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Ford Explorer Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,298
    You have a ten year old vehicle that is still covered under an extended warranty? How did you get that?
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    First of all, you have a 10 year old car. They don't run perfectly forever. Secondly, you act as if every Ford made is just like yours, they're not. I've had 8 explorers since 1994, and most of them have been amazingly good and tough. A couple of them had transmission problems, but one was seriously wrecked. They're excellent SUVs, best engineered and designed in the world, and put together fairly well. Yours is an old dud, get over it and get rid of it. No company makes 100% perfect cars, especially after being in service 10 years. :lemon:
  • wog33wog33 Member Posts: 1
    As I was driving I hit a small pothole and the radio went off, fuel gauge stopped working, and power windows stopped working! Now check engine light is on! Any suggestions on problem. All fuses seem to be in working order...
  • h8fordsh8fords Member Posts: 1
    As far as No Power to Windows.. I just fixed this problem last night.
    The wiring harness that goes form door to the body of the car is crap !
    I found 3 broken wires hidden underneath the rubber boot that goes from the door to the body. The power wire for the windows, the main ground wire, and a 3rd smaller wire all were broken.
    For some reason, the wire is cheap, and by opening and closing the door all the time it weakens the wires when they bend and they just break. I fixed all 3 of the wires, and now.. the windows work, the door locks work, the mirrors work, and best of all, the FREAKIN door Ajar light issue that I have had for over a year, is resolved as well.
    Guess this is a common problem with these Fords, and a major headache.
    Good luck !!
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    I had a Buick do this once - it turned out to be a staple through a section of the wiring harness that had worn through the insulation and had shorted out the wires. Problem was finding it. And the other problem is, the windows won't go down, and the A/C won't work, presenting a real problem in the summer! I had to drive around with the door open to breathe.
  • chrish01chrish01 Member Posts: 2
    Hi I have the same problem! How did you fix this problem? Please help, the constant beeping of the door ajar is driving me crazy!!
  • kelseyxokelseyxo Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 ford explorer xlt and when i was driving the suv started to loose power, the rpms wouldnt go over 2000, and it started to loose speed. It would start and drive with difficulty it would only go about ten mph and again the rpms wouldnt go over 2000. After it was towed home it would start and then stall, now it wont even start. I plugged the computer onto the truck and it read cylinder misfires, intake airflow sensor, and mass airflow sensor. I replaced the mass airflow sensor and charged the battery and it made no difference the truck has a full tank of gas and still refuses to turn over. I was told it could possibly be the coil packs or the ignition module. The coil packs are fine but could it be the ignition module and what other possible problems could it have? has anyone had these problems with their explorer? If so how was it fixed? PLEASE HELP I NEED MY TRUCK BACK!
  • mike634mike634 Member Posts: 1
    Had the same issue with mine. The exhaust Y pipe with the catalytic converter was the issue. It was not cheap!!!!
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Yeah, it sounded to me like the cats were plugged. This will slow the engine right down due to back pressure, the exhaust can't get out of the engine. Check that first.....
  • mjeffmjeff Member Posts: 1
    edited November 2011
    Excellent post. I am having the same problem. I can only raise and lower my windows with the door all the way open.

    How did you get to the wires inside the boot? Did you cut it off?

    I appreciate your help.
    Thanks
    Jeff
  • librtr211librtr211 Member Posts: 1
    Did you get it fixed? I have same issues. Windows worked periodically then quit all together. Interior dome light doesn't work, 4X4 lights flash and will not work. ???
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    I highly suspect the Body Control Module. It's rare, but if they go bad, this kind of inexplicable stuff happens. What I recommend is a full reboot, which means disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then rehook. If it continues, you may want to pursue that course. It's hard to find, and quite expensive though - I had this problem in an 06, and sold the car. Got a much better 07. I believe the module is behind a plastic panel somewhere in the rear driver's side. Not positive on that.
  • butcher4ubutcher4u Member Posts: 1
    Yesterday after I started my car and warmed it up, My radio, power windows,interior lights and moonroof stopped working. I checked all fuses and relays. They all seem to be fine. Any ideas out there?
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    See 232 above. I hope I'm wrong.
  • dominic13dominic13 Member Posts: 1
    I had this issue with mine and it was the alternator
  • chrish01chrish01 Member Posts: 2
    I figured out that it is the wiring harness thats causing my electrical issues. How did you get the boot and wires out? Do I have to remove the door?
  • cookfamcookfam Member Posts: 1
    I HAVE A 1997 FORD EXPLORER AND JUST RECENTLY AM EXPERIENCING PROBLEMS STARTING IT. EVERY MORNING AND AFTER WORK I NEED A JUMP. IT STARTS RIGHT UP AS SOON AS CABLES ARE CONNECTED. WHILE RUNNING, EVERYTHING LOOKS LIKE ITS CHARGING. EVERYTHING WORKS FINE. COULD THIS BE THE BEGINNING SIGNS OF ALTERNATOR ISSUES? CONNECTIONS? NEW BATTERY WAS PUT IN THIS SUMMER! CAN ANYONE HELP ME TRY TO NARROW DOWN THE PROBLEM PLEASE?
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Firstly, it could still be the battery, and that is where I would look. I had an identical situation on a 2003. Even a new battery can fail prematurely. And, if it's that new, should be covered.

    Also, check your ALT gauge, if it shows normal charging, most likely your alternator is ok. IF not, that's where you should go first.

    Lastly, it could be a ground connection, or even a loose terminal on the battery.

    But, I'm betting on the battery.
  • janie13janie13 Member Posts: 1
    I purchased a 2002 Explorer Sports Trac which just happened to caught on fire last night. I searched for any recalls that may have been issued on this vehicle. Fortunately my son was able to get out of the truck in time. He was traveling on the freeway, when the truck all of the sudden died he coasted to the inside lane. When he tried to restart the truck smoke came out and flames shout out under the drivers door. He managed to get out and the next thing the entire truck caught on fire. Has anyone ever reported any cases such as this and what are my options at this point? I will still have to pay on the vehicle since I only financed for 18 mos and had liability. Who do I need to address on this issue. Of course purchased as is but in a situation like this what can I do. I'm out the money and out the vehicle.
  • chloe14chloe14 Member Posts: 4
    my miles per gallon computer/info has gone way down since using the 4 high for one day last week, it will not come back up and seems to be haywire, any ideas?
  • chloe14chloe14 Member Posts: 4
    I could add to that class action suit as at 72,000 miles my transmission was replaced due to unpredictable, dangerous stalling while driving 75 miles per hour on a freeway, a ford dealer told me to replace the transmission as the transmissiom head had completely cracked?
    I have since read on this blog of a similar problem that some one else had and they only replaced the V2V valve, now am wondering if I got taken by ford yet again, anyway I have also had to replace the ball joints in front at 72000 miles, so I would be interested in a suit
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    This sucks, but you may have no recourse. This is not common, but there was a recall on SOME Ford trucks about a speed control connection that could cause a fire. I have no idea if your truck was included in the recall. Also, if so, it may have already been fixed. Otherwise, it's not a design flaw on the truck. Apparently you don't what the cause was, so I don't either.
    Could be electrical, or fuel, like a burst pressure hose that was spilling gas, which caught fire? Who knows?

    It's 10 years old, old cars have issues. Very sad this happened, it's not your fault, but not likely anybody's fault. It's not
    Ford's fault, their Explorers are generally very durable and dependable. More likely a mechanic error, left a clamp off or maybe a bad piece of tube or hose?

    Yes, you'll have to pay for the car, and if you didn't have Comprehensive insurance, you aren't covered. As I said, it sucks, and I feel very badly for you. :sick:
  • miky64miky64 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1997 explorer lt trac con 4 dr it seems my sebser on the door light st ys on for about 20 mins or more .it seems to kill my battery .and then sometimes it goes out .did u ever have a problem with a funny noise in the left front wheel .it seems if u are going 80 kms its not to bad but when u it ,100 kms.its bad can it be a bearing fr sitting .and wear is the sencer for the dome lights .can u help .mat be able to set it .thanks mike
  • rob911rob911 Member Posts: 2
    i have a 95 ford explorer with 4.0 liter motor.ive replaced plug wires 5 times and plugs 3 times.used belden wires last time and autolite platinum plugs.runs great for an hour or so then misses really bad like its missing 2 cyl. im stumped now.what could cause this??
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    No check engine light or other lights on? When you take the old plugs out, what's their condition? Wet? Oily? Carboned up? One set of new cables would do it, so stop changing those. How many miles are on it? The 4.0 is a damn good engine, even if abused, it will last a long time.
  • rob911rob911 Member Posts: 2
    no check engine light.plugs look fine when i remove them.cleaned the air idle control.when its first cranked up it runs like a new explorer.has 1000000 miles. can be running great and stop to get gas an cut it off then it misses.idled it for 2 hours one day before it started missing. after putting several plug wire sets in noticed i could see sum spark in wires.used wire covers for last set of beldens put on. the running great at start then swithing to bad miss is whats throwing me off.
  • laura2004explrlaura2004explr Member Posts: 1
    I have put 140K miles on my 2004 Explorer. Among the usual issues over the years, it now has blinkers that have decided to work only when they want to. When they are not in the mood to blink, they just stay on. Cold, heat, use, length of time car has been on; there seems to be no common factor. Any ideas?
  • aschramekaschramek Member Posts: 1
    2007 Sport Trac V8 4.2L warning system periodically indicates "check charging system". I had the alternator bench checked at a local parts store, but with several attempts they cannot get it to display a failed test.

    I know that the alternator works (at least most of the time because the battery stays charged) and might just periodically fail (diode stuck open?). I'd hate to replace the alternator just to find that the system indicator is actually triggered by some other component.

    Has anyone had similar symptoms and found a different cause of the problem?
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    You need a new blinker switch, goes in your fuse panel and looks like a small tin cup. Pull it out, put in a new one.
  • rzaruizrzaruiz Member Posts: 1
    I've never been a Ford person but since i married into one i have no choice but to try and see if there's anything i can do. I recently purchased new tires for my husbands truck and went to a Ford Dealership to have the car aligned. I was told this truck couldn't be aligned because there was a part that i needed to install in order to align it. The part runs around $200 to $300 per tire. I may be a woman but I've been maintaining my car for a long time and I've never been told this with my truck or car. Not sure if its a Ford thing but has anyone else been told this with their truck?

    :mad:
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Actually, no. How many miles on her? I can't imagine what it could be..... They RARELY need alignment until they have over 100,000 miles on 'em. Even if they've jumped curbs. They are tough as nails.
  • jdndvrsjdndvrs Member Posts: 1
    We have the same vehicle and just started having the same problem. Have you found out a cure yet. I carry a meter with me and as soon as my warning light comes on, I check and it is charging anywhere from 13.64 to 13.f1 volts, depending on what is on.
  • SonofabuickSonofabuick Member Posts: 3
    We have 2006 Explorer and the interior dome lights don't work. Now just noticed that the dash instrument lights are out when lights are off (they should be bright). They do work (and dimmer will brighten/dim) when lights are on (both parking and headlamp modes). No fuses seem to be at issue.

    We also cannot get the oil life message reset....

    Help!
  • SonofabuickSonofabuick Member Posts: 3
    I should clarify that the dome light that won't come on is the one in the back (ceiling mount over the back seat). The lights in front (courtesy) do work.
    I tried bulb change to no avail.
  • re_mechre_mech Member Posts: 1
    I have a '99 XLT. The radio has been intermittent for a few weeks. I pulled it out and found a bare, uninsulated wire in the wire harness. I don't think it is structural in any way. It just seems wrong. There is no signs of damage. I can't tell where it goes without unraveling the entire bundle. Anyone ever seen this?
  • sheila2012sheila2012 Member Posts: 1
    Last week it was raining so I had my wipers on. I smoke so my window was down a lil bit. I got to work that night and I let the window up and turned off the ignition. 8 hours later I get in and the wipers are on. I tried to turn them off but they were stick on. I could not change the setting.. they were stuck on one speed. The windows would not go down on any window... and when I leave my key in the ignition the ding ding does not happen. Anything simple that would explain this?
  • khan11khan11 Member Posts: 1
    HI ALL, THE MESSAGE CENTER ON MY EXPLORER 2003 IS BLACK IT DOES NOT DISPLAY ANY MESSAGES, CAN ANY ONE ADVICE HOW CAN IT BE FIXED. THIS IS HOW IT WAS WHEN I BOUGHT IT FROM THIS DUDE AND HE SAID JUST NEED TO RELACE THE SWTICH BOARD BUT THERE WAS NOTHING... PLEASE HELP
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    It's possible you need to push the Info button on the dash, may turn it on. Also, are your instrument panel lights working? If not, it's probably just turned down very low, or off.

    Failing those two possibilities, it will probably need a new panel.
  • juliarosesjuliaroses Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 Explorer Eddie Baurer with approx 44,000 miles. Recently the vehicle eletrical system has gone on the fritz. The temp controls race high then low and the warning lights come on then go off. After this happens the vehicle will not start. Then later it will start and drive with no issues. I repleaced the battery and it happened again. The system chack says everything is fine. Also it has a electric starter that will not function after this happens. Could there be a short in the system?

    TIA
  • johnminnjohnminn Member Posts: 52
    edited January 2013
    When I run into “inexplicable” (what the over????) Electrical problems I check out the grounding points. If you find a grounding point which looks questionable, then disassemble the grounding point, clean it and check the lead wires. Do inspect the connector for corrosion where the wire goes into the lug. I have found connections where the corrosion has worked it’s way up the wire as much as four feet and I had to replace the connector and the wire. IF you find this, be sure that where you make your new connection and wire is WELL sealed and possibly at a low corrosion point.
    When reestablishing the ground point, I use anti corrosive paste and star washers. (Star washer lead(s) star washer, flat washer and then nut or screw). I can not even count the number of times I have found this to be the cure.
    DO NOT replace high buck items unless that component fails on a bench test. For example almost any battery supplier has a tester for testing the battery under load.

    PS: If the grounding point is severely deteriorated, make up a new grounding conductor and add that to the original grounding point and connect the new lead to a good clean chassis point. I have gone so far as to drill a 5/16ths hole in a good clean frame point and then ground the new ground wire there with a bolt and washers and anti corrosive.
  • johnminnjohnminn Member Posts: 52
    PPS: I had a Cadillac which would work properly if the drivers door was open. It turned out that the ground lead from engine to chassis had been ruptured. I repaired that and added another ground from engine to frame. With the broken connection the system had been using the drive shaft to rear differential for ground and the bushing on the transmission tail piece had been “eaten away” and I had to replace the bushing and seal. Why did it work with the drivers door open? I THINK it was using the lighting circuit for a ground.
  • drewsaysdrewsays Member Posts: 1
    I replaced the alternator and battery on the explorer and now when pressing down the gas pedal the car will not accelerate or rev the engine. Any ideas?
  • johnminnjohnminn Member Posts: 52
    edited January 2013
    The most probable cause is that you disturbed the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) connection. The TPS controls the computers response to accelerator position and therefore controls the "revving" of the engine. In you vehicle the TPS is part of the (ETC) Torque-based Electronic Throttle Control system.
    IF you have the Accelerator position sensor located inside the cab at the top of your accelerator, you have a ""drive by wire system" and you will need a good mechanic with the proper test equipment to diagnose the source of your problem. BUT you could check the wiring going to the throttle body. My bet is that you disturbed a wiring connection. You should be getting an engine warning light coming on on your dash. You can read out the codes the hard way if you have a haynes or similar manual, but a good readout instrument such as the Actron makes the checkup much easier. A few mechanics will charge you $35.00 to give you the answer with their test instrument.

    On a different aspect of your repair: I am very tight when it comes to replacing components such as batteries and Alternators and do not do so until I have bench tested those components. Nearly any parts supplier has the test equipment to check the condition of these components and will do so if you bring the alt. or battery or both into them. Some can and will test them on your vehicle for free or a very nominal price.

    Don't waste your money unnecessarily replacing components, and DO use only trustworthy mechanics. In today's market, FAR too many are parts swappers who will break your bank. A dealership with an outstanding reputation is very jealous of that rating and they are actually cheapest in many cases ESPECIALLY when it comes to control systems, which are HIGH profit items. Integrity is becoming a rare commodity unfortunately.
  • bivinsbivins Member Posts: 3
    Hello,

    The battery died on my '97 Explorer and after getting a jump, no interior button works. The windows do not work. The door locks do not work. The keypad no longer unlocks or locks the doors, though it does still arm and disarm the alarm. The same for the key fob, which will arm and disarm the alarm, but not lock and unlock the doors. My explorer is a 4 door with the 5.0 engine 2WD. I have already carefully inspected every single fuse, and none are blown. However, a blown fuse probably is unlikely since the systems involved do not all use the same fuse or relay.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    I can only guess, but did somebody hook up the jumper cables backwards? Because it sounds like the master body computer may have been blown by the jump. This module controls all the interior electrical components on the car, which from what you say, are all dead now.
  • dottyfdottyf Member Posts: 1
    edited August 2013
    This week my 2008 ford sports trac started having electrical problems. My dash board lights up like a christmas tree then goes away, having surge issues too and now my dash is going black and then coming back on. You can also hear a relay clicking on an off and my door locks go on an off. Is this just a sensor gone bad or wiring coming loose or big bucks to fix issue. I'm also getting a constant tire sensor fault light, not tire pressure low, not sure if thats real or not either. I am never at a good place to check my head lights as to if they come on when dash goes out. Can any one tell if they are. All of these issues are during the work dive to and from home haven't gone out at night yet, not willing to risk it ( no lights that is).
  • bivinsbivins Member Posts: 3
    No, I didn't connect the cables backwards. But, what you mention is still a possibility. I will try and check this out.

    Thanks!
    --Robert
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,298
    Could be the PATS security system needs to be reset.
    It does run now, right?
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • bivinsbivins Member Posts: 3
    Do you happen to know how to reset the PATS security system? The truck still runs correctly. Just no button on any door works. The radio is after market, so I cannot comment on whether or not it works properly as others have experienced. The alarm still works, it just doesn't lock and unlock the doors. The outside buttons work for setting and un-setting the alarm, but won't work the door locks.

    Unfortunately, the window was rolled down when I jumped the car. And there was no way to roll it back up. I had to remove the door panel and supply power to the motor just to roll it up manually.

    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks.
  • wingnut1958wingnut1958 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 explorer eddie bauer 4.6 v8, my door ajar alarm keeps going off even though the doors are closed.Is there a sensor or something that needs replacing?????? :(
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