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Ford Explorer Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • marty92marty92 Member Posts: 1
    Bulb is good, drivers side works, turn signal, running light and emerg flashers all work. Suggestions?
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    There is a sensor in the bottom hinge. Shoot a liberal amount of WD-40 in there all over and open & close the door a few times. That may fix it.
  • jwilson1989jwilson1989 Member Posts: 1
    Kevin- I am having the same issue. Did you ever find out the problem?
  • ibanezisgodibanezisgod Member Posts: 4
    i own a ford explor 97 keyless not pats. ive been researching all night, and would i be correct in assuming that cutting the darkgreen/ purple wire under the dash, and splicing it too the ground will disable the alarm and allow me too start the car without the fob? i really need it for work. im starting a new job 2morrow. and i promise im not steeling it lol
  • scuba2134scuba2134 Member Posts: 1
    06 Explorer Eddie Bauer appox 107,000 miles Fully loaded GPS Satellite radio...The instrument cluster lights are going crazy every thing lights up sometimes juts some of them, the speedometer and tachometer stop working and then will go on and off while driving. Usually just before is lights up the GPS screen gives me a notice that a system fault has been noticed.. so far they have replaced the instrument cluster and a PCM... every time they work on it and give it back it takes about 4 or 5 hrs of drive time and it will start up again?? It will also take a few times to start like there is no battery connection?
  • geoctgeoct Member Posts: 1

    to dottyf and scuba2134 - I have a 2008 Explorer that I experienced the same type of problems you are having if you are still having them. It was a few years ago and still under warranty at the time. I took it back to the dealer several times and the service manager took it back and forth to home before they could duplicate the problem. They then replaced the computer module which did not help. They finally figured out that the ignition switch was the problem. The switch has a sensor or contact in it that signals the computer that the key is in the ignition. My key was losing contact with this switch and the computer was reading that there was no key, therefore the engine is off and that it should not be receiving information about engine status at which point it turned on all the warning lights. They figured it out because the cabin lights would come on and the automatic seat would move back for exiting the vehicle sometimes as well which happens when you remove the key. New ignition switch solved all of the problems.

  • ray3627ray3627 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 ford explorer 4.0 Eddie Bauer that has a electrical problem. Dash lights and raideo light keep going on and off randomly and not all lights at the same time. Some time it will only be a light on the right side sometime just the left side of the dash other times all lights. If I hit the top of the dash a few times I can get the dash lights to come back on but it don't help the radio light. Radio still works just fine just the lights are the problem. please help this has been driving me crazzy the whole dash is apart looking for loose/broken wires ect.
  • zack310zack310 Member Posts: 1
    I have 1996 Explorer 154000 miles , working perfect, few days ago the car would not start in the morning, jump the battery then everything work all day and night , the next morning the battery would not work can't start the car , after jumping the car I check battery it is good I checked the Alternator it is working fine [ it is 4 months old] I noticed the battery light on dash board do not come on at all when starting the car, all lights come on and turn off on the dashboard but not the battery light.
    One night I unhook the negative [black wire] from battery and connect in the morning the car started fine. It looks like I have short somewhere which is draining the battery overnight .
    Please help with any suggestion how to fix the battery light so it will come on and off and how to check for electrical shortening which is draining the battery .
    Zack
    THANKS.....................
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    edited September 2017
    @zack310
    How did you test the battery?
    Load test?
    Was the starter tested?
    Here is a quick test that can help guide you to more things to check.
    Charge the battery.
    Put a volt meter on the battery.
    Turn the key on. Is the voltage +12V?
    If yes, turn the key to start. How much does the voltage drop?
    If drops below 10.5V, then load test the battery and check the starter.
    If it only drops a little, then the battery probably isn't the problem.

    Disconnect the negative side of the battery for at least 2 hours, to eliminate any stay alive memory.
    Connect a test light clip to the terminal clamp on the cable, then put the pointy end (probe) on the negative terminal. If it lights, you have a draw.Leave the test light connected for 10 minutes. If the light goes out, then some system kicked on.
    If the light stays on, the next step is to pull fuses until the light dims or goes out. Because of clocks, back up memory, etc, the light might not go all the way out.
    If it is really dim to start with, then you might have a battery cable problem causing your headaches.

    If you pull and replace all of the fuses and the light doesn't dim, (You might have to reset radio presets.), then remove relays one at a time.
    The likely suspects of a draw on an Exploder are alternator regulator, Fuel pump relay and lights.

    Also, remember that every time you open the door, the test light will illuminate for about 5 minutes, because of the dome light, so don't let that send you one a wild goose chase.

    Hope it helps, more than confuses. LOL!
  • ozarksrebelozarksrebel Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Ford Explorer 4.0 Eddie Bauer Edition that has issues with the windows, heater, ac, 4wd lights flashing on dash, etc. etc... I was told by a Ford Dealership and a mechanic friend as well that I needed to replace the BCM(Body Control Module) and that would fix all my problems. So I did that. Was also told that all the numbers has to match to make it work properly. I got lucky in a local salvage yard and for the golden needle in the haystack so to speak.

    Well this new BCM worked for about 24hrs and now it is totally crazy. The new BCM is doing the exact same things as the old one. So what are the odds of 2 BCM boxes having the exact same problems. It is astronomical and physically no way possible. My Explorer was made on Norfolk, Virginia according to Ford Sticker on door and the one I got the BCM from was made in Texas and a year newer.

    What I am asking for is any info or help? Is there something deeper beyond the BCM that would be causing all this to mimic the other one perfectly. I have pulled all fuses and relay type fuses both in the cabin and under the hood and checked to make sure all were or are good. have checked all wiring to see about a bad spot or breaks in it and there is nothing. What I would like to know is if there is a relay somewhere that is not known about or something in the wiring lines like a hidden inline fuse that would cause this so to speak short. Any info or help would greatly appreciated from anyone.

    Thanks in advance,
    J
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