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GMC Yukon / Yukon Denali

1…5859606163

Comments

  • 95c22095c220 Member Posts: 3
    Any one know the best place to buy an 2033 GMC Yukon XL AC compressor?
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Don't think they make those yet.
  • goodjeansgoodjeans Member Posts: 1
    My Yukon's driver's side window was working fine. Then it stopped all of a sudden with just a clicking sound when I hit the button. A little while later it began working again. It worked for a week, then rose slowly this morning. Is it the motor? What could be the problem. The other three windows work fine. Thanks. I am in the wrong forum but couldn't figure out where to post on gmc Yukon.
  • rshtrsht Member Posts: 277
    If your Yukon is still under warranty, bring it to your GMC Service Department and have it checked/repaired. Otherwise, I would remove the switch panel out of the handle and disconnect the plug to your driver side window (make sure you know the wiring scheme first) then by-pass the switch to open/close the window with a jumper wire (probably a 12 or 14 GA wire) to determine if its the switch that's faulty or really the motor...

    PLEASE NOTE, if you jump the wrong leads, you may potentially fry the motor and even your electrical system, so do this at your own risk. Make sure you know what you are doing, or leave it to your GMC professionals. Good Luck!
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    GM is famous for motor failure on their power windows. 99% probablility on that one. Rarely, if ever, does the switch fail.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Seems odd to me that the motor wouldn't just quit, but would try to work in fits and starts. But I'm no mechanic... (but I do have a window switch in my Nissan that carbons up now and then and gets flaky).
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    At one time GM used to sell the switch and motor together. They had so many failed motors that they discontinued the practice in order to save money on the switches. Especially when performed under warranty.

    Been there done that several times. 2000 Silverado, 2002 Yukon Denali or the GMT 800 platform.
  • rudepuprudepup Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I have a 1995 yukon that had manual seats witha power lumbar control I am converting it to a set of full power ones my wiring harness has two orange and one black wire the new seats have two orange anoe black and one brown. What does the brown do?
  • gmhellmangmhellman Member Posts: 121
    I just purchased a loaded 05 Yukon SLT with 56000 miles for 18,550 from a dealer. I am just wondering what things/hardware people have put on their engines to get a better gas mileage return. Has anyone tried these new pulseplugs that I have seen advertised in MotorTrend and TruckTrend? Are they really as good as they say in terms of mileage and gas mpg return vs per se a platinum or platinum four prong plug? K&N air filter vs air intake?

    Thanks
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Save your money. Good wires and plugs can be found at any auto parts store as long as they are platinum. K&N? forget it. Course there are a lot of people that have purchased one including me. For myself all I gained was incab noise and nothing as far as mpg. I've uninstalled mine and sold it on ebay.

    There are those that will swear to mileage increases and power gains, however, thrown on a dyno will result in an added bill for the dyno testing and results that will certainly disappoint.

    My 2 cents.
  • rshtrsht Member Posts: 277
    I would make sure all the oil and fluids are fresh with new filters where applicable. For the engine, transfer case and axles, I would replace the old fluids with synthetic oil and new gaskets. If anything else, I would try a bottle of Fuel System cleaner too. I agree with the "obyone" about using a new set of platinum plugs and good quality spark plug wires. If you only want more power and don't care about the mpg, then consider those after market add-on stuff, like the air filter/kit, flow-through exhaust system and etc. I am one of those people who have been there and done that... and learned my lesson. Oh! also to keep your tire pressure in proper rang will help some too on the mpg.
  • gmhellmangmhellman Member Posts: 121
    I appreciate all of the responses. I am a huge supporter of Mobil 1 synthetic and will use that at the next oil change. I plan on getting a fresh air filter asap and will change the tranny and diff fluids on my next service. The vehicle only has 55000 miles or so on it so when it hits 100000 I will change the plugs and wires. Any comments on a high quality/good reliability brand of air/oil filters, and plugs and wires? This vehicle has been impeccably maintained and I will keep it that way.

    Thanks
  • rshtrsht Member Posts: 277
    Likewise, I also use only Mobil 1 on my mine, with AC Delco Oil (PF-48) and air filters. Although I use Mobil 1 synthetic oil, I still change it and the filter every 6 months or sooner. I know there are also other brands of synthetic oil (e.g. Royal Purple, Amsoil and etc.), but I don't quite care for the price nor think their extended oil change recommendation works for me. I just don't feel comfortable change my oil only once a year, seems too long to me.

    As far as spark plugs, I only use Denso Iridium plugs; as for the wireset I have not changed mine yet, but will likely to find the replacement when the time comes through the GM parts direct:
    http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results.cfm?perfPackages=1&pkgid=111
    But, there are many selections of spark plug wires out there (e.g. MSD, etc...), you may want to make sure length wise fits nicely (or custom fit) and make sure they are 8mm wires.
  • nichole523nichole523 Member Posts: 1
    I feel your pain! I have a 2004 Yukon with no instrument cluster and now I have the same problem...did you ever find a solution??? My husband is very good w/vehicles and is at his witts end....high payment, cant afford $365.00 for the cluster let alone to fix this...Im going to have to let it go back. Im not dealing w/this all winter!! Varney's GMC in Bangor, Maine, where I bought this pile of crap, told me this morning that not even they have a solution. Go Figure. I WILL NEVER BUY A GM PRODUCT AGAIN!!!!!!
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    You may want to write up a review in Dealer Ratings and Reviews.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • mlalarsenmlalarsen Member Posts: 1
    does anyone know how to change the temperature readout on the rear view mirror of an 03 denali from celsius to fahrenheit? I don't have an owners manual and it's driving me crazy that I can't change to fahrenheit and have my readout in celsius...thanks in advance!
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I don't know how to fix your temp, but you should be able to download an owner's manual.

    How To Find Your Car Owner's Manual Online
  • bravomachadobravomachado Member Posts: 2
    How do you adjust your headlights.
  • gmseagle1gmseagle1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 yukon denali its hard to start. 2 months ago I was sitting in traffic and it started missing and when I gave it gas it wouldnt go. we changed the fuel filter thought it was fixed (still not starting good). then I was driving (2 months later) the same thing happened. I couldnt hardly get to a parking space it would not move. It idles fine but when you give it gas it boggs down, back fires,and wont go. Put it in the shop changed plug wires, crank sensor, battery. Still not starting good. fuel pump also checked o.k. Please help
  • denalidaddenalidad Member Posts: 4
    Has anyone heard of a factory subwoofer that would be located in rr drivers side compartment in back of vehicle where the plastic has a spot that looks to be for a subwoofer? I am told that this was an option from the factory that came with an amp attached right to the subwoofer and wired into existing bose system as option.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    The factory manual indicates what you state to be correct.
  • nrogersnrogers Member Posts: 3
    My 2003 denali is starting to have some issues that are driving me nuts. First of all the speedometer needle is stuck facing down(as if I drove 140mph and it got stuck down there). Of course I never drove that fast. Anyone know how to fix this or how much it is going to cost? Also, I am getting a driver door ajar message and the lights come on and off while I am driving as well as the door locking and unlocking. I notice this started when we had a lot of rain but it went away originally. Now it is not going away. Any idea how to fix this without getting a loan to pay for it?
  • paulkcpaulkc Member Posts: 2
    My Yukon's check engine light is on and it feels like its going to die at stoplights. I had a buddy check the codes and 3 popped up: too lean, multiple misfires and low voltage. BUT the problem is inconsisent! It will sometimes run okay and theres no problems when idling in Park except check engine light is still on. Weather doesn't seem to be a concern, as it did it in 1 degree weather and also 38 degree weather, (crazy Kansas weather!)

    I have a new battery in it, (less than 1 month), and dealership advised alternator was fine when they put it in.

    Described problem to dealership and they think it might be an intake manifold gasket shrinking up in the cold...BUT...it was fineuntil a few days ago when it had sat in the 1 degree cold all night. It ran for @ 30 minutes around town then when I strarted it up again, it started this problem. The plugs are iridium and should be good til 100k miles.

    Any ideas are greatly appreciated, as I dont have much $$$ to pay somone for hours of poking around.
    Thanks!
    Paul, Overland Park KS
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Check engine light is usually associated with emissions. In your situation it seems like it could be the MAF sensor as it leans or enriches the amount of fuel to air mixture based on air intake temperature. I would find it unusual as the MAF isn't known to fail on the Yukon, but there are instances where I've seen them in need of replacement.
  • paulkcpaulkc Member Posts: 2
    HA! At first the dealership said it was fuel injectors which had fouled up. THEN after making it 100 yards out of the dealership, it acted up again, so after another 24 hours, they advised it was the catalytic converter, which was causing the back pressure problem and apparently fouling up everything else. Hopefully they will test drive it this time, cuz I will have had this rental car for almost 10 days!
    Thanks for the info.
    Paul
  • DookiefanDookiefan Member Posts: 1
    I have recently had both my front heated seats stop working on me. Neither of the lights come on, I am thinking its a relay, but not sure which one? I was looking last night and there are multiple clusters, Can anyone help?
    Also I have an obnoxious rattle/squeak in my passenger side dash? sounds like it is deep into the dash, any thoughts?
    thanks for your help!~
  • fongerellifongerelli Member Posts: 28
    I need to raise the front a little how do I adjust the torsion bar?
  • rshtrsht Member Posts: 277
    I am not absolutely sure about your particular year model, however, the torsion bar adjustment is done by turning the torsion bar adjustment bolt (follow each torsion bar from the lower control arm toward the mid section of the vehicle, you should find the adjustment bolt at about the section below/behind the driver seat for the left side and opposite for right) . It will be much easier to turn each bolt if you jack up the front end (you can do this one side at a time) by the frame to take the weight off of the front suspension. Find a reference point on each side and take initial measurements before making the adjustment; measure each side of the SUV again after adjustment to make sure both sides were raised to the same height. You may need to have the alignment checked after adjusting the torsion bars...
  • fongerellifongerelli Member Posts: 28
    Thanks for all the advice and it worked! It raised the front end about an inch which gave me more room for my 35 x 12.50 x 16.5" mud tires! I'm still hitting the windshield tank when I turn hard right though. I shaved as much as possible without any leakage. I might have to move it foward or up or re-position it elsewhere? Any thoughts on this anyone?
  • fongerellifongerelli Member Posts: 28
    Has anyone ever repositioned the sensors on the Yukon to make it higher? I would like to try this and is it safe? Please advise anyone.
  • rshtrsht Member Posts: 277
    I take it that you are talking about the Electronic Air-shock/Auto-leveling system? If yes, I have helped my friend with his Suburban where we only re-adjusted the linkage to each position sensor to raise the rear end higher by just about an inch. If I recall correctly, we only extended the link rod by about half a turn. You may want to double check on your particular model if the link rod needs to be extended or shortened to raise/lower the ride height... By the way, I recall seeing some sort of acceptable range limit/specification in doing this kind of adjustments, you probably can find such information in one of the GM Service Manuals.
  • fongerellifongerelli Member Posts: 28
    thanks a lot for the infor. Have you tried adjusting the torsion bar? That brought it about an inch but it has some side affects, at 45 the stering wheel shakes (and its not the balance on the wheels) Which way to turn them? I see them and just wanted to know exactly which rod to turn, I turn it shorter or towards the body or clockwise? Please advise.
  • rshtrsht Member Posts: 277
    I only done that on a Land Cruiser in the past; the ride height change will impact the wheel alignment setting, but not on wheel balance. As far as the shakes you are experiencing, since after your height adjustment, have you had the wheels realigned?
  • tborchmantborchman Member Posts: 7
    i have a 2003 yukon xl and just this week we have noticed that the steering wheel vibrates even at low speeds. just ad steering linkage replaced in jan. any suggestions as to what the problem could be?
  • fongerellifongerelli Member Posts: 28
    check your wheel balances and how many miles do you have on the yukon? I had my tie rods changed at 75k and I only have 99k now. Several places wanted me to change my pitman arm, idler arm and inter and outer tie rods and aligment which will cost approx 1,000. Which I don't have. So a friend of mine that works at wheels work came over and said to fill my boots on the sterring links that have zert fittings with grease and guess what? No more shimming at certain speeds!!! Unbelievable! All this time I took it to the dealer to have an oil and lube to my Yukon and when I took off the shield plate (2) on my Yukon, I discovered that none of the zert fitting were lubed. They were dry, so I filled them up with grease and the problem went away for me. I don't know what you have done with yours but check that first before spending lots of money for nothing.
  • tborchmantborchman Member Posts: 7
    we have 44,000 and we are the original owners
  • fongerellifongerelli Member Posts: 28
    that is low miles. Did you change the wheels or do anything different? Does it vibrate all the time or only at certain speeds?
  • fongerellifongerelli Member Posts: 28
    So you have added the sterring linkage, did it start to vibrate right after the installation of this linkage? And why was the linkage replaced?
  • djtwisteddjtwisted Member Posts: 4
    i know about the speedometer problem and it was about $12 or so and alittle bit of electrical knowledge and time. (about 30 min) The instrument cluster has stepper motors that run the needles in the cluster. you can search the stepper motor on ebay and get them cheap. You will need to take the cluster out of the dash and disassemble it then you will have to pull the needles off the motors. But before you do this rotate the needles all the way to the left so you can match them up when replacing them. It also helps to mark where the needles lay with a pencil so you can erase them later. Pull the electrical circuit board from the plastic housing of the cluster. De-solder the old stepper motor and solder the new one in. Then re-assemble the cluster the same way you took it apart. I forgot, when taking the needles off of the cluster, it helps to use a fork to help you pull the needles so you don't break them off the shaft of the motors. they might be tight but just pull straight up and don't twist them off. Now with the door, it sounds like maybe one of the door trims that hold the lock buttons for the windows and doors might have had water in them at one time. Or it could be a loose connector in the door trim. Not for sure but i hope this gets you started in the right direction.
  • akblawakblaw Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2008 GMC Yukon XL Denali with the Navigation/Radio. I am trying to turn off the "Limit Features While Driving" but I cannot find that option on any of the menus. The book that came with the vehicle seems to be of no help it directs you to a page that says nothing about how to turn this feature off. Someone please help!! Kip
  • fixitrodfixitrod Member Posts: 67
    The parts bin only has the rear panel which looks like it has a subwoofer but if you look closely thyis is not a grill you cdan see through. Only on the standard DFelco high end streo will a cub be there. I had a 2001 with this scenario. My 2003 came with the Bose setup which is probably what your 2004 has. The amplifier and subwoofer..all 6inches of it are under the center console. Pretty easy to get to. Its a decent system ; all these speakers sound great but remember the fidelity range is very narrow. (I listened to mine for about a year until the head unit broke. I went complete gut and added my own subs , amps etc.) Aftermarket increases this range and allows me to get the volume and flexibility for great bass. Do it you won't regret it if you really like good sounds in your truck
  • fixitrodfixitrod Member Posts: 67
    I got a Chk engine light. I rescrewed the gas cap a couple of times but it came back. I got the code reader out and got the P0101 Mass air flow and VAF. This is one abbreviation I am not familiar with. Any help appreciatedI am not familiar with. It looks like my K&N air filter is pretty dirty so I am going to clean this and see if that addresses it. Any suggestions from the forum needed? I also run a Gibson free flow exhaust so this truck is used to plenty of air if that info will help. I have 4WD, 5.3L 2003 XL
  • rshtrsht Member Posts: 277
    VAF stands for Vane Air Flow, I heard some call it the Vortex Air Flow ...
    With the P0101 code, I would try to clean the MAF sensor area first (only use the spraying force from a spray can to clean the sensor area, Do not brush or touch it, see picture in the second URL below), its a good idea to remove the MAF unit from the vehicle for cleaning. Make sure all is dry before installing the MAF unit back on.
    http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/content/products_ss.aspx?ID=90
    http://www.tccoa.com/club/parts_pics/maf.jpg (for illustration purpose only)
  • fongerellifongerelli Member Posts: 28
    thanks a lot for the info. I have another question in regards to my autoride adjustment. I have 35 inch Mud terrian on there and I would like to raise it another inch or so without the aftermarket lift kits. I know I can do it by adjusting the small rod on the sensor arm but when I look at it I don't see it twist or anything that shows me that it adjust? Can I fabricate a solid piece of steel and bend it and make it a inch or two longer and install it in place of the plastic rod and will that work to raise the yukon up some more? Help!
  • lucy0_0lucy0_0 Member Posts: 6
    i have the code p 1516 is thethrottle actuator control sensor so what should I do follow your instructions or buy the sensor? Please let me know as soon as possible thank You
  • kefrankkefrank Member Posts: 1
    '05 Yukon Denali. Three weeks ago the battery needed jumped. Since then none of the interior lights will not activate when the doors open. They work when the remote control is used to lock and unlock the doors but not when the doors are manually opened. Any suggestions?
  • dounojc1dounojc1 Member Posts: 1
    I thought I would post this to maybe help others with these issues:
    Every since I got my 03 denali used last year, i have had issues with gauges going blank while driving, real wiper running intermittently by itself, radio clock resets to 12:00 every time i turned the key back on, battery draining...... I thought i was going to need a new body control module. Finally after many visits it was diagnosed with caroded ground connections between the body and chassis and engine. 2 hours of shop time to clean the connections and no more problems - sweeeeet.
  • steve4810steve4810 Member Posts: 2
    Just bought a 2005 AWD Denali and found out there are not skid plates from GM. This means I have to shop other places. The thing is I have been at it for a week and haven't been able to find anybody who makes or sells a transfer case skid pan for the AWD box.

    I would really grateful to any one who can help me find off road parts, like the skid plate, for my 2005 Denali.

    I bought it to replace my 1996 GMC Suburban that I had configured perfectly for my use (heavy trailer pulling in the desert and moderate off road desert driving). However a 17 year old kid t-boned me two blocks from home and totaled it.

    The 2005 Denali is a great car but it waay too "city" at the moment. I need nerf bars, skid plates, maybe a small lift and wider 16" all terrain tires (I had a great set of Goodrich LT All Terrain T/A's on the 96 and am considering the same in a wider size for the 2005.)

    Thanks for any help you might give me.
  • buzguybuzguy Member Posts: 1
    duz this thing allow you to play a regular movie dvd in the gps?
    thanx,
    buzguy
  • harleyrdrbrettharleyrdrbrett Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2006 Denali XL and mine doesn't. And it also doesn't even recognize newer versions of Navigational Disks. My friend has a newer Denali and his disks won't work in my Yukon...WTF. This system looks cool but it sucks compared to a 400 dollar Garmin.
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