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Comments
Thank you.
My point is that a TECH at firestone makes a phone call and says I need 8 plugs for an 02 Q45 4.5 . The auto parts guy looks it up and sends the driver with the parts. In the mean time the mechanic removes all the plugs waiting for the new ones to arrive. When they do he puts the (CORRECT) ones in. Not even paying attention that they are shorter and I think colder than OEM.
They will work fine for lets say 500 miles and then the car says NO this is not right.
The mechanic swears he did the job correctly but the wrong plug is installed. Not reallly his fault but our cars are rare, unlike a Ford or Chevy.
Pull a spark plug and check with the Dealer to make sure it is the correct one.
Hope this helps.
Gotta learn the "how-2-doos" on the Navigation System. Any suggestions?
If so, I think I may need to replace it.. so I've been told. My transmission wont shift in to Drive after I start it, even after a tranny flush. It will go into 3rd, then after a while I can shift it in D, but what do I need to fix to get my car to shift normally?
i am new to GF50
i got my car yesterday indeed
but i can't find any indication for the tranmission fluid meter inside the engine compartment and the user manual as well
anyone could help???????
thanks
It is one of two things. The bulb or the ballast. Normally it is the bulb. They are expensive. You can switch the bulbs around an see if it does the same on the drivers side. Then it is the bulb. You should replace them in pairs! A good online place is plasmagarage.com
Ivy
JERRY
I will attempt to help you out.
i am so scared about i had not pour enough oil into it
what is it about???????
Not good at transmission problems but the fluid burned up the seals around the Torque converter. The transmission will have to be drop down to inspect the seals in this area.
I'm sure you checked the fluid and it was burnt smelling. Transmission must be(running) when the car is moving down the road. When running, it keeps the fluid pumping through the transmission and out to the cooler up by the radiator. Its like you running your engine and had the water pump disconnected. The water wont circulate around the engine and out to the radiator if the water pump is not running too.
The transmission operates the same.When the car is moving, the transmission Torque Converter is actually moving too! The force of the rear tires instead of the force of the engine is turning it. This creates a hot condition in the transmission because the engine is not running the oil pump in the transmission to keep it cool.
The Torque Converter is like a couple of fans that face each other. Throw in some transmission fluid and you have force from one fan driving the other fan. The force from the engine drives the other fan connected to the rear tires via the fluid, no mechanical contact. In your case the engine side was not running it also runs the pump I was mentioning above. The fluid from the rear tire side got hot when the engine side was acting like a restrictor for the flow of oil out of the transmission..
Now you know, to leave your engine running if your going to tow your car any length of time. The tow people should have told you to keep the driving wheels off the ground or disconnect the drive shaft that goes to the rear wheels from the transmission.
My 1990 hit a flat spot when turning it over . I dont believe its the battery cause it turned right over a few seconds later when i got it in the garage a little crooked and started up again to realign it .
Done this once before . I 'll check amp draw during start at the Autozone when I get a chance.
Your help is GREATLY appreciated..!!
Chad
I can get in to my wire diagrams on my 1990 to see the logic in the wiring for a door lock broke.It could have energized the cutout starter relay. I've seen something labeled cutout once I believe on mine. Sometimes I remove the battery ground connection, it wipes out the memory in the computer. I guess kinda like the Restart button on computers.
Does the hood release still work?
long story short its on the ground like a old lincoln the fluid container is empty for the active ride and the right rear tire has about a 20 degree tilt inward. i am hoping that by replacing the accumulators and refilling the fluid (if you know what it is please tell me) she will lift back up any advice would be greratly appreciated .
you can e-mail me at bigdaddygpk05@yahoo.com. thank you in advance for all your help.
Im going to replace the speakers someday. Mine will go away if I shut off the powwer and turn it back on.
All four speakers have individual amp built in. They go bad after time.
Good luck!
I TRY TO AVOID ANY UNNECESSARY COST, SO I HAVE TIRES ROTATED & BALANCED AND OIL/FILTER CHANGES AT A LOCAL FACILITY. I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF IT IS NECESSARY TO REMOVE AND REPLACE ALL OF THE PARTS (WIPER BLADES, BELTS AND ETC.) THAT THE DEALER RECOMMENDS :confuse:
My first Q45 (94 Q45t) is still in the family and has 213,000 miles. -
I changed the serpentine belts and radiator hoses @ 100K and 200K, but inspected both along the way. - My 2002 Q has 136,000 and I have followed the same approach.
It is my observation that the dealer follows the "one size fits all" approach and if replaces items that don't necessarily need replacing. - I also notice that many of the items are "check" vice actual maintenace/replacement.
The only items I had performed at the dealer was the 100k platinum spark pluy replacement.
Like the last post I regularly change the oil and oil filter every other change according to the Q-45 service manual. 30K maintenance consist of one extra item the coolant, then every two years or 30K. Also change the air filter at 30K.
I want to get under mine and change the rear differential fluid transmission fluid this year it has 125K on it.The platinum plugs should be changed at 60Kin my manual.
My 1990 is on a blog at my Carspace.com/rearwheeldrive
Your problem sounds like air induction. The engine is revving could be a leak somewhere in the vacuum lines . One thing I noticed when I tear mine down is all the ventilation hoses and clamps. the design is not like a traditional PCV system. The PCV is on the left rocker at the back and maybe one on the right too.
Another area to check is the two hoses going into the duct that's going from the air filter to the Intake manifold. Squeeze this duct too to see if engine starts to run wild. It could be old and have a crack or leak This is critical to the MAF like in the last post If the MAF is bad it will run in default mode. You can disconnect the electrical connector to this part, it is right at the air filter where the part of the duct is square, as it leaves the air filter.
I know its late but I hope you got the problem fixed if not I hope this helps.
Warmest regards,
Travis
I pulled the relays in the black box till it went off it was the one marked inhibit I never traced it back to see what it went to but it was not starting only just cranking . I guessed it was just low on battery charge and causing the buzz.
Inhibit relay goes to a module under the dash I think it was security or alarm module.I got my service manual here and will look it up.