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Mercedes-Benz C230 Problems and Repairs

135

Comments

  • creditman1creditman1 Member Posts: 5
    Can some one please tell me where the MAF is located on a 99 C230K so I can replace it.
    Thanks
  • marsgummarsgum Member Posts: 2
    Hi there..
    I am having the exact same probelm. I have a 2006 c230 sport with 69,000 miles. Check Engine light came on and my dealer tells me it's most likely a gear on the Balance Shaft thats broken, which in turn will damage the timing chain etc. They want to do the same thing-take apart the engine and replace it. They say I'm looking at about $5000!!
    Can you please tell me what you ended up doing, and/or if and what they fixed??
    Thanks..
  • bscoggs60bscoggs60 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 C230 I have replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter also a fuel relay. I have checked all wiring and all fuses. I still cant get car to run. I even went so far as to buy another fuel pump it still wont run. You can put gas in carb it starts up okay then dies. It seems theirs no power going to fuel pump.HELP. Any suggestions.
  • dnickelldnickell Member Posts: 4
    Try to find some TriFlow at any bicycle store or NAPA type store. It should solve your problem. It is think in viscosity and can seep into tiny crevices and even dissolve rust.
  • dave287dave287 Member Posts: 1
    My 2006 C230 Mercedes just completely stopped functioning out of no where. I opened it with the electronic key then went to turn it on but it did nothing. I then noticed that nothing else worked to include the lights, the locking mechanism, hazard lights, and all other functions that would normally work whether the car was on or not. When I use the key, a light flashes, which appears to be normal operation with they key. Right now, the car will not do anything whatsoever and is stuck in my garage, please help!
  • sagerfsagerf Member Posts: 1
    i got in a wreck a few weeks ago and have had some problems with my car. when i put it in reverse it makes a sound like it is dragging metal across the ground. i havent had any luck finding out what it could be. any ideas? its a 98' c230
  • sng76sng76 Member Posts: 1
    my car just made this loud noise an stop moving. I give it gas but nothing happen, i notices the esp malfunction on the dash. now my car start but, won"t drive. It saids see ower manual can anyone help me out.
  • jstnljstnl Member Posts: 1
    Hello

    Having the same problem. Can you tell me what it was. It sounds like it happened a couple of years ago.

    You can reply to my Email at jstnl@yahoo.com

    Thank you Very much
  • harry52harry52 Member Posts: 2
    I am, having the same problem with my 2006 C240 with 67,000 miles. Did you find an answer whether fuel or gear? Do you think this is a factory defect?
  • mb007mb007 Member Posts: 10
    Is the problem of brake noise still existing in 2010 MB C300 model?
  • midtownguy007midtownguy007 Member Posts: 4
    Hello creditman1!
    My car 1999 C230 its Mas air sensor is located as you look into the car the air intake tube is on the driver side of the car, leading from the Throttle body it look like a roller coaster tube. At the end of this tube is the Mass air Sensor! you will need a flat head screw driver, in my opinion I get original equipment manufactured part for the car! Now looking down on the driver side of the between the head light and radiator is the sensor using the flat head screw driver unscrew the clamp after that are two clamps one on each side of this sensor pull up on the clamps, after doing that to remove the Mass air sensor last is the sensor on the side of the tube, it has a wiring coming from the sensor be careful not to pull out the wires, their are two stages of the sensor one part is screwed in the sensor and the other is where the power line are attached now hold the tube and gently pull head which will come off at the top of the sensor with the wires attach and just repeat the reverse to pull the replacement back on the car! If you see oil in this area wipe out the area and then replace the sensor. By the I am owner of the same car I am not a mechanic so be careful :confuse: if your not sure don't do it!
  • midtownguy007midtownguy007 Member Posts: 4
    Hello Leith!

    I had the same problem with my 1999 c230 what I did was change oil use higher grade synthetic oil and make sure to use Mercedes radiator coolant which is very different from the regular coolant its clear not green. this help me just passing along my experience. tell did this help! :surprise:
  • midtownguy007midtownguy007 Member Posts: 4
    Hey T Langley!

    My problem was the oil separator my 1999 C230 I changed it now the car run like a monster :)
  • midtownguy007midtownguy007 Member Posts: 4
    Hey everybody

    I purchased this car last year and I was so proud of my purchase, what I found out was that will we all have trouble with our car its like that so the company car make their money. So my story is I changed my Mass air sensor, Oil separator, Throttle actuator, and two oxygen sensor, belt tensioner, all hoses, Filters, just by reading your comment my car run like a dream thanks to your comment :) but my gas tank use to give me wrong readings the parts department guy told me don't top off the tank, and I have not had a problem with that again! So everybody good luck with your car an enjoy it! Like my grand father told me! Everybody can buy a Mercedes, :) But can you maintain a Mercedes! :sick:
  • chumdrexchumdrex Member Posts: 3
    My SOS light has been activating on its own and it also pops open the trunk. I can't seem to figure out why this happens and it's always at home or work. When I bring it in, it doesn't happen. What could be causing it?
  • harry52harry52 Member Posts: 2
    Check the battery in your key.
  • mr_n_hmr_n_h Member Posts: 3
    edited September 2010
    Im very interested in your class action law suit. I own a 2006 C230 and its been giving me many problems since 54,000 miles....first the ESP Error, Speedtronic malfunction, crank shaft sensor, then the SRS lights due to seat belt sensors($4,000 quoted repair) and just recently the transmission internal speed sensor which will need a complete valve body (according to the MB Dealer in Bakersfield, Ca.) which will cost me $2,300 at this MB Dealer. This dealership has acknowledged that many 2006-2007 C230's have had the similar transmission problems and they have repaired many. I then went to a European car center which works on mercedes and they too said that they have repaired a total of 10 2006-2007 C230's with the same problem within the beginning of this year. I find it very difficult to believe that there has not been a recall!!!! Every mercedes blog and forum on the internet is filled with 06-07 C230 Transmission problems dealing with the transmission internal speed sensor and the entire valve body. I do not know how far ahead is your class action lawsuit but I and many other mercedes owners would like to join or maybe we can start a new one.
  • mr_n_hmr_n_h Member Posts: 3
    You might have two different issues here like I did.....I had a simillar problems with my 2006 C230...the ESP and the Crank Shaft Sensor....I did alot of research and got many different possible solutions...(battery is low, alignment is off and triggers the malfunction of ESP because sensor alignment is off, take it in to a dealer which quoted a brand new ESP system and some other sensors---alot of $$$$$$$, and a new crank shaft sensor quoted at $60). So I decided to start first with the cheapest, the alignment. I took it in for an alignment ($80) and if fixed the ESP issue and stoped making the loud weird noise. Then I tackled the second problem...my car would not start at times and when it did it would have almost no running power...so I researched and ran the car for error codes and it indeed was the crank shaft sensor. I purchased the sensor for $60 from the MB Dealer and had a regular mechanic install it for $30. I hope this helps if you still need it.
  • mr_n_hmr_n_h Member Posts: 3
    My 2006 C230 Automatic sport sedan just recently started acting weird: Extreme loss of acceleration up hill and the steptronic (+/- shifting) did not work... (I could only go 45mph when every one else was going 70mph up hill) when I traveled on a flat surface with no inclination my car worked fine, I then decided to put it on neutral while traveling at 65mph...when I put it back in drive it did not pick up the gears it just continued as if it was in neautral. I had to pull over and shift it into park...as i shifted form "D" to Neutral it shifted fine, but then from neutral to "R" the car jerked...from reverse to "P" it jerked again and shifted hard. I then shifted again to Reverse, Neutral, and Drive thus the car jerked and did a hard shift with knocking noise and would not drive. I shifted to neutral again and shut the car off. When I turned it back on it shifted smooth and I drove off without any problem.

    According to the MB Dealer in Bakersfield, Ca. the problem is the transmission internal speed sensor which will need a complete valve body which will cost me $2,300 at this MB Dealer. This dealership has acknowledged that many 2006-2007 C230's have had the similar transmission problems and they have repaired many. I then went to a European car center which works on mercedes and they too said that they have repaired about ten 2006-2007 C230's with the same problem within the beginning of this year. I find it very difficult to believe that there has not been a recall!!!! Every mercedes blog and forum on the internet is filled with 06-07 C230 Transmission problems dealing with the transmission internal speed sensor and the entire valve body. The error code reads a transmission internal speed sensor error....so why do I have to replace the entire valve body? I have read other owners have had the same problem and only had to replace the transmission internal speed sensor not the entire valve body. What do I do guys? Can anyone help? How do we start a recall? I do not have the $2,300 for the repair. Any suggestions?
  • marsgummarsgum Member Posts: 2
    2006 C230
    I had the same problem at 68000 miles. After I've replaced several sensors, including camshaft sensors etc., they finally ruled that the problem must be deep insided the engine. They took the engine completely apart, replaced a gear, the balance shaft and the timing chain. Total repair was over 5000 dollars, including 4000 dollars in labor. I had no choice but to get it fixed. I've pleaded with mercedes to pay for the repairs, but they only agreed to pay 1000 for parts.
    Now, not even half a year later, there's another problem. When I'm in first or second gear and gently(as in normal driving) press on the gas pedal the car sometimes chockes for a split second and then accelerates abruptly. I'm afraid to even find out what that's about. I'm seriously considering just getting rid of the car. Especially after reading all these other posts with similar problems.
  • cbeck02cbeck02 Member Posts: 1
    Hi All,

    Quick question whats the trick to tightening the 4 alternator mounting bolts, so the unit does not bind, does not seem to mount flush, same unit I took off just had it rebuilt
  • barrymbarrym Member Posts: 9
  • barrymbarrym Member Posts: 9
    When the AC is running in the manual mode with floor/dash air distribution, the air will initially discharge from all four dash board outlets but after a period of time (2-3 minutes) the air quantity from the center outlets diminishes (while the outlets nearest the doors continue to deliver ample air volume). Occasionally, air volume will return to the center outlets but will again diminish after a few minutes. Is this normal (I would have expected that in the manual mode, I would have total control of air distribution)?

    Tnx

    Barry
  • scott2012scott2012 Member Posts: 1
    March 2010 my engine light went on, it was one of the worst days of my life, $5,300.00 for a Balance Shaft. They said they had to take the entire engine out of my Mercedes C230 that only had 74,000 miles on it.
    The service manager John and his boss said that this is very rare to have happened but I went straight to the internet and found out differently.

    Now, the work that Laguna Niguel Mercedes-Benz Dealership did, 8 months later and only 4200 miles since that repair, I need a new intake manifold and #2 exhaust Valve that is not seating. Another $2825.18 to fix this now!

    The Dealership said they never toughed any of those things while working on the engine however the invoice they gave me says differently!

    Add me to the Class Action Law Suit...please!!!
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,148
    I understand your frustration, but our Membership Agreement does prohibit using the Forums to organize lawsuits. Also, if you've never been a part of one, you might think about whether it's even worth it. It'd likely be resolved somewhere around 3 years from now, and the award for individuals in the lawsuit would likely be that MB would pay for the fix or compensate you some piddly amount that wouldn't come close to compensating you. In most cases, you're better off trying to resolve it as an individual rather than as a "class."

    MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
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  • jm04jm04 Member Posts: 1
    Hey, me and my friend both have 2005 C230's. When he heard my car make the same noise you've described after putting it reverse, he said, "hey, I know what causing that noise, my car did the same, it cost me $400.00 for a new alternator and it fixed the problem." I haven't fixed mine yet. But I'll do it myself. Autozone has the part for $171.00. In actuality, its the Alternator pulley causing the problem, its all one unit. He said if you don't fix it soon, as he waited and it ended up causing transmission mount/ motor mount problems from the excessive vibration.
  • yazansyazans Member Posts: 1
    so my 1998 c230 benz keeps cranking but won't start like you said...mechanic said its not the alternator but he is still trying to find out what and i was just wondering if i can get your opinion....car was running great till all the sudden it felt like it was staling on me and died tried to start i only get the cranking?
  • tychilitychili Member Posts: 1
    Add me to the list of dissatisfied Mercedes owners. I too own a 2006 C230 and started having issues with it. Periodically the car would lose acceleration and RPMS would be high and the vehicle would jerk when I tried changing gears. Took it to a repair shop and received P0717/P0718 fault codes and something about the valve body. Mechanic claims he received instructions from Mercedes to do a software update on the car for $300 and that should take care of the issue. Well the car drove ok for about one month until my check engine light came on. One day later the car starts doing the same thing it was a month before. As I change gears from park, reverse or drive, the gear shift jerks and I am unable to accelerate past 20 mph no matter how much pressure I place on the gas. So I have the vehicle towed back to the mechanic and now he says that the valve body needs to be replaced. The fault codes should have told him that in the first place when I first took it in to him. Anywho, now it's costing me $1200 just for the valve body part, which I hope will fix the issue. Lord knows I can't afford anything else to go wrong with this bloody car. Wish I never bought this darn thing.
  • ron2000ron2000 Member Posts: 1
    Howdy, I just completed a lien sale on a 1994 c230. Car is immaculate inside and out! Except the engine. A blown head gasket or more, plus needs water pump Would it be smart to get it fixed, and use it as my own or should I just find someone that wants to part it out approx 146,000 miles
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited January 2011
    No such car. It's either a C220 or it's a later model C230 (1996 on up)

    But that's not really important---the car is definitely not worth repairing if it's a mid 90s C class sedan. I don't think parting it out is a good way to go, since that could take forever and there's not really a big demand for parts.

    I'd say the only market appeal is as a "fixer-upper" for someone who wants a hobby, is good with wrenches, or maybe who has a wrecked one with a good engine.

    If it were a C320 convertible, it might be worth saving.

    I'd put it on craigslist for $1500 and see what happens.
  • christ10mommiechrist10mommie Member Posts: 1
    edited March 2011
    Marsqum. I am with you. If there's a recall, I too would like to know about it and to get signed up! I just had my C230 Kompressor Sports Coupe in for regular service B maintenance (--at $700 as opposed to the usual $400, but my mechanice does WAY more than what you would typically get from a dealership in the run of the mill $400 service B.) My car is a 2003 with about 80k miles on it. To my horror, the day after service, my car wouldn't start. When I turned the key over, it made a low humming sound that I didn't understand at all. :confuse: I towed it back to the mechanic, in a controlled rage... of course :mad: and he was able to diagnose quickly that it is a timing chain issue. Repair will run $3 - 4k, I'm told. :cry: This is where I thank God for giving me the wisdom to purchase and to keep my GE extended warranty :) even through a long season of unemployment when I really could have used the money that would have been reimbursed to me through a cancellation of the warranty. The warranty will cover the repairs, even though the mechanic will have to tear the whole engine apart (apparently) to qualify the event as a covered claim. (Kind of like going from Washington state to California by way of England, if you know what I mean. :D) 'But whatever it takes! - I could not have afforded this repair if it were not for the warranty. Still, if there is a recall related to the timing chain, I am interested in jumping on that bandwagon for sure. Please keep me posted.
  • c230kompressorc230kompressor Member Posts: 1
    I own 2005 C230 kompressor 2dr 1.6 manual transmission. Recently I've changed batteries in my key remote unit. Shortly after while driving dash cluster/ gauges stopped working. Car was running fine but I did not want to continue driving like that so I parked on the shoulder. When I tried to re-start the car again I was not able to do it. Car just did not recognize a key. I wasn't able to lock or unlock doors, even though light on remote was still working/. Luckily my spare key worked right away and did not have any problems after. When I took it to dealership (MB San Diego) they told me:
    Old key can't be reset and I would need a new key $370 + $900 for some kind of key reader that is placed on steering column!
    When asked why replacing $900 part that works fine with spare key. Their answer was a bit confusing. Supposedly that device (chip) is working but they predict it might die. However, no one knows when or what may cause it to die, it could die in few days or 10 years. And they assume it could happen when programming that $370 new key. In that case I would have to get 2 new keys and that part.!!!
    Since when do you have to be responsible for mechanics mistakes.?

    Few months ago I had Engine light on and I was told that I need to replace Cam Shafts Solenoids O2 sensors and Main Computer. When asked, why computer, they've tried hard to explain that Computer is BRAIN OF ENGINE when spotting drop of oil in connector casing it needs to be replaced. Total cost would be ~$5,600.00. Even though computer was performing well, car was running fine besides Cam Shaft small leek and o2 sensors which triggered ENGINE LIGHT. I've politely thank them for their concerns and took my car back. I got myself $4.99 box of cue tips and cleaned computer slot connections thoroughly and ignored engine light.

    Until today, when dealing with this key issue I found out that MB has RECALL on Camshaft Solenoids and Chain Belt.( just saved ~$5000) !!!

    If anyone has same problem with a key please let me know.
  • ehon0101ehon0101 Member Posts: 2
    I also have this car with the kompresser. One day my alternator light came on then flipped off the next day. And every since this day my car makes a noise when it turns over from starting it. It also makes a noise when I put my car in gear while using the ac. I was told motor mount bracket also, and now this has been repaired the noises have not stop. Can you explain alittle more your problems you had with this issue because my car is still not fixed. Thanks I need anyones help with this issue...............
  • ehon0101ehon0101 Member Posts: 2
    One day my alternator light came on then flipped off the next day. And every since this day my car makes a noise when it turns over from starting it. It also makes a noise when I put my car in gear while using the ac. I was told motor mount bracket also, and now this has been repaired the noises have not stop. Has anyone had problems with their car doing this also because I am at my wits end..... Thanks.
  • jcrandall92116jcrandall92116 Member Posts: 2
    I think the alternator issue and the vibration issues are totally different. As for the vibration, have you had the mounts around the transmission checked? If you are hearing and feeling the vibrations when you put it in gear, it may be coming from this area. Also check your exhaust system mounts.
    Have you taken your car in to have the charging system checked to make sure the alternator is charging. There may be a ground issue or something related to the alternator to give you the intermittent "check engine" light. I would also look at the tension of the serpentine belt if it's giving you this noise when you start the car.
  • mountainmysticmountainmystic Member Posts: 2
    I took a risk, and just purchased the above mentioned car, knowing it has acceleration problems. It has a rebuilt transmission, as of 20K miles When pressing on the gas, it bogs out, when you let off the gas and press again, it comes back and continues to accelerate. The seller tells me he thinks its the throttle actuator.... Any other thoughts?
  • creditman1creditman1 Member Posts: 5
    Not really sure about the throttle actuator, but you also may want to check your Mass Air Flow Sensor. If thats what it is, you can find them on Ebay for around $140.00 take 5 mins. to put in. If you get it from a Mercedes dealer they will charge you around $575.00 just for the part.
  • mountainmysticmountainmystic Member Posts: 2
    thanks for that. after hours of searching, i get the feeling this may be the problem. i have seen the replacement sensor for as little as $99. looks like i could DIY. thanks for the info. will post update.
  • kufukufu Member Posts: 14
    Before you buy replacement sensor try to clean present one. Visit: www.PerformanceProducts.com or call 1-800-243-1220 and get Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner for around $ 13,00 plus S&H.
  • 4sport4sport Member Posts: 2
    What did you decide to do with your tranny slip issue (limp home mode)?
  • shay35shay35 Member Posts: 8
    Does anyone in the Altamonte Springs, Fl area know how to work on a Mercedes C230, and will do so at a fair and reasonable price? Need mass air flow sensor cleaned or replaced.
    Shay35 :shades:
  • shay35shay35 Member Posts: 8
    I want to try cleaning the mass air flow sensor but I am afraid I might mess up. What should I do if something goes wrong and I can't get it back on. Would it cost me a lot to find someone who can do it?
    Shay35 :confuse:
  • creditman1creditman1 Member Posts: 5
    Shay, Buy and replace it your self. it takes less then 5 minutes to do. It is right up front just a little right of the left front headlight. (That is if you have a 1999 C230). The first time I got taken for $750.00 from the Mercedes Dealer. The second time they told me it was the MAF I went on to Ebay bought a brand new BOSCH mass air flow for $140.00 and replaced in no time. All it take is a screw driver to loosen the metal band around the hose, then unplug the wire going into the MAF unit and pull it off. Hope this helps
  • kufukufu Member Posts: 14
    Air Mass Flow Sensor Cleaner is safe to use for all MAF sensors. Increase horsepower, IMPROVE AIR/FUEL RATIO (this is your case), without damaging the plastic housing or hotwires in the MAF sensor. Follow instructions on the can and you gonna be OK. If you decide to replace for new one it is DIY job.
    AIR MASS METER - removal:
    Air mass meter is located on the rear of the air cleaner cover on the right hand side of the engine compartment. Unplug the electrical wiring from the sensor by turning the union nut anti-clockwise until it is felt to disengage and then separating the two halves of the connector. Slacken the hose clip at the engine side of the sensor, then pull off the inlet ducting. Release the spring clips at the air cleaner side of the sensor and remove the sensor. Recover the O-ring seal. Refitting is a reversal of removal.
    Time to do the job is about 10 minutes or less.
  • shay35shay35 Member Posts: 8
    Thank you...I will give it a try and if I mess up I will post the mess (smile)
  • shay35shay35 Member Posts: 8
    Thank You! :D
  • shay35shay35 Member Posts: 8
    Where do you put the coolant in?
  • gmaresgmares Member Posts: 1
    2006 MB Sport V6 / check engine light came on / Camshaft/Crankshaft Correlation Bank 1 Sensor A / Does this have anything to do with the Variable valve timing solenoid or what? Light keeps coming on!
  • gerisgeris Member Posts: 1
    C-230 2006 Automatic Transmission does Not shift. It turns on normal then when you try to put Drive it accelerates but it continues going only on 1st speed. The panel indicator does not move. It doesn't work manually either.

    The mechanic says it is the first time he sees this case. It's been more than a month trying to find the reason but he thinks it is not the transmission, and the computer does not mark any code.

    Can anybody help me? Has someone else had the same issue?

    Thank You.
  • kufukufu Member Posts: 14
    If you need to add coolant use expansion tank. If you need to replace a coolant and your model does not have pressure cap on radiator, let me know.
    There is a trick how to do that.
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