanks, Ace
  • mcdiarmidmcdiarmid Member Posts: 13
    So, do you have a check engine light on? There are several components that monitor the engine. It could be a simple issue. For example: Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), or Crankshaft or Camshaft Position Sensors, a MAP or MAF sensor could be a problem too. The problem is, is that without a check engine light on and a code, it`s harder to pinpoint. The slight hesitation before throttle up suggests one of the above sensors as the computers seems to be trying to compensate for a problem (thus the hesitation). Also the starting issue lends towards a sensor problem as well.
    If your Check Engine Light is on, there might be a way for you to read the codes yourself.

    Let me know and I`ll try to help!

    Ian
  • ace007dogace007dog Member Posts: 3
    Ian, Thanks for your response. Unfortunately the check engine light has never come on. I am wondering if during my changing of the rear 3 spark plugs, where I removed the alternator to gain access, I may have not connected one of the sensors completely. There is a sensor I unplugged and plugged back in that had a small vacuum line at the bottom of it. Not sure what this is, but this is the only sensor that I recall removing during the spark plug change. I don't know if this helps. Thanks, Ace
  • ace007dogace007dog Member Posts: 3
    Compounded with the issue that I stated previous, now my car wont crank. I turn the key, I don't hear the fuel pump "buzz", there is plenty of juice in the battery and now no click or nothing, the car wont crank. Any possibilities that these issues are related? Any help, Thanks.
  • mcdiarmidmcdiarmid Member Posts: 13
    Is there an 'auxiliary' batter post near a fuse box in that vehicle? I had issues with my `95 Lumina where the bolt that holds the main power wire from the alternator was loose. This wire comes directly from the starter motor which comes directly from the alternator. Also, try tightening the wires on the starter motor itself. Thirdly, tighten all ground wires to the motor..especially the one that comes from the battery`s negative side. My Lumina had issues with the starter and that was the reason....loose/slightly corroded power wires. Some nuts may only turn 1/8th of a turn but that can make all the difference.

    Do you have a GM security system in that vehicle? Pass key or VATS system? If you turn the key to 'ON', does the security light flash?

    Let me know. Even if you unplugged a wire from that purge solenoid valve, the car would still start....it has nothing to do with cranking.

    Ian
  • rusty10chevrusty10chev Member Posts: 1
    cig ligther fuse is blown just replace
  • amerida888amerida888 Member Posts: 3
    ok so my car was fine about 4 hours ago. I just tried to start it up and it turned over for a second then stopped, so i tried it again and all it does is make kind of a clicking sound or humming soumd. what could this be from? i tried tapping the starter a little but that still didnt help. i dont think that is the problem. . please help!!!
  • mcdiarmidmcdiarmid Member Posts: 13
    If you heard a noise other than the click or nothing, might be time to change the starter. You might be able to get a used one for next to nothing. Can you or someone you know do the work?

    Did you try to tighten the wires?
  • amerida888amerida888 Member Posts: 3
    yes i have tried cleaning them and tightening them. . i even tapped on the starter to try to get it going. i dont think it is the starter. .
  • mcdiarmidmcdiarmid Member Posts: 13
    edited April 2011
    Well, have you tested your battery? Tapping the starter doesn`t always work! There`s only so many things that can be wrong. Heres how I determine whats wrong:
    First, I check the charging system. I take an voltage meter and check the voltage from the red wire off the alternator and the ground (usually a metal part of the engine) with the engine running. If its below 13 volts, the alternator is bad. If its above 13, then I turn the car off and have the battery tested. You can by a battery tester for around $30 OR take out the battery and take it to a local garage and have them check it. If the battery is good and you`ve cleaned and tightened all the wires, then it IS the starter motor thats bad. It really is that simple....thats the good news. If you`'re broke, just by a used starter.
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