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Mercedes-Benz C230 Problems and Repairs

jamiem4jamiem4 Member Posts: 23
in Mercedes-Benz
We recently purchased a basic C-230 (not Kompressor). After approximately 5,000 miles we noticed blue smoke from the exhaust upon ignition. We also realized from then on our car runs similarly to a diesel truck, a freight train (including all the vibrations), or dirtbike. We only use the most premium Shell or Amaco gasoline, and even purchase the highest grade fuel from varying gas stations to make sure an additive, etc isn’t contributing to the rumbling and smoke. The Leith Raleigh service department told us a variety of excuses for the problem ranging from the ‘head gaskets’ aren’t sealed the first 10k miles…to the blue smoke is really ‘steam’ coming out of the exhaust after the car sits all night. They also warned us against using Shell gasoline (which we don’t anyway). We are just wondering if anyone else has had this experience and what the possible REAL causes might be. Please help!!! Thanks!!!!
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Comments

  • jmnappjmnapp Member Posts: 13
    Leith in Raleigh is supposed to be an awful service department from what I've heard. I would try another dealer and see what they say. Also, call Mercedes Corporate and talk with a customer service rep. I would bet Leith is giving you the runaround.
  • muttbenzmuttbenz Member Posts: 2
    My 06 c230 sport has intermittent clacking noises accelerating in 2nd and 3rd gears. The Leith Raleigh mechanic wrote that I should buy better gas. Since I only use premium I asked exactly what better gas he recommends. They followed that up with a suggestion that I use a gas additive for three tanks. That did not help. Leith did a repair that fixed an a/c problem, which in turn seemed to solve the engine clatter. Now five months later the engine is clattering again and I'm on my third bottle of gas additive before giving it back to Leith again. Maybe the smaller six cylinder is inferior?
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    There's nothing at all "inferior" about Mercedes 2.5L all-aluminum V6 engines. The same can't be said about some dealership service departments, though. ;) If the "clacking" sounds similar to what you'd imagine hearing when shaking a can containing several ball bearings, that's what's commonly referred to as "pinging" (technically, "pre-detonation") - VERY unusual for a Mercedes operating on 91 pump octane premium unleaded gasoline. Do you primarily purchase your gas from the same station? If so, you might try a different brand on the off chance your usual station is contracting with an independent wildcat tanker driver for fuel delivery - in some cases all the way from Mexico. If that admittedly unlikely scenario isn't the cause, I'd be looking to take the car to a different dealership. There could definitely be several mechanical possibilities for the pinging (which, by the way can do damage over the long term - best to have this problem attended to properly). If your current dealer isn't taking your car's problem seriously, keep in mind that you're not co-joined at the hip to that dealership's service department - nor are all dealerships created equal, either. A good sales department will close a car sale. A good service department keeps owners satisfied and coming back indefinitely.
  • lakepoplakepop Member Posts: 221
    Have a PO170 trouble code that showed up with my scanner.
    My question is....could this be related to the gas cap OR is directly related to air mass flow sensor.

    Feedback is appreciated. :sick:
  • rdf63rdf63 Member Posts: 4
    I am having problems removing the two front tires from a 2000 C230. After visiting a tire store, they stated that the Lug nuts are too rusted to remove. Does anybody have any suggestions to solving this problem and/or have you had a similar problem with the rusted Lug nuts.
  • stocks3019stocks3019 Member Posts: 2
    The driver power seat (which enables the seat cushion to go up and down and driver's chair forward and back) is not working. The passenger's power seat works just fine. My 2004 C240 4Matic has 66,700 miles and just went in for service 3 days ago to change the voltage regulator and battery. However, the driver's power seat worked just fine when I got it back.

    Does anyone think it might be the fuse (which is located in a compartment on the left side of the dashboard)? Should I first try changing the fuse, and then the motor?

    Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!
  • cherdencherden Member Posts: 1
    Have a new c230 sport, 1600 miles, and it left me sitting. Turn the key all the lights come on, but will not start. Also started and the tranny locked out. Couldn't move. Started doing this 3 weeks ago. Has been at the dealer for 4 days, they have no idea, think it is a command error. Going to try the esp module, well see.
  • trina7612trina7612 Member Posts: 1
    had anyone else had issues with your sound system? its been driving me nuts...after the first week my 6 disc wouldn't open then my reception was terrible on my FM radio..then my left speaker sounded busted...then my system would play and i could navigate through the system but no audio would come out....its about ym 8th week with the 2007 c230 and maybe been drivin it for about 3 weeks total becuase its been in service so much! they finally replaced my head unit and some speakers...it sounds a better...i guess.. im just tired of dealing with it.... HAS ANYONE ELSE HAD ISSUES WITH THIER SOUND SYSTEM?
  • beetlybug71beetlybug71 Member Posts: 6
    Remember you have the only engine that Mercedes makes that runs on both Ethanol AND Gasoline. You know to use only premium fuel, so go to a gas station that carries Ethanol and fill up with Ethanol, be sure to ask for a 10% mixture, see if that clears it up.
  • beetlybug71beetlybug71 Member Posts: 6
    The rust is from being shipped over from Germany, take it to a different tire store, preferably one with brains! Good luck.
  • beetlybug71beetlybug71 Member Posts: 6
    Make sure you have you foot firmly on the brake before you try to start, but it sounds like there's something wrong with your key, it has over 20,000 codes in it for security, so if it even gets too wet, it won't work, good luck!
  • beetlybug71beetlybug71 Member Posts: 6
    Go into your steering wheel button settings and go to radio settings, then set it to reception instead of scan, that way it will only get the stations with perfect reception.
  • cruzzzzzncruzzzzzn Member Posts: 3
    I had a similar problem with my c230 although earlier year. It did turn out to be a problem with the key in the end. You may want to start at the simplest point and move forward from there.
    Let me know what happens. ;)
  • cruzzzzzncruzzzzzn Member Posts: 3
    It would sound like your engine chatter was directly related to you a/c problem. The only moving a/c part would have to be your compressor / clutch assembly. It is quite possible that your a/c clutch is defective. You may want to consult another dealer with a specific direction of repair in mind.
  • cruzzzzzncruzzzzzn Member Posts: 3
    Try spraying them a couple times a day with a rust removing product, (ie. WD40) for several days or longer. Then you can try removing them once again. If you have aluminum rims, they will react with the metal bolts. You may want to coat the bolts with a grease before re-installing them.
  • mrummrum Member Posts: 7
    I got my 2007 C230 in November. My ABS light came on and I took it to the dealer to be fixed. I ended up taking it in 5 different times for the same problem in less than a month. I kept complaining to the dealer, but what I had to do was call Mercedes corporate. They were great and I am in the process of having them buy back my car. Just wanted to let you know that if you have a lot of problems, call Mercedes Corporate to see what they can do for you.
  • donb13donb13 Member Posts: 4
    The fuel gage on my 1998 C230 is stuck on full. Has anyone else had this problem? Any ideas on fixing this? It started after I filled up with gas. At first it register on empthy and the light came on that I was running on reserve. I shut off the engine then loosened the fuel cap. It went up to full and it has stayed there.
  • merthedesbenzmerthedesbenz Member Posts: 4
    Mercedes Benz C230: On the driver side front corner has been hit and pushed in breaking the headlight damaging the bumper guard pushing the front quarter panel off and bending down the hood unnoticable to the human eye unless you tried to fit a new headlight assembly in there. The damage is extensive enough to be quoted at $4000. I have looked at family and friends in helping out but only so much can be done and parts are not cheap. This is the problem, if I am to fix the accident, the value to fix is about the value of the car. In stating that I am burning $4000 on a car that essentially could last me another two years or take that and put a lump sum down on another car. How am I to gain the most value out of this vehicle without extensively putting alot into it?
  • kufukufu Member Posts: 14
    PO170 trouble code is directly related to AIR MASS FLOW SENSOR /not enough air in engine/. If you change it by yourself, which is easy, you will save $ 250 for installation. Price of new AIR MASS FLOW SENSOR is $400.
    Good luck.
  • tennisprofltennisprofl Member Posts: 4
    I recently drove thru a HUGE puddle & my car made it thru but stalled after I got thru the water. No water came into my car but it won't start now. All of the lights inside & out come on but it won't turn over. Its a 2003 C240 with low miles on it.
  • merthedesbenzmerthedesbenz Member Posts: 4
    Did you check the fuse box?
  • tennisprofltennisprofl Member Posts: 4
    Haven't checked that yet. Put a new battery in & that didn't work. Hoping that it is something simple.
  • lakepoplakepop Member Posts: 221
    Have a ABS light on a 98 C230. I'm guessing that it is probably a sensor but I am eliminating the easy stuff first.

    Battery.....good
    Brake fluid....full
    fuse.....................CANNOT FIND ??????

    Thats what I need for now....where is the fuse located? I've already looked under the hood in the fuse box....not there.

    Also need to know how many sensors.....1 per wheel or only the front ?

    How about on the differential ???

    I'll pull the wheels and get to the sensors soon. Plan on checking the connections and cleaning them up ......hopefully thats the problem.

    OK....any advice/inputs ?????
  • lakepoplakepop Member Posts: 221
    Code cleared..........DIY replaced Mass Air Sensor. A very simple <15 min job.

    Obviously saved a bunch of $$$$$ over the Mega Buck dealer.
  • nalaiqnalaiq Member Posts: 1
    HOW TO OPEN, MERCEDES 1998 C230, MASTER AIR FLOW SENSOR? I WANT TO CLEAN IT. CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS ON.
  • plachapelleplachapelle Member Posts: 1
    I have 2000 C230K.(116,000 miles) I will try to describe my problem as best I can. When in D, it sounds like I am driving a 5 speed and changed to 5th gear when I should have changed to 3rd gear. The RPM's are very low (at slower speeds) there is a deep rumbling, and the only way to eliminate it is to a) step on it a little, or b) drop to the lower gear (which doesn't always help much if I am driving 15-40 mph). Nobody seems to have seen this before, one mechanic said he could charge me $2000 but he didn't know if he could fix it?!? Any ideas? Thanks.
  • kufukufu Member Posts: 14
    The air mass meter is located on the rear of the air cleaner cover on the right hand side of the engine compartment. Unplug the electrical wiring from the sensor by turning the union nut anti-clockwise until it is felt to disengage and then separating the two havles on the connector. Slaken the hose clip at the engine side of the sensor, then pull off the inlet ducting. Release the spring clips at the air cleaner side of the sensor and remove the sensor. Recover the O-ring seal.
    You can get Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner on www. performanceproducts.com
    Product Number #883593 Price is 9.95 plus S&H
  • slj333slj333 Member Posts: 4
    I own a 2005 c230 sedan. The car is great but as the warranty gets closer to expiring, I would like some recommendations on a good and reasonable extended warranty option.
    Thanks,
    Steve
  • hdoolabhhdoolabh Member Posts: 3
    I woned a c240 2004 model and recently decided to change it for a c230 sport and the only reason i did this was due to the warrenty expiring.

    I went to my local dealer (little rock AR) and traded my 240 for the 230. the 230 only had 10K miles on it and was used as a loaner car for others having work done to their cars. I got full warrenty on the 230 and am very happy with it. One of the keys had a crack on it and the dealer replaced it without any hesitation.

    I would consider doing a trade out for a 07 model the dealer may have in order to keep your vehicle in warrenty.
  • jtyler84jtyler84 Member Posts: 1
    My wifes 1998 C230 turn signal, power windows, and door locks stopped functioning the other day. I checked the fuse box under the hood and in the trunk and didn't find any blown or loose fuses. I disconnected the battery and reconnected it which seemed to fix everything, but after a day, the passenger side windows operate intermittently and the switch signals are crossed (IE I push the front passenger side window switch down and the rear goes down, or the front goes down but wont come back up unless I press the rear passenger window up or down). Any ideas?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Could be a quirky relay but one would need a wiring/relay diagram to see if one relay box controls all these items. If it does, that would be a likely suspect; otherwise, such bizarre behavior suggests a fault in the wiring harness or perhaps at the fuse box wiring. These things can be tough to track down. But try to sniff out the relay issue and also make SURE your battery connections are clean and that your battery/alternator is operating at proper voltages. Any drop in voltages will cause your electric systems to go bananas.
  • diplomatsdiplomats Member Posts: 1
    Hello everyone, I have a 05 C-230 Kompressor and i would like to know where's the location of the transmission fluid tray and the stick to check the fluids. I recently change my oil and oil filter but i'm having trouble finding the transmission fluid tray and stick. If you guys have the knowledge and pics of the locations it will help me out a lot.

    Thanks
  • JoeDonaldJoeDonald Member Posts: 1
    I have heard from all MB mechanics that an owner SHOULD NOT change their own transmission oil. It is hygroscopic and water will be absorbed... just like brake fluid Changing oil is one thing but transmission and brake fluid are dangerous to change!

    In fact real mechanical technicians use a suction device to remove all the transmission oil before changing. They are that careful to avoid entry of moisture.

    You shouldn't even consider adding even a little bit of brake fluid from a can that has been opened! I learned that on the first Porsche I owned back in 1965 :shades:
  • mhsfrancemhsfrance Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Mercedes C230 Kompressor that has been perfect for the 4 years I had it. However, today the message came up "Taillight Lamp Left". So I proceeded to replace the bulb which had burned out. I took it to the dealer and he put the new bulb back in the board and I drove off. As i was leaving the message still appeared; "Taillight Lamp Left" along with "Taillight Left Lamp: Backup light on".

    We tried replacing the board that holds the bulbs and that wasn't it? The message still appears. Any thoughts?
  • mattmonacomattmonaco Member Posts: 2
    check the harness under the middle console. I had the same problem. a loose wire was the cause. strange thing is I disconnected the battery and it happened again.
  • mattmonacomattmonaco Member Posts: 2
    c230 kompressor failed inspection, seems the air flow sensor might be a problem. check engine light keeps coming on after the computer is cleared it works for a while then comes back on. I replace it from a shop on amazon $100 bucks the machanic is scratching his head... have no idea what to do. help
  • art30art30 Member Posts: 1
    2003, C230C coupe. 61,000miles. Battery error every morning for the last 2 weeks. I got new batt. Used a power mantiner that you plug into the lighter so I would not loose voltage while I removed the old batt and installed new. Everything went great. Didn't loose any radio settings, seats or anything else. The only Malfunction is the message "SRS system error go to workshop". The red SRS light is also on. Car drives fine. How can I reset the error and see if it comes back. I have turned the car on and off 4-5 times but message still shows. I do not want to pay MB $120 minimum for them to push a reset button.

    Let me know what you think.

    Txs Art
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I think you need to go to a dealer or repair shop and hook it up to the STAR system or some such. This only takes 2-5 minutes. They should do it for free as a courtesy.
  • kompresserkompresser Member Posts: 3
    We have a 2002 C230 with 120,000 miles. I have some electrical problems and not sure if they are related. The big one is we have no low beam, parking light or turn signal on the drivers side. The cable coming into the cluster has 4 functions,, including the high beam which works. I swapped all of the bulbs to the passenger side and they all work. I checked the fuse and it is good. I swapped it out with the passenger side and it is fine. I also checked the fuse box and there is power to the fuse. There is no power to the cluster. Am I missing a connector somewhere? Also the battery goes dead if the car is not driven everyday. We put in a new battery but didn't help. I don't know if this is related. Also have a bad noise through the radio so right now we pulled the fuse for the sound system. Any help here would be great.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well congratulations on attempting a logical and diligent diagnosis, first off.

    Yeah you know this all does sound related and I'm here thinking....what component could cause all of this to happen?

    I came up with two ideas, one vague, one more concrete.

    Vague: A glitch in the wiring harness from the headlight to a connector or junction box further up on the firewall.

    Concrete: Your headlight switch itself or the connector that plugs into it.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well congratulations on attempting a logical and diligent diagnosis, first off.

    Yeah you know this all does sound related and I'm here thinking....what component could cause all of this to happen?

    I came up with two ideas, one vague, one more concrete.

    Vague: A glitch in the wiring harness from the headlight to a connector or junction box further up on the firewall.

    Concrete: Your headlight switch itself or the connector that plugs into it. You might say "but the fuse has power"...but I don't know a) if it fuses before the switch (don't have a diagram of it) and b) if there is a low beam fuse and a high beam fuse. Maybe that fooled us.
  • kompresserkompresser Member Posts: 3
    I ordered a service manual that has a wiring diagram. I am thinking it is something little. The headlights went out and came back on a couple of times before going out completely. It seemed like a connector falling off but not sure where to start looking. I can see if I can located the switch and see if there is a connector off. Wish I had the diagram now.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You might try turning the headlights on and with someone watching start jiggling wires.
  • kompresserkompresser Member Posts: 3
    I'll give it a try. Thanks for the help
  • SailrPeteSailrPete Member Posts: 1
    For the past 5 months, I have a repetitive Check-Engine light from what seems to be a pressure surge in the fuel tank. I get an emissions code, usually gas cap not sealed AND liquid gas on the cap gasket. The tank pumps have been checked and the vacuum valves tested OK. The pump pressure sensors have been replaced and other connections checked. The problem just occurred again. Has anyone heard of a similar problem and what to inspect, test ,etc. The repair shop seems unable to solve this problem!?!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Do you remember the number of the trouble code?
  • kufukufu Member Posts: 14
    If the emission code is PO455 Evaporative emission control system leak you need to monitor the fuel tank pressure on a cold engine start during the evaporative test.
    The computer is measuring a vapor leak or it "thinks" there is a leak because the pressure does not change AS IT SHOULD.
    To test the car by yourself, do the following:
    1. clear Check Engine light.
    2. fill up your tank TO THE TOP and make sure gas cap is sealed well.
    Run the car until you spend 1/2 of the tank. IF the Check Engine do not reappear, you have fake call from your computer.
    Hopefully, first or second test will help you out.
  • jcrandall92116jcrandall92116 Member Posts: 2
    My wife's C230 is experiencing problems with the alarm going off periodically for no apparent reason. Sometimes the lights just flash and at times it will sound the alarm. Can anyone give me a clue as to why this happens?
  • kline51kline51 Member Posts: 2
    I HAVE A 2002 C320 AND IT WOULD NOT START AFTER IT SAT OVER.NEW BATTERY AFTER A COUPLE OF DAYS SAME THINE.COME TO FIND OUT IT WAS THE POWER SEAT CONTROL BOX UNDER THE LEFT AND RIGHT SEATS.I UNPLUGED BOTH AND IT STARTS EVERY TIME.THAT BOX GOES FOR 900.00 AT THE DELEAR
  • michchimichchi Member Posts: 1
    I have the similiar issues as SailrPete. My 98 C280 has the cehck engine light on. Dealer fixed wiring, oxegeon sensor, engine rcomputer and valve connect to air pump. All of these fxies are not working. It is still on after about 30 miles of driving (after code cleared). I like to try your advice but don;t know how to clear check engine light. Please let me know how to do it. Should I put a new gas cap. It's still the original one since 1998?
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